Morris County, Kansas Santa Fe Trail

The Santa Fe Trail, a vital artery of commerce and westward expansion in the 19th century, etched its mark deeply into the landscape of Kansas. Within Morris County, the echoes of wagon wheels, the whispers of traders, and the stories of pioneers resonate through preserved landmarks and historical sites. This article will guide you through the significant locations in Morris County, Kansas Santa Fe Trail, offering a glimpse into the rich history and enduring legacy of this iconic route.

Echoes of the Trail: Landmarks and Legacy

Just east of Council Grove, north of the Morris County Fairgrounds off U.S. 56, stands a testament to the past: an old stone barn erected in 1871 by Council Grove founder Seth Hays. This 76-foot-long structure, built from native stone, later became part of the Morris County Poor Farm, which occupied the site from 1889 to 1945. Its listing on the National Register of Historic Places speaks to its importance, and thankfully, repairs in the 1990s saved it from collapse. Today, the Old Stone Barn serves as a gathering place, hosting re-enactments of the Santa Fe Trail rendezvous in June, bringing the past to life for modern audiences. This building plays a crucial role in interpreting the story of the Morris County, Kansas Santa Fe Trail.

Continuing along the route, the trail once crossed Big John Creek and passed close by Big John Spring. This spring, in its time, was adorned with numerous stones bearing inscriptions, names, and dates – a tangible record of the travelers who quenched their thirst and rested by its waters. Sadly, modern development has taken its toll, with Highway U.S. 56 now running directly over this historic site. However, the memory of Big John Spring remains a poignant reminder of the personal stories interwoven with the larger narrative of the Morris County, Kansas Santa Fe Trail.

Council Grove: A Crossroads of Commerce and Culture

The trail then leads into Council Grove, a name synonymous with the Santa Fe Trail. This was the most significant stopping point between the Missouri River and Santa Fe, New Mexico. On August 10, 1825, a pivotal treaty was forged here with the Osage Indians, granting the right-of-way for the trail across the Plains in exchange for $800 in goods and other considerations. For years, Council Grove represented the last opportunity for travelers to replenish their supplies and prepare for the arduous journey ahead. Main Street in Council Grove, straddling both sides of the Neosho River, traces the very course of the trail, a living map of history.

Council Grove was a hive of activity during the trail’s peak. Soldiers, freighters, and gold seekers converged here, forming caravans before venturing across the vast, often treeless plains that stretched for 624 miles. It was a place where travelers elected caravan officers and established rules to maintain order and safety. The town bustled with early morning energy, filled with the dust, noise, and chaos of wagons jockeying for position. Wagonmasters’ calls of "Catch up!" and "Stretch out!" echoed through the air as the wagon trains lumbered into motion, beginning their long journey.

Council Grove’s significance is beautifully captured in a historical account: "The warmest description will scarcely convey to the untraveled readers even a faint picture of this very beautiful grove…A crystal stream meanders over its pebbly bottom while the sun blazes upon the surrounding desert. We sat…fished, bathed, read, sang, talked of home, and of the strange country we were about to visit, of the wild travel we had yet to encounter." This poignant description encapsulates the respite and anticipation that Council Grove offered to those embarking on the Santa Fe Trail.

Landmarks of Council Grove: A Walk Through Time

Council Oak: Located on U.S. Highway 56 (E. Main Street), near N. 4th Street, stands the old Council Oak. It earned its name from the council held under its branches on August 10, 1825. Three U.S. commissioners and the chiefs of the Great and Little Osage Indians attended the council. This meeting resulted in a treaty granting Americans and Hispanics free passage along the Santa Fe Trail through Osage territory in exchange for an $800 payment, along with ribbons, tobacco, calico, and other goods. The treaty also authorized the marking of a road from the western frontier of Missouri to New Mexico. Though a storm destroyed the original tree, its stump remains protected under a canopy, a silent witness to this significant event. An outdoor exhibit further illuminates the history of this site, which is crucial to understanding the story of the Morris County, Kansas Santa Fe Trail.
Post Office Oak: Continuing down East Main Street, one encounters the Post Office Oak and Museum. From 1825 to 1847, this old oak tree served as an unofficial postal station for Santa Fe Trail travelers. A hole in its base served as a repository for mail and messages, allowing travelers to communicate with others on the trail. The original tree, estimated to be 300 years old, died in 1990, leaving only its trunk as a reminder of its historical role. Adjacent to the tree stands a stone house, built in 1864 as a residence with a brewery in the basement. Today, the Morris County Historical Society operates it as a museum, preserving the legacy of the Post Office Oak and the Santa Fe Trail.
Neosho River Crossing: River crossings on the Santa Fe Trail presented considerable challenges. The combination of unpredictable livestock and soft riverbeds made it difficult to navigate the heavy wagons safely. An ideal crossing required shallow water, a firm rock bed, and gentle slopes. The Neosho River Crossing, located just north of where U.S. Highway 56 (Main Street) crosses the Neosho River, was one of the most important and well-documented river crossings along the trail. While steep banks and high water sometimes posed problems, the presence of a flat, hard rock streambed generally made the crossing manageable. A Riverwalk Park now marks the site, with an outdoor exhibit located on the east side.
Seth Hays Home: Seth M. Hays, grandson of Daniel Boone and cousin of Kit Carson, was a prominent figure in Council Grove’s history. He arrived in 1847 to trade with the Kanza/Kaw Indians. His businesses flourished, and in 1867, he built a large brick home that was considered elaborate for Council Grove at the time. This home is one of the few trail homes in the area that has been preserved in its original condition. Today, the Morris County Historical Society operates it as a museum. A historical marker stands on the property, located on Wood Street near Hall Street.
Hays House Restaurant: Another enduring landmark associated with Seth Hays is the Hays House Restaurant, located at 112 West Main. Hays initially built a log house on this site, which served as a trading post with the Indians. In 1857, he erected a larger building known as the Frame Store. This building served as a trading post, restaurant, hotel, courthouse, post office, printing office, and meeting hall. The Hays House Restaurant is renowned as the oldest continuously operated restaurant west of the Mississippi River. Its interior showcases a collection of historical artifacts, including artwork, arrowheads, and other American Indian relics.
Pioneer/Conn Store: Built in 1858 by Malcolm Conn, the Conn Store was one of the two primary trading posts in Council Grove during the Santa Fe Trail era. It catered to the Kanza/Kaw Indians, Santa Fe Trail travelers, and later, local settlers. One of the oldest buildings still standing in Council Grove, the Conn Store offered accommodations, meals, and stables, in addition to its retail operations. The building, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, is currently occupied by a local business.
Simcock House: In 1860, Council Grove merchant Goodson M. Simcock built the southwest portion of this 2-story stone house. Simcock was a business partner of Seth Hays. The house, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, is a private residence and is not open to the public.
Kaw Mission State Historic Site: This land was once part of the Kaw and Osage Indian homelands. In 1846, the federal government forced the Kaw people onto a 20-square-mile reservation surrounding Council Grove. In 1850, workers from the Shawnee Methodist Mission built the Kaw Mission and a boarding school for Indian boys. The mission opened in 1851, but closed in 1854. Today, the Kaw Mission is one of the oldest buildings still standing in this part of Kansas and is operated by the Kansas State Historical Society as a museum.
Hermit’s Cave: Located on Belfry St. near Hays St., Hermit’s Cave was the temporary residence of Giovanni Maria Augustini, an Italian religious mystic known as Father Francesco. He lived in Council Grove briefly in the spring of 1863, before walking the 550 miles on the Santa Fe Trail to Las Vegas, New Mexico.
Terwilliger Home: The Terwilliger Home, located on 803 West Main, was built by Abraham and Mary Rawlinson in 1860-61. The stone home was the last house freighters passed going West when leaving Council Grove as late as 1863. Today, it is one of the four oldest homes remaining alongside the Santa Fe Trail in Kansas and currently houses a bakery cafe.
Last Chance Store: Built in 1857 by Tom and Lucy Hill, the Last Chance Store was the last place to obtain supplies on the Santa Fe Trail, hence its name. The building also served as a post office for several years. Located at the corner of Main Street (Highway 56) and Chatauqua Street, at the west end of the Council Grove business district, it is the oldest commercial building in Council Grove and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Beyond Council Grove: Following the Trail Westward

West of Council Grove, the trail split into two routes: one along the high divide north of Elm Creek and the other up the creek’s valley. These routes converged near the present town of Wilsey.

Santa Fe Trail Ruts: Located about five miles west of Council Grove, a wide swale created by Santa Fe Trail travelers can still be seen. A sign marks the center of the swale, which is located on private property.
Diamond Springs: The trail continued to Diamond Spring, a favored stop on the Santa Fe Trail known for its high-quality water. A stage station and small settlement developed here, but were destroyed in a raid by Missouri bushwhackers during the Civil War.
Six Mile Creek Crossing & Stage Station: The road then led to the Six Mile Creek Crossing and Stage Station, near Burdick, Kansas. The stage station was built around 1863 after the Diamond Spring station was destroyed.

Conclusion

The Morris County, Kansas Santa Fe Trail offers a captivating journey through time, revealing the stories of those who traveled this historic route. From the landmarks in Council Grove to the remnants of the trail ruts in the surrounding countryside, the legacy of the Santa Fe Trail continues to resonate within the landscape of Morris County, Kansas. Exploring these sites provides a powerful connection to the past, allowing us to appreciate the courage, determination, and cultural exchange that shaped the American West.