Lyon County, Kansas on the Santa Fe Trail
Lyon County, Kansas, a landscape etched with the history of westward expansion, bears the indelible mark of the Santa Fe Trail. As the trail sliced through the northeastern corner of the county, it served as a vital artery for commerce, migration, and the unfolding drama of the American West. The Lyon County, Kansas on the Santa Fe Trail section of the trail meandered slightly, dipping about five miles south of a direct westerly course, creating a series of stopping points that punctuated the vast prairie landscape.
These locations, though varying in significance, offered respite and resources to weary travelers. Waushara, Chicken Creek, Elm Creek, the crossing of 142 Mile Creek, and Agnes City on Rock Creek emerged as notable landmarks, each with its own story to tell. The Lyon County, Kansas on the Santa Fe Trail section was a well-worn path, a testament to the relentless flow of humanity pushing westward. Early accounts describe the trail as being 100 to 150 feet wide, its surface packed hard by the constant passage of wagon wheels and livestock.
One early resident, whose name has been lost to time, noted the practical benefits of this bare strip, recognizing its value as a natural firebreak against the sweeping prairie fires that threatened the region. The constant traffic along the Lyon County, Kansas on the Santa Fe Trail route was also a spectacle in itself. The resident recalled being able to ride to a high vantage point and witness, at almost any hour of the day, a wagon slowly making its way westward, a constant reminder of the ongoing migration.
The impact of the Lyon County, Kansas on the Santa Fe Trail is evident in the historical markers and forgotten settlements that dot the landscape. As the trail entered Lyon County, it gradually shifted towards the southwest, its first significant landmark being the crossing of Elm Creek at what became known as "Hard Bottom Ford." This natural crossing point eventually became the site of a mail station, a vital link in the communication network that stretched across the vast territory. Today, a Daughters of the American Revolution (D.A.R.) marker stands as a testament to the historical significance of this location.
The years 1858 and 1859 witnessed a surge in traffic along the Lyon County, Kansas on the Santa Fe Trail due to the Pike’s Peak gold rush in Colorado. The lure of striking it rich drew prospectors from all walks of life, their dreams and hopes propelling them westward. Some traveled in relative comfort, driving sturdy teams and wagons laden with supplies. Others, less fortunate, made the journey on horseback or even on foot, pushing small carts or wheelbarrows containing their meager earthly possessions.
Historical records indicate that on a single day in 1859, an estimated 325 wagons or carts crossed Elm Creek near the old mail station. At the height of the gold rush, it was not uncommon to see as many as 500 vehicles traversing the ford in a single day, a remarkable display of the relentless pursuit of fortune. The landscape of Lyon County, Kansas on the Santa Fe Trail was transformed by this influx of people.
Beyond Elm Creek, the trail continued its westward trajectory towards "142 Creek," named for its approximate distance of 142 miles from Fort Osage, Missouri, a significant military outpost and trading center. This location holds the distinction of being the site where the first white person to permanently reside in Lyon County settled. Just days after the Kansas-Nebraska Act was signed into law, Charles H. Withington established his home here in June 1854, marking the beginning of a new era for the region.
Like Fry McGee in neighboring Osage County, Withington’s settlement technically violated the Indian Intercourse and Trade Act, which prohibited unauthorized settlement on Native American lands. However, in the period between the passage of the Kansas-Nebraska Act and the official opening of Kansas Territory to settlement, federal authorities chose to turn a blind eye to the encroachment of settlers, recognizing the momentum of westward expansion.
Withington capitalized on the strategic location of his home along the Santa Fe Trail by opening a store, the first of its kind in the state outside of established Indian posts. This establishment quickly became a vital hub for settlers arriving in the Neosho Valley, providing them with essential supplies and a sense of community. Withington’s enterprise was not simply a ranch or a station; it was known simply as "Withington’s Store," a testament to its significance in the early development of the region.
In February 1855, a post office was established at the store, further solidifying its role as a center of communication and commerce. Withington himself was appointed as the first postmaster, a position that underscored his influence in the growing community. Over time, the store expanded to include a hotel and mail station, catering to the needs of travelers and residents alike. Withington also constructed a toll bridge over 142 Creek, generating additional revenue and facilitating safer passage across the waterway.
During the turbulent period known as "Bleeding Kansas," when pro-slavery and anti-slavery factions clashed violently over the future of the territory, the settlements along the Santa Fe Trail became targets for raids and looting. On September 15, 1856, a gang claiming to be Free-Staters ransacked Withington’s store, stealing everything in his possession. Despite this setback, Withington persevered, continuing to operate the store until 1866, when the arrival of the railroad effectively ended the Santa Fe Trail trade through the area.
Today, nothing remains of Withington’s store, a silent reminder of the transience of frontier life. The site is located several miles north of the modern town of Allen, Kansas. A D.A.R. marker stands just west of "142 Creek," commemorating the historical significance of this once-thriving settlement. From here, the trail continued westward towards Rock Creek and the now-extinct town of Agnes City.
Approximately 13 miles west of 142 Creek, travelers along the Santa Fe Trail would encounter Rock Creek, named for the rocky formations that lined its banks. The first settler in this area was Arthur Ingram Baker, who had previously worked with Charles Withington at 142 Creek. Baker had also served as a blacksmith for the Sac and Fox Agency in Iowa before relocating to Kansas with the agency in 1846. In 1854, he moved to Rock Creek, where he established his home and a "trading post." Like Withington’s business, Baker’s enterprise was simply known as a store.
This settlement, situated beside the small stream of Rock Creek, was a welcome sight for weary travelers along the Santa Fe Trail. It offered a good camping and watering-place, with ample wood for fuel. The indigenous name of the stream was Ne-ko-its-ah-ba, meaning "Dead Men’s Creek," a name derived from the large number of human bones found there by various tribes, suggesting that a major Indian battle had taken place on its banks, likely around the beginning of the 19th century.
Baker, a former blacksmith, quickly became involved in public service. He was appointed as Election Clerk in 1854 and 1855. In 1855, he was also briefly elected to the Kansas House of Representatives. However, following a recount of the votes, the seat was awarded to Mobillon McGee, a partner with his brother Fry P. McGee at 110 Mile Station.
In November 1856, a post office was established at the site and named Agnes City in honor of Arthur’s wife. Baker served as the first postmaster. The following year, Baker began replacing his original small cabin with a more substantial two-story stone house, a sign of his growing prosperity. In addition to running the store, Baker also engaged in stock-raising, farming, and operating a blacksmith shop, diversifying his economic activities. In 1857, he also began to advertise himself as an attorney, despite lacking formal legal training, demonstrating his entrepreneurial spirit.
In 1861, Baker purchased the Council Grove Press newspaper and used its platform to express his strong support for the Union cause during the Civil War. However, tragedy struck on the night of July 3, 1862, when Arthur I. Baker and his brother-in-law, George Segur, were killed at the Rock Creek crossing by "Bloody Bill" Anderson’s gang of Confederate guerrillas, a brutal reminder of the violence that plagued the region during the war.
Today, the town of Agnes City is gone, vanished into the mists of history. The only remaining trace of its existence is its cemetery, a silent testament to the lives that were lived and lost in this once-thriving settlement. A D.A.R. marker commemorates the townsite and its connection to the Santa Fe Trail.
Agnes City Cemetery, which is still maintained, is located half a mile north of Road 360 and Road E, just across from the old townsite. From Agnes City, the Santa Fe Trail continued westward towards the historic town of Council Grove, in nearby Morris County, where numerous Santa Fe Trail sites can still be visited, offering a tangible link to the past and a glimpse into the rich history of the American West.