Ghost Towns in Indian Country of New Mexico
Along the ancient paths that crisscross the landscapes of New Mexico, a unique blend of history and culture unfolds. This is especially true along the stretches of the famed Route 66, where remnants of once-thriving communities stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era. As the Mother Road winds its way through the heart of Indian Country, it unveils a series of ghost towns, each with its own story etched into the very stones of its crumbling buildings. These are not merely abandoned settlements; they are echoes of a time when Native American traditions intertwined with the burgeoning automotive culture, leaving behind a hauntingly beautiful tapestry of ruins and memories. This article explores some of these fascinating ghost towns nestled within the Indian Country of New Mexico, offering a glimpse into their past and the reasons for their eventual decline.
From the vicinity of Laguna Pueblo, Route 66 stretches westward, cutting through the heart of Native American lands. Here, the discerning traveler will encounter a series of ghost towns that predate and postdate Route 66, remnants of settlements and businesses that thrived and faltered along the road to Grants, New Mexico. These decaying structures, often crafted from the very earth upon which they stand, blend seamlessly into the natural landscape. Keen observation and a ready camera are essential for capturing the essence of these forgotten places. The landscape is dotted with the foundations and remnants of buildings, each whispering tales of a life lived in a different era.
Budville: A Trading Post Marked by Tragedy
A few miles west of Paraje, travelers along Route 66 will find Budville, a once-bustling trading center with a dark history. Named after H.N. "Bud" Rice, who, along with his wife Flossie, established an automobile service in 1928, Budville quickly evolved into a vital hub. The Budville Trading Company soon followed, offering gas, cabins, and even serving as the only tow company between the Rio Puerco River and Grants for many years. The trading post sold bus tickets and operated a post office, further solidifying its role in the community. Bud himself held the position of Justice of the Peace, a role he seemingly wielded with a heavy hand, especially toward outsiders.
The prosperity of Budville was tragically interrupted in November 1967. A desperate gunman held up the store, shattering the peaceful facade. The ensuing violence left Bud Rice and an elderly part-time shopkeeper, Blanche Brown, dead, while Flossie and a housekeeper survived. The trading post was quickly given a new, somber nickname: "Bloodville." Despite arrests, no one was ever convicted of the crime, leaving a stain of unanswered questions on the town’s legacy.
Flossie, undeterred, continued to manage the family businesses, remarrying a man named Max Atkinson. However, tragedy struck again six years later when Atkinson was killed in a fight in 1973, near the same spot where Bud had met his end. Once again, Flossie demonstrated remarkable resilience, running the business until 1979 when it finally closed its doors after 66 years of operation. Flossie passed away from natural causes in 1994, after marrying for a third time. Despite talk of reopening the Budville Trading Company after its sale, the plans never materialized.
Across the street from the defunct Budville Trading Company stands the closed Dixie Bar, established in 1936. A short distance down the road is the old King’s Café and Bar, with its still-visible vintage signage. The café now operates under the name "Midway," offering travelers a place to enjoy a hot meal and a cold drink along this desolate stretch of highway. The ghost town of Budville serves as a stark reminder of the unpredictable nature of life along Route 66.
Cubero: Bypassed and Reborn
Located just a short detour from Budville, off Highway 124, lies the village of Cubero, a community with roots stretching back centuries. Originally the site of a pre-Spanish Colonial-era pueblo, Cubero’s earliest documented history dates back to 1776. In its early years, it served as a garrison town for the Spanish.
In 1833, the Mexican government granted land to a group of people to establish a colony there. A mission was established in 1866, and Our Lady of Light Catholic Church was built. Constructed with massive, 40-inch thick adobe walls, the church served as a refuge against Apache and Navajo raids. An abandoned cannon once stood on the church grounds, a relic of those turbulent times. Sadly, flash floods weakened the church walls, prompting the construction of a new church, dedicated in 1975.
The early 1920s brought a surge of tourist traffic to Cubero as travelers traversed the Southwest along the National Old Trails Highway. Trading posts and businesses sprung up to cater to these new visitors. Wallace and Mary Gunn were among those who capitalized on this opportunity, operating a trading post that provided locals with essential goods in exchange for livestock, pottery, and Indian art. These crafts were then sold to the tourists passing through.
However, Cubero’s fortunes changed dramatically in 1937 when Route 66 was realigned, bypassing the village and creating a direct route from Budville to San Fidel. This single decision threatened to turn Cubero into a ghost town.
Undeterred, Wallace and Mary Gunn relocated their business to the new alignment. Their new establishment, the Villa De Cubero Trading Post, grew to include a service station, café, and a small tourist court. The Villa De Cubero became a popular destination, attracting celebrities such as Dezi and Lucy Arnez, Vivian Vance, and the Von Trapp family. It is even rumored that Ernest Hemingway resided in the tourist court for two weeks while working on The Old Man and the Sea. Mary Gunn ran the café across the street from the trading post from 1941 to 1972.
Today, while the café and tourist courts are closed, the Villa De Cubero Trading Post continues to operate, providing a convenience store and gas station to Route 66 travelers, proving that even a bypassed town can find a way to survive.
San Fidel: A Community Holding On
Continuing along Route 66 from Villa Cubero, travelers will encounter the small Hispanic community of San Fidel. Unlike some of its neighbors, San Fidel is not a complete ghost town, although it bears the marks of a fading past. Founded in 1868 by Baltazar Jaramillo and his family, San Fidel initially lacked a church, relying on visiting priests from neighboring communities.
A church was finally built in 1892. Initially called Ballejos, the village gained a post office in 1910. In 1919, it was renamed San Fidel in honor of the saint, a suggestion made by a local priest.
St. Joseph Church was built in 1920, and in 1921, San Fidel became a parish due to its central location and proximity to various pueblos, villages, and the railroad. A rectory was built in the early 1920s to house the priests serving the missions. In 1924, a school was built, initially as a public school but later becoming St. Joseph Mission School, which still serves children today.
Over time, as new parishes were established, San Fidel’s influence diminished. In 1981, the rectory was converted into a convent for the Sisters staffing the school. Today, St. Joseph’s Church is used only on special occasions.
Despite the changes, San Fidel has managed to maintain a small population of around 135 residents and still operates a post office. In its heyday, the town boasted several cafes and automobile services. Today, it still has a mechanic’s garage, a church, a school, and an art gallery/gift shop. During the peak years of Route 66, it was common to see Native Americans selling pottery along the roadside.
One notable building in San Fidel, often overlooked, is the Acoma Curio Shop, built in 1916 by Abdoo Fidel, an immigrant from Lebanon. This building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Constructed of adobe bricks, it features a false front, a characteristic more commonly associated with mining boomtowns, creating a unique blend of architectural styles.
Fidel initially opened a small mercantile business in the building before moving to a larger location. When the highway through San Fidel became part of Route 66 in 1926, Fidel recognized an opportunity to cater to tourists. In 1937, he opened the Acoma Curio Shop, specializing in crafts made exclusively by local Acoma artists.
World War II and the resulting gasoline rationing led to a decline in travel, and the Curio Shop closed soon after. Fidel refocused on his larger mercantile store, leasing the Curio Shop to Standard Oil, which operated a service station for several years. Afterward, the building housed various tenants. While the building has undergone minor alterations, it retains its historical integrity and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2009. Today, like many other old business buildings in San Fidel, it stands silent and empty.
About 2.5 miles west of San Fidel, travelers can see the remains of a once-busy Whiting Brothers complex, including a motel, gas station, and grocery store. The gas station, damaged by fire, is still standing.
McCartys: Gateway to Acoma Pueblo
A few miles beyond the old Whiting Brothers Station lies McCartys. Named after a railroad contractor, the town was established when the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad came through in the 1880s. A post office operated here from 1887 to 1911. Today, McCartys offers glimpses into its historical past, with remnants of old homes and ruins. In the early days of Route 66, Native American women and children could be seen selling baskets and Acoma pottery.
The Santa Maria de Acoma Mission, dedicated in 1933, is a prominent landmark just west of the village. The simple stone building, constructed in the Spanish Colonial style, is a half-size replica of the ancient church of old Acoma.
McCartys serves as the gateway to the Acoma Pueblo, located about 13 miles to the southeast. The pueblo allows entry only between March and October, offering guided tours.
From McCartys, old Route 66 continues toward Grants, offering travelers a journey through a landscape shaped by volcanic activity and rich in history. This section of historic pavement has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places. The road crosses through "The Malpais," a landscape marked by hardened lava flows.
Road-building was a significant engineering challenge in this area. New Deal programs during the Great Depression improved the road, paving it between 1935 and 1936. A steel pony truss bridge was built across the San Jose River in 1936.
In 1956, I-40 replaced this section of Route 66, which became its south frontage road between McCartys and the junction of I-40 and NM-117.
The ghost towns and fading communities along Route 66 in Indian Country of New Mexico offer a unique and poignant glimpse into the past. They are reminders of a time when the open road brought both opportunity and change, and their stories continue to resonate with those who seek to understand the complex history of the American Southwest.