White Oaks – The Liveliest Town in the Territory
Nestled in the arid landscape of southeastern New Mexico, the story of White Oaks is a vibrant tapestry woven with threads of Native American heritage, Spanish exploration, and the frenetic energy of a gold rush boomtown. Before the clang of pickaxes and the boisterous laughter of saloons echoed through its streets, this land held a different kind of life, a quieter rhythm dictated by the seasons and the movement of wildlife.
The history of the region predates the arrival of European settlers by centuries. The Piros Indians were the initial inhabitants, skillfully adapting to the challenging environment. They were hunters and gatherers, understanding the delicate balance of the ecosystem. They thrived until the arrival of the Apache tribes, known for their fierce warrior culture, forced the Piros to abandon their settlements. The Apache, recognizing the value of the land as a hunting ground rich in game, established it as part of their territory, leaving their own indelible mark on the landscape.
The late 16th century saw the arrival of the first Europeans, members of Don Juan de Oñate’s expedition. These Spanish explorers, traversing the harsh terrain, gave it the name "Malpais," a term that translates loosely to "badlands." This name reflected their initial impression of the area, a landscape seemingly inhospitable and unforgiving. For centuries, the region remained sparsely populated, a testament to the challenges it presented to settlement.
The destiny of this quiet territory took a dramatic turn with the discovery of gold in the nearby Jicarilla Mountains. The initial discovery is attributed to John Wilson, a man shrouded in mystery, rumored to be an escapee from a Texas prison. Apparently, Wilson wasn’t interested in gold mining, but he shared his secret with Jack Winters and Harry Baxter. Their excitement ignited the spark that would transform the area forever.
News of the gold strike spread rapidly, drawing prospectors and fortune-seekers from far and wide. Within a year, a bustling mining camp sprung up, initially composed of tents and hastily constructed shacks. The camp was christened White Oaks, a name derived from a small stream fringed with distinctive white oak trees that provided a welcome splash of green in the arid landscape. In 1880, the establishment of a post office marked a turning point, signaling a move towards permanence. Solid buildings began to replace the temporary structures, and the boomtown flourished. At its peak, White Oaks boasted an impressive array of businesses, including four newspapers, two hotels, three churches, a sawmill, a bank, an opera house, livery stables, and, of course, a generous number of saloons and gambling houses – the hallmarks of any self-respecting Western boomtown.
Winters and Baxter, the beneficiaries of Wilson’s discovery, capitalized on their good fortune by establishing two lucrative claims: the Homestake Mine and the South Homestake Mine. In recognition of Baxter’s work, the mountain where the gold was found was named Baxter Mountain. Demonstrating the potential wealth to be made during the gold rush, the two miners eventually sold their claims for a staggering $300,000 each – a considerable fortune at the time.
Like any booming mining camp, White Oaks was steeped in legend and lore. One of the most colorful characters was a woman known as Belle La Mar, but more famously referred to as "Madam Varnish." Hailing from Missouri, she arrived in the New Mexico mining camp at a time when women were a rare and highly sought-after sight. She established the Little Casino Saloon, where she expertly dealt faro, roulette, and poker. Quickly relieving the miners of their hard-earned gold, she earned her nickname "Madam Varnish" because, as the miners said, she was as "slick as varnish." The Little Casino became the reigning saloon in town. Other popular establishments included the Star Saloon and Opera House, offering entertainment and respite to the weary miners.
The infamous outlaw Billy the Kid also frequented White Oaks during its early, wild days. Although his primary stomping grounds were in Lincoln, approximately 40 miles east, the Kid was known to associate with other roughnecks in the thriving mining camp, drawn to the lure of saloons, gambling parlors, and the company of prostitutes.
Following the tumultuous Lincoln County War, Billy and his gang of "Rustlers" often targeted cattle in the vicinity of White Oaks. On one occasion, after an attempted theft, the citizens of White Oaks, incensed by the outlaws’ audacity, formed a posse and pursued the gang. Although a gunfight ensued, the thieves managed to escape.
Despite the clear message that the citizens of White Oaks would not tolerate the presence of Billy the Kid and his cohorts, three of the outlaws, including Billy the Kid himself, Dave Rudabaugh, and Billy Wilson, brazenly returned to White Oaks the very next evening. In a display of reckless bravado, Rudabaugh took a shot at Deputy Sheriff James Redman, seemingly just for amusement.
Fortunately, the shot missed its mark, and Redman sought cover. He was soon joined by a crowd of over 30 men, determined to rid the town of the outlaws. The posse then tracked the rustlers to a ranch about 40 miles away, where another gunfight erupted, resulting in the tragic death of an innocent man. Once again, the outlaws escaped, and a reward was soon placed on Billy the Kid’s head.
The burgeoning settlement’s rapid growth necessitated the establishment of a stage line, connecting White Oaks to Fort Stanton, San Antonio, Roswell, and other destinations. This improved transportation infrastructure facilitated trade and communication, further contributing to the town’s development.
By 1885, the more undesirable elements had largely departed White Oaks, and the town transitioned into a community of law-abiding citizens. However, tragedy struck in July 1891 when a fire erupted at the South Homestake Mine, claiming the lives of two miners. Despite this setback, mining operations continued, and the Homestake mines prospered for the next five years.
By 1890, the population of White Oaks had swelled to over 2,000 residents. However, around the same time, the Homestake Mines began to show signs of depletion. Fortunately, White Oaks experienced a resurgence when another mine, known as the "Old Abe," was developed. This mine proved to be immensely profitable and employed a large workforce, revitalizing the town’s economy. The population soon reached its peak of approximately 2,500 people.
In 1893, Watt Hoyle, one of the owners of the Old Abe Mine, commissioned the construction of a two-story Victorian brick home for his fiancée. However, when she informed him that she would not be joining him in White Oaks, the mansion, with its stately gables and sharply-pitched roof, became known as "Hoyle’s folly." Contrary to popular legend, Hoyle did not leap to his death out of heartbreak. He lived in the house with his older brother and his wife. Hoyle reportedly sold the home in the 1890s and relocated to Denver.
In March 1895, tragedy struck again when a fire in the Old Abe Mine claimed the lives of eight men. Nevertheless, the mine continued to operate until shortly after the turn of the century when the deposits became less profitable. When the mine developed structural problems with the timbers in the shaft, it was finally shut down.
Of the numerous mining operations in the area, the Old Abe Mine was the largest, employing approximately 40 workers and yielding between forty-five and fifty tons of gold ore per day. Other notable operations included the Robert E. Lee, the Smuggler, the Rita, Lady Godiva, Little Mack, Silver Cliff, and Miners Cabin. In total, the mines of White Oaks yielded an estimated $20 million worth of gold and other minerals.
With its precious mineral resources dwindling and the railroad bypassing the settlement in favor of nearby Carrizozo, the town of White Oaks experienced a dramatic decline. By 1910, the population had plummeted to approximately 200 residents. Despite its diminished size, the town continued to function as a small trading center until the 1950s.
Today, White Oaks is home to only a handful of remaining residents. However, many of its historic buildings still stand, including Brown’s Store, the Hoyle House, the 1895 brick schoolhouse, and numerous old residences. Several buildings were undergoing renovation, a sign of renewed interest in the town’s rich history.
White Oaks is located 12 miles northeast of Carrizozo, New Mexico. A nearby unpaved forest road leads northwest, offering visitors a scenic route to the ghost towns of Jicarilla and Ancho. While unpaved, the road is generally well-maintained and accessible to most vehicles.