Fort Burgwin, New Mexico – Protecting the Taos Valley
Nestled approximately six miles south of Ranchos de Taos, New Mexico, lies the historical site of Fort Burgwin, also known as Cantonment Burgwin. This military outpost, initially established in 1852, served a crucial role in safeguarding the Taos Valley from the threats posed by Ute and Jicarilla Apache warriors. However, the story of this land extends far beyond the mid-19th century, with archaeological evidence revealing a rich tapestry of prehistoric occupation dating back as far as 1000 AD.
The very ground upon which Fort Burgwin stands bears witness to millennia of human activity. Before the arrival of European settlers and the establishment of a military presence, the area was home to the Pot Creek Pueblo, a significant settlement in the northern Rio Grande Valley. This large prehistoric site consisted of approximately 300 ground-floor rooms and is believed to have been occupied from 1200 to 1350 AD. Imagine a bustling community, its inhabitants engaged in agriculture, trade, and the daily rhythms of life, all within the shadow of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.
The story of Fort Burgwin then fades into a period of abandonment. By the time Lieutenant Hernando de Alvarado, a member of Coronado’s Expedition, arrived in 1540, the Pot Creek Pueblo was deserted. The reasons for its abandonment remain a subject of scholarly debate, with factors such as environmental changes, resource depletion, and intertribal conflict likely playing a role. Regardless, the silent ruins stood as a testament to a bygone era, awaiting the next chapter in the region’s history.
Approximately ten miles north of Fort Burgwin lies the town of Taos, a settlement with its own deep roots, established in 1615. The presence of the Taos Pueblo, an ancient and continuously inhabited Native American settlement, with its long-standing trade networks, along with the establishment of a mission, and the availability of abundant water, timber, and game, quickly drew early Spanish settlers to the area. The convergence of these cultures, however, was not without its challenges.
The Spanish settlers, with their authoritarian ways and imposition of religious beliefs, soon found themselves in conflict with the Taos Pueblo. This tension culminated in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, a coordinated uprising planned in secret meetings centered at the Taos Pueblo. Several Pueblo communities launched a coordinated attack in August 1680, assaulting several Spanish settlements. Pueblo warriors, numbering more than 8,000, killed 21 Franciscan friars, over 400 Spaniards, and drove approximately 1,000 settlers out of the region. The revolt marked a significant turning point in the history of the Southwest, demonstrating the resilience and determination of the Pueblo people to defend their traditions and way of life.
Despite the initial success of the Pueblo Revolt, the Spanish did eventually return. Diego de Vargas led a re-conquest of New Mexico in 1692, reasserting Spanish control over the region. An uneasy peace prevailed until 1847, when the people of Taos once again rose in rebellion. This rebellion was a direct response to the changing political landscape and the increasing encroachment of American settlers into the area.
The election of James K. Polk as president in 1845 marked a turning point for New Mexico. Polk, an advocate of Manifest Destiny, encouraged pioneers to migrate into the fertile and largely unoccupied territories of Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Oregon, and California. This westward expansion led to disputes with Mexico over control of the Southwest, ultimately leading to the Mexican-American War of 1846-1848. The people of Taos, realizing the potential consequences of unchecked American immigration, began to organize resistance against the United States government. This resistance culminated in the Taos Revolt.
On the morning of January 19, 1847, the Taos Revolt erupted. Led by Pablo Montoya, a Hispanic man, and Tomasito, a Taos Indian, the insurrectionists targeted symbols of American authority. Among those killed was Charles Bent, the newly appointed Governor of New Mexico. The U.S. military responded swiftly and decisively, crushing the revolt. U.S. troops retaliated, killing some Indians, destroying the San Geronimo Mission at the Taos Pueblo, and executing 16 Indians for their part in the revolt.
In the aftermath of the Taos Revolt, an uneasy calm settled over New Mexico. While the local population largely acquiesced to American rule, the Ute and Jicarilla Apache tribes continued to pose a threat, raiding settlements and disrupting the lives of early settlers. It was against this backdrop that Fort Burgwin was established on August 16, 1852.
Named in honor of Captain John Burgwin, who lost his life in the Taos Revolt of 1847, Fort Burgwin was strategically located at the confluence of the Rito de la Olla (Pot Creek) and the Little Rio Grande. This location was chosen for several reasons: it stood along the main wagon road connecting Santa Fe and Taos, providing a crucial link for trade and communication; it offered access to fertile grazing land for livestock, essential for sustaining a military post; and it provided a vantage point from which to monitor and respond to potential threats from the surrounding area.
The initial construction of Fort Burgwin was overseen by Lieutenant Robert Ransom, Jr., who directed the building of barracks, stables, offices, a mess hall, and storehouses. Designed primarily for defense, the fort featured a single gate and lacked windows in its outer walls. The buildings, constructed of logs with thick clay roofs, were enclosed within a formidable, windowless wall measuring 120’ x 220’. This design reflected the constant threat of attack and the need to create a secure and defensible position. Outside the main fort walls, additional structures were later added, including officers’ quarters, a small dispensary, a guardhouse, and accommodations for laundresses. A private citizen even established a sutler’s store just across Pot Creek, providing essential goods and services to the soldiers stationed at the fort.
The military history of Fort Burgwin is marked by a series of engagements with Native American tribes. The first major campaign began in February 1854, when a group of Ute Indians raided the settlement at Culebra, north of Taos, and stole 30 horses. Army dragoons, under the command of Brevet Major Thompson and Lieutenant John W. Davidson, pursued the Ute into the San Luis Valley and the mountains of southern Colorado. However, harsh weather conditions forced them to abandon the pursuit.
The troops stationed at Fort Burgwin faced a more significant challenge at the Battle of Cieneguilla on March 30, 1854. This battle, fought near Cieneguilla Creek in the Moreno Valley east of Taos, resulted in a significant defeat for the U.S. Army. The soldiers, caught by surprise by the Jicarilla Apache, suffered heavy casualties, with 22 killed, 23 wounded, and 45 horses lost. The Santa Fe Weekly Gazette described the battle as "one of the severest battles that ever took place between American troops and Indians."
Following the Battle of Cieneguilla, the Jicarilla Apache pursued the retreating troops back to Fort Burgwin, even managing to steal a number of horses. While the livestock was eventually recovered, the incident heightened fears of an imminent attack on the fort or the town of Taos.
Fort Burgwin became the headquarters for a major retaliatory campaign against the Jicarilla Apache. Additional troops were brought in from Fort Union, and local residents were hired as spies and trackers. Under the command of Colonel Philip St. George Cooke, and with Kit Carson serving as their chief guide, a force of approximately 200 men from the First Dragoons and Second Artillery began tracking the Apache in April. The soldiers and Apache fought until the Indians fled into the mountains, leaving behind a number of women and children. The Indian camp was then burned and the soldiers continued the pursuit for a time. However, they soon returned to the fort.
Despite these efforts, Apache attacks continued throughout the region. By 1860, however, the majority of Native American tribes had been relocated to reservations. With the perceived threat diminished, the need for Fort Burgwin lessened. The troops were transferred to Fort Union, New Mexico, and Fort Garland, Colorado, and the fort was abandoned.
Following its abandonment, Fort Burgwin fell into disrepair and was largely forgotten for nearly a century. However, in the mid-1950s, the property was acquired by Ralph Rounds, a businessman and amateur archaeologist. Recognizing the historical significance of the site, Rounds enlisted the help of Fred Wendorf, an archaeologist from Southern Methodist University’s Department of Anthropology. Together, with the assistance of students, they located the remnants of the old log fort, excavated the site, and undertook a reconstruction effort.
Today, the reconstructed Fort Burgwin and the adjacent Pot Creek Pueblo, a 13th-century Ancient Puebloan site, are part of the SMU Campus, serving as an Archaeological Field School. The site, located at 6580 Highway 518 in Ranchos de Taos, New Mexico, offers visitors a glimpse into the rich and complex history of the Taos Valley. From its prehistoric roots to its role in the Indian Wars, Fort Burgwin stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of the American Southwest.