Avilla, Missouri – Capitol 66 Ghost Town – Legends of America
Nestled in the southwestern corner of Missouri, Avilla stands as a poignant reminder of a bygone era. Once a bustling hub along the iconic Route 66, this small town now whispers tales of prosperity, conflict, and eventual decline. Today, with a population hovering around 125, Avilla serves as a captivating glimpse into the heart of America’s past, a place where history lingers in the weathered facades and quiet streets.
Early Beginnings and Agricultural Roots
Avilla’s story begins in the 1830s and 1840s, when settlers, drawn by the promise of fertile land and abundant streams, began to populate the area. The region’s rich soil proved ideal for agriculture, laying the foundation for a thriving farming community. As families established themselves, the need for education grew, leading to the construction of the first schoolhouse in the 1840s. This humble log cabin, known as the White Oak School, served as a beacon of learning for the children of the early settlers.
The town of Avilla was officially founded in 1856 and meticulously platted, marking a significant step in its development. In July 1858, Andrew L. Love and David S. Holman, two visionary figures, laid out six blocks around a central public square, envisioning a vibrant community. Love assumed the role of the first Justice of the Peace, while Holman became the first merchant and postmaster, establishing the town’s first post office in 1860. In a nod to their roots, the settlement was named after Avilla, Indiana.
The Civil War Era: A Town Divided
As the nation plunged into the turmoil of the Civil War in 1861, Avilla, with its population of around 100, found itself caught in the crossfire of conflicting loyalties. Like many Missouri settlements, the town was initially divided over the issue of secession. While some residents were slave owners, the town leaders and the majority of the population remained steadfastly loyal to the Union cause and President Abraham Lincoln.
In the face of growing unrest, Dr. Jaquillian M. Stemmons, a prominent early settler and staunch Unionist, took decisive action. He organized a company of local men and neighbors, forming the "Avilla Home Guard" to protect their homes and families from marauding bands of bushwhackers. Despite owning slaves himself, Stemmons kept them for their safety during the war, demonstrating his commitment to their well-being.
Avilla’s unwavering support for the Union stood in stark contrast to neighboring Sarcoxie, where the first Confederate flag was proudly raised. The rebel "Stars & Bars" also flew over nearby Carthage, following an early Confederate victory at the Battle of Carthage on July 5, 1861. In early 1862, Stemmons and the Home Guard received intelligence about a planned attack on Avilla by secessionists. General James G. Blunt at Fort Scott, Kansas, pledged reinforcements to bolster the town’s defenses.
However, before the Kansas soldiers could arrive, a group of over 100 pro-Confederate guerrillas, believed to have been led by the infamous "Bloody Bill" Anderson, launched a surprise attack on Avilla on the evening of March 8, 1862. Their primary target was Dr. Stemmons’ home, where a number of militiamen were gathered for a meeting.
The guerrillas surrounded the two-story log building and unleashed a barrage of gunfire. The Home Guard valiantly returned fire, but the rebels pressed their attack, eventually setting the building ablaze. In the ensuing chaos, Dr. J.M. Stemmons and another militiaman, Lathan Duncan, were killed. Several others were wounded or burned, and two were taken prisoner. The remaining militiamen, heavily outnumbered, withdrew to the north edge of Avilla and braced for another assault, but it never came.
A Town Forged in Fire
The rebel attack on the Stemmons home, intended to terrorize and intimidate the Unionists in Avilla, had the opposite effect. The fallen and injured were hailed as heroes, and the town’s militia became even more determined to resist and defend their community. Every able-bodied resident took up arms, and the Union flag continued to fly defiantly in the town center park, guarded by the townsmen. Schoolhouses were closed, and many families evacuated their women and children to safer areas in other states.
Although the Union Army gained control of Missouri in 1862, the area around Avilla remained plagued by bushwhackers and occasional Confederate raids. The Avilla Home Guard, reinforced by Union soldiers of the US Cavalry, extended its patrols throughout eastern Jasper and western Lawrence Counties, protecting the town and countryside in several local skirmishes. The "pioneer marksmen" of Avilla earned a reputation for their deadly accuracy, striking fear into the hearts of the bushwhackers.
As a grim warning to would-be raiders, the skeleton of a rebel with a bullet hole in the skull was hung from the "Death Tree" in Avilla, where it remained for over a year.
Camp Avilla: A Sanctuary in Wartime
By 1863, a Union Army garrison was stationed in Avilla under Major Morgan’s command. Tents were erected, and storehouses, barns, and homes were converted into temporary Army barracks and headquarters, housing hundreds of soldiers and refugees. The town became known informally as "Camp Avilla," providing a formidable defense throughout the rest of the war and serving as a sanctuary for refugees from nearby burned-out towns like Carthage.
Reconstruction and Rebirth
When the Civil War finally ended in 1865, Avilla experienced a period of rapid growth during the Reconstruction Era. With much of Jasper County in ruins, merchandise and construction materials were transported by wagon train from Sedalia, Missouri, the closest railroad shipping point to Avilla. From here, supplies were distributed to area communities, and even farmers from Kansas traveled to Avilla for seed, building materials, and provisions.
Captain Thomas Jefferson Stemmons, a Union commander and son of the late Dr. J.M. Stemmons, returned home to Avilla and partnered with D. B. Rives to establish a mercantile, the first new business after the Civil War. In 1868, The Avilla House hotel was built, and by the following decade, the town boasted two general stores, two grocery stores, a doctor’s office, a "notion" store, two boot & shoe stores, a livery & feed stable, three churches, and a drug store.
A new school was built in the 1880s that served grades 1-12. At that time, the population had increased to about 500 people. However, when the railroad came through the area, it was not built through Avilla, so its growth was stunted.
Route 66 and the Roaring Twenties
Over the years, Avilla’s population gradually declined. Decades later, the Old Carthage Road through Avilla was paved and became Route 66 in 1926. By this time, the town had about 165 residents, a hardware store and lumber yard, a barbershop and beauty salon, a bank, a cafe, and several gasoline stations and garages.
The Bank of Avilla Robbery
In May 1932, Avilla made headlines when the Bank of Avilla was robbed by members of the notorious "Irish O’Malley Gang." The group, comprised of Depression-era outlaws who had merged with another group known as the "Ozark Mountain Boys," successfully robbed the bank at gunpoint and kidnapped the cashier, Ivy E. Russell.
After the robbery, the gang drove to nearby Carthage, where they released Russell by the roadside. Following a series of bank and store robberies and murders throughout the Midwest, the members of the O’Malley Gang were either captured or killed. One of the criminals was sentenced to a 75-year prison term for the Avilla bank robbery.
Ivy E. Russell continued to operate the Bank of Avilla until it closed its doors in 1944. Today, the old bank building still stands and serves as the town’s post office.
Decline and Quietude
After World War II, Avilla continued to lose population as people migrated to larger cities for better employment opportunities. However, a larger school building was established, and many of the previous smaller schools were consolidated to form the Avilla R-13 School District, which still operates today. High school students were bussed to other nearby towns.
In the 1960s, US Route 66 was bypassed by I-44, leading to the closure or relocation of many remaining businesses by the 1970s. In 1971, a devastating fire at the Avilla lumberyard destroyed several buildings, including most of the lumber companies, the Boy Scout Meeting Hall, and some private residences. While the lumberyard was later rebuilt, many of the town’s shops were sold, resold, and eventually deserted by the late 1970s.
Today, Avilla has settled into a quiet way of life, supported primarily by area farmers. Route 66 continues westward to Carthage, passing through the alleged sites of two old towns—Forest Mills and Maxville—but no visible remains of these settlements exist.
Red Oak II: A Nostalgic Detour
Just before Carthage, travelers have the opportunity to visit Red Oak II, a "ghost town" constructed from numerous area buildings, some of which once stood on Route 66. To reach Red Oak II, follow Missouri Highway 96/Route 66 west for 7.9 miles to County Road 120, then one mile north to Kafir Road, and turn left (west) for 0.3 miles to the site.
Avilla, Missouri, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of small-town America, a place where history whispers from every corner, inviting visitors to step back in time and experience the charm of a bygone era.