Doniphan, Kansas – River Ghost Town – Legends of America
Nestled in the southeastern reaches of Doniphan County, Kansas, lies the spectral remains of Doniphan, a ghost town steeped in history and whispering tales of a bygone era. This once-thriving settlement owes its existence, prosperity, and eventual decline to the sinuous embrace of the Missouri River, a waterway that both nurtured and ultimately claimed its fate.
Early Inhabitants and Exploration
Long before the arrival of European settlers, the land surrounding Doniphan was home to the Kanza Indians. These indigenous people carved out a life along the creeks and rivers, dwelling in distinctive sod-covered structures. In 1724, the French explorer Étienne Veniard De Bourgmont ventured into the region, encountering the Kanza people and documenting their unique way of life. However, in the late 1700s, the Kanza Indians mysteriously relocated, leaving behind traces of their presence and a void that would soon be filled by newcomers.
The Birth of a River Town
The seeds of Doniphan’s establishment were sown in 1852 when Josephus Utt, an agent representing the Kickapoo Indians, established a trading post near the riverbank. This strategic location, renowned among boatmen as an ideal landing point, boasted a confluence of advantages: bustling steamboat traffic, a sturdy rock-bound landing, and an abundance of timber. These factors spurred the formation of the Doniphan Town Company, an organization dedicated to transforming this promising spot into a thriving settlement.
On November 11, 1854, the organizers of the Doniphan Town Company convened in St. Joseph, Missouri, to elect officers and lay the groundwork for their ambitious project. The following spring, James F. Forman, a surveyor, meticulously mapped out the townsite on the bluffs overlooking the river. As compensation for his services, Forman was granted his choice of town lots, upon which he erected the first building – a structure that would soon house the Forman Brothers Store. With the establishment of a post office within the store on March 3, 1855, Forman became the town’s inaugural postmaster. In a nod to military valor, the town and county were named in honor of General Alexander William Doniphan, a distinguished figure in the Mexican-American War.
A Flourishing Frontier Town
The sale of town lots commenced on April 15, 1855, igniting a flurry of activity as settlers and businesses flocked to the nascent community. Some prime lots commanded prices as high as $2,000, reflecting the optimism and potential that permeated the air. Among the early arrivals were Colonel D. M. Johnson, a lawyer; Allen B. Lyon, a dry goods merchant; I.N. Smallwood, a busy wagonmaker; Patrick Laughlin, a tinsmith crafting essential household items; William Beauchamp, a blacksmith; and Samuel Collins, who established the first sawmill. Bowdell & Drury operated the first drugstore, while Dr. George A. Cutler served as the town’s first physician. The Forman Brothers also constructed the Doniphan House, the first hotel, which was managed by Barney O’Driscoll. Two large warehouses, capable of accommodating 15 boats daily, were erected along the wharf, further solidifying Doniphan’s position as a vital transportation hub. The first election was held in October 1855, and religious services were conducted by Father Alderson, a Baptist minister.
Bleeding Kansas and Internal Strife
Despite its rapid growth, Doniphan found itself embroiled in the turbulent times of "Bleeding Kansas," a period of intense conflict over whether the territory would enter the Union as a free state or a slave state. In 1855, a fraternal organization known as the Danites was founded by Mormon members. Patrick Laughlin, the tinsmith, initially joined the society, which advocated for the Free-State cause. However, he soon became disillusioned and publicly revealed the society’s secrets, incurring the wrath of the Danites. Samuel Collins, the sawmill owner, vowed vengeance on Laughlin.
On November 29, Collins confronted Laughlin in the street, attempting to shoot him. When the weapon misfired, Collins resorted to a knife, stabbing Laughlin severely. A friend of Laughlin’s, named Lynch, intervened, shooting Collins. Despite being mortally wounded, Collins struck Lynch with his gun, felling him to the ground. Collins succumbed to his injuries shortly thereafter, while Laughlin and Lynch eventually recovered. This incident marked the end of the Danites in Doniphan.
Growth and Political Influence
In 1856, Thomas J. Key established the Constitutionalist newspaper, serving as a mouthpiece for pro-slavery sentiments. That same summer, Mrs. D. Frank taught the first school in a log cabin.
In 1857, James H. Lane, a prominent Free State political leader, assumed the presidency of the Doniphan Town Company and relocated to the town. He acquired a significant portion of the townsite, known as "Lane’s Addition," and leveraged his influence to bring the government land office to Doniphan, further enhancing its prominence.
That same year, James F. Forman invested $2,500 in a sawmill and established it near the Collins mill. Forman also built a flouring mill near Spring Creek for $1,300. The 40-room St. Charles Hotel was constructed in 1857. Several church organizations were established, and small frame structures began to dot the town, including St. John’s Catholic Church, perched atop the river bluffs. By this time, Doniphan had evolved into an important political and commercial center, boasting a population of approximately 1,000, significantly larger than nearby Atchison, which had only 200 residents.
Decline and Shifting Fortunes
By 1858, pro-slavery sentiments waned in Kansas, leading to the discontinuation of the Constitutionalist newspaper. It was soon replaced by the Crusader of Freedom, a Free State newspaper, which was short-lived.
The removal of the Government Land Office from Doniphan to Kickapoo in 1859 marked the beginning of the town’s decline, fueled by political rivalries. Despite this setback, James Redpath’s Handbook to Kansas Territory, published in 1859, painted an optimistic picture of Doniphan’s future, highlighting its superior landing and townsite, abundant water resources, and plans for a railroad connecting St. Joseph to Topeka.
In 1859, James H. Lane moved to Leavenworth, and Abraham Lincoln, then an aspiring presidential candidate, visited Doniphan in December, recognizing its significance. He addressed the townspeople and spent eight days campaigning in the area. During this year, Forman’s Flouring Mill was destroyed by fire, but a new mill of similar capacity was erected.
In 1860, the St. Charles Hotel burned down, and the onset of the Civil War in 1861 triggered a sharp decline in Doniphan’s population. The Doniphan Post newspaper was launched in 1861 but ceased publication after only one year.
In 1861, Forman’s Flouring Mill was consumed by flames once again, prompting James Forman to retire from the milling business, and the mill was never rebuilt.
Post-Civil War Revival and Setbacks
Doniphan’s population rebounded after the Civil War, and several brick buildings were constructed, including a large warehouse. In 1865, the Catholic Church and residence were destroyed by fire. Two years later, the new St. John the Baptist Catholic Church was built from brick on land donated by Adam Brenner, a prominent figure known for his expansive vineyards and wine production. The brick structure featured a stately bell tower with a fine-toned bell.
In 1867, Adam Brenner built an elevator with a capacity of 40,000 bushels for $16,000. In 1868, the Doniphan House Hotel burned down after changing proprietors multiple times.
The Rise of the Brenner Vineyards
In 1869, George Brenner planted the first five acres of the renowned Belleview vineyard. That same year, he erected a large two-story brick building to accommodate his wine interests. The Brenner vineyards would eventually encompass over 50 acres, employing numerous workers for each harvest and year-round operations. The wineries produced as much as 150,000 gallons in their peak years, shipping their wines to buyers across the nation.
In 1869, Doniphan was incorporated, judges were appointed, and a city council was organized.
The Railroad’s Impact and the Final Decline
The arrival of the railroad in northeast Kansas in 1870 diminished the importance of steamboats, eroding Doniphan’s advantage as a prime steamboat landing. The Atchison & Nebraska Railroad reached Doniphan in January 1871. At that time, Doniphan had 228 families, with a population of 1,020. In May of that year, the Doniphan Democrat newspaper was launched, lasting for about a year.
In 1872, a fire destroyed Adam Brenner’s large grain elevator, its contents, and a significant amount of grain. Despite this setback, the Brenner vineyards continued to thrive, producing wines that rivaled those of Hermann, Missouri, a renowned wine-producing region.
In 1873, James F. Forman built a brick schoolhouse at a cost of $8,000. This two-story structure contained four classrooms and a basement.
By 1882, Doniphan boasted a variety of businesses, including general stores, drug stores, a wagon shop, blacksmith shops, a wholesale liquor house, a meat market, a hotel, a feed stable, millinery and dressmaking establishments, saloons, a printing office, wine cellars, and a shoe shop. The town also had professionals, including physicians, carpenters, stonemasons, a plasterer, a cooper, and a surveyor. There were three church organizations and two secret societies. The Atchison & Nebraska Railroad entered the town from the north, terminating between Sixth and Seventh Streets. The town’s last newspaper, the Doniphan County Weekly News, began publication in March 1882 but lasted less than six months.
By 1887, the railroad no longer entered Doniphan, instead bypassing it to the west and only stopping at Doniphan Station, a few miles northwest of town. This bypass dealt a severe blow to the town’s businesses. The rise of nearby Atchison, Kansas, and St. Joseph, Missouri, as railroad hubs further contributed to Doniphan’s decline, drawing away people and businesses.
In June 1891, the Missouri River flooded, creating a new southern channel. This resulted in the washing away of thousands of yards of railroad tracks, effectively landlocking Doniphan. The steamboats that once docked at its wharves became a relic of the past, replaced by an inland village beside a large pool of water called Doniphan Lake. The railroad rebuilt two miles to the west, sealing Doniphan’s fate.
By 1905, only a handful of businesses remained in Doniphan, including a blacksmith, two general merchandise stores, and a grocery store. By 1910, the population had dwindled to just 134, and in 1911, the Kansas City Star described the town as "desolate and almost deserted." The Brenner family winemaking enterprises ceased operations in 1912.
Doniphan Today
The town persisted for several decades, but its post office closed in August 1943, and its Rural High School Number 10 closed in 1947. In 1949, Doniphan still had a grocery store and a gas station but only about 50 residents. The Army Corps of Engineers drained Doniphan Lake in the 1950s.
Today, Doniphan stands as a mere shadow of its former self, with only a few dilapidated buildings remaining. However, its Catholic Church has been restored and is used for special masses. The Brenner Vineyards Historic District, listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2005, encompasses 4.9 acres and includes St. John’s Catholic Church, a two-story winery building, a barn, corncrib, pump-house, smokehouse, and the ruins of Adam Brenner’s house and winery. A still-utilized cemetery lies nearby. A few residents continue to call the area home.
To reach Doniphan from Atchison, take River Front Road north from Riverfront Park and follow it to Mineral Point Road. The historic district is located at Mineral Point and 95th Roads.
Doniphan, Kansas, a river ghost town, stands as a poignant reminder of the ebb and flow of fortune, the transformative power of transportation, and the enduring spirit of those who once called it home.