Bell, New Mexico – On Top of Johnson’s Mesa
Nestled atop the expansive Johnson Mesa in New Mexico lies what remains of the once-thriving community of Bell. Located approximately 16 miles east of Raton along New Mexico Highway 72, Bell was a testament to the resilience and ambition of farmers and miners who sought a life amidst the sweeping landscapes of the American West. Today, it stands as a poignant reminder of the cyclical nature of boom and bust, and the enduring spirit of those who dared to carve out a living in a challenging environment.
The Ascent to Johnson Mesa
The journey to Johnson Mesa is an experience in itself. Highway 72, a significant portion of the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway, meanders through the rugged, coal-rich canyons east of Yankee. As the road ascends, travelers are often treated to glimpses of the region’s diverse wildlife. Deer gracefully bound through the underbrush, wild turkeys strut across open meadows, and, on rare occasions, the majestic form of a bear can be spotted in the distance. These encounters, coupled with the breathtaking vistas of the lower elevations, set the stage for the unique landscape that awaits above.
The transition from the winding canyons to the summit of Johnson Mesa is abrupt and dramatic. The road suddenly levels out, and visitors find themselves on an expansive plateau that stretches nearly 100 square miles. Johnson Mesa extends approximately 14 miles from east to west and varies between 2 and 6 miles in width from north to south. This high, grassy plateau sits an impressive 2,000 feet above the valley floor, offering panoramic views that seem to stretch endlessly.
The Pioneers of Johnson Mesa
The first white settler to establish a foothold in this area was Elijah “Lige” Johnson, who arrived around 1882. Johnson established a ranch in what became known as Johnson Park, utilizing the mesa’s fertile grasslands to pasture cattle. Johnson Park, located below the south rim of Johnson Mesa, provided the earliest access to the plateau. In time, both the park and the mesa would bear his name, forever linking Johnson to this unique corner of New Mexico.
Around 1887, Marion Bell, a railroad construction worker, played a pivotal role in the mesa’s development. Seeking a more stable and predictable way of life, Bell led a group of fellow workers and miners to the mesa top. Drawn by the promise of fertile land and a fresh start, several families filed for homesteads and began to cultivate the land. These early settlers diversified their agricultural efforts, growing potatoes, oats, grain, vegetables, and hay. As their farms prospered, they also ventured into cattle ranching, capitalizing on the mesa’s abundant grazing lands.
The allure of Johnson Mesa extended to miners from the nearby Blossburg mining camp near Raton. These individuals sought to balance the demands of farming with the opportunities presented by the mining industry. However, the Blossburg Mine was prone to intermittent closures due to labor disputes and other challenges. To bridge the gap between these two worlds, a unique system of communication was established. Carrier pigeons were dispatched from Blossburg to the mesa, carrying urgent messages to the miner-farmers, alerting them when their presence was required back in the Raton Valley.
The Rise and Fall of Bell
The settlement that emerged on Johnson Mesa was named Bell, in honor of Marion Bell, a testament to his role in its founding. In 1891, the town’s growth was further solidified with the establishment of a post office, which operated out of a small general store. This marked a significant step in connecting Bell to the wider world. As word spread of the opportunities available on Johnson Mesa, more people flocked to the area, and at its peak, it was said that a family resided on every 160 acres of land.
The community’s spiritual and social needs were met with the construction of St. John’s Methodist Episcopal Church in 1899. This church became a focal point for the community, hosting regular services and serving as a gathering place for social events. Education was also a priority, and at one point, five schools were scattered across the mesa, ensuring that the children of Bell received an education.
The residents of Johnson Mesa cherished their sense of community and celebrated their shared experiences with annual events. August 14th was a particularly special day, commemorating the dedication of St. John’s Methodist Episcopal Church. The Fourth of July was marked with lively festivities, including horse races, foot races, and rodeos. During the summer months, weekly dances were held at a dance pavilion constructed atop a large hay barn, providing entertainment and fostering a strong sense of camaraderie.
Bell reached its zenith around 1900, boasting a population of 487 residents. However, the challenges of life on the mesa were ever-present. Severe winters often left residents snowbound for weeks, isolating them from the outside world. While the grasslands flourished during the warmer months, water scarcity was a persistent concern. The harsh conditions and long, cold winters proved too much for many farmers, and by 1910, the population had dwindled to 335.
The 1918 flu epidemic further devastated the community, and coupled with the ongoing difficulties of farming, the population plummeted to approximately 215 by 1920. As people continued to leave in search of easier lives, Bell’s decline accelerated. The post office, once a symbol of the town’s connection to the outside world, was closed in 1933, marking a symbolic end to an era.
Bell Today
Today, the town of Bell exists only in fragments. A few deserted farm buildings stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era. St. John Methodist Episcopal Church, though weathered by time, remains a testament to the community’s enduring faith. The cemetery, with its weathered headstones, serves as a poignant reminder of the lives lived and lost on Johnson Mesa.
Despite the decline of the town, the grassland pastures of Johnson Mesa continue to be utilized seasonally for cattle grazing, a practice that echoes the traditions of the early settlers.
Visitors to the area can continue their journey along the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway by heading eastward on Highway 72 to Folsom, a town located 19 miles past the old settlement of Bell. The descent from the Mesa offers breathtaking views, providing a fitting conclusion to a visit to this unique and historically significant corner of New Mexico.
Bell, New Mexico, may be a shadow of its former self, but its story remains etched in the landscape, a testament to the dreams, struggles, and resilience of the pioneers who sought to build a life on top of Johnson Mesa.