Washita Battlefield National Historic Site, Oklahoma
Nestled in the rolling plains of western Oklahoma, near the town of Cheyenne, lies a place of profound historical significance: the Washita Battlefield National Historic Site. This hallowed ground serves as a poignant reminder of a pivotal and tragic event in the history of the American West, the Battle of the Washita. The site stands as a solemn tribute to the lives lost and a place where visitors can contemplate the complex and often painful interactions between the U.S. government, settlers, and Native American tribes during the 19th century.
The Washita Battlefield National Historic Site is more than just a preserved landscape; it is a tangible link to a past marked by cultural clashes, broken treaties, and the struggle for survival. It invites reflection on the consequences of westward expansion and the enduring legacy of the Native American experience. Within its boundaries, the echoes of a tumultuous era resonate, offering a space for learning, remembrance, and understanding.
The story of the Washita Battlefield National Historic Site is inextricably linked to the broader narrative of westward expansion in the United States. During the decades leading up to and following the Civil War, the Great Plains became a stage for intense cultural collision. As settlers pushed westward in search of land and opportunity, they increasingly encroached upon the traditional territories of Native American tribes. The U.S. government, seeking to manage this growing conflict, established the Indian Territory (present-day Oklahoma) with the aim of separating tribes and settlers.
While some Plains tribes reluctantly accepted life on reservations within the Indian Territory, others, including the Cheyenne, Kiowa, and Comanche, resisted these imposed boundaries. They continued to hunt and live on their ancestral lands outside the designated territory, a choice that initially caused little conflict. However, the surge of land-hungry settlers following the Civil War drastically altered the situation. As settlers increasingly penetrated the plains, they began to encroach upon tribal hunting grounds, disrupting traditional ways of life and igniting tensions that would ultimately lead to violence.
The seeds of the Battle of the Washita were sown years before the fateful encounter on the banks of the Washita River. The Washita Battlefield National Historic Site is a direct consequence of previous encounters. One such event, the Sand Creek Massacre of 1864, served as a catalyst for escalating conflict on the Southern Plains. On November 29, 1864, troops under the command of Colonel John Chivington attacked and destroyed the Cheyenne camp of Chief Black Kettle and Chief White Antelope on Sand Creek in Colorado Territory. Black Kettle’s band, flying both an American flag and a white flag, believed themselves to be at peace and under military protection. The massacre, which resulted in the deaths of numerous Cheyenne men, women, and children, sparked outrage and condemnation.
In response to the Sand Creek Massacre, the federal government established a Peace Commission tasked with persuading Plains Indians to abandon their nomadic lifestyles and settle on reservations. This effort culminated in the Medicine Lodge Treaty of October 1867. Under the treaty’s terms, the Arapaho, Cheyenne, Comanche, Kiowa, and Plains Apache were assigned to reservations within the Indian Territory. They were promised permanent homes, farms, agricultural implements, and annuities of food, blankets, and clothing. However, the Medicine Lodge Treaty was ultimately doomed to failure. Many tribal leaders refused to sign, and even those who did often lacked the authority to compel their people to comply with its terms. Young warriors, vehemently opposed to reservation life, continued to raid white settlements in Kansas, further fueling tensions and undermining the treaty’s fragile foundation. The Washita Battlefield National Historic Site stands as a stark reminder of the failures of these treaties.
In response to the ongoing raids, Major General Philip H. Sheridan, commanding the Department of the Missouri, adopted a policy of retribution. He planned a winter campaign to punish the tribes responsible, reasoning that the harsh weather would weaken their horses and limit their ability to escape. Winter, traditionally a time of relative safety for the Plains Indians, would now become a season of vulnerability.
Amidst this escalating conflict, Black Kettle, a respected Southern Cheyenne leader, sought to secure peace for his people. In November 1868, he and Arapaho Chief Big Mouth traveled to Fort Cobb to petition General William B. Hazen for protection. Black Kettle, who had signed both the Little Arkansas Treaty of 1865 and the Medicine Lodge Treaty of 1867, hoped that his commitment to peace would be recognized. However, Hazen informed them that he lacked the authority to grant them refuge at Fort Cobb, directing them to seek permission from General Sheridan or Lieutenant Colonel George Armstrong Custer. Disappointed, Black Kettle and Big Mouth returned to their people, who were wintering along the Washita River.
Unbeknownst to Black Kettle, the 7th Cavalry, under the command of Lieutenant Colonel George Armstrong Custer, was already advancing toward his village. Under orders from Sheridan, Custer had departed from Camp Supply, Indian Territory, on November 23, 1868, with approximately 800 troops. After four days of arduous travel through heavy snow, the command reached the Washita Valley in the early hours of November 27. They silently positioned themselves near the Cheyenne encampment, preparing for an attack. The Washita Battlefield National Historic Site marks the spot where this fateful clash occurred.
Black Kettle, having recently returned from his unsuccessful peace mission to Fort Cobb, had resisted the urging of some members of his band to move their camp closer to larger encampments of Cheyenne, Kiowa, and Apache further downriver. He clung to the belief that Sheridan would not order an attack without first offering an opportunity for negotiation. However, his hopes for peace were shattered at dawn on November 27, when Custer’s troops launched a surprise attack on the sleeping village.
The attack was swift and devastating. Troopers stormed into the village, killing many Cheyenne men, women, and children. While Custer reported approximately 100 Cheyenne killed, Native American accounts suggest that 11 warriors and 19 women and children perished in the assault. More than 50 Cheyenne, primarily women and children, were taken captive. Custer’s losses were relatively light, with 2 officers and 19 enlisted men killed. Most of the soldier casualties occurred when a detachment led by Major Joel Elliott was overrun by Cheyenne, Arapaho, and Kiowa warriors who were rushing to Black Kettle’s aid. Tragically, Chief Black Kettle and his wife were among those killed in the attack.
Following the initial assault, Custer ordered the destruction of the Cheyenne’s winter supplies. The Indian pony and mule herd, estimated at over 800 animals, was slaughtered, and the lodges of Black Kettle’s people, along with their stores of food and clothing, were set ablaze. Realizing that larger numbers of Native American warriors were approaching from the east, Custer feigned an attack toward their camps and then quickly retreated to Camp Supply with his hostages.
The outcome of the engagement at the Washita might have been significantly different if the larger encampments to the east had been located closer to Black Kettle’s village. As it happened, the loss of vital winter supplies and the realization that the cold weather no longer offered protection from attack persuaded many bands to accept reservation life. The Washita Battlefield National Historic Site serves as a reminder of the profound impact of this event on the Native American population.
Today, the Washita Battlefield National Historic Site, managed by the National Park Service, stands as a solemn memorial to the Battle of the Washita. The Visitor Center is open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., except for Christmas and New Year’s Day, offering exhibits and information about the battle and its historical context. The overlook and trail are open every day from dawn until dusk, allowing visitors to walk the grounds where the battle took place and reflect on its significance. Park Rangers also staff the nearby Black Kettle Museum, which is open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, and closed on state holidays.
The Washita Battlefield National Historic Site is located near Cheyenne, Oklahoma, approximately halfway between Amarillo, Texas, and Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Cheyenne is situated approximately 30 miles north of I-40 on Hwy 283 and approximately 20 miles east of the Texas border.
The Washita Battlefield National Historic Site is a place of remembrance, reflection, and learning. It is a place where visitors can connect with the past and gain a deeper understanding of the complex history of the American West and the enduring legacy of the Native American people.