Santa Monica, California – End of Route 66
Santa Monica, a vibrant coastal city in California, stands as a testament to the Golden State’s rich history and enduring allure. Its story is one of exploration, development, and transformation, from its early days as part of a Spanish land grant to its modern incarnation as a bustling tourist destination and residential haven. The city’s significance is further amplified by its role as the western terminus of the iconic Route 66, a road that symbolizes the American spirit of adventure and the open road.
The narrative of Santa Monica begins long before its incorporation as a city. The Tongva people, also known as the Gabrielino Indians, were the original inhabitants of the area, their presence woven into the very fabric of the land. Their connection to the coastline and its resources shaped the region for centuries.
The arrival of Europeans marked a turning point. Gaspar de Portolá, a Spanish military officer, led an expedition in 1769 tasked with extending Spain’s influence along the Pacific Coast. On August 3rd, Portolá and his men camped near what is now Wilshire Boulevard, marking the first recorded European presence in the area that would become Santa Monica. Portolá’s expedition laid the groundwork for future Spanish colonization and the establishment of missions and ranchos throughout California.
Following the Spanish claim, large ranchos began to dominate the landscape, owned by prominent and wealthy families. These sprawling estates shaped the character of the region, with cattle ranching and agriculture becoming the primary economic activities. The transition from indigenous lands to Spanish ranchos fundamentally altered the landscape and the lives of the native population.
The modern history of Santa Monica began in 1874 when Nevada Senator John P. Jones recognized the potential of the area and purchased nearly 10,000 acres with the intention of developing a city. The following year, he began selling lots, officially founding Santa Monica on the original Don Francisco Sepulveda land grant. The establishment of the city marked a new era of growth and development.
The origin of the city’s name is shrouded in two intriguing stories. One suggests that Santa Monica was named in honor of the feast day of Saint Monica. The other, more romantic tale, suggests that a dripping spring in the area reminded early residents of the Saint’s tears. Regardless of the true origin, the name evokes a sense of serenity and natural beauty.
In 1886, the residents of the burgeoning town voted to incorporate Santa Monica, solidifying its status as an official municipality. The first town hall was a modest brick building that later transitioned into a saloon. Remarkably, this historic building still stands today, serving as part of the Santa Monica Hostel, a tangible link to the city’s past.
Further development continued in the late 19th century. In 1884, W.D. Vawter purchased 100 acres in the southwestern section of the city for a subdivision. Abbot Kinney later acquired the coastal strip portion, naming it Ocean Park in 1895. Kinney envisioned Ocean Park as an amusement park and residential project, a vision that quickly materialized with the construction of a racetrack and golf course. Later, Kinney shifted his focus to the south end of the property, transforming it into Venice of America, now known as Venice, California, a unique and vibrant community known for its canals and artistic spirit.
The arrival of the Southern Pacific Railroad in Los Angeles sparked a debate about the location of the seaport. While the railroad favored Santa Monica, other interests advocated for San Pedro Bay. The Long Wharf, built in 1893 at the north end of the city to accommodate large ships, was even dubbed Port Los Angeles. However, in 1897, the US Congress ultimately selected San Pedro Bay, now known as the Port of Los Angeles. While this decision disappointed Jones and other property owners, it arguably allowed Santa Monica to retain its scenic charm and develop its unique character. The rail line down to Santa Monica Canyon was sold to the Pacific Electric Railroad and was in use from 1891 to 1933, further contributing to the city’s growth and accessibility.
The early 20th century witnessed the rise of amusement piers as popular attractions. The extensive Pacific Electric Railroad made it easy for people from across greater Los Angeles to reach the beaches. Competing pier owners sought to outdo each other with ever-larger roller coaster rides and attractions. At one point, there were five piers in Santa Monica alone, along with several more down the coast, including Abbot Kinney’s Venice of America pier. The 1909 Santa Monica Pier stands as the last remaining amusement pier on the north bay, a testament to the enduring appeal of this seaside entertainment.
In 1921, Donald W. Douglas founded the Douglas Aircraft Company, establishing its first plant on Wilshire Boulevard. A second plant was built the following year at Clover Field (Santa Monica Airport), which remained in operation for 46 years. Clover Field played a significant role in aviation history. In 1924, four Douglas-built planes took off from Clover Field in an attempt to be the first to circumnavigate the world by air. Two of the planes successfully completed the journey, covering 27,553 miles in 175 days. Their return on September 23, 1924, was met by a crowd estimated at 200,000 people. The Douglas Company, later known as McDonnell Douglas, maintained facilities in the city until the 1960s, leaving a lasting legacy in the aerospace industry.
The prosperity of the 1920s fueled significant growth in Santa Monica. The city’s population more than doubled, from 15,000 to 32,000, by the end of the decade. Downtown experienced a construction boom, with the emergence of important buildings such as Henshey’s Department Store (since destroyed) and the Criterion Theater. Elegant resorts, including the 1925 Miramar Hotel and the 1926 Club Casa del Mar, opened their doors, attracting visitors and contributing to the city’s glamorous image. The art deco Bay City Building, designed by Stiles O. Clements, was completed in 1930. This 13-story skyscraper, topped with a distinctive four-faced clock, remains a landmark and a symbol of the city’s architectural heritage.
The La Monica Ballroom, which opened in 1924 on the Santa Monica Pier, could accommodate 10,000 dancers in its expansive 15,000 square foot space. A major storm in 1926 caused significant damage to the pier and the ballroom, necessitating extensive repairs. In its heyday, La Monica hosted numerous national radio and television broadcasts before being transformed into a skating rink in 1958. As the largest skating rink in Southern California, it entertained thousands of skaters for the next five years. However, structural damage led to its demolition in 1963.
Comedian Will Rogers purchased a substantial ranch in Santa Monica Canyon in 1922. Among the improvements he made was a polo field where he enjoyed playing with friends like Spencer Tracy, Walt Disney, and Robert Montgomery. Upon his death, it was discovered that he had generously bequeathed his ranch to the public. Today, the ranch is known as Will Rogers State Historic Park, Will Rogers State Park, and Will Rogers State Beach, offering visitors a glimpse into the life of this beloved entertainer and a chance to enjoy the natural beauty of the area.
In the 1930s, corruption infiltrated Santa Monica, mirroring a similar trend in neighboring Los Angeles. Gambling ships began anchoring in Santa Monica Bay just beyond the three-mile limit, with water taxis ferrying patrons from Santa Monica and Venice. The largest of these ships, the S.S. Rex, launched in 1938, could accommodate up to 3,000 gamblers at a time. The Rex became a target for anti-gambling advocates. After state Attorney General Earl Warren obtained a court order to shut down the ships as a nuisance, the crew of the Rex initially resisted the police using water cannons and even brandishing submachine guns. The engine-less ship eventually surrendered after nine days in what newspapers dubbed "The Battle of Santa Monica Bay." Its owner, Tony Cornero, later went on to build the Stardust casino in Las Vegas, Nevada.
In 1936, Route 66, the iconic "Mother Road," was extended from downtown Los Angeles to Santa Monica, officially ending at the intersection of Olympic and Lincoln Boulevards. Although a plaque dedicating US 66 as the Will Rogers Highway was placed at the intersection of Ocean Boulevard and Santa Monica Boulevard, the highway never actually terminated there. Nevertheless, the association with Route 66 cemented Santa Monica’s place in American popular culture and travel history.
The 3,000-seat Santa Monica Civic Auditorium, designed in the international style by Welton Becket, opened in 1958. From 1961 to 1968, the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences held its annual Oscar awards ceremony at the auditorium, adding to the city’s prestige and association with the entertainment industry. Since the late 1980s, the auditorium has been primarily used for trade conventions rather than performances.
Pacific Ocean Park, the last of the grand amusement piers, opened in 1958. Although it initially rivaled Disneyland in popularity, attendance eventually declined, and the park was foreclosed for back taxes by 1967. It remained abandoned and dilapidated, posing a safety hazard, until its removal in 1974.
The Douglas plant closed in 1968, resulting in the loss of Santa Monica’s largest employer. It took a decade for the site to be redeveloped into an office park. The Museum of Flying opened on the same site a decade later, in 1989, preserving the city’s aviation history.
Today, Santa Monica, a city with a population of over 91,000, has revitalized its downtown core, attracting tourists and maintaining its status as a desirable resort-like destination.
The city boasts several attractions, most notably the Santa Monica Pier, renowned for its stunning sunrises and sunsets. The charming downtown district offers a variety of shops and boutiques, as well as historic theaters and museums, making Santa Monica a destination with both entertainment and cultural significance.