Farm Country of Southern Illinois on Route 66
The allure of Route 66, the "Mother Road," extends far beyond the iconic landmarks and bustling roadside attractions. It whispers tales of simpler times, of agricultural heartlands that sustained the nation, and of communities that blossomed and sometimes faded along its path. In Southern Illinois, this narrative is particularly poignant, where the fertile farmlands cradle towns like Livingston, Hamel, and Edwardsville, each a unique chapter in the Route 66 story. These towns, while distinct in character, share a common thread: their intertwined history with agriculture and their enduring connection to the legendary highway.
Livingston: A Coal Mining Town Rooted in Farmland
Just a short four-mile jaunt from Staunton, Illinois, along the celebrated Route 66, travelers encounter the unassuming village of Livingston. While its origins lie in the coal mining boom of the early 20th century, today, Livingston’s lifeblood flows from the surrounding farms that blanket the landscape. Established in 1905, this quaint village exemplifies the resilience of small-town America, adapting to changing economic landscapes while retaining its historical charm. The story of Livingston is one of transformation, from a bustling mining hub to a tranquil agricultural community sustained by the rich soil of Southern Illinois.
Before the establishment of Livingston in 1904, the region was primarily characterized by sprawling farmlands. The arrival of the Staunton Coal Company brought a surge of settlers seeking employment, congregating near the railroad tracks that paralleled the mine. This influx of workers hailed from across the United States and from various corners of the globe, contributing to the town’s diverse cultural fabric. The nascent settlement was christened Livingston in honor of a local farming family, the Livingston family, upon whose land significant coal deposits were discovered. The Livingston family played a pivotal role in the town’s development, laying out the village’s initial street grid. In December 1904, the Livingston Lumber Company office became the site of the first post office, with David G. Livingston assuming the role of postmaster. David G. Livingston was an influential figure in the town’s early years, holding various public offices, including deputy sheriff, deputy coroner, and school treasurer. Livingston was officially incorporated as a village in November 1905, marking a significant milestone in its growth. The following year, the town was connected to the world through the advent of telephone service.
The early years of Livingston were marked by rapid development. In 1907, a village hall and jail were constructed, along with a new frame schoolhouse. The year 1911 witnessed the establishment of the town’s first bank and church, solidifying its community infrastructure. However, progress was not without its setbacks. In 1912, a devastating fire engulfed a large store, spreading to the village hall and jail, causing significant damage. Undeterred, the community rallied, and in the following year, a new two-story brick village hall was erected, housing a jail, firehouse, and meeting hall. In 1917, the town’s commitment to education was further demonstrated by the construction of a new creamery and Livingston’s first high school.
Over the decades, Livingston experienced periods of growth and decline, mirroring the fluctuations in the coal mining industry. While new businesses and churches were established, the closure of the New Staunton Coal Company in 1930 marked the beginning of the industry’s decline, leading to economic challenges and population shifts. Businesses came and went, reflecting the changing economic landscape. The last class graduated from Livingston Community Consolidated High School in 2004, after which the Livingston School District merged with the Staunton School District. Today, Livingston is a close-knit community of approximately 850 residents. Despite its relatively small size, Livingston offers visitors a glimpse into the past, with remnants of its coal mining history and the enduring presence of the surrounding farmlands. The Pink Elephant Antique Mall, a popular stop along Route 66, adds to the town’s unique charm.
Hamel: Where Route 66 Pride Shines Bright
A mere eight miles further down Route 66 lies the village of Hamel, Illinois, a community that proudly embraces its connection to the Mother Road. Before reaching Hamel, travelers are greeted by the St. Paul Lutheran Church and its prominent blue neon cross, erected by the Brunnworth family in memory of their son who perished in World War II. This beacon of light serves as a poignant reminder of the sacrifices made by those who came before us and a symbol of safe passage for travelers along the historic highway.
Across Interstate 55 from the blue cross stands the restored Hamel Barn, one of the few remaining advertisements for Meramec Caverns. The Route 66 Illinois Preservation Committee meticulously restored the barn, preserving a tangible link to the era when roadside advertising was a ubiquitous part of the travel experience.
As one enters Hamel, it becomes immediately apparent that this is a town that cherishes its Route 66 heritage. Banners and Burma-Shave signs adorn the streets, celebrating the town’s connection to the iconic highway. Established in 1818, Hamel remained an unincorporated village until 1955, and today, it is home to fewer than 600 residents. A must-visit destination in Hamel is Weezy’s Route 66 Bar and Grill, situated at the junction of old Route 66 and Route 140. Originally built in the 1930s as Ernie’s Roadhouse, this historic tavern continues to welcome travelers with its warm hospitality and refreshing beverages. Weezy’s Route 66 is a testament to the enduring appeal of Route 66 and a gathering place for locals and visitors alike. Hamel’s dedication to preserving its Route 66 heritage makes it a memorable stop for anyone traveling the Mother Road.
Edwardsville: A City Steeped in History and Architecture
Another eight miles down the road, travelers arrive at Edwardsville, the third oldest city in Illinois, boasting a rich tapestry of history and architectural gems. The earliest known structure in what is now Edwardsville was a log cabin built in 1805 by Thomas Kirkpatrick. Soon, other settlers followed suit, and one of the original cabins from that era still stands at 1712 N. Main Street, a tangible reminder of the city’s humble beginnings.
In 1812, Ninian Edwards, the first territorial governor of Illinois, established Madison County and designated Kirkpatrick’s farm as the county seat. Three years later, Kirkpatrick surveyed the burgeoning settlement and named it Edwardsville in honor of the governor.
As more pioneers arrived, Edwardsville’s growth accelerated. By 1816, the village had two stores. One was owned by Abraham Prickett, who had journeyed from Kentucky in 1808 and would later become the town’s first postmaster. His son, George, holds the distinction of being the first white child born in the settlement. The other store was owned by Benjamin Stephenson, who hailed from Virginia. Stephenson later constructed a home that still stands in Edwardsville today. Built in 1820 in the federal style, it was the first brick building in Edwardsville and is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Today, the building houses a museum that offers interactive exhibits that bring history to life. Edwardsville was formally incorporated in 1819, solidifying its status as a recognized municipality.
John T. Lusk, who built the first log cabin in what later became the upscale residential area of St. Louis Street, also operated the first hotel in the city at Main and Union Streets. Edwardsville continued to flourish in its early years, and Governor Edwards eventually made it his home, building a large house at the corner of Buchanan and Vandalia Streets, although this residence has not been preserved.
By 1834, much of Edwardsville’s trade was being diverted to nearby St. Louis, and the town’s population declined. At that time, Edwardsville had approximately 350 residents, four stores, two saloons, a castor oil factory, and a female academy. However, in the mid-19th century, Edwardsville experienced renewed growth, and after the Civil War, the town’s population reached around 2,000. Benefiting from its proximity to the railroad, Edwardsville saw the establishment of new businesses and factories.
In 1890, N. O. Nelson relocated his plumbing and fixture factory to the outskirts of Edwardsville. He also built his model company town, based on the principles of the cooperative movement and profit-sharing between owners and laborers. The workers chose the name Leclaire, after Edmund Leclaire of France, a pioneer in profit sharing. The town eventually encompassed 150 acres and offered a wealth of educational and recreational opportunities.
Today, Edwardsville is a thriving city with over 21,500 residents, offering a captivating blend of history and architecture. The Edwardsville Historic Preservation Commission has designated 40 local landmarks, including several historic homes. Two districts are listed on the National Register of Historic Places: the Leclaire district, which includes N. O. Nelson’s company town, and the St. Louis district, a tree-lined residential area showcasing a variety of architectural styles. The downtown area of Edwardsville features numerous commercial buildings dating back to the late 1800s, making it a worthwhile destination for architecture enthusiasts. The Wildey Theater is another Edwardsville landmark.
As you leave Edwardsville, be sure to notice the vintage Town and County Motel sign on the right side of the road, just before crossing the I-255 overpass.
From Edwardsville, Route 66 continues onward to Mitchell, the Chain of Rocks Bridge, Collinsville, and ultimately, the state of Missouri. The journey through Southern Illinois on Route 66 is a journey through time, offering glimpses into the region’s agricultural heritage, its industrial past, and the enduring spirit of the communities that call it home. Each town along the way has a unique story to tell, making the experience both enriching and unforgettable. The towns of Livingston, Hamel and Edwardsville are all part of the Farm Country of Southern Illinois on Route 66. The Farm Country of Southern Illinois on Route 66 provides a glimpse into small town america. The traveler on Route 66 will find a trip through the Farm Country of Southern Illinois on Route 66 a worthwhile experience.