Whitman Massacre National Historic Site, Washington
Nestled in the rolling hills of southeastern Washington, near the city of Walla Walla, lies a site of profound historical significance and enduring controversy: the Whitman Massacre National Historic Site. This somber location preserves the remnants of the Waiilatpu Mission, established in 1836 by Dr. Marcus and Narcissa Whitman, and serves as a poignant reminder of the complex and often tragic interactions between American missionaries, emigrants, and the indigenous Cayuse people during the westward expansion of the United States. The site offers a compelling, if unsettling, glimpse into a pivotal period in American history, prompting reflection on themes of cultural exchange, religious zeal, territorial ambition, and the devastating consequences of misunderstanding and mistrust.
The Whitman Massacre National Historic Site stands as a testament to a bygone era, inviting visitors to explore the physical landscape and grapple with the multifaceted narrative of the Whitman Mission. It’s a place where the echoes of the past resonate, prompting contemplation on the enduring legacies of settlement, conflict, and cultural encounter in the American West.
A Mission Forged in Faith and Frontier Ambition
The story of the Whitman Massacre National Historic Site begins in the early 19th century, fueled by accounts from explorers and traders that ignited the interest of various missionary organizations. The American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, an interdenominational organization, felt compelled to explore establishing a presence in the Oregon Country. The catalyst for action came in 1835, spurred by reports of a delegation of Nez Percé and Flathead Indians traveling to St. Louis, Missouri, seeking knowledge of the white man’s religion. This prompted the Board to dispatch Reverend Samuel Parker and Dr. Marcus Whitman westward to assess the viability of establishing missions.
Whitman and Parker joined a fur caravan destined for the fur traders’ rendezvous along Wyoming’s Green River. Their interactions with the Flathead and Nez Percé solidified their determination to undertake missionary work in the Northwest. Parker continued onward to Oregon, spending the winter at the Hudson’s Bay Company’s Fort Vancouver and scouting potential mission locations before returning east by ship. Whitman, equally convinced of the mission’s importance, immediately began recruiting fellow missionaries.
Pioneering Spirits: The Whitman Party and the Journey West
In April 1836, Marcus Whitman led a small but determined party from Liberty, Missouri, embarking on an arduous journey that would forever alter the landscape of the Oregon Country. The group included his new wife, Narcissa, Reverend Henry H. Spalding, his wife, Eliza, and William H. Gray, a mechanic and carpenter. Along the way, near the Platte River and the Loup Fork junction in Nebraska, they joined an American Fur Company caravan. Their journey took them past landmarks like Fort Laramie in Wyoming and across the formidable South Pass, eventually reaching the Green River Rendezvous in July. Under the guidance of two Hudson’s Bay Company traders, the party continued their westward trek, arriving at Fort Vancouver in September. Notably, Narcissa Whitman and Eliza Spalding became the first American women to traverse the continent, marking a significant milestone in the history of westward expansion.
Waiilatpu: A Place of Rye Grass and Rising Tensions
Following their arrival at Fort Vancouver, the men ventured up the Columbia River to select suitable mission sites. Whitman chose a location in southeastern Washington, situated on Mill Creek along the north bank of the Walla Walla River, approximately 22 miles upstream from its confluence with the Columbia River and the Hudson’s Bay Company’s Fort Walla Walla. The local Cayuse Indians referred to this place as Waiilatpu, meaning "Place of the Rye Grass." Spalding established his mission, known as the Spalding Mission, 110 miles further east among the Nez Percé Indians in present-day Idaho.
In March 1837, Narcissa Whitman gave birth to a daughter, Alice Clarissa, the first American child born in the Pacific Northwest. Tragically, Alice Clarissa drowned in an accident two years later, casting a shadow over the early years of the mission.
Expansion and Internal Strife
The year 1838 brought reinforcements to the missionary effort, including Reverend Elkanah Walker, Reverend Cushing Eells, and their wives. In 1839, the Walker and Eells established the Tshimakain Mission approximately 135 miles to the north. Also in 1839, Reverend Asa B. Smith established the Kamiah Mission among the Nez Percé, located about 50 miles up the Clearwater River from the Spalding Mission. However, Smith’s tenure was short-lived, as he abandoned the mission after just two years due to disillusionment and his wife’s ill health.
Meanwhile, construction progressed at the Whitman Mission, which served as the informal headquarters for the missionary field. The mission complex eventually included a large adobe mission house, a residence for William Gray, a shelter for emigrants, a gristmill, a blacksmith shop, and a sawmill located 22 miles away. Despite Whitman’s tireless efforts, converting and educating the Cayuse proved challenging. They resisted his attempts to persuade them to adopt agriculture, preferring their traditional nomadic lifestyle.
Furthermore, cultural misunderstandings plagued relations between the missionaries and the Indians. The missionaries struggled to grasp Cayuse customs, and their own practices were often misinterpreted. Internal conflicts also arose among the missionaries at the various mission stations, leading to frequent disputes. These internal squabbles and budgetary concerns prompted the American Board to order the closure of the Whitman and Spalding Missions in 1842. The Board instructed the Spaldings to return east and directed the Whitmans to relocate to the Tshimakain Mission. Defying these orders, Whitman embarked on a perilous winter journey to Boston in 1842-43 to plead his case before the Board. His arguments ultimately swayed the Board, leading them to rescind their original decision.
The Oregon Trail and the Tide of Emigration
On his return journey to Independence, Missouri, in May 1843, Whitman encountered a massive wagon train of approximately 1,000 emigrants, the largest to date on the Oregon Trail. As the expedition’s physician and part-time guide, he accompanied them to his mission. The emigrants found respite and replenished their supplies at Waiilatpu, as had another expedition the previous year. From that point forward, Waiilatpu became a crucial way station along the Oregon Trail. Even after the main trail shifted, sick and impoverished emigrants continued to seek aid at the mission, where they received compassionate care.
Deteriorating Relations and the Seeds of Tragedy
After Whitman’s return to Waiilatpu in 1843, the relationships among the missionaries improved to some extent. However, the relations between the Indians and the missionaries deteriorated further. The growing number of emigrants alarmed the Cayuse, who were aware of the displacement of indigenous peoples in other regions and feared a similar fate. The emigrants also brought with them diseases to which the Cayuse had no immunity, most notably measles, which ravaged their communities. Whitman, increasingly focused on caring for the emigrants, devoted less time to the Cayuse. As a result, the Cayuse lost faith in the missionaries. Their growing resentment reached a boiling point in the autumn of 1847 when a measles epidemic, originating from the wagon trains, swept through their villages, killing approximately half of their population within two months. Unable to stem the epidemic, some Cayuse began to suspect that Whitman was deliberately poisoning them to pave the way for settlers.
The Massacre and Its Aftermath
On November 29, 1847, a small group of Cayuse Indians attacked the mission, which was sheltering 74 people, mostly emigrants. The attackers killed 13 people, including Marcus and Narcissa Whitman. A few survivors managed to escape, but 49 people, primarily women and children, were taken captive. Two young girls died in captivity. Peter Skene Ogden, a Hudson’s Bay Company official, secured the release of the remaining captives the following month. The Whitman Massacre National Historic Site stands as a reminder of this tragic day.
The massacre ignited the Cayuse War (1848-1855), effectively ending Protestant missionary efforts in the Oregon Country for a time. In 1848, emissaries from Oregon’s provisional legislature carried news of the tragedy and petitions for territorial status to Washington, D.C. Congress responded by creating the Oregon Territory, the first territory west of the Rockies.
The Oregon Militia retaliated in what became known as the Cayuse War, resulting in several battles over the ensuing years. In March 1850, the Cayuse were persuaded to surrender five men: Tiloukaikt, Tomahas, Klokamas, Isaiachalkis, and Kimasumpkin. The U.S. Cavalry transported the five accused murderers 250 miles from their homelands to Oregon City, the capital of the Oregon Territory. Court proceedings commenced on May 21, 1850, with interpreters and lawyers provided for the Cayuse men. They pleaded not guilty. The trial concluded the following day, May 23. After deliberating for 75 minutes, the jury found all five men guilty and sentenced them to hang. The execution was carried out on June 3, 1850, before a large crowd in Oregon City. The men were buried in unmarked graves on the outskirts of the city.
Preserving the Past: The Whitman Massacre National Historic Site Today
Today, the Whitman Massacre National Historic Site preserves the foundation ruins of the mission buildings, the restored irrigation ditch, millpond, and orchard. The "Great Grave" holds the remains of the 1847 massacre victims. A marble slab, placed over the grave in 1897 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the massacre, bears the names of the deceased. A 27-foot-high memorial shaft, dedicated in 1897, stands on a nearby hill. The visitor center features artifacts unearthed by archeologists and provides interpretive exhibits detailing the history of the mission and missionary endeavors in the Oregon Country.
The mission is located approximately seven miles west of Walla Walla, Washington, accessible via a short connecting road south from U.S. 12. Visitors to the Whitman Massacre National Historic Site can walk the grounds, explore the exhibits, and contemplate the complex legacy of this pivotal chapter in American history. It serves as a place for reflection, remembrance, and a deeper understanding of the intersection of cultures and the consequences of conflict on the American frontier.