Coal Mining Towns Along Route 66
The allure of Route 66, the Mother Road, extends beyond its iconic status as a symbol of American freedom and mobility. As travelers journey eastward from Wilmington, Illinois, a region steeped in the history of coal mining unfolds. This stretch of road reveals towns whose identities were inextricably linked to the rise and fall of the coal industry, leaving behind a legacy of boom, bust, and enduring resilience. This exploration delves into the stories of Braidwood, Braceville, and Gardner, Illinois, offering a glimpse into their past as thriving coal-mining communities along Route 66.
The first stop along this historic route is Braidwood, a town that owes its existence to a serendipitous discovery.
Braidwood, Illinois: A Town Forged in Coal
In 1865, William Henneberry wasn’t searching for coal. He was simply digging a well on the Thomas Byron farm. Instead of water, his shovel struck a rich vein of black coal, igniting a boom that would transform the landscape and the lives of those who settled there. The town, named after James Braidwood, who pioneered deep coal mining near Wilmington, rapidly grew. By 1873, Braidwood was home to approximately 2,000 people, drawn by the promise of work and prosperity.
The early days of Braidwood were characterized by a vibrant, if volatile, mix of cultures and ideologies. Immigrants from across the globe flocked to the town, bringing with them diverse political, religious, and cultural beliefs. These differences, unfortunately, often manifested in conflict.
An example of this early volatility can be seen in an incident that occurred during the town officer elections in April 1876. A fight erupted just before the polls closed. When Marshall Simms attempted to arrest a ringleader, a man named Pat Creeley, the situation escalated. The crowd overpowered Simms, seized his revolver, and freed Creeley. The riot intensified, with innocent bystanders attacked, the polls raided, and the election records stolen. Despite the severity of the incident, no arrests were ever made.
The following year, the United States found itself in the throes of a depression. Coal miners in Braidwood were asked to accept a pay cut, which they initially did during the winter months. However, when another cut was proposed in the summer of 1877, the miners went on strike. The coal companies responded by hiring strikebreakers from other areas, including African Americans recruited from the impoverished South and transported by train. These black strikebreakers were often derisively referred to as "blacklegs."
Tensions rose, culminating in a confrontation in July when a group of black miners were verbally abused by white miners and their families. Striking miners began forming groups with plans to harm the strikebreakers. While the mining companies assured protection, many African-American miners fled the area. The situation prompted local officials to request assistance from the governor, who deployed 1,300 soldiers to restore order, with 200 remaining in Braidwood for several weeks.
Eventually, the strike was broken. Some black miners returned to work and remained in the area, establishing families and contributing to the community. However, Braidwood continued to be perceived as a rough-and-tumble town, filled with transients and criminals. Residents lived in fear of robbery, locking their doors at night. Women rarely ventured out alone after dark, and people were hesitant to leave their homes unattended for extended periods.
This atmosphere of fear tragically led to the accidental shooting of the town marshal by the local Catholic priest, Father McGuire, in November 1878. Father McGuire, feeling ill, had retired for the evening. Awakened by a noise, he mistook the returning Marshal Muldowney for an intruder and fired his revolver, mortally wounding the marshal.
Despite the tragic circumstances, Father McGuire was tried for murder but ultimately acquitted. The testimony of the housekeeper, Muldowney’s son, and the general atmosphere of fear in Braidwood convinced the jury that the shooting was justifiable homicide.
Another tragedy struck Braidwood in April 1879, when a devastating fire swept through the town, destroying numerous buildings, including the grain elevator, railroad depot, warehouse, gristmill, hotel, saloons, a blacksmith shop, and several homes.
Despite these setbacks, Braidwood persevered. The town was rebuilt and continued to attract newcomers. One such individual was Peter Rossi, an Italian immigrant who arrived in the late 1870s and began manufacturing macaroni. In 1898, he acquired the old Broadbent Hotel, transforming it into a full-fledged pasta factory.
The Rossi family’s entrepreneurial spirit continued into the 20th century. Peter’s son, Stephen, opened the Stephen Rossi Saloon in 1912, a popular establishment until Prohibition forced its closure in 1919.
When Route 66 was established, the Rossi family recognized a new opportunity. They built a grocery store, service station, restaurant, and motor courts along the Mother Road. In 1927, they added a dance hall, which thrived until it was destroyed by fire in 1935.
Today, Braidwood, with a population of just over 5,000, offers a nostalgic glimpse into the past. Icons such as the Polk-A-Dot Drive-In, established in 1956 in a rainbow-colored school bus, evoke the spirit of vintage Route 66. The drive-in, now located at 222 N. Front Street, features larger-than-life statues of James Dean, Elvis, and the Blues Brothers, offering visitors a taste of classic American culture.
Braceville, Illinois: A Boom and Bust Story
Further along Route 66 lies Braceville, once a thriving city with a population of 3,500 in the 1870s. At its peak, Braceville boasted six general merchandise stores, two banks, a hotel, two restaurants, and 18 other retail businesses.
However, Braceville’s prosperity was short-lived. In the summer of 1910, the miners of the Braceville Coal Company went on strike. Frustrated by the situation, the coal company simply closed down, leading to the town’s rapid abandonment. Within a few months, Braceville was largely deserted, leaving behind an opera house, a large school building, and numerous empty businesses. Today, little remains of the once-bustling town besides a few slag heaps along the old highway. Nevertheless, the Braceville area continues to be home to approximately 800 residents and is home to Mazonia/Braidwood Fish & Wildlife Area, which features quality sport fishing lakes stocked with largemouth and smallmouth bass, bluegill, sunfish, crappie, channel catfish, and bullhead, as well as areas for waterfowl hunting.
Gardner, Illinois: A Roadside Legacy
The next town along this stretch of Route 66 is Gardner. Just before reaching Gardner, after crossing the Mazon River, was the location of the once-popular Riviera Restaurant. Built in 1928 by James Girot, the Riviera was a well-known roadside attraction.
The Riviera Roadhouse, sadly, burned down in June 2010. Reportedly, movie legends Gene Kelly and Tom Mix regularly stopped here, and it was a favorite out-of-the-way joint for Al Capone during his heydays. During Prohibition, the old roadhouse offered liquor and slot machines to discrete travelers. Perhaps the booze was even provided by the infamous bootlegger Al Capone.
Behind the Riviera once stood an old horse-drawn Streetcar Diner over 100 years old. In 1932 George Kaldem purchased the streetcar and moved it to Gardner. Soon it became a simple diner providing good food with just a small sign in front to identify it. It became an unofficial stop on the Greyhound bus line for a while before the diner closed in 1939. In 1955 Gordon Gunderson, James Girot’s son-in-law, purchased the streetcar and moved it to its present location behind the Riviera. The Riviera mostly used the streetcar diner as a storage space until the Illinois Route 66 Preservation Committee discovered it and restored it to its original Route 66 appearance.
The Streetcar Diner was spared from the fire that destroyed the Riviera. It has since been moved into Gardner.
The coal mining towns along Route 66 offer a fascinating glimpse into the history of Illinois and the impact of the coal industry on the region. From the boomtown origins of Braidwood to the rapid decline of Braceville and the roadside attractions of Gardner, these towns each have their own unique stories to tell. As travelers continue down the Mother Road towards Dwight, Odell, and Pontiac, they carry with them a deeper appreciation for the rich and complex history of this iconic American highway. The legacy of the coal mining towns along Route 66 serves as a reminder of the enduring spirit of the communities that shaped the landscape and culture of the region. The coal mining towns along Route 66 are testament of American industry.