Needles – Gateway To California
Nestled in the arid landscape of southeastern California, where the Mojave Desert meets the Colorado River, lies the city of Needles. More than just a dot on the map, Needles serves as a historic gateway to California, a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West, and a place where ancient history intertwines with the allure of the open road. Long before the arrival of European settlers and the rumble of locomotives, this valley resonated with the presence of the Mojave Indians. For millennia, they called this land home, leaving behind a legacy etched in petroglyphs, pictographs, and the silent whispers of old trails that crisscross the terrain. Today, many members of the Fort Mojave Indian Tribe still reside in the area, carrying on the traditions of their ancestors. The land itself speaks volumes, a palimpsest of human history waiting to be deciphered by those who take the time to look.
The genesis of the modern city of Needles can be traced back to 1883, a pivotal year when the relentless push of the railroad westward reached the banks of the Colorado River. As the iron horse snaked its way across the continent, a town was born, christened "The Needles" in homage to the jagged peaks that punctuate the southern end of the valley. These striking rock formations, resembling a series of needles piercing the sky, became the namesake and an enduring symbol of the burgeoning settlement. Initially, rail travel was the primary mode of transportation to Needles, making the railroad depot the heart of the community. A simple wooden structure served as the first welcome point for travelers, a place where steam engines hissed and passengers disembarked, eager to explore this frontier outpost.
However, the wooden depot was destined for a fiery end. When it was destroyed by fire, it was replaced by a magnificent structure: the El Garces Harvey House and Train Depot, completed in 1908. This architectural gem was more than just a railway station; it was a symbol of elegance and refinement in the heart of the desert. The building was christened "El Garces" in honor of Father Francisco Garces, a Spanish missionary who ventured into the region in 1776, leaving his mark on the landscape and the local culture.
The El Garces was an integral part of the Fred Harvey chain, a network of hotel restaurants that stretched along the Santa Fe Railroad, providing weary travelers with respite, nourishment, and a touch of luxury. Among all the establishments in the Harvey chain, the El Garces was widely regarded as the "Crown Jewel," a testament to its exceptional quality and service. Guests were treated to the finest amenities, including real linen and silver, distinctive china, and fresh flowers that added a touch of vibrancy to the desert surroundings. The food was of the highest caliber, with meticulously prepared lunch and dinner menus that catered to a discerning clientele. The lunchroom featured two horseshoe-shaped counters, designed to accommodate a large number of patrons efficiently. Beyond serving travelers, the El Garces also became a social hub for the local community, hosting elegant private dinners, banquets, and other special occasions.
Adding to the allure of the El Garces were the "Harvey Girls," the waitresses who served with grace and professionalism. These young women, often hailing from diverse backgrounds, were carefully selected and trained in the art of impeccable service. Neatness, courtesy, and a commitment to excellence were hallmarks of their demeanor. They were required to sign a contract promising not to marry for one year, a condition that added to their mystique. Despite this restriction, many Harvey Girls eventually found love and married railroad men, further weaving their stories into the fabric of the town. The Harvey Girls and their managers lived upstairs in the El Garces, creating a close-knit community within the walls of the grand building.
Local lore recounts tales of railroaders who, during late afternoon stops at the El Garces, would climb atop the rail cars, hoping to catch a glimpse of the Harvey Girls relaxing in their nightgowns outside their dormitory. These anecdotes, whether true or embellished, contribute to the rich tapestry of stories that surround the El Garces and the town of Needles.
As the automobile gained popularity, the El Garces adapted to the changing times, welcoming travelers embarking on journeys along the Old Trails Highway, which later became the iconic Route 66. When the "Mother Road" was completed, connecting Chicago, Illinois, to Santa Monica, California, Needles experienced a surge in traffic. Thousands of Dust Bowl refugees and tourists streamed through the town, seeking a better life or simply the thrill of the open road. In response to this influx, Needles blossomed with a variety of services, motels, and cafes, many of which still stand today, serving as reminders of a bygone era.
In 1929, the Needles Historic Theatre was erected by the Masonic Lodge at a cost of approximately $120,000, a substantial sum at the time. The theater, which opened to great fanfare in March 1930, quickly became a cultural landmark. It showcased first-run movies and hosted traveling performances on its stage, providing entertainment for the local community and visitors alike. For 63 years, the theater thrived, until a fire in 1992 brought its operations to a halt. Since then, the building has remained vacant, but dedicated restoration efforts are underway to restore the old theater to its former glory.
By the 1940s, the American public was increasingly embracing the automobile, leading to a decline in railway travel. In the fall of 1949, the Harvey House in the El Garces closed its doors. The building was subsequently partitioned and repurposed as Santa Fe Railway offices.
The 1950s brought significant changes to the region. Dams were constructed along the Colorado River, mitigating the long-standing problem of flooding and making the land around Needles suitable for agriculture. This development, coupled with new recreational opportunities for boating and fishing, revitalized the local economy.
When the construction of I-40 threatened to bypass Needles, local citizens rallied to ensure that the freeway would pass through the town, preventing its economic decline. Their efforts proved successful, contributing significantly to the town’s future prospects.
In 1988, the Santa Fe Railroad relocated its offices from the El Garces to a new facility, leaving the historic building vacant and vulnerable to demolition. Recognizing the importance of preserving this landmark, the Friends of El Garces was formed in 1993. Through their advocacy, the City of Needles purchased the station in 1999. Today, tours are conducted through the historic building on the second Saturday of each month from October through May, allowing visitors to step back in time and appreciate its architectural splendor. There were plans to redevelop the El Garces into an upscale hotel and restaurant, similar to the La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona, the only historic Fred Harvey Hotel that continues to serve travelers today.
However, the El Garces is now utilized as an event site, with leasing options available for businesses or retail establishments.
Despite the scorching summer temperatures, which often exceed 100 degrees Fahrenheit, Needles attracts "snowbirds" with its mild winters. Visitors enjoy a variety of outdoor activities, including water skiing, boating, and fishing, as well as nearby attractions such as the Mojave National Preserve, Mystic Maze, and Topock Gorge.
For those traversing Route 66, approximately ten miles of the Mother Road pass through Needles, where several vintage icons can still be seen, including the Route 66 Motel, the Palm Motel, the former El Garces Fred Harvey Hotel/Santa Fe Depot, the Historic Needles Theatre, and various other historic motels.
Before continuing their journey along the Mother Road, travelers are encouraged to soak in the beautiful desert surroundings and the scenic Colorado River. However, a word of caution is advised: the stretch of barren desert ahead is extensive, with limited services available. It is recommended to fill up the gas tank in Needles, or even better, in Arizona before crossing into California, to save money for a well-deserved ice cream sundae after traversing the long, hot Mojave Desert.
An old alignment of Route 66 presents itself just after passing through Needles. At the Moabi Road Exit, the old 1947-1966 route winds past a campground, under a railroad bridge, and dead-ends at the Colorado River. After taking this short detour, return to the Moabi Road exit and rejoin I-40 westbound to continue the journey along Route 66.
Route 66 then veers away from I-40 to the north. Take the US-95 exit off I-40 a few miles outside of Needles. The road continues for about six miles before turning westward on Goffs Road to pass through the old towns of Goffs and Fenner.