Forked Lightning Ranch, New Mexico
For centuries, the fertile land nestled along the Pecos River in northeastern New Mexico has sustained the lives and livelihoods of its inhabitants, from indigenous communities to pioneering settlers. Woven into this rich tapestry of history is the Forked Lightning Ranch, an important landmark that stands as a testament to the region’s enduring spirit and evolving identity.
The story of the Forked Lightning Ranch is one of transformation, encompassing eras of Native American heritage, westward expansion, the glamour of Hollywood, and ultimately, preservation for future generations. Today, a portion of this historic ranch lies within the boundaries of the Pecos National Historical Park, inviting visitors to step back in time and explore its captivating past.
In 1925, John "Tex" Austin, a charismatic figure known as the "King of the Rodeo," recognized the potential of this land. A shrewd rodeo promoter and entrepreneur, Austin acquired several parcels totaling approximately 5,500 acres. These lands had once been integral parts of the Los Trigos and Pecos Pueblo land grants, connecting the new ranch to centuries of history. Austin envisioned a unique enterprise, a blend of working ranch and upscale retreat, and thus, the Forked Lightning Ranch was born. This new ranch included Kozlowski’s Trading Post, a well-established landmark along the historic Santa Fe Trail, which served as a crucial stopping point for travelers and traders.
Kozlowski’s Trading Post, already a fixture of the landscape, became the initial headquarters for the burgeoning Forked Lightning Ranch. While using the trading post as a base of operations, Austin commissioned the construction of a new ranch house, strategically positioned on a bluff that offered breathtaking views of the confluence of the Pecos River and Glorieta Creek. To bring his vision to life, Austin enlisted the expertise of John Gaw Meem, an architect who would later achieve renown for his contributions to Southwestern architecture. Meem designed the ranch house in the Pueblo Revival style, a design that drew inspiration from the architecture of the region’s Native American pueblos. The house featured rooms arranged around a central patio, creating a sense of openness and connection to the surrounding landscape. The Pueblo Revival style, with its characteristic adobe walls, flat roofs, and projecting wooden beams, perfectly complemented the natural beauty of the New Mexico terrain.
With the ranch house under construction, Austin focused on establishing the Forked Lightning Ranch as a premier destination for those seeking an authentic Western experience with a touch of luxury. He advertised the ranch house as "modern in every detail," emphasizing its amenities and comfort. Brochures touted "every room open on both sides," highlighting the seamless integration of indoor and outdoor living. The ranch house boasted modern conveniences such as electric lights, a sophisticated heating system, and indoor plumbing, including bathrooms with running hot and cold water situated conveniently between the bedrooms. These modern amenities were a significant departure from the rustic conditions often associated with ranch life, adding to the appeal of the Forked Lightning Ranch.
But the allure of the Forked Lightning Ranch extended far beyond its modern comforts. Austin offered his guests a comprehensive package that included "food, lodging, saddle horses, guides, instructor, use of polo practice field, horseback picnic trips, motor trips to Santa Fe, the Indian pueblos, or any points of interest within 50 or 75 miles of the ranch." For those who arrived unprepared for the Western lifestyle, the Trading Post and Ranch Store provided a selection of riding outfits, hats, boots, and other essential equipment.
Austin targeted affluent "dudes" from the East Coast, offering them a chance to immerse themselves in the romanticized "Old West." These guests, traveling at their own expense, endured a two-day train journey from cities like Chicago to experience the unique offerings of the Forked Lightning Ranch. Upon arrival, they were treated to cattle drives between the ranch and nearby Las Vegas, New Mexico, providing a taste of the authentic ranching lifestyle.
However, the Forked Lightning Ranch was not open to just anyone. Austin carefully curated his guest list, seeking individuals who appreciated the ranch’s unique atmosphere and shared his vision. The Ranch’s guest list included luminaries of the time, such as Colonel and Mrs. Charles Lindbergh and Will Rogers, lending an air of prestige and exclusivity to the establishment. Brochures explicitly stated that "the accommodations… are for the recreation of healthy people and no health seekers will be received," and further cautioned that "there are accommodations for only a very limited number of guests and no one will be received without references." This exclusivity contributed to the Ranch’s reputation as a haven for the elite.
Austin’s success, however, was short-lived. The onset of the Great Depression in 1929 dealt a devastating blow to the American economy, and the Forked Lightning Ranch was not immune to its effects. In 1932, facing financial hardship, Austin declared bankruptcy and lost the property to the bank. He later moved to Santa Fe, where he operated a restaurant with his wife until his death. In the meantime, his beloved ranch was sold and remained in private hands for several years. The new owners resided in the historic Kozlowski Trading Post, while Austin’s meticulously designed ranch house stood vacant, a silent reminder of a bygone era.
The Forked Lightning Ranch entered a new chapter in 1941 when Colonel Elijah Edwin "Buddy" Fogelson, a wealthy Texas oilman and rancher, purchased the 5,500-acre property. Fogelson, a man of considerable vision, expanded the original ranch to encompass approximately 18,000 acres. He adopted Austin’s ranch house as his primary residence, while Kozlowski’s Trading Post served as quarters for the ranch foreman. Under Fogelson’s ownership, the Forked Lightning Ranch once again became a working cattle ranch, contributing to the region’s agricultural economy.
In 1949, Fogelson’s life took a glamorous turn when he married the acclaimed Hollywood actress Greer Garson. The couple embraced the Forked Lightning Ranch as their part-time residence, transforming it into a social hub for the rich and famous. The ranch became renowned for its lavish parties and gatherings, showcasing the couple’s impeccable taste and generous hospitality.
The Forked Lightning Ranch became a magnet for Hollywood celebrities, politicians, artists, and philanthropists. Lavish parties included chuckwagon picnic lunches on the banks of the Pecos River or evening fiesta buffets on the patio, hunt breakfasts, and afternoon teas. The Fogelsons constructed a skeet shooting range above the ranch house in the 1950s. Among the distinguished guests who graced the ranch were Art Linkletter, Merle Oberon, Vincent Minnelli, David O. Selznick, Winthrop Rockefeller, and Georgia O’Keeffe. The Forked Lightning Ranch became synonymous with elegance and entertainment, a testament to the Fogelsons’ influence and charisma.
As Buddy Fogelson’s health declined due to Parkinson’s disease, the Fogelsons considered donating the entire ranch to the National Park Service. Following Buddy’s death in 1987, his estate was divided. Greer Garson inherited the 5,500-acre northern parcel, which included the ranch house, while his nephew and adopted son, Gayle David Ferguson, received the southern, 8,000-acre Los Trigos Ranch.
In 1989, a controversy arose when Greer and Gayle began negotiating the sale of their combined acreage to a Florida-based developer, raising concerns about the potential urbanization of the area.
Following protests from the local community and media attention, Mrs. Fogelson "reconsidered" the transaction. In 1991, she made the pivotal decision to sell her share of the property to The Conservation Fund, ensuring its preservation for future generations. The Conservation Fund subsequently donated the land to become part of Pecos National Historical Park, expanding the park’s boundaries to include the original 365-acre national monument and the addition of the 5,500-acre ranch.
Gayle Fogelson sold his portion of the ranch near Rowe, New Mexico in two parcels to local residents. In 2000, actress Jane Fonda acquired 2,300 acres of the land and established her own Fork Lightning Ranch. It was listed for sale for $19,500,000 in 2015 and was sold to a local buyer. Another large portion was purchased by actor Val Kilmer, who named his 5,328-acre the Pecos River Ranch. He sold most of his holdings in 2011 for $18.5 million to a Texas Oil executive. These portions of the old Forked Lightning Ranch are inaccessible to the public.
Today, the Forked Lightning Ranch of the Pecos National Park is located approximately 26 miles southeast of Santa Fe, New Mexico. Visitors have the opportunity to explore the ranch house itself through guided tours offered several times a week. The house sits behind a locked gate down a 1.5-mile dirt road next to Kozlowski’s Trading Post.
Visitors can continue their journey along the Santa Fe Trail and Route 66 to the Pecos Pueblo National Park, located just about a half mile north on New Mexico Highway 63, enriching their understanding of the region’s diverse history and cultural heritage.