Dryden, Texas – Dying Along the Railroad
Nestled within the vast expanse of Terrell County, Dryden, Texas, a locale with a population hovering around a mere dozen residents, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West, even as time and circumstance have conspired to fade its once-promising luster. This tiny community, one of only two in a county that sprawls across 2,358 square miles of the rugged Chihuahuan Desert, offers a poignant glimpse into a bygone era, an era intrinsically linked to the iron horse and the boundless dreams it carried. Terrell County itself, characterized by its sprawling sheep and cattle ranches, echoes the sparseness of Dryden, with a population density that underscores the challenges and resilience of life in this remote corner of Texas.
Before the arrival of settlers and the establishment of communities like Dryden, Texas, the land served as a hunting ground and territory for various Native American tribes. Evidence of their presence is scattered across the landscape, whispering tales of ancient lives through the artifacts they left behind: arrowheads, tools, pictographs etched onto cliff walls, and burial sites discovered within the region’s numerous caves. These relics serve as a powerful reminder of the deep history embedded within this land, predating the arrival of European explorers and settlers by centuries.
The exploration of this region by Europeans began in 1729, when Spanish Captain Jose de Berroteran led an expedition on behalf of the Spanish Empire. His mission was to chart the course from Mission San Juan Bautista along the Rio Grande, extending to the confluence of the Rio Conchos. This early venture marked the initial forays of Europeans into this remote area, laying the groundwork for future exploration and settlement. Later, under the command of John Coffee Hays, Captain Samuel Highsmith traversed the county in 1848, blazing a trail for a road that would eventually connect San Antonio and El Paso. Further expeditions, such as those led by Lieutenant William Echols in 1859 with the U.S. Camel Corps, sought to discover shorter routes to Fort Davis, highlighting the strategic importance of this region in the westward expansion of the United States.
The true genesis of both Dryden and the county seat of Sanderson can be traced to the ambitious endeavor of constructing the Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad. In 1882, as the iron rails snaked their way through Terrell County, these settlements were born, their fates inextricably intertwined with the fortunes of the railroad. Dryden owes its name to Eugene E. Dryden, the chief engineer of the railroad, a fitting tribute to the man whose vision helped bring the community into existence. Beginning with a simple railroad section house, the town quickly evolved into a vital hub for the surrounding ranching enterprises, with the establishment of companies like the Pecos Land and Cattle Company in 1884 solidifying its role as a commercial center.
W. W. Simonds, the manager of the Pecos Land and Cattle Company, played a pivotal role in the early development of Dryden. In 1886, he erected a large frame building that housed a post office, a general store, and living quarters for his family and the ranch foreman. The company also invested in drilling a water well, providing a crucial resource for the burgeoning community. By 1888, a formal post office was officially established, marking a significant milestone in the town’s development.
Beverly Carter Farley, another key figure in Dryden‘s history, arrived the following year to work for the Pecos Land and Cattle Company. After the company’s sale in 1895, Farley acquired several sections of land and established his own ranching operation. In 1908, he further contributed to the town’s infrastructure by constructing the Dryden Hotel and a general store, providing essential services for residents and travelers alike. In 1912, the community came together to build a combined schoolhouse, community center, and church, serving as a focal point for education, social gatherings, and spiritual life.
However, the tranquility of Dryden, Texas, was shattered on March 13, 1912, when it became the stage for one of the last train robberies in Texas history. On the evening of March 12, Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad Train No. 9 departed from Del Rio, Texas, with engineer D. E. Grosh at the helm. Shortly before midnight, the train made a scheduled stop in Dryden to replenish its water supply. As the train prepared to depart, notorious outlaws Ben Kilpatrick and Ole Hobek stealthily boarded the engine.
The masked men, brandishing their weapons, instructed the engineer to proceed to the first iron bridge east of Baxter’s Curve, situated roughly halfway between Dryden and Sanderson. Upon reaching the designated location, the bandits ordered the train to be halted, and the passenger cars and caboose were uncoupled from the engine, mail, and baggage cars. With the passenger cars isolated, the engine, carrying the ill-fated cargo, continued across the bridge and approximately half a mile further down the tracks. There, the robbers had strategically positioned horses, waiting for their escape. The train was ordered to stop once more, and the audacious holdup commenced.
While Ole Hobek kept a watchful eye on the engineer, Ben Kilpatrick ventured back to the baggage car, accompanied by David Trousdale, the Wells-Fargo express agent assigned to the train. As the pair passed a shipment of iced oysters, Trousdale cunningly seized an ice mallet and concealed it beneath his clothing. Kilpatrick proceeded to fill a bag with approximately $60,000, but as he prepared to make his exit, Trousdale struck him forcefully on the head with the ice mallet, killing him instantly. Armed with the bandit’s weapon, Trousdale then confronted Hobek, who had grown impatient and came searching for his partner. A swift exchange ensued, and Trousdale fatally shot Hobek.
The official record marks the time of the robbery at 12:05 a.m. Following the dramatic confrontation, the engineer reversed the train, reconnected the passenger cars, and continued onward to Sanderson. Agent Trousdale assisted in unloading the lifeless bodies and surrendered the six weapons that the robbers had been carrying. The remains of Ben Kilpatrick and Ole Hobek were displayed for photographs before being laid to rest in a shared grave at the Cedar Grove Cemetery in Sanderson.
Ben Kilpatrick, also known as “The Tall Texan,” had previously gained notoriety as a member of the Wild Bunch, led by Butch Cassidy and Thomas “Black Jack” Ketchum. Ole Hobek, also known under the aliases Ed Welch, Ed Walsh, and Ed Beck, reportedly met Kilpatrick while both were serving time at the Federal Penitentiary in Atlanta, Georgia, for robbery. Kilpatrick was released in 1911 after serving ten years of a 15-year sentence for his involvement in the Hole in the Wall Gang robbery of the Great Northern train outside of Wagner, Montana, in July of 1901. Wells-Fargo Agent David Trousdale was lauded for his bravery, receiving an award of over $2,500 and a gold watch in recognition of his heroic actions.
The year following the infamous train robbery brought further excitement to Dryden when two units of U.S. Troops were stationed there to address the unrest along the Mexican border during the Mexican Revolution. Despite the border tensions, Mexican ranchers continued to frequent Dryden, utilizing its facilities for shipping cattle, receiving mail, and procuring essential supplies. The locals had long been accustomed to the presence of Mexican visitors, and the soldiers remained stationed in the town until 1917.
In 1917, the Block Y Ranch, based in San Antonio, expanded its operations to Dryden, initiating cattle shipments from the town. As employees were relocated, new houses and a headquarters building were constructed to accommodate the growing workforce. However, the ranch owner, Julian Marcus Bassett, faced challenges in his endeavor and relocated to Gila, New Mexico, in 1928. Nevertheless, he returned to Dryden in 1930 and operated a store until the end of the decade.
By 1929, Dryden had reached a population of 100 residents. However, the onset of the Great Depression brought significant hardship, as the railroad closed the depot and relocated its crews. Consequently, many of the large area ranches were forced to break up and sell their holdings. The increasing prevalence of automobiles allowed local ranchers to travel to larger towns for supplies, further diminishing Dryden‘s role as a commercial center. By the 1930s, the town’s population had dwindled to just 50 residents and three businesses. While it experienced a brief resurgence in population by the end of the 1940s, it declined again by the 1960s, reporting only two businesses and 50 inhabitants.
Today, Dryden stands as a shadow of its former self, with only a handful of residents and numerous ruins serving as silent witnesses to its vibrant past. Approximately 12 miles north of Dryden lies a historic oasis known as Meyers Spring. This spring, situated amidst the arid, rocky terrain, has been utilized by people since prehistoric times. A rock shelter near the spring features walls adorned with Indian pictographs. The spring emerges from a bluff wall approximately 30 yards above the shelter. Believed to contain pictographs from various indigenous peoples, dating back as far as 3,000 years, the site was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1972.
The pictographs are considered among the most valuable in North America, representing at least three distinct time periods. Arrowheads and other artifacts found at the spring provide evidence of continuous occupation from prehistoric to historic periods. In more recent history, the Comanche were known to use the spring as a hunting camp for several months each fall until the late 1870s. Some of the pictographs depict battles between the Comanche and the Apache. Additionally, the pictographs showcase early Spanish explorers attempting to introduce Christianity, with images of a priest and a church.
Meyers Spring also served as an intermittent garrison for U.S. Army troops from Fort Clark in Brackettville, beginning around 1873. Initially, the site consisted of a tent campsite, but around 1880, it evolved into a more permanent camp with the construction of approximately 15 one-room adobe huts. The most renowned of the army occupants was the “Black Watch,” comprised of Black Seminole Indian Scouts led by Lieutenant (later Brigadier General) John Bullis. These scouts patrolled the area to safeguard the water supply and protect area settlers from Indian attacks, playing a crucial role in guiding cavalry forces to the Indians. A settler’s stone house was also constructed nearby around 1884. Troops evacuated the site in 1885. Bullis returned to the spring some 20 years later and erected a water tank, which remains standing to this day.
The Camp Meyers site underwent excavation by Texas Tech University from 2007 to 2009. The Bullis Camp Site is also listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Both Camp Meyers and the pictograph site are located on private land known as the Meyers Spring Ranch. Tours are offered several times throughout the year through the Rock Art Foundation, based in San Antonio, which collaborates with the landowner in stewardship efforts.
Though Dryden, Texas may be fading from the map, its story remains a compelling testament to the enduring spirit of the West, a story etched in the landscape and whispered on the wind.