Lucien Maxwell by a Santa Fe Trail Driver
By William H. Ryus, 1913
The vast landscapes of the American West in the mid-19th century were not only geographical expanses but also canvases upon which extraordinary lives were painted. Among these figures, Lucien Maxwell stands out, a man whose name became synonymous with immense land holdings, lavish hospitality, and a unique blend of frontier acumen and aristocratic sensibilities. This account, penned by William H. Ryus, a seasoned Santa Fe Trail driver, offers a personal glimpse into the life and times of this enigmatic figure, providing a vivid portrayal of Lucien Maxwell and his influence on the region.
Ryus, writing in 1913, recounts his experiences along the Santa Fe Trail, offering firsthand observations of Lucien Maxwell and the world he inhabited. His narrative paints a portrait of a man who, despite his Northern roots, became deeply intertwined with the culture and landscape of New Mexico. The story begins with Maxwell’s arrival in New Mexico, just before the United States acquired the territory, a time when the land was still raw and opportunities abounded for those with the vision and audacity to seize them. He initially found employment as a hunter and trapper for the American Fur Company, a role that undoubtedly honed his skills and deepened his understanding of the western terrain.
Maxwell’s rise to prominence was inextricably linked to the Beaubien Grant, a sprawling ranch that encompassed nearly two million acres of land, bisected by the venerable Old Trail. This grant, initially owned by Carlos Beaubien, became the cornerstone of Maxwell’s vast empire. Through marriage to Beaubien’s daughter and the subsequent purchase of Mr. Miranda’s interest, Lucien Maxwell eventually became the sole proprietor of what was then the largest privately-owned landholding in the United States.
The Beaubien Grant was more than just a vast expanse of land; it was a self-contained world, a microcosm of the society and economy of the Southwest. The arable lands within the fertile valleys were cultivated by native Mexicans, who operated under the system of peonage prevalent at the time. Ryus notes that Maxwell, while operating within this system, was considered a good master, employing a considerable workforce of around 500 to 600 men.
Central to this domain was Maxwell’s residence, a structure that stood in stark contrast to the typical dwellings of the era. Described as a "veritable palace," the house was built in the grand Southern style, large and spacious, a testament to Maxwell’s ambition and resources. More than just a home, it served as a haven for travelers, a place where hospitality was freely extended without expectation of payment. Ryus emphasizes that he never knew of Maxwell charging anyone for meals or lodging, solidifying the image of a generous and open-handed host. The grant itself stretched from the Colorado border, encompassing the Raton Mountains, and extended sixty miles south, incorporating the town of Maxwell, located on the Cimarron River, which is now known as Springer, New Mexico.
The grounds surrounding Maxwell’s "palace" were a hub of activity, reflecting the diverse nature of his enterprise. Ryus describes the presence of an old brass cannon in the yard, hinting at the need for security and defense in a volatile frontier environment. The complex also included a grist mill, essential for processing grains, a sutler’s store providing goods and supplies, a wagon repair shop catering to the needs of travelers and residents alike, and a trading post facilitating commerce with the local Native American tribes.
Beyond the practical aspects of running his vast estate, Lucien Maxwell also possessed a keen interest in the education and refinement of his family. Ryus recounts the story of Maxwell’s daughter, who was sent to St. Louis, Missouri, to attend school and learn the ways of a "high-bred" lady. The narrative captures the poignant reunion between mother and daughter, highlighting the cultural divide that had grown between them during the daughter’s time away. The mother, speaking in her native Mexican tongue, found herself unable to communicate with her daughter, who had forgotten her childhood language. Maxwell stepped in as an interpreter, bridging the gap between two worlds.
Ryus further illustrates Maxwell’s character through anecdotes of his travels and relationships with other prominent figures of the West. He recounts a journey to California in 1853 with Kit Carson, a close friend and frequent visitor to the Maxwell ranch. Their venture involved driving a large herd of sheep to California, where they fetched a substantial price from the miners. However, their return journey was marred by misfortune, as they were robbed of their earnings along the Old Oregon Trail. Despite this setback, they persevered, organizing another sheep drive and taking precautions to avoid further incidents.
Maxwell’s generosity was legendary, with Ryus emphasizing that his table was set daily for at least 30 guests. These guests were a mix of invited friends and travelers who sought refuge at his "Manor House." He was known to be fond of card games, particularly poker and seven-up, often playing with personal friends and loaning them money to "stake" themselves. The house itself was a study in contrasts, with some rooms lavishly furnished while others were sparsely equipped, dedicated solely to card playing.
One particular room in Maxwell’s house, described as his "den," held a unique allure. It featured two fireplaces, tables, chairs, and an old bureau where Maxwell kept large sums of money in an unlocked drawer. Despite the open access to this wealth, no one ever dared to steal from it, a testament to Maxwell’s reputation and the respect he commanded. He famously declared that "God help the man who attempted to rob me, and I knew him!"
This room served as a gathering place for a diverse array of individuals, from friends and business associates to Native American chiefs who would sit by the fire, communicate through sign language, and share their stories. Kit Carson, when visiting, would often sleep on the floor of this room, surrounded by Indian chiefs who admired him and enjoyed watching him play cards.
Despite his Northern background, Maxwell embraced the Mexican culture, and his wife, a Mexican woman, maintained the traditional customs of her heritage. The dining rooms and kitchen were separate from the main house, with distinct areas for men and women. The dining tables were adorned with fine silver and tablecloths, reflecting Maxwell’s wealth and appreciation for quality. Ryus recalls visiting the "loom shed," where Indian women were weaving a blanket using floss and silk that cost Maxwell $100, with the women having worked on it for an entire year.
Maxwell was also known for his love of horse racing and his penchant for traveling the countryside in various conveyances, from buckboards to fine coaches. Ryus describes him as a reckless horseman and driver, adding another layer to his multifaceted personality.
However, Lucien Maxwell’s story takes a tragic turn in its final chapter. After the Civil War, an English syndicate, claiming ownership of a large tract of land in southeastern New Mexico, engaged in a trade with Maxwell, exchanging their "Rebosca Redunda" for his "Beaubien Grant." This transaction ultimately proved to be a swindle, as Maxwell discovered that he had acquired a flawed title. He initiated a lawsuit in ejectment but was unsuccessful and died a poor man, a stark contrast to the image of wealth and power that had defined his life.
Ryus concludes his account with a personal anecdote, recounting an incident in October 1864 when he was entrusted with carrying $52,000 in cash from Maxwell’s ranch to Kansas City. The money was concealed in an old black suitcase and hidden in the front boot of the stagecoach. During the journey, Ryus encountered a band of the notorious Quantrill gang, who had previously raided Lawrence, Kansas. Through his quick thinking and calm demeanor, Ryus managed to divert their attention and protect the money, ultimately delivering it safely to the Wells-Fargo Express Company.
This final tale underscores the resourcefulness and bravery of the men who traversed the Santa Fe Trail, facing constant threats from robbers and hostile Native American tribes. It also highlights the trust that Lucien Maxwell placed in Ryus, entrusting him with a significant sum of money and relying on his ability to navigate the dangers of the frontier.
William H. Ryus’s account of Lucien Maxwell provides a valuable window into the life of a remarkable man who left an indelible mark on the history of the American West. It is a story of ambition, generosity, cultural exchange, and ultimately, tragedy, reminding us of the complexities and uncertainties of life on the frontier. Ryus’s personal recollections offer a unique perspective, capturing the essence of Lucien Maxwell as seen through the eyes of a Santa Fe Trail driver, a witness to the rise and fall of a Western legend.