The Ghosts of Lake Mead
Lake Mead, a shimmering expanse of blue nestled amidst the rugged Nevada and Arizona landscape, is more than just a recreational paradise. It’s a place where history whispers from beneath the waves, where echoes of the past mingle with the laughter of present-day visitors. Designated as America’s first National Recreation Area, Lake Mead National Recreation Area sprawls across 1.5 million acres, a tapestry woven from towering mountains, deep canyons, sprawling valleys, and two immense lakes: Lake Mead in Nevada and Lake Mohave in Arizona. Here, visitors immerse themselves in a world of aquatic adventures, land-based explorations, and the serene beauty of the American Southwest.
The story of Lake Mead is inextricably linked to the Hoover Dam, a colossal structure of concrete that stands as a testament to human ingenuity. In 1928, President Calvin Coolidge authorized the construction of the dam, a monumental undertaking designed to harness the power of the Colorado River and provide electricity and water to the burgeoning desert cities. Towering 70 stories high and stretching 660 feet thick, the dam’s robust engineering is said to ensure its survival beyond the lifespan of the very reservoir it created. The dam’s construction was a Herculean effort, completed in just five years by a workforce of 5,000 dedicated individuals.
The creation of the Hoover Dam also led to the formation of Lake Mead and Lake Mohave, carving out 140 miles of shoreline. Initially christened the Boulder Dam Recreation Area in 1936, Lake Mead quickly became a hub for recreation and relaxation. For years, Lake Mead proudly held the title of the largest reservoir in the United States when at full capacity. However, the last time Lake Mead reached its full potential was in 1983. The lake flirted with its "full pool" mark in 2000, reaching an elevation of 1,214 feet, just shy of its maximum capacity of 1,250 feet. Unfortunately, escalating water demands and prolonged drought conditions have led many scientists to believe that Lake Mead may never again reach its full capacity. The fluctuating water levels have forced the relocation or closure of several recreational facilities.
Lake Mead has become a crucible of "ghosts," not the spectral apparitions of folklore, but the remnants of submerged towns, lost civilizations, and abandoned dreams.
Pueblo Grande – The Lost City
Long before the Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River, the Moapa Valley flourished with life. Around 300 A.D., the Basketmaker people, skilled artisans and resourceful inhabitants, settled here, though archaeological evidence suggests human presence as far back as 8000 BC. Later, the Ancient Puebloans, also known as the Anasazi, migrated to the region, establishing a thriving community that persisted until around 1150 A.D.
These indigenous peoples thrived in the fertile Moapa Valley, developing a sophisticated culture that mirrored the well-known Puebloan civilizations of the Four Corners region, encompassing Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona. Their architectural prowess is evident in the construction of pueblos, complex structures comprised of interconnected rooms, ranging from 20 to 100 in number. This settlement, now known as Pueblo Grande de Nevada, is often referred to as the "Lost City," a testament to its abandonment centuries ago.
Jedediah Smith, a famed explorer, stumbled upon artifacts from this lost civilization in 1827. Years later, the ruins attracted more attention, but it was not until residents of Overton, Nevada, chanced upon the site that serious archaeological interest was piqued. In 1924, archaeologists began excavating the site, unearthing walls, tools, weapons, food remnants, and even skeletal remains.
The impending construction of the Hoover Dam and the subsequent flooding of the valley spurred a race against time to salvage as much information as possible from the doomed sites. The Lost City Museum, established by the National Park Service in 1935, showcases the artifacts recovered from Pueblo Grande de Nevada, offering a glimpse into the lives of its ancient inhabitants.
Today, the most developed sections of the pueblo lie partially submerged beneath the Overton arm of Lake Mead, approximately five miles south of Overton. In recognition of its historical significance, the site was added to the National Register of Historic Places in October 1982.
St. Thomas Ghost Town
As the waters of Lake Mead began to rise, the town of St. Thomas, Nevada, faced its own watery demise. Founded in 1865 by Mormon settlers who believed they were in Utah, the town was nestled in the fertile valley formed by the Muddy and Virgin Rivers. However, their peaceful existence was disrupted when Nevada state authorities demanded five years of back taxes. Refusing to comply, the Mormons abandoned St. Thomas, setting fire to their homes, except for one family.
In the 1880s, new settlers arrived, drawn to the rich soil and the promise of agricultural prosperity. St. Thomas was reborn, eventually reaching a peak population of around 500 residents.
The authorization of the Hoover Dam in 1928 marked the beginning of the end for St. Thomas. The residents were compensated for their properties and given seven years to relocate before the town was submerged, disappearing beneath 70 feet of water.
For decades, St. Thomas remained hidden beneath the surface of Lake Mead. However, recent droughts have caused the lake’s water levels to recede, revealing the ghost town’s skeletal remains. Today, the schoolhouse steps and a crumbling chimney stand as poignant reminders of a once-vibrant community. St. Thomas has become a unique tourist attraction, and occasionally, descendants of former residents gather here to reconnect with their heritage.
The plight of Lake Mead is primarily attributed to the overallocation of water from the Colorado River. The amount of water being drawn out exceeds the inflow, with significant portions allocated to users in California, Arizona, and Las Vegas, Nevada.
This imbalance has resulted in a stark "bathtub ring," a white mineral deposit that stretches 150 feet above the current waterline, a visible manifestation of the lake’s decline. The decaying infrastructure throughout the Lake Mead National Recreation Area serves as a constant reminder of the challenges facing this vital resource.
Mead Lodge
The fluctuating water levels have also created "ghosts" in the form of once-thriving recreational facilities. Mead Lodge, initially named Hualapai Lodge in 1941, was the first hotel on Lake Mead and a pioneering tourist destination within the park. Its location along Boulder Beach was strategically chosen due to its proximity to the sandy beach, boat launch, and the burgeoning city of Las Vegas. The lodge featured Spanish-style architectural elements, and each guest room was equipped with heating and cooling.
The onset of World War II brought a surge in tourism, and Mead Lodge became a popular gathering spot for locals. As alcohol sales were prohibited in Boulder City, due to a ban established during Prohibition, the lodge’s bar became the only place in the area to enjoy a drink and a dance.
In 1945, the facility was renamed Lake Mead Lodge to better reflect its lakeside location. In 1948, new management added a large swimming pool, a wading pool, and a fourth lodge building to accommodate the increasing number of visitors.
The tourism boom of the 1950s and 1960s saw the rise of new hotels and tourist facilities throughout Southern Nevada. Lake Mead continued to attract visitors, with over 2,000,000 people flocking to Boulder Beach annually in the 1950s. The National Park System invested in upgrading the recreation area, adding new boat ramps, campgrounds, picnic areas, ranger stations, visitor centers, and employee housing.
In 1961, new management constructed the world’s largest floating restaurant at the Lake Mead Marina. This unique venue became a favorite haunt for Las Vegas celebrities like Don Rickles, Andy Williams, and Harry Belafonte, who frequently chartered boats from the marina.
In the 1970s, the lodge underwent minor renovations, with the addition of gazebos, rope fences, lamp posts, and palm trees.
However, as high-quality tourist accommodations became increasingly available in nearby Henderson, Las Vegas, and Boulder City, Lake Mead Lodge’s popularity began to wane in the 1980s. The falling water levels further exacerbated the decline, creating a conspicuous "bathtub ring" that detracted from the lodge’s appeal.
In 2008, the Lake Mead Marina was relocated three miles south, further isolating the lodge. After 65 years of serving tourists, Lake Mead Lodge closed its doors in 2009.
The lodge was briefly used to house park personnel but was eventually abandoned. The National Park Service considered adding the lodge to the National Register of Historic Places, but studies revealed that the building did not meet current construction, safety, and accessibility codes and had suffered from years of deferred maintenance. In 2012, the decision was made to demolish the buildings and restore the grounds to their natural desert state. As of this writing, the building stands, decaying in the desert sun, surrounded by an overgrown and neglected landscape.
Echo Bay
In 1962, a 54-room hotel and restaurant were built on a hill overlooking the Overton Arm’s west side at Echo Bay. The Echo Bay Resort featured private balconies or patios, many of which offered stunning lake views. The resort also included the Tail O’ The Whale restaurant and cocktail lounge, adorned with nautical decor and large windows that framed the lake. The hotel boasted a 2,500-square-foot conference room on the second floor.
The marina offered a wide range of services, including 365 boat slips, a fuel dock, lake and land-based fuel, dry boat storage, and minor boat repair. Boat rentals were also available, including houseboats up to 56 feet long. The full-service marina was a thriving resort destination, with a long waiting list for boat slips. At times, boats lined up for a mile, waiting to launch at the short ramp.
The boat ramp was conveniently located next to the hotel, and a floating walkway provided easy access to the marina. A concrete walkway led directly to the lake, where visitors could swim or float on inner tubes and rafts. The campground also offered a calm and clear swimming area, with visibility reaching 20 or 30 feet. The area was renowned as a fisherman’s paradise, with easy access to fishing from the banks. An airstrip further enhanced the site’s accessibility.
Below the hotel, houseboats were often anchored close together, their occupants enjoying the lake’s amenities and the restaurant’s offerings. Celebrities such as Ann Margaret and Pierre Omidyar, the founder of eBay, were known to frequent Echo Bay. The name of the online auction marketplace is even said to have been inspired by Echo Bay. Omidyar initially wanted to name the website Echo Bay, but when the domain name was already taken, he opted for eBay instead.
However, as the lake receded, the water’s edge moved farther and farther away from the hotel and campground. The floating walkway to the marina was relocated three times, each time further downhill to keep pace with the retreating waterline. The Park Service extended the boat ramp, pouring more concrete until it reached one-third of a mile in length. The marina was also pushed farther out into the lake, requiring constant re-engineering of the facilities.
In 2011, the management company introduced floatels at the Echo Bay Marina in a last-ditch effort to boost visitor numbers and revenue. These 67-foot floatels were securely docked, climate-controlled, and featured a spacious living area, a fully equipped kitchen, four bedrooms and a sleeper sofa, a TV/DVD player, an outdoor barbecue grill, and a top-level sun deck with a wet bar and hot tub.
Despite these efforts, declining reservations and visitor numbers led to the closure of the marina, restaurant, and hotel in February 2013.
The abandoned hotel/restaurant building and marina fell victim to vandalism. The marina facilities were later removed, and the Park Service plowed a mile-long dirt road from the hotel to provide access to the remaining lake. Today, the one-third-mile boat ramp ends in a sandy wash, far from the present lakeshore. The old hotel stands deteriorating in the desert, and the airstrip is riddled with cracks. There are no active airport operations, and cattle occasionally roam along the strip.
Echo Bay still offers some services, including an RV park, trailer village, convenience store, boat ramp, and land-based fuel station.
Other changes over the years include the relocation of the Las Vegas Bay Marina in 2002. The Overton Marina closed in 2010, and several other boat launch ramps were also shuttered.
Lower Water Levels
The future of Lake Mead remains uncertain. Growing demand, persistent drought, and climate variability have created an annual water deficit of nearly one million acre-feet in the Colorado River system. Both Lake Powell and Lake Mead reservoirs are half-empty, and some scientists predict that they may never refill.
In January 2021, the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation released a study showing that Lake Mead’s water level is being closely monitored, as it is approaching a threshold that could trigger a federally declared water shortage. The study placed the water level at 1,085 feet. A shortage condition could be declared if Lake Mead’s elevation is projected to fall below 1,075 feet.
Under a shortage condition, water allotments to Arizona would be reduced by 320,000 acre-feet, Nevada by 13,000 acre-feet, and Mexico by 50,000 acre-feet. Arizona, Nevada, and Mexico agreed to these cuts under a drought contingency plan signed in 2019. Previous stress test models indicated a 32% chance that Lake Mead would fall below 1,075 feet by 2022 and a 77% chance by 2025, according to the Associated Press. Arizona, being one of the first states to face cutbacks, could lose approximately half of its Colorado River water if a shortage is declared.
The population’s dependence on the Hoover Dam for electricity is another significant concern. Over the past decades, the lower lake levels required to generate electricity have necessitated the retrofitting of the dam with wide-head turbines designed to operate efficiently at lower levels. However, if water levels continue to decline, Hoover Dam will cease generating electricity when the water level drops below 950 feet.
Today, Colorado River users are hoping that regional water conservation efforts will prove successful and leave enough unused supplies in the lake to prevent a shortage declaration, but the outcome remains to be seen.
Beyond the "ghosts" left behind by the receding water levels, are there other spectral entities that haunt the lake? Some believe there are.
Real Ghosts at Lake Mead
Some of the oldest ghosts are said to be those of the Native Americans who once inhabited the Colorado River region. According to local lore, they still roam the land, fiercely protecting it and harboring resentment over the destruction of their culture and the loss of their ancestral lands. Campers have reported hearing mournful wailing voices carried on the desert winds.
The construction of Boulder Dam also created its own share of ghosts. During the Depression era, the dam project provided employment for thousands of men, but it was a hazardous undertaking. Approximately 96 men lost their lives during the dam’s construction, a figure that only includes those who died on-site. The number does not account for those who later succumbed to their injuries at a hospital or elsewhere. Furthermore, the figure only includes "industrial accidents," excluding deaths caused by heat or other job-related issues. It is plausible that some of these men continue to haunt the area. Visitors have reported paranormal activity in and around the dam. Those who have toured the Dam’s Power Plant have heard footsteps echoing through the long, empty corridors. Others claim to have seen apparitions crying out or weeping, and some have heard disembodied voices. One of these ghosts is said to be a man dressed in old-fashioned work clothes who vanishes instantly when approached.
In March 2017, Outside magazine declared Lake Mead the deadliest park in America. Analyzing records from January 2006 to September 2016, the magazine determined that Lake Mead had recorded more deaths than any other National Park. During that period, Lake Mead experienced more than 1,000 deaths, excluding suicides. Drowning was the leading cause of death, followed by motor vehicle crashes and falls. The park also had the highest number of homicides among all national parks. Some of these souls may continue to haunt the park.
Despite the challenges posed by lower water levels, Lake Mead remains a popular destination for families and travelers who come to enjoy vacations, recreation, and sightseeing.
