Las Vegas, New Mexico – As Wicked as Dodge City
Nestled on the cusp of New Mexico’s eastern plains, where the landscape rises to meet the majestic Sangre de Cristo Mountains, lies a town steeped in history and folklore: Las Vegas, New Mexico. While its name might not resonate as loudly as those of Dodge City, Deadwood, or Tombstone, historical accounts suggest that Las Vegas, New Mexico harbored a darker, more volatile underbelly than many of its more celebrated Wild West counterparts. As historian Ralph Emerson Twitchell grimly noted, "Without exception, there was no town that harbored a more disreputable gang of desperadoes and outlaws than did Las Vegas."
The origins of Las Vegas, New Mexico trace back to an 1835 Mexican land grant. The settlement, initially christened Nuestra Senora de Los Dolores de Las Vegas Grandes – Our Lady of Sorrows of the Great Meadows – was founded by settlers with ancestral ties to the region stretching back to the early 17th century. Recognizing the ever-present threat of raids by the Apache Indians, the town was conceived as a fortified community. One-story adobe houses formed a protective ring around a central plaza, providing a secure enclosure where livestock could be herded during times of peril.
The early colonists, demonstrating their ingenuity and resourcefulness, undertook the construction of the Acequia Madre, or Mother Ditch. This vital irrigation channel diverted water from the Gallinas River, ensuring a reliable water supply for the community. Remarkably, even after more than a century and a half, this ancient waterway continues to serve its original purpose, meandering behind the buildings surrounding the Plaza and nourishing the gardens in the town’s western sector.
The year 1846 marked a turning point in the history of Las Vegas, New Mexico. The United States declared war on Mexico, and General Stephen W. Kearney led his Army of the West into the town to claim New Mexico as a U.S. possession. Upon arrival, Kearney encountered a flourishing community of approximately 1,500 Spanish settlers. Facing the imposing sight of large cannons trained directly on the Plaza, the residents of Las Vegas made the pragmatic decision to surrender without resistance.
By this time, the Santa Fe Trail had become a well-traveled artery of commerce, facilitating the exchange of goods between the east and the west. For weary travelers navigating this rugged path, Las Vegas presented a welcome respite, being the first town of considerable size encountered after enduring a grueling 600-mile journey from Kansas. The influx of traders, pioneers, and prospectors created a burgeoning demand for goods and services, and Las Vegas was quick to oblige, particularly in the provision of whiskey and female companionship.
The U.S. Army maintained a presence in Las Vegas until 1851, when they relocated to Fort Union, situated approximately 20 miles north of the town. Fort Union was strategically positioned to safeguard the Santa Fe Trail from Indian attacks. The establishment of the fort further fueled the growth and prosperity of Las Vegas, as the army became a significant purchaser of supplies for the hundreds of soldiers and civilians stationed there.
The Santa Fe Trail generated numerous employment opportunities, and the town’s merchants flourished, leading to a population boom that saw the number of residents surpass 1,000 by 1860. Over the ensuing two decades, the population quadrupled as Las Vegas, New Mexico solidified its position as a major trade hub.
However, this era of prosperity was also marred by tensions and conflicts between the established Spanish settlers, the newly arrived Anglo immigrants, and the indigenous Apache tribes. When the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad reached Las Vegas in 1879, the town held the distinction of being the largest city between San Francisco, California, and Independence, Missouri.
The arrival of the railroad brought with it modern amenities such as waterworks and a telephone company. The tracks were laid to the east of the Gallinas River, approximately one mile from the Plaza. On July 4, 1879, the "iron horse" made its grand entrance, drawing a crowd of hundreds of citizens, including merchants, professionals, desperadoes, and dance-hall girls.
Almost instantly, a new town emerged on the eastern banks of the Gallinas River, just a mile from the Plaza. Initially, it consisted of a collection of tents, sheds, and makeshift structures. However, within a few short years, a substantial number of permanent buildings and a rival commercial district had been established. The town expanded rapidly, rivaling Denver, Tucson, and El Paso in size and importance.
The six trains that stopped daily ushered in a new wave of prosperity, attracting legitimate businesses but also exacerbating the existing atmosphere of distrust and lawlessness. Outlaws, con artists, murderers, and thieves became increasingly prevalent, transforming the eastern part of the settlement into a haven of crime and disorder.
The rail terminus became subject to policing by a group of "peace officers" known as the "Dodge City Gang." However, these enforcers were often as corrupt and lawless as the criminals they were supposed to apprehend. The gang’s ranks included individuals such as J.J. Webb, the current marshal; "Mysterious Dave Mather," Joe Carson, "Dirty Dave" Rudabaugh, and "Hoodoo Brown," the Justice of the Peace.
During this tumultuous period in the history of Las Vegas, New Mexico, the town served as either a permanent residence or a temporary stop for some of the most notorious figures of the Old West. Among those who frequented Las Vegas were Doc Holliday, Big-Nose Kate, Jesse James, Billy the Kid, Bob Ford, Wyatt Earp, Rattlesnake Sam, Cock-Eyed Frank, Web-Fingered Billy, Hook Nose Jim, Stuttering Tom, Durango Kid, Handsome Harry the Dancehall Rustler, Vicente Silva and his gang, and Belle Sidons (alias Monte Verde).
In the summer of 1879, Doc Holliday arrived in Las Vegas, where he briefly attempted to establish a dental practice. However, his entrepreneurial pursuits were short-lived, and within weeks, he acquired a saloon on Center Street. His partner and financial backer was John Joshua Webb, a former lawman from Dodge City and a member of the notorious Dodge City Gang.
On July 19, 1879, Doc Holliday became embroiled in a dispute with a local gunman named Mike Gordon, who was popular among the townspeople. The argument escalated into a street confrontation, during which Doc calmly invited Gordon to initiate the shooting. Gordon accepted the invitation and met his demise, succumbing to three gunshot wounds to the abdomen.
Following the shooting, a lynch mob formed with the intention of summarily executing Holliday. However, Doc managed to escape and return to Dodge City. Upon his arrival, he discovered that Wyatt Earp had already departed for a new silver strike in Tombstone, Arizona.
By January 1880, the Dodge City Gang had firmly established its control over Las Vegas. On January 22, 1880, the Las Vegas Shootout at the Variety Hall Saloon propelled Dave Mather into the annals of Old West lore after a violent gunfight that resulted in multiple fatalities and subsequent lynchings.
The residents of Las Vegas, New Mexico eventually grew weary of the lawlessness and disorder that plagued their town and decided to take matters into their own hands. On April 8, 1880, the Las Vegas Optic published a stark warning:
"TO MURDERERS, CONFIDENCE MEN, THIEVES: The citizens of Las Vegas have tired of robbery, murder, and other crimes that have made this town a byword in every civilized community. They have resolved to put a stop to crime if in attaining that end, they have to forget the law and resort to a speedier justice than it will afford. All such characters are, therefore, hereby notified, that they must either leave this town or conform themselves to the requirements of law, or they will be summarily dealt with. The flow of blood must and shall be stopped in this community, and the good citizens of both the old and new towns have determined to stop it, if they have to HANG by the strong arm of FORCE, every violator of the law in this country." – Vigilantes
In the wake of this ominous notice, many outlaws fled to less hostile territories. However, the era of lawlessness was not entirely over. In 1881, after Billy the Kid was killed at Fort Sumner, New Mexico, his index finger was reportedly sent in a jar to the Las Vegas newspaper.
The Las Vegas Optic reported the incident with a macabre sense of humor: "It [his finger] is well-preserved in alcohol and has been viewed by many in our office today. If the rush continues, we shall purchase a small tent and open a sideshow to which complimentary tickets will be issued to our personal friends."
Lawlessness persisted in Las Vegas, although it was less overt. The citizens, preoccupied with earlier shoot-outs, failed to notice a marked increase in cattle rustling. By the late 1880s, entire herds of cattle were vanishing. This illicit activity was secretly orchestrated by Vicente Silva, a respected saloon owner of the Imperial Saloon. His gang, known as Silva’s White Caps, the Forty Bandits, or the Society of Bandits, held the area in a virtual stranglehold until October 1892. In that month, the citizens of Las Vegas hanged Pat Maes, a member of the gang. This act of defiance marked the beginning of the gang’s gradual disintegration. Silva was eventually murdered by former gang members and buried at Camp de lost Cadillos on May 19, 1895.
As the 19th century drew to a close, Las Vegas began to settle down. In 1898, the town contributed 21 Rough Riders to Teddy Roosevelt’s regiment, many of whom fought alongside him during the famed charge up San Juan Hill. The town hosted the first Rough Riders reunion, an event attended by the soon-to-be president himself.
Today, this historic town, with a population of approximately 15,000, is a hidden gem among New Mexico’s tourist destinations, offering a wealth of history and attractions. Over 900 buildings in Las Vegas are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The unique blend of old Spanish colonists and European immigrants has resulted in a remarkable collection of architectural treasures that lend Las Vegas its distinctive charm.
Visitors to Las Vegas, New Mexico should be sure to explore the Las Vegas City Museum and Rough Riders Memorial, as well as the picturesque historic districts of Bridge Street and the Plaza, a designated Santa Fe Trail site. The La Castenada Hotel, built in 1898, is a "must-see" landmark from Las Vegas’ post-Santa Fe Trail era. This building, which once housed one of the famous Harvey House Hotels, stands facing the railroad tracks in the 500 block of Railroad Avenue. The hotel, with its graceful facade and arched walkways, was the site of Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders Reunion in 1899. After years of vacancy and neglect, the hotel was purchased in 2014 by Allan Affeldt, who, along with his wife, helped restore the La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona, in the 1990s.
Across the street stands the Rawlins building, formerly the residence for the Harvey Girls who worked in the hotel’s dining room. Travelers interested in exploring the town should first visit the Chamber of Commerce to obtain free maps and pamphlets detailing six separate walking tours. Modern Las Vegas also offers a variety of traditional arts and crafts in shops and galleries, showcasing everything from antiques to unique original furniture, paintings, art objects, clothing, weavings, and jewelry. The surrounding area provides opportunities for recreation and wilderness experiences, including the Las Vegas National Wildlife Refuge and MacAlister Lake.
Fort Union National Monument, located approximately 20 miles north of Las Vegas, offers visitors a glimpse into the past through its historic fort buildings, which attract thousands of visitors each year. Pecos National Monument, about 30 miles southwest of Las Vegas, features a museum that pays tribute to the Native Americans who inhabited the area in the 16th century.
As Territorial Governor Miguel Otero once observed, "They are as tough a bunch of bad men as ever gathered outside a penal institution," reflecting the complex and often contradictory character of Las Vegas, New Mexico.