Ulysses, Kansas – Born Twice and Still Kickin!
Ulysses, Kansas, a city etched into the southwestern plains of the state, boasts a history as resilient and unique as the landscape that cradles it. Situated in Grant County, along the historic Cimarron Branch of the Santa Fe Trail, Ulysses wasn’t simply founded; it was born, thrived, faltered, and then, in an act of collective will, reborn. This fascinating narrative isn’t just about survival; it’s a testament to the enduring spirit of its people and the dramatic ebbs and flows that characterized life on the American frontier.
The story of Ulysses begins in 1885, a time when the westward expansion was in full swing, and the Santa Fe Trail served as a vital artery connecting the eastern states with the burgeoning Southwest. However, the rise of the steam engine signaled a shift, drawing settlers and entrepreneurs to the newly accessible areas of western Kansas. Grant County experienced a surge in population, with towns like Appomattox, Golden, Shockey, and Zionville springing up alongside Ulysses. Though many have vanished into the annals of history as "Extinct Towns," Ulysses persevered, a testament to its strategic location and the determination of its founders. Today, only Hickok and Ryus remain as unincorporated communities, further highlighting Ulysses’s central role in the county’s narrative.
The town’s name pays homage to General Ulysses S. Grant, a celebrated figure of the Civil War and two-term president. The initial survey of the townsite was conducted by none other than George Washington Earp, a first cousin of the legendary Wyatt Earp of Dodge City and Tombstone fame. Earp wasn’t just a surveyor; he was a businessman, a promoter of the town, and, true to his family’s reputation, its first peace officer, known for his willingness to maintain order with a firm hand.
By 1886, Ulysses was a burgeoning settlement, boasting a population of nearly 1,500. The town’s infrastructure reflected its aspirations, featuring an opera house, a large hotel, various businesses, and, despite Kansas’s reputation as a "dry" state, a lively collection of six saloons. Just two years later, the population swelled to 2,000, supported by two additional hotels and a thriving culinary scene with twelve restaurants. This period marked a golden age for Ulysses, Kansas, a time of rapid growth and boundless optimism.
The establishment of Grant County in 1887 set the stage for a fierce rivalry. Ulysses and Tilden (later known as Appomattox) emerged as the primary contenders for the coveted title of county seat. In June 1888, Ulysses was initially designated as the temporary county seat, and county officers were appointed. However, the matter was far from settled. An election was scheduled for October 16, 1888, to determine the permanent location of the county seat, sparking a heated and often contentious battle between the two towns.
The county seat war between Ulysses and Appomattox was a defining moment in the town’s early history. Constable George Earp, responsible for maintaining law and order, later recounted how the Ulysses Town Company hired several notorious gunmen to ensure the integrity of the ballot. Among these figures were legendary figures like Bat Masterson, Luke Short, Ed Dlathe, Jim Drury, Bill Wells, and Ed Short. These men, armed with Winchesters and six-shooters, formed a lumber barricade across from the polling place to deter any attempts to steal or manipulate the ballot box. Despite the tension, no violence occurred, and Ulysses emerged victorious in the election.
However, the victory was short-lived. Accusations of corruption and vote-buying surfaced, ultimately leading the dispute to the Kansas Supreme Court. Alvin Campbell, a Tilden supporter, presented evidence alleging that the Ulysses city council had illicitly used $36,000 in bonds to purchase 388 votes. It became public knowledge that "professional voters" were brought in, housed for the required 30 days before the election, and paid $10 each for their votes. Furthermore, it was alleged that "professional toughs" were hired to intimidate Tilden voters, casting a dark shadow over the election process.
The revelation that public funds were used for vote-buying ignited outrage among the citizens of Grant County. The citizens of Ulysses retaliated against Alvin Campbell, the man who exposed their scheme, by tarring him in August 1889. Although evidence of similar practices in Tilden was also presented, Ulysses ultimately retained its county seat status, but at a steep price. The town incurred a staggering $36,000 in expenses related to the county seat fight, in addition to $13,000 in bonds for a schoolhouse and $8,000 for a courthouse. The fight for the county seat left Ulysses, Kansas deeply in debt.
By 1909, the weight of this financial burden had become unbearable. Unable to overcome the crippling debt and facing foreclosure, the community made an extraordinary decision: to move the entire town. In a remarkable feat of engineering and community spirit, every building in Ulysses was loaded onto skids and transported three miles across the prairie to its present-day location. The lots in the old town were deeded back to the East Coast bondholders, leaving only a masonry schoolhouse standing as a silent reminder of the original settlement. This relocation marked a new chapter in the town’s history, a literal rebirth on the Kansas prairie.
The troubles for Ulysses, Kansas were not over. In 1898, severe crop failures devastated the region, triggering widespread panic and a drastic population decline. Ulysses dwindled from 1,500 residents to a mere 400, and eventually, only 40 souls remained. Buildings were abandoned, banks closed, and merchants allowed their stocks to dwindle, painting a bleak picture of the town’s future.
The "new" town was initially called "New Ulysses," with the original site becoming known as "Old Ulysses." The Hotel Edwards, a prominent landmark in Old Ulysses, had to be dismantled into three sections for the move. Today, it stands as the only surviving business building from the old town, meticulously restored to its original appearance on the grounds of the Grant County Museum. "Old Ulysses" was located approximately three miles east of the current Ulysses, along U.S. Highway 160, on what is now private property.
The discovery of natural gas in the 1920s breathed new life into Ulysses, Kansas. The Hugoton natural gas field, spanning over 4,800 square miles, transformed the region into "The Gas Capital of the United States," ushering in an era of unprecedented prosperity. This economic boom revitalized Ulysses and solidified its position as a regional center.
In 1921, the town officially dropped the "New" from its name, becoming simply Ulysses once again. The town had become a place of new opportunity.
Today, Ulysses stands as a testament to the resilience and adaptability of the human spirit. A portion of the Ulysses high school grounds now occupies the site of the former town of Appomattox, a reminder of the county seat war. The restored Hotel Edwards stands proudly on the Grant County Museum grounds, offering visitors a glimpse into the town’s rich history. Nearby, Wagon Bed Spring, a significant landmark on the Santa Fe Trail, further enriches the area’s historical significance.
The vast plains surrounding Ulysses offer breathtaking sunrises and sunsets, painting the sky with vibrant colors. The area is also renowned for its excellent deer and pheasant hunting, attracting outdoor enthusiasts from across the region.
The Cimarron Cutoff of the Santa Fe Trail, a perilous but shorter route, passed just east of present-day Ulysses, turning south and crossing the path of U.S. Highway 160, following the Cimarron River. Wagon Bed Spring, located ten miles south of Ulysses, was a vital watering spot along the trail. The Cimarron Cutoff, known as "La Jornada," presented significant challenges, including dry creek beds and the threat of Indian attacks, but offered travelers a significant time savings compared to the "safer" route through Colorado. Jedediah Smith, a renowned Western explorer and fur trader, tragically lost his life to Comanche Indians near the river after enduring four days without water.
While no military post was ever established at Wagon Bed Spring, it served as a crucial rest stop for soldiers from the start of the Mexican-American War in 1846 until the railroads replaced the wagon road. 1864 marked a particularly violent year for Indian attacks along the Santa Fe Trail, with 15 men killed at Wagon Bed Spring in a two-week period. General James H. Carleton dispatched 100 men to Wagon Bed Spring with rations for sixty days to protect travelers. Today, the site continues to yield artifacts, including lead balls, empty cartridges, and arrowheads, for "treasure" hunters.
In 1961, Wagon Bed Spring was designated a National Historic Landmark, recognizing its importance in American history. Sadly, the spring itself has long since dried up due to irrigation practices in western Kansas. Ulysses is located in Grant County in southwest Kansas, a place where history and perseverance intertwine.
