Twin Arrows To Winona, Arizona
Arizona’s stretch of Route 66, a ribbon of asphalt steeped in history and nostalgia, beckons travelers with tales of forgotten towns and roadside attractions. Westward from the ghost towns of Two Guns and Canyon Diablo, a journey unfolds that encompasses the forlorn beauty of the Twin Arrows Trading Post, the dramatic depths of Padre Canyon, and the unassuming charm of Winona. This route, once a vital artery for cross-country travel, offers a glimpse into a bygone era of American road trips.
Twin Arrows: A Relic of the Mother Road
For decades, strategically placed billboards enticed motorists to Exit 219, promising the unique experience of the Twin Arrows Trading Post. Today, this once-thriving establishment stands as a poignant ruin alongside Interstate 40. Concrete barriers now guard its perimeter, a stark reminder of its inaccessibility, while the relentless roar of passing semi-trucks underscores its isolation.
The precise origins of the Twin Arrows remain somewhat shrouded in mystery. It is believed to have been constructed sometime after 1946, as it was absent from Jack Rittenhouse’s comprehensive "A Guide Book to Highway 66." Initially known as the Padre Canyon Trading Post, a name derived from the nearby Padre Canyon Gorge, it seemingly garnered little attention. However, in 1955, the Troxell Family acquired the property and transformed its identity. Their vision involved erecting two towering wooden arrows, complete with meticulously crafted tips and feathered shafts, in the parking area. With this iconic landmark in place, they rechristened the establishment the Twin Arrows Trading Post. Over the years, the site expanded to include a classic Valentine Diner and a gas station distinguished by its above-ground tanks, features that are still discernible amidst the decay.
Like many businesses along Route 66, the construction of the Interstate system in the 1970s proved to be a death knell for the Twin Arrows. Despite the presence of Exit 219, specifically designated for the trading post, the business steadily declined. Reportedly, it changed ownership several times, making a final attempt to revive its fortunes with a reopening in 1995. After an estimated 60 years of operation, it ultimately closed its doors for good in 1998, and the property was relinquished to the State of Arizona.
Currently, the State of Arizona retains ownership of the land. However, the Hopi Tribe holds the title to the buildings and the celebrated arrows themselves. For years, the structures have endured the harsh conditions of the arid Arizona landscape, succumbing to the combined effects of weathering and vandalism. While the iconic arrows appear to receive some level of maintenance, the buildings, including the old Valentine Diner, gift shop, and gas station, stand as boarded-up canvases for graffiti.
The Hopi Tribe has expressed intentions to restore the site, but despite these aspirations, no visible progress has been made on the buildings. The State of Arizona has erected Jersey barriers around the perimeter to restrict access. Given the high volume of truck traffic in the immediate vicinity, caution is advised when approaching the barriers.
Adding a modern contrast to the historic site, the Twin Arrows Navajo Casino Resort operates on the north side of I-40.
Padre Canyon: A Bridge to the Past
Leaving the Twin Arrows, the oldest alignment of Route 66 once veered northwest of the modern I-40, traversing Padre Canyon. This canyon, a dramatic geological feature, sharply interrupts the otherwise flat expanse of the high desert. The 1914 Padre Canyon Bridge, predating Route 66, served as a crucial link on the old Flagstaff-Winslow highway but was also notorious for its dangers.
The bridge presented numerous challenges to early motorists. Drivers had to navigate six hazardous approach curves as they descended into the canyon before crossing the narrow bridge and ascending the opposite side. Despite the risks, it was the only viable route for countless travelers during the Depression era and for tourists seeking adventure in later years. Recognizing the growing traffic volume and the inherent dangers of the road, Route 66 was realigned in 1937 with a new bridge constructed in the same location as the current interstate. This bridge, too, was eventually replaced when I-40 was built, but remnants of its foundations can still be observed beneath the westbound lanes of I-40.
Today, the old Padre Canyon Bridge is honored with a listing on the National Register of Historic Places. Although time has taken its toll, its architecture serves as a testament to an era when Model Ts were the dominant mode of transportation. The bridge lies approximately one mile northwest of the Twin Arrows exit, yet its location deep within the canyon makes it invisible from the interstate. Situated on private property, access requires permission from the landowner. Alternatively, the bridge can be reached by approaching it from Winona via the old Forest Service Road, a journey of about eight miles on unpaved and rugged terrain. A high-clearance vehicle is highly recommended for this route.
Adding another layer of historical significance, the walls of Padre Canyon bear rock carvings that document the activities of the Native American tribes who inhabited the area.
Winona: "Don’t Forget Winona"
As Bobby Troup famously sang, "don’t forget Winona." Initially known as Walnut, the town’s story began before its official establishment in 1912. The narrative centers around Billy Adams, who was cycling from Moody, Texas, to Long Beach, California, to visit his brother in the early 1900s.
Before reaching his destination, Adams encountered a location approximately 13 miles east of Flagstaff that captivated him. He continued to Flagstaff, boarded a train back to Texas, married Myrtle, and together they returned to that "perfect spot." They established a trading post, exchanging supplies and groceries with the Navajo and Hopi Indians for blankets, jewelry, and other native crafts.
Even before the formal establishment of Route 66, Model Ts were navigating the Flagstaff-Winslow Highway in the 1920s, passing directly by the Adams’ trading post. Recognizing an opportunity, they established one of Arizona’s earliest tourist camps in 1920. Billy constructed 12 one-room cabins and offered overnight camping for those who could not afford the $1 per night cabin fee.
Billy was also a skilled barber, and after establishing the tourist camp, he traveled to Flagstaff for work while Myrtle managed the store and tourist camp. As more ranchers settled in the area, the need for a post office arose. Myrtle Adams became its first Post Mistress in 1924. To simplify mail pickup, she would hang the mail sack outside for railroad workers to collect as the train passed by. A Texaco service station was also added to the mix. The Adamses lived upstairs in the trading post throughout the 1920s before moving across the highway. There, they homesteaded land, and Billy began ranching, expanding their landholdings until they retired in the late 1960s.
Winona experienced growth as Route 66 traffic increased, eventually reaching a population of just over 100 people. However, the town’s Route 66 heyday was short-lived. In 1937, the highway was rerouted south of Winona, effectively bypassing it. The Adamses sold the store in the 1940s to a couple named the Pills, who added a garage for mechanical work. Mr. Pill’s son, Bill, later took over the operations. The business changed hands two more times and currently operates as a Shell Station.
Winona never achieved the prosperity of many other small towns along the Mother Road and was never incorporated. Its greatest claim to fame lies in its mention in Bobby Troup’s "Get Your Kicks on Route 66" song. Today, little remains of Route 66 in Winona, except for a historic bridge.