Register Cliff, Wyoming – Historic Guestbook on the Plains
In the vast landscapes of Wyoming, where the echoes of westward expansion still resonate, stands a remarkable landmark known as Register Cliff. This imposing sandstone cliff, located near Guernsey, Wyoming, served as a significant waypoint for countless pioneers traversing the Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails. Rising approximately 100 feet above the North Platte River Valley, Register Cliff, also referred to as Register Rock and Sand Point Station, became a unique historical record, a "guestbook on the plains," where travelers etched their names and messages into the soft sandstone face.
The geological origins of Register Cliff trace back thousands of years. The North Platte River, in its relentless journey, gradually carved through layers of sedimentary deposits, creating the prominent horizontal precipice we see today. This natural formation provided a welcome respite for weary travelers, offering a broad, flat area suitable for campsites and access to the life-sustaining waters of the river.
Before the mass migrations of the mid-19th century, the fertile river bottoms surrounding Register Cliff attracted early fur traders. These intrepid individuals, venturing into the untamed wilderness in search of valuable pelts, were among the first to recognize the strategic importance of the site. One of the earliest known inscriptions on the rock dates back to 1829, marking the passage of these early explorers.
The true significance of Register Cliff emerged with the surge of westward expansion. As thousands of emigrants embarked on the arduous journey to Oregon, California, and the Salt Lake Valley, the cliff became a vital landmark. After the relative security and resupply opportunities of Fort Laramie, Register Cliff was often the first major campsite. The pioneers would often pause here for a day or two, allowing their livestock to graze in the lush pastures and replenishing their supplies before continuing their westward trek.
During this respite, many travelers took the opportunity to leave their mark on the cliff face. Some simply sought to document their passage, etching their names and dates as a testament to their presence. Others used the rock as a primitive form of communication, leaving messages for family and friends who might be following behind. These messages often included updates on their progress, information about trail conditions, or simply expressions of hope and encouragement.
Tragically, the trails were fraught with danger, disease, and death. Many pioneers succumbed to cholera, accidents, or other hardships along the way. Some of the most poignant inscriptions at Register Cliff are those that memorialize loved ones lost during the journey. The names of the deceased, often accompanied by dates of death, serve as a somber reminder of the human cost of westward expansion.
One particularly moving story is that of Alvah Hunt Unthank. The 19-year-old, driven by the allure of the California goldfields, carved his name into the sandstone on June 23, 1850. Just a week later, on July 2, 1850, he tragically died of cholera and was buried in a marked grave near Glenrock, Wyoming. His final resting place remains intact to this day. Years later, Unthank’s relatives followed in his footsteps, signing the rock beneath his name in 1869 and 1931, creating a poignant family connection across time and the landscape.
In addition to its role as a historical marker, Register Cliff also served as a hub of activity. A small trading post was established near the cliff, providing essential supplies and services to travelers. In 1861, it became a Pony Express stop, facilitating the rapid delivery of mail across the vast distances of the West. Later, it functioned as a stage station, further solidifying its importance as a transportation and communication center. Even today, the faint traces of the original Oregon Trail can be seen a short distance below the cliff, a tangible reminder of the wagon trains that once passed through.
The arduous nature of the journey west is further underscored by the presence of a small cemetery near the base of Register Cliff. Three unidentified graves, now protected by an iron fence, serve as a silent testament to the hardships endured by the pioneers. It is estimated that approximately 5,000 emigrants perished along the Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails during the peak years of migration, their graves scattered across the landscape.
Register Cliff is not the only "register rock" in Wyoming. Independence Rock, located 180 miles to the west, and Names Hill, in western Wyoming, also served as important landmarks and inscription sites for travelers. However, Register Cliff stands out due to its accessibility, the density of inscriptions, and its historical significance as a key waypoint on multiple trails.
In the 1890s, Charles A. Guernsey, a prominent cattleman and the namesake of the nearby town of Guernsey, established his ranch near Register Cliff. Guernsey operated the ranch until 1926, when it was sold to the Henry Frederick family. The Fredericks continued the ranching operation, and recognizing the historical significance of the cliff, they took steps to protect it. They even blasted a cave at the base of the cliff to use for potato storage, utilizing the natural insulation of the stone walls. Later, the cave was used for machinery storage.
In 1932, Frederick generously gifted a portion of the Register Cliff Historic Site to the State of Wyoming, ensuring its preservation as a memorial to the pioneers. The site was officially listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1970, further solidifying its importance as a national treasure.
Today, Register Cliff is a Wyoming State Park, offering visitors a unique opportunity to connect with the past. A walkway and informative signs at the base of the cliff provide valuable insights into the history of the site and the stories of the people who passed through. While erosion, vandalism, and the passage of time have taken their toll, many of the original inscriptions remain visible, offering a tangible link to the pioneers who shaped the American West.
Just a few miles west of Register Cliff, near Guernsey State Park, lies another significant Oregon Trail site known as Deep Rut Hill. Here, the deep wagon ruts etched into the landscape provide a stark visual representation of the immense traffic and the relentless wear and tear on the trail.
A visit to Register Cliff is more than just a sightseeing trip; it is a journey back in time. It is an opportunity to reflect on the courage, resilience, and sacrifices of the pioneers who braved the challenges of the Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails, leaving their indelible mark on the landscape and the history of the American West.