Patagonia Back Road Ghost Towns
The landscape southwest of Patagonia, Arizona, stretching towards the Mexican border, is a tapestry woven with the threads of forgotten settlements and decaying mining infrastructure. These remnants whisper tales of bustling industry and dreams of fortune, now faded into the quietude of the desert. Patagonia, a present-day haven for art enthusiasts and nature lovers, sits 18 miles northeast of Nogales on Highway 82. This charming town, home to less than a thousand residents, serves as a gateway to a historical journey, a passage through the echoes of Arizona’s mining past.
Before embarking on a back road adventure to explore the ghost towns of Harshaw, Mowry, Washington Camp, Duquesne, and Lochiel, careful preparation is essential. The journey begins in Patagonia, so ensure your vehicle is fully fueled, as available gas stations may be limited. A small market in town provides an opportunity to stock up on vital supplies such as water and snacks, ensuring comfort during what could be an all-day exploration of these remote sites.
The initial stretch of Harshaw Road leading out of Patagonia is generally well-maintained with gravel, a testament to the area’s ongoing ranching activities. However, as you venture further south, the road conditions progressively deteriorate. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended to navigate the increasingly challenging terrain.
It is important to be aware of the area’s sensitive nature. The region is known for both illegal border crossings and the presence of U.S. Border Patrol. While the Border Patrol maintains a presence to ensure safety and security, visitors should be prepared for potential vehicle checks. Furthermore, the back roads may be used for illicit activities, adding an element of caution to the journey.
Embarking on the Ghost Town Trail
The first destination on this historical circuit is Harshaw. To reach this former mining hub, turn off State Route 82 in Patagonia onto Taylor Avenue. Travel one block and then turn east onto Harshaw Road. The site of Harshaw lies approximately eight miles southeast of Patagonia.
Harshaw: A Silver Boom and Bust
The story of Harshaw began in 1877, when a local rancher named David Harshaw made a significant discovery. While grazing his cattle, he stumbled upon a remarkably rich silver vein. This discovery quickly transformed the rancher into a miner, and he named his newfound claim "Hermosa." News of the find spread rapidly, attracting a wave of prospectors and settlers to the area. The town that emerged around the mine adopted the name of its founder, Harshaw.
The Hermosa Mine, located south of Harshaw along what is now a Jeep trail, quickly became the area’s primary producer. Its peak output occurred during a four-month period in 1880, when it yielded over 350,000 in ore. However, by this time, David Harshaw had already sold his claim and moved on to other ventures. Despite his departure, the town of Harshaw continued to thrive, boasting a population of around 2,000. Approximately 150 residents were employed at the mine, while another 20 worked at the stamp mill. The town’s infrastructure expanded rapidly, with the establishment of a post office on April 29, 1880. Main Street, stretching for a mile, became a hub of activity, lined with seven saloons, a boarding house, a hotel, various shops, and even a newspaper called the Arizona Bullion.
The prosperity of Harshaw, however, was short-lived. In 1882, the town suffered a devastating fire, compounded by a significant decline in the quality of the ore. These misfortunes led to a mass exodus, with the majority of the population abandoning Harshaw. The Tombstone Epitaph reported that year that "over 200 buildings stand empty with broken windows and open doors."
Despite this setback, Harshaw experienced a brief revival in 1887. James Finley, a businessman from Tucson, purchased the Hermosa claim for $600 and initiated mining operations on a smaller scale. This renewed activity brought the town’s population back to around 100. However, tragedy struck again in 1903 with the death of Finley and a sharp drop in the market price of silver. These events marked the final decline of Harshaw, and its post office was permanently closed on March 4, 1903.
Harshaw was once again abandoned until 1937, when the Arizona Smelting and Refining Company (ASARCO) reopened the nearby Flux and Trench Mines, bringing a small number of residents back to the area. Asarco continued mining operations in the area until 1956.
Today, only a few remnants of this once-thriving community remain. These include the James Finley home, a tin-roofed adobe residence that is still occupied, a crumbling home, and the cemetery. Just south of the site are the remains of the Harshaw/Trench Camp Church and various mining remnants.
Mowry: A Tale of Success and Accusation
Continuing along FR 49 for another five miles or so, the next stop is the old town site of Mowry. The site is located .2 miles east on FR214; however, only a few low foundations are visible today.
Mining in this area dates back to 1857, when Mexican laborers worked the claim. In 1859, Sylvester Mowry purchased the claim and renamed it the Mowry Mine. He invested heavily in equipment, and the mine quickly became a successful operation, shipping approximately $1.5 million in ore over the next several years.
Mowry’s promising future was abruptly cut short in 1862 when he was arrested and charged with selling lead for ammunition to the Confederacy. He was sent to Yuma Prison, his mine was sold, and his equipment was destroyed. Later that same year, he was released for lack of evidence and attempted to regain ownership of the mine and seek reimbursement from the government. However, he was unsuccessful and eventually moved to England, where he died in 1871 at the age of 39. Although the mine was allegedly producing more than $4,000 per week at the time of its seizure, it only operated sporadically afterward, changing hands several times without ever regaining its former profitability.
Although only a few foundation remains are visible at the townsite, a rugged road that goes north off FR 214 leads to some adobe walls that are still standing. Beyond them are said to be the mine and smelter site, the collapsed shaft, and a stone powder house. However, this area is on private property, so venturing down any of the roads leading north is not advised.
Washington Camp: A Supply Hub
Another four miles south, just beyond the junction of FR 49 and Duquesne Road, lies the old site of Washington Camp, once the largest community south of Patagonia. Washington Camp served as a supply community for the mining towns of Duquesne, Mowry, and Harshaw. Prospecting occurred briefly in the early 1860s but was quickly abandoned due to numerous Apache attacks. However, in 1890, when the Duquesne Mining and Reduction Company began operations, the town of Duquesne was born, as well as nearby Washington Camp, which housed the reduction plant, miners’ bunkhouses, a general store, and a school. The town grew to approximately 1,000 residents.
Today, some old mining buildings, shafts, and tailings can still be seen.
Duquesne: A Company Town
Just another half mile down the road (now FR 61), the ghost town enthusiast will be rewarded with many more remains in the old mining camp of Duquesne. Located so close to Washington Camp, one might question why they were considered separate "towns." To reach the main buildings, take FR 128, a rough road that branches to the right from FR 61 and eventually circles back.
When the Duquesne Mining and Reduction Company began operations here in the late 1880s, they laid out the city, designating areas for company officials’ residences and mining offices. A post office began on May 13, 1880. Duquesne grew to include 1,000 residents and several businesses.
This old town features numerous old homes, the mining company headquarters, and foundations. According to locals, tourists are not welcome here, and the area is heavily posted with no trespassing signs. However, the road is a public forest road, and most remains can be photographed from the road.
Continuing on, the road will circle back around until it returns to FR 61. Another four miles south is a monument to Fray Marcos de Niza, a Franciscan friar and the first European to enter the United States west of the Rocky Mountains.
Just southeast of the monument is Lochiel.
Lochiel: A Border Town Oasis
This old town was first called Luttrell, named for Dr. J.M. Luttrell, who ran a boarding house and owned the Holland Company Smelting Works. The first post office opened with the name Luttrell in 1880. For unknown reasons, another post office opened in 1882, called La Noria, just a mile from the first post office. A year later, they both closed. However, another opened in 1884, with the town’s "final" name of Lochiel. Named for two brothers’ ancestral home in Scotland, this time, the name stuck. The mining community grew to include two smelters, three saloons, five stores, a boarding house, several businesses, and a population of about 400. Though the miners profited, the ranchers were at risk during the early days, as none other than Pancho Villa would often come across the border to steal cattle before escaping back to Mexico.
Like most mining towns, its life was short, and its post office closed forever on September 30, 1911. However, there was still life in Lochiel, and in 1918, a one-room schoolhouse and a teacherage still exist today. In fact, in the 1980s, the town wanted to re-open the school and had several applications from teachers interested in the challenge of a one-room schoolhouse. Unfortunately, there were no students to attend. During this same decade, the customs station serving border crossings was also closed for budgetary reasons.
This old community, nestled in the corner of the San Rafael Valley and surrounded by cottonwoods, is an oasis in the desert, so much so that several Hollywood films have been made here, including Monte Walsh, Oklahoma!, and Tom Horn.
The town is also privately owned and fenced off, but several buildings, including the church, the old U.S. Customs Station, the one-room schoolhouse, and teacherage, can all be seen from the road.