Buffalo Gap, South Dakota – Rowdy Cow Town
Nestled on the cusp of the Black Hills in Custer County, South Dakota, lies Buffalo Gap, a town steeped in the rugged history of the American West. What began as a humble stage stop during the frenzied Black Hills Gold Rush of the mid-1870s blossomed into a bustling hub for cattle shipping, only to gradually fade into a semi-ghost town, whispering tales of a bygone era. Today, Buffalo Gap offers a captivating glimpse into the past, inviting visitors to explore its historic remnants and imagine life in a rowdy cow town.
Origins as a Stage Stop
The story of Buffalo Gap begins in 1875-76 when the Northwestern Stage Company established a stop along the Sidney-Deadwood Trail. The location was strategically chosen near a natural gap in the landscape, a haven where buffalo herds once sought shelter. This gap lent its name to the burgeoning settlement.
Recognizing its potential as a crucial junction for various trails, Buffalo Gap quickly evolved into an important way station and supply depot. George Boland, the station manager and postmaster responsible for distributing mail throughout the Black Hills, capitalized on the town’s strategic location. He built a roadhouse, providing weary travelers and freighters with much-needed food and lodging.
The Railroad Era and a Booming Cattle Town
As the gold rush subsided and the Black Hills opened to settlement in 1876, Buffalo Gap continued to grow. The arrival of the Fremont, Elkhorn, and Missouri Valley Railroad in 1885 marked a turning point, signaling the decline of stage lines and ushering in a new era of transportation. A railroad station was constructed along Beaver Creek, and the town of Buffalo Gap was officially platted that same year.
The railroad transformed Buffalo Gap into a vital link connecting travelers to wagon roads leading to the Black Hills and Hot Springs. More significantly, it revolutionized the cattle industry by eliminating the arduous, long-distance cattle drives that had characterized earlier years.
With the rise of large cattle ranches in the Black Hills and Cheyenne River ranges, Buffalo Gap experienced a remarkable boom, becoming one of the busiest cattle shipping points in the nation. The town’s population swelled to approximately 1,200 residents, supporting a thriving commercial district with around 140 businesses.
Buffalo Gap boasted an impressive array of establishments, including 17 hotels and restaurants catering to travelers and locals alike. Four general stores provided essential supplies, while a hardware store, clothing store, and furniture store met the diverse needs of the community. Residents could also find solace and remedies at two drug stores, manage their finances at the local bank, and even indulge in the services of four Chinese laundries. And, of course, no self-respecting cow town would be complete without a generous offering of saloons – Buffalo Gap had 23 of them.
Taming the Wild West: The Legend of Arch Wilder Riordan
During its heyday, Buffalo Gap attracted a diverse mix of people, including transients, cowboys, and even outlaws. The town’s burgeoning reputation for lawlessness prompted concerned businessmen to take action. Believing the local sheriff was insufficient to maintain order, they decided to hire a town marshal.
Their choice fell upon Arch Wilder Riordan, a former cattle drover who had settled in Buffalo Gap and established a combination drugstore and saloon. Standing tall at six feet and weighing around 240 pounds, Riordan possessed an easygoing demeanor and commanded respect within the community. He accepted the position, earning a salary of $75 per month.
Riordan proved to be an effective lawman, quickly gaining the ire of the town’s criminal element. Undeterred, they hired a gunfighter named Charlie Fugit from Wyoming to eliminate their problem. Their plan was to provoke a fight in one of the saloons, where Fugit would ambush and kill Riordan.
However, when Riordan arrived at the scene, Fugit was met with an unexpected surprise. The town marshal was not only a formidable presence but also a faster and deadlier shot. Charlie Fugit did not survive the encounter.
Arch Wilder Riordan continued to serve as town marshal, facing numerous dangerous situations with unwavering resolve. He never resorted to using his firearm without due provocation, earning a reputation for fairness and justice. In later years, he was appointed a U.S. Marshal, further solidifying his legacy as a legendary figure in the Wild West.
Decline and Resilience
The prosperity of Buffalo Gap was not destined to last. By 1885, beef prices began to decline, and the open range suffered from overgrazing. A scorching summer and severe drought in 1886 exacerbated the situation, leading to devastating brush fires that consumed vast stretches of rangeland and depleted water sources.
The final blow came with the exceptionally harsh winter of 1886-87, known as the "Great Die-Up." Blizzards swept across the West, and temperatures plummeted to as low as 30 degrees below zero in some areas. The catastrophic winter decimated cattle herds, reducing their numbers by as much as 75% in the northern regions.
In the aftermath of the "Great Die-Up," most of the large cattle outfits abandoned the area, transforming cattle raising into a localized industry. Homesteaders gradually took over much of the land, attempting to cultivate the soil. However, recurring drought years forced many to move on, leaving Buffalo Gap with a dwindling population.
By the early 1890s, Buffalo Gap’s population had significantly declined, and its streets became noticeably quieter. A devastating fire in 1895 destroyed much of the central business district, and most of the buildings and businesses were never rebuilt. By 1910, the town’s population had plummeted to a mere 280 residents.
Despite the hardships, the resilient community of Buffalo Gap persevered. The town auditorium, fairgrounds, community building, and fraternal lodge halls continued to serve as focal points for various community activities, hosting fairs, dances, and traveling shows.
The Buffalo Gap Fair, held annually, was one of the area’s most prominent events for many years. It showcased agricultural exhibits, a rodeo, a stock show, and crop displays, drawing farmers, ranchers, and tourists from far and wide. The fair also provided an opportunity for cultural exchange, as Lakota Indians from the Pine Ridge Reservation participated in rodeo contests and camped at the edge of town. The "Tepee-Setting Race," a popular event featuring Lakota women competing to erect their tipis, captivated audiences and highlighted the rich cultural heritage of the region.
Modern Times
As automobiles became more prevalent and machinery replaced manual labor on farms and ranches, Buffalo Gap continued to decline. The construction of a state highway through Hot Springs and Custer State Park further diverted traffic away from the town. The Great Depression and the Dust Bowl of the 1930s delivered additional blows, reducing the number of people living in the area.
In 1938, the railroad discontinued its spur line to Hot Springs, and cattle shipping from Buffalo Gap ceased around 1953. By 1960, most of the town’s businesses had closed permanently. The old Citizens Bank building, once a branch of the First Western Bank, eventually shut its doors as well.
Today, Buffalo Gap’s main business is the grain elevator and feed store, serving the needs of local farmers and ranchers. The church continues to hold services, providing spiritual guidance to the community, and the post office remains open, connecting residents to the outside world.
In recognition of its historical significance, the Buffalo Gap Historic Commercial District was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1995. The district encompasses 25 contributing buildings, preserving the architectural heritage of the town.
As of today, Buffalo Gap is home to approximately 125 people. The town is located on State Highway 79 between Hermosa and Hot Springs. The highway intersects with County Road 656, an "off the beaten path" that travelers can take into the Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, Badlands National Park, and the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation.
Buffalo Gap, South Dakota, may be a shadow of its former self, but its rich history and resilient spirit continue to captivate visitors. Exploring this semi-ghost town offers a unique opportunity to step back in time and imagine the days when Buffalo Gap was a rowdy cow town, a vital link in the American West.