History Along the Cimarron River
The Cimarron River, a sinuous waterway stretching nearly 700 miles, weaves a compelling narrative through the heart of the American Southwest and Great Plains. From its humble beginnings in the highlands of northeastern New Mexico to its confluence with the Arkansas River in Oklahoma, the Cimarron has witnessed centuries of exploration, settlement, and transformation. This river, often as capricious as the landscapes it traverses, holds within its currents the echoes of Native American tribes, intrepid explorers, rugged traders, and the relentless march of westward expansion.
A River’s Course: From New Mexico to Oklahoma
The Cimarron River’s journey begins at Johnson Mesa, a prominent plateau west of Folsom, New Mexico. From this high-altitude origin, the river embarks on a circuitous route, carving its way through New Mexico, Oklahoma, Colorado, and Kansas. Entering the Oklahoma Panhandle near Kenton, the river veers northward, briefly touching the southeastern corner of Colorado before meandering into southwestern Kansas. In this arid region, the riverbed often lies dry, a testament to the region’s limited rainfall. Only during the spring thaw or occasional flash floods does the riverbed come alive with flowing water.
Within Kansas, the Cimarron splits into two primary branches: the North Fork and the South Fork. The North Fork winds its way through Morton County, touches the southeastern corner of Stanton County, and then flows into Grant County. The South Fork, meanwhile, crosses Morton County, grazes the northwest corner of Stevens County, and also enters Grant County, where it eventually merges with the North Fork. United, the Cimarron River continues its southeastern course through Seward County and the southwestern edge of Meade County before re-entering Oklahoma.
The river’s complex path takes another turn a few miles south of the Kansas-Oklahoma border. It flows east for approximately 25 miles before crossing back into Kansas, this time in Clark County. It then cuts across the southeastern corner of Clark County and exits Kansas from the southwest corner of Comanche County. Once back in Oklahoma, the Cimarron transforms from an intermittent stream into a more consistent river, eventually emptying into the Arkansas River at the Keystone Reservoir, upstream from Tulsa.
Etymology and Early Encounters
The name "Cimarron" originates from the early Spanish term "Río de los Carneros Cimarrón," which translates to "River of the Wild Sheep." This name likely reflects the presence of bighorn sheep or other wild ungulates that frequented the river’s banks in the early days of Spanish exploration.
Early American explorers, drawn to the river’s reddish hue caused by the red clay along its banks, often referred to it as the "Red Fork of the Arkansas River." However, the Cimarron River was frequently confused with the Salt Fork Arkansas River by early mapmakers and explorers, adding to the geographical uncertainties of the time.
One of the earliest documented encounters with the Cimarron River was by Zebulon Pike in 1807. Pike, a U.S. Army officer and explorer, referred to the river as the "Grand Saline" or "Newsewtonga" in his journals, reflecting the diverse names and perceptions of this waterway during the early 19th century.
The Cimarron Route of the Santa Fe Trail
The Cimarron River played a pivotal role in the history of the Santa Fe Trail, a vital trade route connecting the American Midwest with the Southwest. A branch of the Santa Fe Trail, known as the Cimarron Route, Cimarron Cutoff, or Middle Crossing, traversed the arid plains between Dodge City, Kansas, and Fort Union, New Mexico. This route provided a more direct path to Santa Fe, but it came with significant challenges.
The Cimarron Route was notorious for its harsh conditions. Travelers faced long stretches of dry terrain with scarce water sources, limited grazing for livestock, and a scarcity of wildlife for sustenance. Moreover, the route was fraught with the danger of attacks by Native American tribes, particularly the Comanche, who fiercely defended their territory.
The dangers of the Cimarron Route were tragically underscored in 1831 when Jedediah Smith, a renowned hunter, trapper, and explorer, was killed by Comanche Indians along the Santa Fe Trail near the Cimarron River. Smith’s body was never recovered, serving as a stark reminder of the perils faced by those who ventured into this untamed region.
Historical Sites Along the Cimarron
The Cimarron River corridor is dotted with historical sites that bear witness to its rich past. Wagon Bed Springs in Grant County, Kansas, provided a crucial water source for travelers along the Santa Fe Trail. Point of Rocks in Morton County served as a strategic lookout point for both Native Americans and traders, offering panoramic views of the surrounding plains. The Cimarron National Grassland, spanning Morton and Stevens Counties in Kansas, preserves a vast expanse of prairie landscape, offering visitors a glimpse into the region’s natural heritage and a chance to follow a 23-mile stretch of the old Santa Fe Trail.
In Oklahoma, Cold Spring and Autograph Rock, located north of Boise City, stand as reminders of the area’s past. Camp Nichols, a fort established by Kit Carson in 1865, once stood along the river northwest of Wheeless. The river also skirts the southern edge of Black Mesa, the highest point in Oklahoma.
As the river enters New Mexico, it becomes known as the Dry Cimarron River, a designation that distinguishes it from the wetter Cimarron River further west. While not entirely dry, the Dry Cimarron River often sees its water disappear beneath the sandy riverbed. The Dry Cimarron National Scenic Byway follows the river’s course, winding past the Capulin Volcano National Monument to Folsom and Johnson Mesa, offering stunning views of the volcanic landscape and the surrounding plains.
A River of History and Transformation
The Cimarron River, with its intricate course and fluctuating flows, has been a silent witness to the unfolding drama of the American West. From its role as a vital trade route to its encounters with explorers, Native American tribes, and settlers, the Cimarron River has left an indelible mark on the landscape and the history of the region. Today, the river continues to flow, carrying with it the echoes of the past and the promise of a future shaped by the forces of nature and human endeavor.