Quapaw & Commerce – Entering Indian Territory on Route 66
The allure of Route 66, the "Mother Road," continues to beckon travelers with its promise of Americana and a glimpse into a bygone era. As the highway weaves its way westward, it crosses state lines, each segment offering a unique tapestry of history, culture, and landscape. Just a few miles after crossing from Kansas into Oklahoma, travelers encounter the small towns of Quapaw and Commerce, each holding its own intriguing stories within the larger narrative of the Sooner State and the historic highway. This stretch of Route 66 offers a fascinating look into the past, revealing tales of Native American heritage, mining booms, infamous outlaws, and baseball legends.
Emerging from the Kansas prairie, the first Oklahoman community that Route 66 pilgrims encounter is Quapaw, a town steeped in history and named after the Quapaw Tribe, whose ancestral lands were originally located in Arkansas. This quaint town, with a population hovering around a thousand residents, offers a glimpse into a past shaped by agriculture, industry, and the enduring spirit of its namesake people. The journey through Quapaw is more than just a drive; it’s an immersion into a rich historical narrative.
Quapaw: A Town Forged in Prairie Grass and Mineral Wealth
The landscape surrounding Quapaw is dominated by the undulating expanse of tall prairie grasses, a testament to the region’s agricultural heritage. At the dawn of the 20th century, the town thrived as a vital hub for hay shipping, contributing significantly to the regional economy. As the decades unfolded, cattle grazing and the establishment of sprawling ranches became increasingly important, further solidifying the town’s agricultural identity.
However, the true catalyst for Quapaw‘s growth and prosperity was the discovery and exploitation of its rich mineral deposits. As early as 1897, whispers of zinc and lead deposits began to circulate, igniting a mining boom that would dramatically reshape the town’s destiny. The years 1917 and 1918 marked the zenith of this era, a period of unparalleled economic expansion that brought considerable wealth to many, including members of the Quapaw Tribe who received substantial royalties from the mining operations.
The Dark Horse Mine, inaugurated in 1904, quickly ascended to become the cornerstone of Quapaw‘s economy. Its operations fueled the town’s growth and provided employment for countless residents. However, the fortunes of Quapaw were inextricably linked to the fluctuating demands of the global market. Following the conclusion of World War I, the demand for zinc and lead experienced a sharp decline, plunging the town into a period of economic hardship. The once-booming community gradually transitioned into a fading mining town, a fate shared by many other communities in the tri-state area.
Despite the decline of its mining industry, Quapaw retains a certain charm and historical significance that makes it a worthwhile stop for travelers along Route 66. The town’s buildings are adorned with captivating murals that depict scenes from its past, providing a visual narrative of its history and culture. These murals serve as a testament to the community’s resilience and its commitment to preserving its heritage.
Adding to the town’s mystique is the legend of the Spook Light, a mysterious dancing ball of light that has been observed for decades on a bluff known as Devil’s Promenade. While the Spook Light is technically located in the Quapaw area, its visibility is best from locations east of the town, leading to its common association with Joplin and Hornet, Missouri. The phenomenon continues to intrigue and confound, attracting curiosity seekers and adding a touch of the supernatural to the region’s allure.
For those fortunate enough to pass through Quapaw on the Fourth of July, a unique cultural experience awaits. The town hosts the oldest Indian Pow-Wow in the United States at Beaver Springs State Park. This annual celebration, which has been held for over 130 years, offers a vibrant showcase of Native American traditions, including dancing, music, food, and crafts. The Pow-Wow is a testament to the enduring cultural heritage of the Quapaw Tribe and a captivating spectacle for visitors of all backgrounds.
Commerce: From Mining Town to Baseball Mecca
Continuing along Route 66, just a short six-mile jaunt from Quapaw, travelers encounter the town of Commerce, Oklahoma. As the road stretches onward, the landscape is punctuated by man-made mountains of chat, remnants of the region’s once-thriving lead and zinc mining operations. These artificial hills stand as silent sentinels, bearing witness to the area’s industrial past and the transformative impact of mining on the local environment.
Beyond its mining legacy, Commerce is also associated with a darker chapter in American history. The town was the site of a notorious encounter involving the infamous outlaws Bonnie and Clyde. In April 1934, while fleeing from a crime scene in Grapevine, Texas, their car became mired in the mud near Commerce. In their desperation, they attempted to commandeer a passing vehicle at gunpoint. The motorist managed to escape and alerted local law enforcement. Police Chief Percy Boyd and Constable Cal Campbell responded to the scene, but their arrival was met with violence. Cal Campbell was fatally shot, and Chief Percy Boyd was kidnapped, though he was later released unharmed. This incident marked a turning point in the saga of Bonnie and Clyde, as they met their demise less than a month later.
However, Commerce is also celebrated for a far more positive reason: it was the boyhood home of baseball legend Mickey Mantle. In the late 1940s, Mantle honed his skills playing for the Baxter Springs Whiz Kids, a local baseball team. In 1949, while playing a game in Baxter Springs, Mantle unleashed a prodigious hit that sent the ball soaring into the Spring River. This remarkable feat caught the attention of Tom Greenwade, a scout for the New York Yankees. Impressed by Mantle’s raw talent and potential, Greenwade signed him to play for the Yankees, launching his illustrious career.
Mantle’s legacy is deeply ingrained in the fabric of Commerce. His childhood home, located at 319 S. Quincy Street, still stands as a testament to his humble beginnings. The leaning shed where he practiced his batting and throwing remains a poignant reminder of his dedication and perseverance. In 2010, the town of Commerce erected a statue of Mantle in a powerful batting stance next to Mickey Mantle Field at Commerce High School, forever immortalizing their hometown hero. The statue stands proudly along a newer alignment of Route 66 on the south side of town, inviting visitors to pay homage to one of baseball’s greatest players.
A mere five miles further along the meandering path of Route 66 lies the town of Miami, Oklahoma, marking the next chapter in the traveler’s journey through the heartland of America. The combined experience of visiting Quapaw and Commerce provides a rich and layered understanding of Oklahoma’s history and the enduring legacy of Route 66.