Laguna Pueblo, New Mexico – Home of the Kawaik People
The vast, sun-drenched landscapes of New Mexico hold within them the echoes of ancient civilizations and enduring cultures. Among these, the Laguna Pueblo, a testament to resilience and adaptation, stands approximately 45 miles west of Albuquerque. This vibrant community, the largest of the Keresan pueblos, comprises six distinct villages: Laguna, Paguate, Encinal, Mesita, Seuma, and Paraje. Each village contributes to the rich tapestry of the Laguna Pueblo, a place where history and tradition intertwine with the realities of modern life.
Nestled in the shadow of the majestic Mount Taylor, the ancestors of the Puebloan people who call this land home are believed to have established themselves here as early as 1300 A.D. However, archaeological evidence unearthed in the surrounding areas suggests a human presence stretching back even further, perhaps as far as 3000 B.C. This deep connection to the land is a cornerstone of the Kawaik people’s identity, reflected in their traditions, beliefs, and way of life. The Laguna Pueblo stands as a vibrant testament to the enduring spirit of its people.
According to Pueblo tradition, their people have always resided here, their history inextricably linked to the land itself. The name "Laguna," given by the Spanish, translates to "lagoon," a reference to a lake that once graced the Pueblo lands. The people themselves, however, identify as Ka-Waikah or Ka-waik, meaning "lake people," a poignant reminder of the landscape that shaped their identity. Though the lake has long since transformed into fertile meadowlands, the name persists, a constant echo of their origins. Before the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century, the Kawaik people inhabited a region that served as a bridge between the Ancestral Pueblo people to the north and the Mogollon people to the south, absorbing influences from both cultures.
The arrival of the Spanish marked a significant turning point in the history of the Laguna Pueblo. In 1539, the Franciscan friar Marcos de Niza claimed the region for Spain, initiating a period of colonization and religious conversion. By 1616, nine missions had been established across various pueblos, including Laguna. The Spanish encountered a self-governing, agricultural society, deeply rooted in its traditions. The pueblo that exists today was formed after the Pueblo Revolt in 1699, a culmination of resistance against Spanish oppression. It was built by a group of Kawaik people and refugees from Cienguilla, Santo Domingo, Cochiti, and Zia Pueblos. The construction of the St. Joseph Church, overseen by Franciscan Friars using Laguna labor, marked the final mission built during this era. Despite the challenges posed by Spanish rule, the Laguna people demonstrated remarkable adaptability, incorporating elements necessary for survival while fiercely safeguarding their traditional beliefs and practices.
The Laguna Pueblo experienced rapid expansion, extending north, east, and west. The main village of Laguna was strategically built into the soft, light-yellow sandstone slope on the west side of the San Jose River. The original structures, constructed from stone and adobe, reflected the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the Kawaik people. The St. Joseph Church, dating back to 1701, continues to dominate the skyline, a testament to the enduring legacy of the Spanish colonial period.
The Laguna Pueblo continued to prosper through transitions from Spanish to Mexican to American rule in the 19th century. However, these changes brought new challenges, as traditional values and beliefs clashed with those of the new governing powers. Despite these difficulties, the Kawaik people persevered. Agriculture remained a central aspect of their way of life, with visitors often praising the quality of their crops. The introduction of Protestant Christianity, with the arrival of Baptists in the 1850s and Presbyterians in the 1870s, led to a schism within the community, resulting in the establishment of Mesita in the late 1800s.
In 1880, the construction of the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad commenced in New Mexico. Recognizing the potential for economic opportunity, the Pueblo granted the company permission to lay tracks across the Laguna Reservation, but only under the condition that tribal members were employed in the project. This decision set a precedent for other tribes in negotiations with the railroad, demonstrating the Laguna people’s commitment to securing their own economic well-being.
In 1935, the historic mission in Laguna underwent a complete restoration, ensuring its preservation for future generations. Today, visitors are invited to explore this picturesque adobe mission, perched atop a hill, and admire its architectural beauty and historical significance.
Before the 1950s, the economy of the Laguna Pueblo was primarily based on livestock grazing and agricultural practices. However, the discovery of uranium in 1951 ushered in a new era, transforming the region into a hub for mining activities. The tribe leased 7,868 acres to a mining company, which operated a uranium mine from 1953 to March 1982. The area near Paguate became one of the world’s richest uranium fields and the site of what was once the world’s largest open-pit mine. This period brought prosperity to the community, with many men finding employment in the mines and acquiring valuable mechanical skills. However, the closure of the mines in 1982, due to a decline in uranium prices, resulted in economic hardship and high unemployment. The mining operations also left significant environmental damage, requiring extensive cleanup efforts by the EPA.
Despite these challenges, the Laguna Pueblo, under strong leadership and with unwavering community support, embarked on a path of economic diversification. This included revitalizing traditional crafts, such as pottery making, and developing other handcrafts. The establishment of a tribal casino, the promotion of tourism, the creation of a large construction company with a global reach, and the development of numerous other businesses have contributed to a more resilient and sustainable economy. Local feast days and festivals attract visitors from far and wide, showcasing the rich cultural heritage of the Kawaik people. The pueblo also boasts five semi-professional baseball teams, providing recreational opportunities and fostering a sense of community pride.
While each village within the Laguna Pueblo has its own unique church, the most prominent landmark remains the whitewashed St. Joseph Church in Old Laguna, visible from Interstate 40 and Route 66. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places since 1973, the mission, built in 1699, is constructed from fieldstone, adobe, mortar, and plaster. The fortress-like structure features only a doorway and a small window in the upper front below the twin bells set in the parapet. The mission is renowned for its interior decoration, which showcases original Laguna art and rare early Spanish paintings along the walls and the altar. The woodwork within the mission is elaborately carved, reflecting the artistic skills and cultural values of the community. St. Joseph Church is located at 1 Friar Road in Laguna and is generally open to visitors from 9:00 am to 3:00 pm Monday-Friday.
Today, the reservation encompasses approximately 500,000 acres of land spanning Cibola, Valencia, Bernalillo, and Sandoval counties, making it the second-largest reservation in New Mexico. The tribe boasts a membership of approximately 7,000 individuals. The pueblo also offers excellent fishing opportunities at Paguate Reservoir, with permits available for purchase through the Laguna Natural Resources office. A scenic view of the pueblo can be enjoyed from Interstate 40 at mile marker 114. The pueblo-operated Dancing Eagle Casino and Travel Center is located at I-40 mile marker 108.
Route 66, the iconic "Mother Road," bisects the heart of Pueblo land, adding another layer to the region’s rich history. The original 1926 alignment through this part of New Mexico curved north from Santa Rosa to Santa Fe and then south to Albuquerque and Los Lunas, before returning to an east-west alignment near Laguna. In 1937, Route 66 was realigned to eliminate this dramatic "S-curve" and reduce its mileage. While the new alignment bypassed Santa Fe and Los Lunas, Laguna remained a significant stop along Route 66.
The villages of Mesita, Laguna, and Paraje lie along Route 66, offering travelers a glimpse into the history and culture of the Laguna Pueblo. When traveling westbound on Route 66, take Exit 117 off I-40 onto the north service road (old Route 66). Mesita, the easternmost village of the Laguna Pueblo, features a scattering of homes on both sides of I-40.
Mesita was established on the south bank of the San Jose River in the 1870s by a faction that split from the Laguna Pueblo. This division arose from the increasing influence of Protestant Christianity in the area following the arrival of Baptists in 1850 and Presbyterians in the 1870s. The word "Mesita" means "small mesa" in Spanish, while the Puebloans’ name for the village is "Ts’é Ch’ééhíí," which translates to "Red Rocks Pointing out horizontally."
In the 1880s, the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad extended its tracks from Albuquerque to Gallup through Mesita. The station was named "El Rito," meaning "tiny river."
In 1932, Father Agnellus began his assignment at Laguna and constructed four additional churches, two of which were located in Laguna villages. In Mesita, an old chapel was built in 1915 and dedicated to St. Anthony. This church was used until 1936, when a new chapel, dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, was completed. The active church continues to serve the community today.
Continuing along old Route 66 for another five miles leads to Laguna. Look for Owl’s Rock to the right, approximately two miles west of Laguna. A bit further down the road, you’ll encounter the notorious Deadman’s Curve, a 180-degree bend in the road to the left. This turn undoubtedly challenged many Route 66 travelers in the past. Approaching the village of Old Laguna, follow the sharp left turn, then turn right onto Highway 124 through the village.
Old Laguna, the first village of the Pueblo, is home to the historic St. Joseph Mission Church, built in 1699. Perched atop a hill, it is visible for miles around. The old village also features several old adobe buildings in various states of repair.
Continue along Highway 124 across the railroad to New Laguna, where the buildings are generally newer and primarily residential.
Three miles west of New Laguna, Route 66 travelers will arrive at Paraje, another pueblo village. Paraje means "place" or "residence." Many villages were initially called names, such as Paraje de Belen or Paraje de Bernalillo, because they served as stopping points for travelers. The village comprises homes and the ruins of a few old buildings, but its active church continues to stand. The St. Margaret Mary Mission Chapel was constructed by the residents of Paraje village in 1935.
West of Paraje, Route 66 (NM-124) continues westward through Budville, Villa Cubero, and San Fidel before rejoining I-40.
The Laguna Pueblo, with its rich history, vibrant culture, and enduring spirit, stands as a testament to the resilience and adaptability of the Kawaik people. From its ancient origins to its modern-day endeavors, the pueblo continues to thrive, offering visitors a glimpse into a unique and captivating world.