The Black Hills of South Dakota
Emerging dramatically from the vast expanse of the Great Plains, the Black Hills of South Dakota present a captivating juxtaposition of rugged terrain and verdant life. This uplifted island of pine-covered mountains offers a sanctuary of natural beauty, rich history, and profound cultural significance. Within its borders, visitors encounter towering rock formations, dense forests teeming with wildlife, remnants of bygone eras in weathered ghost towns, and protected lands encompassing national and state parks. The Black Hills of South Dakota are a region of stark contrasts, where the echoes of the past resonate amid the tranquility of the present.
Geologically ancient, the Black Hills of South Dakota were formed over millennia, sculpted by the relentless forces of nature. Arising between the extinction of the dinosaurs and the onset of the most recent ice age, this isolated mountain range stands as one of the oldest geological formations in the United States. Wind, erosion, and volcanic activity have each played a role in shaping the landscape, resulting in the impressive pinnacles and unique geological formations that characterize the region.
The human history of the Black Hills of South Dakota stretches back nearly 10,000 years, with Native American tribes inhabiting the area since time immemorial. Around 1500 A.D., the Arikara people arrived, followed by other tribes, including the Cheyenne, Crow, Kiowa, and Pawnee. However, it was the Lakota Sioux who ultimately claimed the land as their own in the 18th century, driving out the previous inhabitants. To the Lakota, these hills were sacred, known as Paha Sapa, meaning "hills that are black," a name derived from the dark appearance of the forests when viewed from a distance.
Concurrently with the Lakota migration, French Canadian explorers began venturing into the region, mapping the Missouri River and engaging in trade with the Native American tribes. In 1743, explorers Francois and Joseph La Verendrye claimed the territory for King Louis XV of France, marking their claim by burying an engraved lead plate near present-day Pierre, South Dakota.
The landscape dramatically changed in 1803 with President Thomas Jefferson’s Louisiana Purchase from Napoleon of France. This acquisition encompassed a vast 828,000 square miles, including the entirety of what would later become South Dakota. Eager to explore and document this new territory, Jefferson dispatched his personal secretary, Meriwether Lewis, and his friend, William Clark, on a groundbreaking expedition. The Lewis and Clark expedition, comprised of 31 members, traversed South Dakota with minimal resistance from the Native American tribes. Along their journey on the Missouri River, they encountered French trader Toussaint Charbonneau and his young Shoshone wife, Sacagawea. This young woman, won by Charbonneau in a gambling match, proved invaluable as a guide, assisting Lewis and Clark in their epic journey to the Pacific Ocean.
Upon their return east in 1806, the accounts and journals of the Lewis and Clark expedition ignited the imagination of countless Americans, sparking a wave of westward migration into the upper Missouri Valley. As European immigrants flooded the eastern United States, seeking fertile land and opportunities, white settlers gradually began to push westward. While Lewis and Clark had heard tales of the Black Hills of South Dakota from traders and trappers, it wasn’t until 1823 that Jedediah Smith and a small group of traders ventured into the hills themselves. Despite the explorations of other adventurous trappers, many avoided the area due to its sacred status among the Lakota people.
The relationship between the Lakota and the encroaching white settlers was fraught with tension. The Lakota never welcomed the intrusion onto their hunting grounds, and as immigration increased, relations deteriorated markedly. The U.S. Army established outposts nearby, but largely avoided direct involvement within the Black Hills themselves. However, the situation escalated when Lakota raiding parties began attacking nearby settlements, using the Black Hills of South Dakota as a refuge.
In response, Lieutenant G.K. Warren was assigned to conduct a thorough reconnaissance of the plains of South Dakota, including the Black Hills of South Dakota. Further expeditions followed in 1859-60, led by Captain W.F. Reynolds and Dr. F.V. Hayden, aimed at gathering more detailed information about the region’s resources and geography.
As settlers continued to arrive in the eastern regions of South Dakota, interest in the potential riches of the Black Hills of South Dakota grew. In 1861, groups of miners and explorers began organizing to investigate reports of gold in the area. Adding fuel to the fire, the U.S. Congress passed the Homestead Act in 1862, allowing American citizens to purchase 160 acres of unsettled land for a nominal fee in parts of the Dakota Territory. Homesteaders were required to build a home and cultivate the land, leading to the construction of sod houses, earning them the nickname "sodbusters."
Despite the growing interest in the Black Hills, the military recognized the importance of the area to the Lakota people. In 1867, General William T. Sherman stated that the Army was not in a position to investigate the Black Hills and would not protect any civilians who did so, attempting to deter further encroachment.
The federal government sought to establish peace with the Lakota through a series of treaties. The Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868 established the Great Sioux Reservation, encompassing all lands from the Missouri River west to the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming, effectively ceding the Black Hills of South Dakota to the Lakota. The treaty aimed to bring lasting peace by providing food, clothing, and money to the Native Americans through established agencies. It also prohibited settlers and miners from entering the Black Hills without authorization. In return, the Lakota agreed to cease hostilities against pioneers and railroad construction. However, the treaty failed to prevent settlers from entering the Lakota reservation, and renewed Indian raids on nearby settlements prompted General Philip Sheridan to propose an expedition to investigate the possibility of establishing a fort in the Black Hills in 1874.
The discovery of gold by George Armstrong Custer’s expedition in 1874 ignited a gold rush, leading to a massive influx of miners onto Sioux lands, violating the treaty and federal law. This encroachment sparked the Black Hills War (1876-1877), the last major Indian War on the Great Plains, encompassing famous battles like the Battle of Rosebud, the Battle of Little Bighorn, the Dull Knife Fight, and the Battle of Slim Buttes.
The U.S. Army eventually defeated the Lakota in the fall of 1876, forcing them onto reservations and establishing a new treaty in 1877. This treaty granted the U.S. title to the Black Hills of South Dakota and legalized gold mining in the territory. However, over a century later, the Supreme Court ruled this act illegal, acknowledging the unjust seizure of the land.
The gold rush led to the rapid growth of boomtowns like Custer City, Deadwood, and Lead, transforming the landscape and attracting prospectors, gamblers, and outlaws.
Today, the Black Hills of South Dakota, extending into Wyoming, offer a wealth of attractions for visitors. Mount Rushmore National Memorial, Jewel Cave National Monument, Wind Cave National Park, Devils Tower National Monument, Black Hills National Forest, Custer State Park, and Bear Butte State Park provide diverse opportunities for exploration and recreation.
Numerous trails wind through the parks, offering hiking, biking, and cross-country skiing opportunities. These trails traverse forests and grasslands, providing glimpses of abundant wildlife, including buffalo, deer, antelope, bighorn sheep, and prairie dogs.
While mining has largely been replaced by ranching, the remnants of the past can still be found in ghost towns like Central City, Addie Camp, and Addie Creek. Deadwood, a former gold camp, has been preserved and transformed into a gambling destination, while Lead offers tours of the now-closed Homestake Mine.
Each August, Sturgis hosts the annual motorcycle rally, drawing over half a million visitors to the Black Hills of South Dakota.
The Black Hills of South Dakota offer a diverse range of experiences, from historical sites to natural wonders, providing something for every traveler. The region combines the allure of the Old West with quaint attractions, rodeos, and outdoor recreation.
The dispute over the Black Hills of South Dakota continues to this day. The February Act of 1877, which stripped the Sioux of the Black Hills, is still contested. In 1980, the Supreme Court ruled to support an earlier lower court ruling that awarded the Sioux nation $106 million. However, the Sioux Tribe refused to accept the award, arguing that they had never signed a contract with Arthur Lazarus, who argued the case. Legal battles continue, with the Tribe wanting the Federal lands of the Black Hills and money.