Watrous, New Mexico – River Junction on the Santa Fe Trail
Nestled within a picturesque valley in northeastern New Mexico, where the Sapello and Mora Rivers converge, lies the unassuming town of Watrous. This tranquil locale, now a National Historic Landmark District, possesses a rich and storied past, serving as a significant crossroads for indigenous peoples, Spanish explorers, Mexican settlers, and American traders along the famed Santa Fe Trail. Its history is etched into the very landscape, with visible trail ruts and the enduring architecture of a bygone era whispering tales of trade, cultural exchange, and the relentless march of progress.
The story of Watrous, New Mexico, begins long before the arrival of European settlers. For centuries, the valley served as a vital meeting point for various Plains tribes, including the Comanche, Kiowa, Apache, and Ute. They gathered at "La Junta de los Rios Mora y Sapello" – "The Juncture of the Mora and Sapello Rivers" – a natural oasis characterized by lush cottonwood groves, abundant grasses, and the life-giving waters of the two rivers. Here, they engaged in trade with the Puebloan peoples, exchanging goods and forging relationships that shaped the region’s early dynamics. The site’s strategic location and resources also attracted sheepherders from nearby settlements like Las Vegas and Mora, as well as Comancheros, Native Americans, and Spanish/Mexican settlers, all seeking sustenance and connection.
The Spanish colonial era brought significant changes to the region, including a ban on international trade. However, the winds of change swept through in 1821 when Mexico gained its independence from Spain and promptly lifted these restrictions. This opened the floodgates for commerce with the neighboring United States, whose traders recognized the vast potential of the western territories. The Santa Fe Trail, inaugurated in 1821, became the primary artery for this burgeoning trade, giving rise to numerous small towns and trading posts along its route, including the precursor to Watrous, New Mexico.
Around 1835, an Englishman named James Boney, also known as Santiago Bone, along with others, established a settlement in the area after receiving a land grant from the Mexican government. This early iteration of the town, also called La Junta, served as Boney’s home until the early 1840s when he tragically fell victim to an Indian attack. His family abandoned the valley by 1846, leaving no trace of this initial settlement.
The valley’s strategic importance was further solidified in 1843 when John Scolly received a Mexican land grant and continued to foster the small settlement. While initially described as architecturally simple, with humble adobe houses, La Junta’s location at the confluence of the Mountain and Cimarron Cutoff routes of the Santa Fe Trail ensured its continued growth and significance. By 1846, it was a well-established stopover for travelers and traders.
That same year, the Army of the West, under the command of General Stephen Kearny, camped in the valley near the Sapello Crossing. Adjutant General William H. Emory famously described it as "the first settlement we had seen in 775 miles." While the soldiers were not particularly impressed by the town’s appearance, they eagerly welcomed the fresh cheese, milk, produce, and even whiskey, a welcome respite from the monotonous rations of the trail. This highlights how vital Watrous, New Mexico, became for travelers along the Santa Fe Trail.
The small farming community rapidly transformed into a crucial rest stop for travelers venturing east into the arid plains or west towards Santa Fe. The fertile valley nurtured the development of thriving ranches, stagecoach stations, a Jesuit Mission, and support structures for nearby Fort Union. The area became a melting pot of cultures, facilitating interaction between American Indians, Mexicans, and American travelers.
In 1848, traders Alexander Barclay and George S. Simpson recognized the valley’s potential and sought to capitalize on its strategic location. Inspired by the prospect of a U.S. government fort being built in the area to protect Santa Fe Trail travelers, they envisioned building their own fort and selling it to the government for profit. They also saw the opportunity to establish a mercantile for trade, given the junction of the Cimarron Cutoff and the Mountain Branch of the trail. Barclay promptly purchased a portion of the original Scolly Grant, setting the stage for the establishment of Barclay’s Fort.
On April 23, 1848, a large caravan departed from Pueblo, Colorado, bound for La Junta. The wagons, laden with household goods, food, and supplies, made slow progress, arriving at the foot of Raton Pass on May 1. After leaving the women and children in Mora, the men reached the La Junta Valley and immediately began constructing what would become known as "Barclay’s Fort."
Under the supervision of Charles Autobees, the construction of the adobe fort progressed rapidly. Irrigation ditches were dug to water the surrounding land, and by September, the fort was sufficiently complete for Barclay to bring his wife to her new home. The large, square enclosure, with its high adobe walls and secure gate, served as a camping place for pioneers and wagon trains, offering protection from Indian raids. Barclay’s Fort quickly became a popular and bustling stopping point along the Santa Fe Trail, facilitating trade, providing lodging, and offering shelter for both people and animals. This was also an important event in the history of Watrous, New Mexico.
A few years later, New Mexico’s attorney general, W. W. H. Davis, described the post as: "It is a large adobe establishment and, like the immense caravansaries of the East, serves as an abode for men and animals. It presents a rather formidable and neat appearance from the outside, pierced with loopholes and ornamented with battlements. The rooms within were damp and uncomfortable, and all the surroundings looked so gloomy, the hour being twilight, that it reminded me of some old state prison where the good and great of former times have languished away their lives."
Around the same time, Samuel B. Watrous and his family arrived in La Junta. After acquiring a one-seventh interest in the Scolly Mexican land grant, he built a sprawling ranch house and store at the confluence of the Mora and Sapello Rivers. The "fort-like" adobe structure, encompassing 20 rooms around a large interior patio, became the center of Watrous’s burgeoning enterprise. He amassed large herds of cattle and extensive grazing lands, selling and trading his ranch’s produce with residents, Santa Fe Trail travelers, and, later, troops stationed at nearby Fort Union.
William B. Tipton, a veteran of General Stephen Kearny’s army, joined Watrous to help claim and settle his portion of the Scolly Grant. Tipton and his brother, Enoch, established Tiptonville on the Mora River, a few miles northwest of La Junta. William Tipton married Watrous’s daughter, Mary, in 1849 and became a partner in the firm of Watrous and Tipton, which operated 20 freight wagons hauling merchandise between Missouri and New Mexico.
As more settlers poured into the area, tensions between the newcomers and the indigenous tribes escalated. The increased traffic on the Santa Fe Trail and the diminishing game resources led to conflicts with the Moache Ute, Jicarilla Apache, Kiowa, and Comanche. In response, troops were dispatched to protect the settlers. In 1850, Alexander Barclay attempted to sell his fort to the Army, but his offer was declined. Instead, Lieutenant Colonel Edwin V. Sumner tried to force Barclay off his land to build a new fort.
Colonel Sumner’s arrival marked a turning point. He disbanded the existing temporary military encampments, relocating the troops to posts closer to the Indian populations. In 1851, he established Fort Union about nine miles northwest of Watrous, New Mexico, on the Santa Fe Trail Mountain Branch. This led to further conflict with Barclay, who contested the Army’s attempts to seize his land in court.
Fort Union became a vital supply depot for other forts in the region, relying on local ranchers and farmers like Samuel Watrous for provisions. The convergence of numerous military trails at La Junta ensured a steady stream of travelers and freighters passing by the Watrous Store, contributing significantly to its prosperity.
In 1853, Alexander Barclay suffered financial losses during a trading expedition with the Indians. Upon his return, he found his fort in disrepair and its operations out of control. By October, he was living alone in the fort, unsuccessfully attempting to sell it. The post office closed in 1854, and Barclay died in December 1855, buried at his fort. Litigation with the army continued with Joseph Doyle, who ultimately prevailed and sold the land and fort to William Kronig in 1856. Kroenig established the Phoenix Ranch west of Watrous’s, further contributing to the area’s agricultural development.
By the 1850s, the California Gold Rush fueled a surge in traffic along the Santa Fe Trail, benefiting the Watrous store. New settlers, including William Shoemaker, the ordnance officer at Fort Union, made La Junta their home. Descendants of James Boney returned to the valley in the 1860s, resettling in the West Tiptonville area.
In 1862, William Tipton acquired an interest in the Scolly Grant and built a large ranch house on the Mountain Branch north of Barclay’s Fort. He supplied beef to Fort Union. In 1870, Tipton laid out the village of Tiptonville, which became a gathering place for caravans. Today, the area still bears the visible scars of the Santa Fe Trail, with deep trail ruts and arroyos.
The Boney family donated land for the construction of the Sagrado Corazon Mission in 1870, serving a wide parish. William Kronig built the Phoenix Ranch House in 1865, a fine example of Territorial Style architecture.
The westward expansion of the railroad system in the late 1860s and early 1870s gradually diminished the importance of the Santa Fe Trail. In 1879, the Watrous family donated land for the railroad right of way, stations, and yards. The Santa Fe Railroad chief engineer laid out a new town east of La Junta to serve the railroad. This new town was named Watrous, in honor of Samuel B. Watrous, shifting the valley’s economic center away from the original trading town of La Junta.
Samuel Watrous died in 1886 under mysterious circumstances. His death continues to be a topic of discussion.
The village of Watrous continued to prosper after the death of its namesake. By 1900, Watrous had grown to include general stores, churches, a hotel, a school, a post office, and various other businesses.
However, Watrous, New Mexico’s, prosperity was not to last. A devastating fire in 1910 destroyed much of the town, and it was never fully rebuilt. Although the railroad continued to make stops until 1953, Watrous’s importance as a shipping point declined.
Today, Watrous is a small town with a population of around 135 people, designated as a National Historic Landmark District. The district encompasses the Santa Fe Trail routes and buildings associated with the community’s active use from 1835 to 1879. Despite the passage of time, much of La Junta’s original character remains, from its rustic architecture to the natural beauty of the surrounding rangeland.
Visitors to Watrous can still see sophisticated buildings like the Gregg Tavern-Stage Station and the Fort Union Corral Buildings. The Phoenix Ranch House stands as one of the finest Territorial period residences in New Mexico. The Watrous Valley Ranch and House, meticulously restored, continues to preserve the legacy of Samuel Watrous.
Located just off I-25, Watrous offers a glimpse into the rich history of the Santa Fe Trail and the diverse cultures that shaped this unique corner of New Mexico. It stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West and a reminder of the importance of preserving our shared heritage.