Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway, New Mexico
Nestled within the rolling hills and verdant valleys of central New Mexico lies a captivating journey waiting to be discovered: the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway. Often overlooked, this enchanting road unveils a tapestry of history, breathtaking vistas, intriguing ghost towns, a sprawling National Forest, a welcoming ski resort, vibrant art galleries, unique shops, engaging museums, and a wealth of other hidden gems.
Serving as a vital link between New Mexico’s two major urban centers – Santa Fe and Albuquerque – the 65-mile Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway is affectionately regarded as the scenic "back road" connecting these vibrant cities. Its name, derived from the abundant turquoise deposits found near its northern terminus, speaks to the region’s rich geological heritage. For centuries, this trail served as a crucial pathway for Native Americans and intrepid Spanish explorers. Later, in the late 1800s, miners flocked to the area, drawn by the promise of the hills’ plentiful mineral resources. The exquisite blue-green turquoise, highly prized for its beauty, was initially mined by the early Pueblo people as far back as 900 A.D. While this undulating highway has witnessed considerable development in recent years, it has managed to retain a strong sense of the Old West, evident in its charming galleries, inviting restaurants, and informative museums.
A Journey Through Time and Landscape
The Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway offers a captivating exploration of New Mexico’s diverse history and stunning natural beauty. Beginning just east of Albuquerque, the byway winds its way through a series of distinct communities, each with its unique character and story to tell.
Tijeras: Gateway to the Cibola National Forest
The journey commences in Tijeras, a town situated approximately 16 miles east of Albuquerque. Here, visitors can find one of the Cibola National Forest’s Visitor Centers, a valuable resource offering an array of brochures and information about the surrounding area. The Cibola National Forest is a vast expanse encompassing nearly 2 million acres across three states. Tijeras also boasts the Tijeras Pueblo Ruin site, established around 1300 A.D. This ancient canyon community once housed approximately 400 Native Americans. Unfortunately, prolonged droughts forced its abandonment. Today, the 200-room pueblo stands as a grass-covered mound, a frequent site for archaeological investigations. Once a thriving community on the historic Route 66, Tijeras is also home to the world’s longest tramway, offering visitors a chance to ascend nearly three miles and witness spectacular panoramic views of the Sandia Crest Highway, the city of Albuquerque, and the expansive Cibola National Forest.
During the warmer months, from May to October, Tijeras hosts a juried arts and crafts market at 488 E Highway 66. This market showcases the work of some of New Mexico’s finest artisans, accompanied by live music and a picturesque scenic backdrop.
Cedar Crest: A Glimpse into Native American History
From Tijeras, the route continues along NM-14 through Cedar Crest. This primarily residential community is home to the Museum of Archaeology and Material Culture, which delves into the 12,000-year history of Native American presence in the region. Visitors to the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway can also discover a variety of shops and restaurants in Cedar Crest.
Sandia Park: Outdoor Adventures and Scenic Vistas
A short drive further along the byway leads to Sandia Park. Here, a wealth of outdoor activities awaits, ranging from skiing at the Sandia Peak Ski Area to hiking, horseback riding, climbing, and more. Sandia Park also marks the beginning of another Scenic Byway – the Sandia Crest Highway. This 13-mile stretch of NM 536 meanders through the Cibola National Forest, offering even more impressive scenic views. Along this highway, visitors can experience the Sandia Peak Tramway and explore the Tinkertown Museum, a whimsical world of animated miniature Old West towns, circus relics, and thousands of meticulously hand-carved figures.
Golden: A Ghost Town with a Glimmer of the Past
Continuing along the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway for approximately ten miles brings you to Golden, the first of several ghost towns along the route. Established in 1879 following the discovery of gold, Golden quickly attracted prospectors. However, the gold deposits were depleted within a decade, leading to the town’s decline. Today, ranching continues in the area, interspersed with the crumbling remains of the ghost town and traces of two pueblos dating back to 1300 A.D. The San Francisco Catholic Church, constructed in 1830, stands as one of the most photographed landmarks along the trail. This charming adobe church was lovingly restored by historian and author Fray Angelico Chavez during his time as padre of San Jose in Cerrillos in the 1960s.
While in Golden, be sure to visit the general store, which has been in operation since 1918, before continuing your journey towards Madrid.
Madrid: From Coal Mining Boom to Artistic Haven
Twelve miles further along the trail lies Madrid, a town classified as a ghost town despite having a resident population of around 300. During the summer months, Madrid thrives with activity, its shops, restaurants, and galleries catering to the many visitors who traverse this historic path.
Madrid and its neighboring community of Cerrillos have a long-standing reputation for the turquoise found in the surrounding hills. Mined by Native Americans for centuries, the turquoise later attracted the attention of the Spanish, who also explored the area in search of silver and gold. In the early 1800s, American prospectors arrived, and in the 1880s, large coal mining companies commenced operations.
At its peak, Madrid boasted a population of over 3,000 residents and produced approximately 250,000 tons of coal annually. However, the town’s prosperity was short-lived. As natural gas gained popularity as a home heating fuel, the demand for coal declined. The town of Madrid suffered a severe decline along with the coal market. In 1954, the Albuquerque and Cerrillos Coal Company ceased operations, leading to the departure of almost all of Madrid’s residents.
In the early 1970s, artists, craftspeople, and individuals seeking a mountain home began to settle in the area, giving rise to Madrid’s rebirth. Today, this unique and picturesque small town serves as a haven for day-trippers and travelers along the historic Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway, who come to browse its numerous shops, cafes, and bed and breakfast inns.
Los Cerrillos: A Turquoise Legacy
Before long, you will arrive at Los Cerrillos, renowned for its exquisite blue-green turquoise, which has been mined in the Cerrillos Hills since as early as 900 A.D. As one of the oldest historically documented mining districts in the United States, this almost "ghost town" is a must-see stop along the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway.
Beginning with Native American miners, followed by the Spanish, the area experienced a boom in the 1880s when gold, silver, and lead mines began operating. At its height, the population of Los Cerrillos exceeded 2,000, supporting four hotels, 21 saloons, and numerous other businesses. Like many other boom towns, Los Cerrillos declined when the mineral resources were exhausted. However, the town has experienced a partial revival as visitors discover this historic Old West settlement and its many attractions, including the Los Cerrillos Historic Park, adobe homes and businesses, Saint Joseph’s Church, a museum, and more.
Beyond Los Cerrillos, the trail continues to meander through the Galisteo Basin, which once supported a large Pueblo population in 1300 A.D. The area, known for its distinctive razor-back rock formations called "Garden of the Gods," is also home to the Eaves Movie Ranch, where over 100 movies have been filmed.