Camp Nichols, Oklahoma
Camp Nichols, Oklahoma, a site steeped in the history of the American West, once stood as a vital, albeit short-lived, military outpost. Also known as Fort Nichols or Camp Nichols Ranch, this historical fortification was strategically located approximately 3.5 miles northwest of the modern town of Wheeless, Oklahoma, a seemingly remote location that played a significant role in the protection of westward expansion during the mid-19th century.
The story of Camp Nichols, Oklahoma, begins in May 1865, amidst the waning days of the American Civil War. General James H. Carleton, a prominent figure as the commander of the Department of New Mexico, recognized the pressing need for a secure route across the vast expanse of the Southwest. He tasked the legendary Colonel Christopher "Kit" Carson, a name synonymous with frontier exploration, trapping, and military service, with a critical mission: to establish a halfway post along the vital trade routes connecting Fort Dodge, Kansas, and Fort Union, New Mexico.
This new establishment, Camp Nichols, Oklahoma, was designed to serve as the western terminus of the Aubry Route, a shortcut off the main Santa Fe Trail. Its primary purpose was to safeguard the countless wagon trains laden with goods and settlers, traversing the perilous Cimarron and Aubry routes. These routes were particularly vulnerable to raids by various Native American tribes who were fiercely protective of their ancestral lands and wary of the encroaching tide of westward expansion.
The physical location of Camp Nichols, Oklahoma, was carefully chosen for its strategic advantages. The post occupied a 40,000-square-foot area situated on elevated ground nestled between the two forks of South Carrizozo Creek. This elevated position offered a commanding view of the surrounding landscape, allowing for early detection of approaching threats. The camp was located approximately one-half mile north of the Santa Fe Trail itself, allowing for easy access and efficient protection of passing wagon trains. Furthermore, its proximity to Cedar Spring, a reliable water source, was crucial for the survival of both the soldiers stationed there and the travelers who relied on the post for respite and resupply.
The post’s construction is believed to have been named in honor of Captain Charles P. Nichols of the First California Cavalry, though the official record remains somewhat ambiguous. The camp itself was enclosed by sturdy native stone walls, meticulously constructed by the soldiers themselves. These walls formed a protective perimeter around the parade ground, providing a secure inner sanctum for the daily activities and defense of the post.
Accounts suggest that Camp Nichols, Oklahoma, consisted of approximately 25 buildings, reflecting the diverse needs of a functioning military outpost. These structures included officer’s quarters, providing comfortable living spaces for the commanding officers, as well as barracks to house the enlisted soldiers. Initially, however, many soldiers lived in tents fortified with stone walls, highlighting the urgency of establishing a presence even before permanent structures could be completed. Several guardhouses were strategically positioned to maintain vigilance and security. The commissary, responsible for storing and distributing supplies, stood out as the most prominent building, underscoring the importance of logistics in sustaining the garrison. All buildings were constructed using locally sourced materials, primarily sandstone, adobe, and sod, reflecting the resourcefulness of the soldiers and the limitations of the frontier environment.
The construction and manning of Camp Nichols, Oklahoma, were entrusted to three companies of New Mexico and California volunteers. These men were responsible for escorting wagon trains along the Santa Fe Trail, providing armed protection against potential attacks. Their primary adversaries were the Kiowa, Comanche, Cheyenne, and Arapaho Indians, tribes renowned for their equestrian skills and their determination to defend their territories. The soldiers of Camp Nichols served as a crucial deterrent, ensuring the safe passage of settlers and goods across the challenging landscape.
Lieutenant Richard Russell and his wife, Marion, arrived at the post in June 1865, just a couple of weeks after the initial construction began. Marion’s firsthand observations provide valuable insights into the living conditions and daily life at Camp Nichols. She noted that the soldiers constructed numerous stone-walled dugouts with dirt floors and roofs supported by logs. These dugouts, with their inherent insulation, offered a degree of protection from the harsh weather extremes of the Oklahoma plains. The stone walls of the dugouts formed a perimeter, further reinforced by a moat, creating a secure compound within the larger camp. These structures served various purposes, including housing the seven officers stationed at the post and providing a space for a rudimentary hospital. Approximately 300 soldiers resided in tents and dugouts within the enclosure, creating a bustling community amidst the desolate landscape. The camp also included ten Indian scouts, two Indian women, and two laundresses, who were the wives of Hispanic soldiers, reflecting the diverse makeup of the frontier population. Wagon trains departing from New Mexico would assemble at Camp Nichols, approximately 130 miles east of Fort Union, before being escorted by detachments of troops to the Arkansas River, ensuring their safe passage through potentially hostile territory.
Despite its strategic importance and the significant effort invested in its construction, Camp Nichols’ active life was remarkably short. Wagon trains frequently stopped there, seeking rest, supplies, and protection. However, Camp Nichols never officially achieved the status of a "fort" in the formal military sense.
Camp Nichols was abandoned by the Army in November 1865, a mere few months after its establishment. The decision to abandon the post was largely attributed to a perceived decrease in Indian raids along the Santa Fe Trail. With the perceived threat diminished, the military resources were redeployed to other areas deemed more critical.
Camp Nichols holds the distinction of being the only military site located on the Santa Fe Trail within the present-day boundaries of Oklahoma. This unique status underscores its historical significance and its contribution to the westward expansion of the United States.
Today, little remains of the once-bustling Camp Nichols. Only a scattering of tumbled stones marks the location where soldiers once stood guard and wagon trains sought refuge. Despite its fleeting existence, Camp Nichols was recognized for its historical importance and placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1966. However, the site is located on private property and is, unfortunately, not accessible to the public. The ruins themselves occupy a high point of land nestled between the ravines carved by the forks of South Carrizozo Creek. The surrounding topography is rugged and untamed, bestowing upon the site a sense of scenic beauty enhanced by its isolation and lack of modern intrusions.
Cedar Spring, which served as the primary water source for both the camp and passing wagon trains, lies approximately one-quarter mile west of the ruins, nestled in the shadow of cedar-covered bluffs. One-half mile south of the camp, visitors can still find remarkable remains of the Cimarron Cutoff of the Santa Fe Trail. These remnants vary from deeply eroded ruts on steep slopes to shallow troughs, sometimes spanning 30 to 40 feet across and one or two feet deep. They trace sweeping curves around rocky outcrops and descend and ascend the banks of stream courses. These trail remains are among the most impressive and well-preserved along the entire length of the Santa Fe Trail, offering a tangible link to the past and a glimpse into the challenges faced by those who traversed this historic route.