Ghost Town Stretch Across the Mojave
The relentless march of progress, often symbolized by the construction of modern highways, can leave behind a trail of forgotten communities. In the vast expanse of the Mojave Desert, Interstate 40 stands as a testament to this phenomenon, having rerouted traffic and commerce away from a significant portion of the historic Route 66. This redirection resulted in a desolate corridor, a 100-mile stretch of the Mother Road now dotted with silent sentinels – the ghost towns that once thrived along its path. From the vicinity of Needles, California, near Goffs, westward to Ludlow, where Route 66 reconnects with I-40, the desert landscape whispers tales of a bygone era, offering a glimpse into a history etched in crumbling structures and sun-baked earth.
Imagine yourself as a Dust Bowl refugee in the 1930s, your vehicle laden with possessions and your heart filled with the hope of a better life in California. The promise of fertile lands and abundant opportunities fuels your arduous journey. But as you traverse this arid stretch of highway, the harsh reality of the Mojave begins to sink in. The sweltering heat, the desolate terrain, and the scarcity of resources would have undoubtedly tested the resolve of even the most determined travelers. The ghost town stretch across the Mojave is a stark reminder of the challenges faced by those who sought a new beginning in the Golden State.
For those drawn to the allure of abandoned places and the echoes of the past, this section of Route 66 offers a unique and evocative experience. A ghost town stretch across the Mojave provides countless opportunities to explore crumbling buildings, capture haunting photographs, and contemplate the lives of those who once called these places home. However, it is crucial to understand that this is not a journey for those seeking modern conveniences. Quaint stopping points, bustling curio shops, and readily available amenities are conspicuously absent. This is a raw and unfiltered encounter with the desert’s past, a journey that demands preparation and a spirit of adventure.
The exploration typically begins by exiting I-40 at US 95 North, followed by a left turn onto Goffs Road. This marks the beginning of a forty-mile stretch characterized by its relative isolation and stark beauty. This alignment of Route 66, predating 1931, was once home to several small settlements, including Ibis, Bannock, and Homer. Today, these towns have largely vanished, leaving only faint traces for the observant traveler to discover before arriving at the remnants of Goffs. The ghost town stretch across the Mojave can be a lesson on how harsh nature can be.
Goffs: A Testament to Resilience
Goffs, though faded, offers a tangible connection to the past. Among its surviving structures are the old General Store and a meticulously renovated 1914 schoolhouse. The Mojave Desert Heritage and Cultural Association has transformed the schoolhouse into a museum, preserving a collection of historical materials and displaying a variety of artifacts, including vintage vehicles and mining equipment, on the surrounding grounds. The rest of the town, however, presents a more somber picture. Abandoned structures, scattered debris, and relics of the former mining industry stand as silent witnesses to the passage of time and the town’s decline. While the desert stretches for hundreds of miles, the ghost town stretch across the Mojave seems to be the main attraction for adventurous people.
Continuing eastward, the old Route 66 crosses under I-40, leading to the site of Fenner. Further along lies Essex, where the remnants of a post office and an old gas station can still be seen, seemingly isolated in the middle of nowhere. Beyond Essex, the former towns of Danby and Summit have all but disappeared, leaving little to mark their existence.
Chambless, once a vital oasis in the desert, offers a more evocative glimpse into the past. This town boasted a gas station, a cafe, and a collection of cabins, all of which remain standing behind a tall, imposing fence. In its heyday, Chambless was a popular stop for travelers along Route 66, offering respite from the harsh desert conditions. The presence of trees, a rarity in the Mojave, provided welcome shade, and the gas station/market featured a wide covered porch where weary travelers could rest and refresh themselves. About a mile and a half west of Chambless, the remains of the Road Runner’s Retreat serve as another reminder of the hospitality that once thrived along this stretch of the Mother Road. The ghost town stretch across the Mojave used to be a source of comfort for travelers looking for a place to rest.
Amboy: The Legacy of Roy’s
As you approach Amboy, the landscape begins to change, revealing a stark and somewhat unsettling feature: the bank on the north side of the highway, covered in rock-strewn graffiti left by countless passersby. This visual testament to the transient nature of the road hints at the stories and experiences that have unfolded along this desolate stretch.
Amboy itself is a remarkably preserved town, consisting of approximately ten buildings and a reported population of twenty residents. However, during many visits, the town appears deserted, with Roy’s Cafe often closed. The town’s history is inextricably linked to Roy and Velma Crowl, who established the cafe, motel, and service station around 1938. Their two children, Lloyd Irwin and Betty, played an integral role in the family business.
For decades, Roy’s served as a vital lifeline for travelers traversing the Mojave Desert. The cafe’s burgers and the exceptional service provided by the Crowl family became legendary. Amboy offered food, refreshments, mechanical services, and a welcoming atmosphere to those who were weary and travel-worn. Roy Crowl was also an entrepreneur, owning additional real estate in Sedona, Arizona, and Cherry Valley, California. The ghost town stretch across the Mojave used to be filled with these locations that provided comfort for those traveling in the desert.
Over time, the family’s story evolved. Lloyd moved to Twenty-Nine Palms but continued to commute to work in the salt mines east of Amboy. Herman "Buster" Burris arrived in town on horseback and found employment with Roy. Buster eventually married Roy’s daughter, Betty, and together they continued to operate the business after Roy’s passing, maintaining the same high standards of service.
After Betty’s death from cancer, Buster remarried a woman named Bessie, and the two continued the tradition of providing exceptional care to travelers. Buster was known for his generosity, even opening his doors on Thanksgiving to assist stranded tourists. The cafe’s reputation for homemade burgers, chili, and other culinary delights continued to attract weary travelers seeking respite from the long, hot drive. Buster continued to change tires on trucks and buses until his retirement at the age of 80.
Buster sold the town in 1995 and moved to Twenty-Nine Palms, where he passed away in 2000. The new owners primarily used the location for movie shoots and photo sessions. While the restaurant remained open intermittently, its hours were unpredictable. In early 2005, Buster’s widow, Bessie, foreclosed on Amboy and sold it at a foreclosure sale in late February.
Fortunately, Albert Okura, a dedicated preservationist of Route 66, purchased the 690-acre town for $425,000. Okura, the owner of the Juan Pollo restaurant chain and the first McDonald’s restaurant in San Bernardino (now a museum), has ambitious plans to restore Amboy’s gas station, convenience store, diner, motel rooms, and cottages to their 1950s-era glory.
Progress has already been made. As of 2009, the Amboy Cafe has reopened as a gift store, selling Route 66 and Amboy-themed merchandise. Plans are underway to reopen it as a full-service restaurant, but significant improvements are still needed to make this dream a reality. The ghost town stretch across the Mojave may have a future thanks to people like Albert Okura.
Two and a half miles west of Amboy, the Amboy Crater rises dramatically from the desert floor. This volcano, which erupted approximately 10,000 years ago, was once a popular tourist attraction along Route 66. Today, it stands silently, a reminder of the road’s vibrant past.
Six miles west of Amboy, the town of Bagdad once stood, but it has now completely vanished. You will also pass by the sites of Siberia and Klondike, which, like Bagdad, exist only as names on old maps. Finally, you reach Ludlow, where signs of life begin to reappear.
Ludlow: A Town That Died Twice
Ludlow, while still a virtual ghost town, offers a glimpse of activity due to its proximity to I-40. Founded in 1882 as a water stop for the Central Pacific Railroad, the town initially relied on water transported from Newberry Springs in tank cars. The discovery of gold in the area led to a period of growth, but the mining boom eventually subsided in the early 1900s. Ludlow experienced a revival with the arrival of Route 66, becoming a bustling rest stop along the new highway. However, the construction of I-40 led to a second decline, leaving the town with decaying buildings and a sense of faded glory. The ghost town stretch across the Mojave is filled with towns that suffered a similar fate.
Behind the old settlement of Ludlow, across the railroad tracks, lies a cemetery surrounded by a rusty wire fence. Nameless graves, marked by simple wooden crosses, serve as a poignant reminder of those who died in this remote location long ago.
The original Route 66 diverges beyond Ludlow, heading to the south side of I-40. However, by following the north frontage road, you can rejoin the historic highway after approximately two miles.
Newberry Springs and Daggett: Surviving Echoes
About thirty miles beyond Ludlow lies Newberry Springs, a town with a long history as a water source in the arid Mojave Desert. While the town was not formally founded until 1911, wagon trains traveling to California on the old Mormon Trail in the mid-1800s regularly stopped here. Located on an ancient lake, Newberry Springs possesses a large basin of underground water, making it a crucial watering point for wagon trains west of the Colorado River.
In Newberry Springs, be sure to visit the Bagdad Cafe, a Route 66 survivor that was once known as the Sidewinder Cafe. Behind a high chain-link fence, you can also see the remains of an old Whiting Brothers Gas Station.
Continuing for another 12 miles, you will reach Daggett, a town with a rich and varied history. Founded in the 1860s, Daggett boomed following the discovery of silver in the Calico Mountains to the north. The subsequent discovery of borax further fueled the town’s growth, and Daggett became the mining supply and support center for the region.
By 1902, Daggett was supported by three borax mines and boasted three saloons, two restaurants, a lumberyard, several stores, and the historic Stone Hotel.
Several vintage buildings remain in Daggett, including Alf’s Blacksmith Shop (dating back to 1894), the Stone Hotel (built in the 1870s and said to have hosted figures such as Governor John Daggett, Tom Mix, and Wyatt Earp), and a former Visitors Information Center that opened in 1926 (now a private residence).
Before continuing down the Mother Road to Barstow, consider a side trip to the historic ghost town of Calico, located just seven miles north of Daggett. The ghost town stretch across the Mojave ends here, but the story of the Mother Road continues on.