Mogollon, New Mexico – Surviving All Odds
Nestled approximately 12 miles northeast of Glenwood, New Mexico, a state celebrated as the "Land of Enchantment," lies Mogollon, New Mexico, a premier ghost town that beckons history enthusiasts and curious travelers alike. This evocative locale, pronounced "muggy-YOHN" by the locals, stands as a testament to the resilience of the human spirit, a place where fortunes were made and lost, where survival was a daily struggle against the elements and human adversaries. Filled with historic buildings of the once rich mining camp that made millions during its heydays, Mogollon, New Mexico survived numerous floods and fires but still hangs on today despite its isolated location.
The story of Mogollon, New Mexico begins with James Cooney, a soldier stationed at Fort Bayard, a military outpost some 80 miles to the southeast. In 1870, while scouting for the 8th U.S. Cavalry in the rugged terrain of Mineral Creek Canyon, Cooney stumbled upon a significant discovery: rich deposits of gold and silver. Unlike many prospectors driven by immediate greed, Cooney kept his find a secret, bound by his military obligations to the U.S. Army. Unable to fully exploit his discovery until his enlistment was complete, he returned to his duties, the promise of riches tucked away in his mind.
In 1876, upon his discharge from the Army, Cooney returned to the area, eager to stake his claim. He filed several claims, marking the beginning of what he hoped would be a prosperous venture. He partnered with Harry McAllister. However, their initial efforts were met with resistance. The pair were soon driven out of the region by hostile Apache warriors who fiercely defended their ancestral lands. Undeterred by this setback, Cooney and McAllister returned two years later, determined to extract the valuable minerals hidden beneath the surface. They began to work the rich veins in earnest. Word of their discoveries spread rapidly, igniting a surge of prospectors eager to stake their own claims and find their fortunes in the remote canyons.
The burgeoning mining camp faced a persistent threat from the indigenous population who viewed the influx of settlers as an encroachment on their territory. In April 1880, a band of Chiricahua Apache, led by the renowned Chief Victorio, launched a raid on the area, including Cooney’s claim. This devastating attack resulted in the deaths of three prospectors, including the unfortunate James C. Cooney, whose initial discovery had sparked the mining rush. The raid, known as the "Alma Massacre," also claimed the lives of 35 area sheepherders, underscoring the dangers faced by those who sought to establish themselves in the region.
Despite the ongoing threat of Indian raids, the lure of precious metals proved too strong for many to resist. The influx of prospectors continued unabated, transforming the landscape and giving rise to a rough-and-tumble mining camp. Following his brother’s death, Michael Cooney arrived from New Orleans to inherit the claim and continue the mining operations that James had begun. In a poignant tribute to his fallen brother, Michael built a vault from a large boulder to serve as James’s final resting place. The vault, sealed with silver-bearing ore taken from Cooney’s Mine, still stands today at the Cooney Cemetery, located about 7 miles east of Alma, a testament to the enduring bonds of family and the hardships of the frontier.
As mining activity intensified, the mining camp of Mogollon, New Mexico sprang up in Silver Creek Canyon, transforming from a collection of tents and makeshift shelters into a more established community. A sawmill was erected to provide lumber for construction, and various businesses emerged to cater to the needs of the growing population. In 1890, a post office and jail were established, signifying the camp’s increasing permanence and the need for law and order. Two years later, the first school was built, reflecting the community’s commitment to education and the future of its children. The Silver City and Mogollon Stage provided essential transportation and freight services, connecting the remote camp to the outside world. The arduous journey between Silver City and Mogollon, a distance of some eighty miles, took approximately 15 hours, highlighting the challenges of travel in the rugged terrain.
Several mines were developed in the area, each with its own unique history and challenges. Among the most notable were the Maud S., Deep Down, and Last Chance mines. However, the most significant and profitable mine was the Little Fannie. While the Little Fannie provided employment for many and yielded a substantial amount of ore, it was also known for its hazardous working conditions. The mine was notoriously dusty, leading to a high incidence of "Miner’s Consumption," also known as "Black Lung" disease. This debilitating respiratory illness resulted in a quick turnover of workers, contributing to the transient nature of the town’s population. During the 1890s, Mogollon’s population fluctuated dramatically, ranging from 3,000 to 6,000 residents, as miners arrived seeking their fortunes and departed due to illness or disappointment.
During its peak years, Mogollon, New Mexico gained a reputation as one of the wildest mining towns in the West. The camp attracted a diverse and often lawless population, including gamblers, stagecoach robbers, claim jumpers, and gunmen. Saloons and gambling halls thrived, providing entertainment and opportunities for both fortune and ruin. The town’s reputation for lawlessness contributed to its allure, attracting those who sought adventure and were willing to take risks in the pursuit of wealth.
Throughout its history, Mogollon was plagued by a series of devastating fires and floods. The first major fire occurred in 1894, wiping out most of the town’s buildings. Undeterred by this catastrophe, the citizens of Mogollon persevered, rebuilding their homes and businesses, this time using more durable materials such as brick and adobe. That same year, the mining camp also suffered a devastating flood caused by melting snows and heavy spring rains. The floodwaters overflowed from Silver Creek, sweeping away homes, mining operations, and even some of the town’s residents. Other floods followed in 1896, 1899, and 1914, each causing significant damage and hardship. More fires occurred in 1904, 1910, 1915, and 1942, further devastating the town and testing the resilience of its inhabitants.
By 1909, Mogollon had a population of approximately 2,000 people, a testament to its continued importance as a mining center. The town boasted a thriving commercial district, with five saloons, two restaurants, four merchandise stores, and two hotels catering to the needs of residents and visitors. Mogollon also had two infamous red-light districts. The town also boasted the Midway Theatre, a bakery, a photographer, a couple of doctors, and various other retail businesses.
Despite a gradual decline in population due to technological advancements and diminishing ore deposits, Mogollon continued to produce significant quantities of minerals. In 1913, the mines in the area yielded approximately 1 ½ million dollars in minerals, demonstrating the continued viability of the mining industry.
Michael Cooney, who had taken over the original claims after his brother’s death, also met a tragic fate. In 1914, while still prospecting in the mountains, he failed to return home. Search parties were organized to look for him, but their efforts were hampered by the high elevation and the onset of winter. Four months later, Michael Cooney’s body was discovered in a nearby canyon. He had frozen to death, a grim reminder of the dangers faced by those who sought to make their living in the harsh and unforgiving landscape.
By 1915, Mogollon’s population had decreased to about 1,500 residents. New utilities such as electricity, water, and telephones, improved the quality of life.
World War I had a devastating impact on Mogollon, marking the beginning of its decline. The demand for gold and silver plummeted, forcing many of Mogollon’s mines to shut down. By 1930, the town’s population had dwindled to just two hundred people.
Mogollon experienced a brief resurgence in the late 1930s when gold prices rose again. However, this renewed life was short-lived. World War II brought another sharp decline in gold values, and a devastating fire in 1942 nearly reduced the town to a complete ghost town.
Despite these setbacks, the few remaining residents of Mogollon persevered. The Little Fannie Mine continued to operate until the early 1950s, when it finally ceased production, marking the end of an era. Over the years, Mogollon’s mines had produced nearly 20 million dollars in gold and silver, contributing significantly to the region’s economy.
With its mines silent, Mogollon officially became a ghost town. However, some of its owners remained, determined to preserve the town’s history and character. Today, Mogollon is a ghost towner’s dream, with nearly 100 historic buildings still standing. About 15 residents live there year-round. The entire town was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1987, recognizing its historical significance. The buildings, in various stages of repair, are used primarily as residences, summer homes, and a few remaining open businesses, generally open on summer weekends.
One of the most impressive buildings in Mogollon is the Silver Creek Inn, which continues to serve customers today. The inn is housed in an 1885 two-story adobe structure originally known as the Mogollon House. Built by Frank Lauderbaugh and operated by Henry Johnson, the Mogollon House rented upstairs rooms and sold food and merchandise on its first floor.
In 1914, the building was sold to James Holland, a Philadelphia barber, who opened a barbershop and general store on the first floor and continued to rent rooms on the upper level. Holland operated his businesses for more than three decades, until 1948, when he left the area and headed for California. A family then utilized the building as a home for many years.
In 1980, Stan King purchased the building and renovated it into a bed and breakfast called the Silver Creek Inn. The historic building continues to cater to customers today, providing rooms with character and great food. However, it is only open seasonally.
Across the street stands a row of three historic stone buildings. The Mogollon Museum is housed in one of them, which once served as a general merchandise store for decades. The museum displays local history and numerous mining artifacts and is open on weekends from May through October. Next to the museum stands the old Holland’s Furniture and Notions store, as well as another historic two-story building.
Further down the road is the old Silver Creek Stage Stop; the old Kelly Store, which continues to house antiques and curios; the Mogollon Theatre; Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Church, which is undergoing renovation; and several old homes and cabins. A saloon and general store also stand; however, these are not original buildings. They were part of a 1973 movie set for a western called My Name is Nobody, starring Henry Fonda.
Beyond the church and up a very steep hill, the road winds some two miles upward to Mogollon’s 1891 cemetery. In 1918, Mogollon, like places worldwide, suffered from the deadly influenza pandemic that erupted during the final stages of World War I. Legend tells us that there is a mass grave of flu victims at the cemetery due to people dying faster than they could bury them. However, there is no marked site. A high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle is required to drive up the rough road.
Mogollon, New Mexico is located about 12 miles northeast of Glenwood, New Mexico. To get there from Glenwood, take NM 180 about 3 miles northwest to NM-159 (Bursum Road) and turn right (east.) Bursom Road travels through the San Francisco River Valley, at first slowly climbing through fertile ranchlands for about two miles before quickly ascending the west flank of the Mogollon Mountains.
Along the more than 2,000-foot ascent, the road becomes steep and narrow in many places before reaching Mogollon some seven miles later. Along the way, there are several spectacular views, and the terrain is dotted with mining remains. Also, watch for abundant wildlife, including small herds of Javelina (wild pigs) and glimpses of the White-Nosed Coati, a curious ring-tailed cat that inhabits parts of the southwest.