Fort Yellowstone, Wyoming – Preserving the First National Park
Yellowstone National Park, a sprawling testament to nature’s grandeur, was established in 1872, marking a pivotal moment in American conservation history. However, the early years of this pristine wilderness were marred by neglect and exploitation. Before the establishment of the National Park Service in 1916, the responsibility for safeguarding this natural treasure fell upon the United States Army, ushering in an era defined by military governance and the establishment of Fort Yellowstone.
The story of Fort Yellowstone is inextricably linked to the early struggles of managing the nascent national park. Nathaniel P. Langford, appointed as the first superintendent in 1872, faced an impossible task. Without a salary or adequate resources, Langford could only visit the park twice during his five-year term. Subsequent superintendents fared little better, struggling against rampant poaching, vandalism, and the encroaching development of tourist camps. The lack of experience, funding, and sufficient manpower rendered these early administrators largely ineffective in protecting Yellowstone’s delicate ecosystem.
The dire situation prompted a significant shift in management. In August 1886, the U.S. Army stepped in, dispatching Company M of the First United States Cavalry from Fort Custer, Montana Territory, under the command of Captain Moses Harris. This marked the beginning of a 30-year military presence in Yellowstone, a period that would prove crucial in preserving the park’s natural wonders. Initially, the troops were housed in temporary structures at Camp Sheridan, situated at the base of the Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces. The harsh reality of enduring five unforgiving winters made it clear that a more permanent solution was needed.
In 1890, Congress finally allocated $50,000 for the construction of a permanent military post. By late 1891, Fort Yellowstone was completed, providing a stable base of operations for the troops tasked with protecting the park. As the military presence grew, so did the fort, with the addition of essential buildings such as officers’ quarters, a guardhouse, headquarters, stables, barracks for enlisted men, and non-commissioned officers’ quarters. These structures formed the core of the fort, a symbol of the Army’s commitment to preserving Yellowstone’s integrity.
The Army’s role extended beyond simply providing a physical presence. In the winter of 1894, soldiers apprehended the notorious poacher Ed Howell while he was killing buffalo. This incident, though seemingly isolated, proved to be a turning point. The public outcry over Howell’s actions spurred Congress to pass the Lacey Act, a landmark piece of legislation designed to protect Yellowstone National Park’s birds and animals and punish crimes committed within its boundaries. The Lacey Act stands as a testament to the Army’s influence in shaping the legal framework for national park protection.
The Army Corps of Engineers also played a vital role in developing Yellowstone’s infrastructure. In 1903, a dedicated headquarters building was constructed for the Corps, which was responsible for building and maintaining the park’s roads and bridges. Over the course of their tenure, the engineers constructed over 400 miles of roads, a hydroelectric power plant to supply electricity to the fort’s buildings, and a reliable water system. These infrastructure improvements not only enhanced the Army’s ability to manage the park but also laid the groundwork for future tourism and development.
As the Army’s presence in Yellowstone solidified, the architectural landscape of Fort Yellowstone continued to evolve. In 1909, Scottish masons began constructing distinctive sandstone buildings using materials sourced from a local quarry situated between the Gardner River and the Mammoth Campground. These structures included the Bachelor Officers’ Quarters, which now serves as the Albright Visitor Center; two-troop barracks capable of housing 200 men, which now functions as the park’s administration building; and the Chapel, the last of these sandstone structures to be completed in 1913. Prior to the Chapel’s construction, religious services were held in various locations, including the troop mess hall, the post exchange, and even private residences. Today, the Chapel continues to serve the community, standing as a tangible reminder of the fort’s rich history.
By 1910, the Army’s presence in Yellowstone had reached its peak, with 324 soldiers, along with their families and numerous civilian employees, stationed at Fort Yellowstone and various outposts throughout the park. These troops diligently patrolled the vast wilderness, deterring poachers, preventing vandalism, and enforcing the park’s regulations. To facilitate these patrols, the Army established a network of backcountry outposts, typically spaced about 16 miles apart, representing a day’s travel by horseback.
These backcountry cabins were built in a rustic "Rocky Mountain" style, featuring sod roofs and dirt floors. Typically located on the edge of relatively flat meadows, each cabin contained one or two rooms that served as sleeping, cooking, and work areas. Several of these backcountry cabins still stand today, having been updated with shingled roofs and concrete floors. These cabins, accessible only by foot or horseback, continue to be used by the National Park Service for backcountry patrols, preserving a vital link to the park’s past.
Despite the demanding nature of their duties, Fort Yellowstone was considered a desirable assignment by many officers and enlisted men. The post offered good facilities, a more relaxed disciplinary environment, and the opportunity to experience the unique natural surroundings of Yellowstone. However, this did not diminish the soldiers’ commitment to protecting the park. They were instructed to "conduct themselves in a courteous and polite, but firm and decided manner" when carrying out their responsibilities.
As the nation’s understanding of the importance of national parks grew, so did the call for a dedicated agency to manage them. In 1912, President Taft, in a special message to Congress, advocated for the establishment of a Bureau of National Parks, stating that "Such legislation is essential to properly managing those wonderful manifestations of nature, so startling and so beautiful that everyone recognizes the government’s obligations to preserve them for the improvement and recreation of the people."
On August 25, 1916, the National Park Service Act was signed into law, marking a new era in the management of America’s national treasures. Soon after, soldiers were discharged from the Army and formed the first ranks of park rangers and a maintenance force. On October 1, 1916, the National Park Service officially took over the protection of Yellowstone National Park "by arrangement with the War Department, and with its hearty cooperation." Although local opposition led to one final period of Army residency, the National Park Service assumed full administrative responsibilities in 1918.
Today, the Army’s legacy remains visible in the wood and stone of Fort Yellowstone, and the very survival of Yellowstone National Park stands as a powerful symbol of the National Park idea. Conservationists recognize that Fort Yellowstone played a crucial role in defining how National Parks were to be managed. During the Army’s tenure, they developed regulations that emphasized conservation, protecting the park’s features and wildlife from vandalism and extinction. The National Park Service later adopted many of these policies, ensuring the continuity of effective management practices.
The old post is now the Fort Yellowstone-Mammoth Hot Springs Historic District, a designated National Historic Landmark since July 31, 2003. This district serves as the administrative headquarters for Yellowstone National Park and is located in the northwestern portion of the park on an old hot springs formation.
Many buildings from Fort Yellowstone‘s era, including the Captain’s Quarters, Post Headquarters, Guard House, Hospital Annex, Commissary, and Quartermaster storehouses, are still standing. A self-guiding trail guides visitors to these historic structures, providing a glimpse into the fort’s rich past.
Contact Information:
Yellowstone National Park
P.O. Box 168
Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming 82190-0168
307-344-7381