Fort Sumner, New Mexico – Pride of the Pecos
Nestled in the heart of eastern New Mexico, along the fertile banks of the Pecos River, lies the village of Fort Sumner. More than just a dot on the map, Fort Sumner, New Mexico, is a place steeped in history, a crossroads of cultures, and a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West. Its story encompasses military ambitions, Native American displacement, outlaw legends, and the steady march of progress, all woven together into a captivating narrative that continues to resonate today.
The origins of Fort Sumner are inextricably linked to the tumultuous period of westward expansion and the U.S. government’s policies towards Native American tribes. In the wake of the Civil War, the government sought to consolidate its control over the vast territories acquired in the Southwest. One element of this plan was the creation of Indian reservations, intended to confine and "civilize" various tribes.
On October 31, 1862, Congress authorized the establishment of a military installation at Bosque Redondo, a site encompassing 40 square miles, specifically to protect a new Indian Reservation. The post was named in honor of General Edwin Vose Sumner, a distinguished military figure who passed away as the fort was under construction. Although the site was chosen and built, its future was in doubt, as some officers expressed concerns about the suitability of Bosque Redondo, citing its limited water resources and scarcity of firewood. Nevertheless, the decision stood, and Fort Sumner became the first Indian reservation west of Indian Territory (present-day Oklahoma).
The vision for Fort Sumner was ambitious, if tragically flawed. The plan involved relocating the Apache and Navajo tribes to the reservation, where they would be transformed into farmers, utilizing irrigation from the Pecos River. Furthermore, they were expected to assimilate into American society through education and the adoption of Christianity. To achieve this goal, the U.S. Army initiated a campaign of military action against the Mescalero Apache and Navajo, systematically destroying their fields, orchards, homes, and livestock. Those who survived the attacks were subsequently subjected to starvation, forcing them into submission.
A pivotal moment in this tragic chapter occurred in January 1864, when the Navajo surrendered to Kit Carson and his troops at Canyon de Chelly in Arizona. Carson ordered the destruction of their remaining possessions and organized the infamous "Long Walk," a forced march of thousands of Navajo people to the Bosque Redondo reservation, already occupied by the Mescalero Apache.
The establishment of Fort Sumner also attracted a civilian population to the area. A small settlement emerged around the military post, populated by soldiers, ranchers, stockmen, and businesses catering to the needs of the fort. This burgeoning community marked the beginnings of what would eventually become the village of Fort Sumner.
From its inception, the reservation at Fort Sumner was plagued by problems. The government’s poor planning and a fundamental misunderstanding of the complex relationships between the Native American tribes doomed the project to failure. The Navajo and Apache had a long and troubled history of conflict, and forcing them to coexist on the same reservation inevitably led to friction and violence. The ill-conceived site, named for a grove of cottonwood trees along the river, quickly transformed into a virtual prison camp for the Indians.
The brackish water of the Pecos River caused widespread intestinal problems and disease among the tribes. An armyworm infestation decimated the corn crop, further exacerbating the food shortages. The wood supply at Bosque Redondo was rapidly depleted, leaving the inhabitants without fuel for cooking or heating. Disillusioned and desperate, most of the Mescalero Apache managed to evade their military guards and abandon the reservation on November 3, 1865.
The Navajo, however, were forced to endure another three years of hardship before the U.S. government finally acknowledged the failure of its assimilation plan. On June 1, 1868, the Navajo were granted permission to return to their ancestral lands. Shortly thereafter, Fort Sumner was permanently closed, marking the end of a tragic experiment in forced relocation and cultural assimilation.
In 1870, the abandoned Fort Sumner buildings were sold to Lucien B. Maxwell, a prominent figure in New Mexico history, who had previously owned the largest land grant in the United States. Maxwell purchased the buildings and surrounding land for approximately $5,000 and relocated his family from northeastern New Mexico, transforming the former military structures into a comfortable family residence.
Lucien Maxwell later passed away, leaving his affairs to his son, Peter. It was during Peter Maxwell’s tenure that Fort Sumner gained notoriety as a backdrop to the legend of Billy the Kid. Peter Maxwell and Billy the Kid became friends. On July 14, 1881, Sheriff Pat Garrett found Billy the Kid in a bedroom of the Maxwell home, bringing an end to the life of the infamous teenage outlaw.
Billy the Kid was buried in the military cemetery at Fort Sumner, alongside two of his outlaw companions, Charlie Bowdre and Tom O’Folliard. These gravesites remain a popular destination for visitors interested in the history of the Wild West.
By 1884, Mrs. Lucien B. Maxwell and her son Peter had sold their holdings at the old fort. The area began to evolve once again, as new settlers arrived and the community adapted to changing times.
The arrival of the railroad in 1905 marked a significant turning point for Fort Sumner. The 150 residents of the original settlement began to relocate their businesses and homes approximately seven miles northwest, to the existing settlement of Sunnyside. Initially, two distinct towns, Sunnyside and Fort Sumner, coexisted side-by-side. However, on April 17, 1909, the Sunnyside Review newspaper reported that the two communities had resolved their differences and merged to form a single town, which retained the name Fort Sumner. The Sunnyside post office, which had been in operation since 1905, was subsequently renamed the Fort Sumner post office.
Fort Sumner was officially incorporated as a village in 1910. When De Baca County was established in 1917, Fort Sumner was designated as the county seat, a position it continues to hold today. By 1940, Fort Sumner had reached a population of nearly 2,000 residents. The primary industries in the area were cattle and sheep ranching, as well as the cultivation of crops such as alfalfa, sweet potatoes, apples, grapes, and melons.
While its population has since declined to around 1,300, Fort Sumner remains a vibrant community with a rich heritage and a variety of attractions for visitors. The friendly western atmosphere of Fort Sumner welcomes all who visit. A stroll along the historic Pecos River offers a glimpse into the past, while the Billy the Kid Museum provides a fascinating look at the life and times of the legendary outlaw. The De Baca County Courthouse features historical WPA murals, showcasing the artistic talents of the New Deal era.
Located seven miles southeast of town, the old Fort Sumner Museum and Cemetery is a must-see destination for history buffs. The cemetery is the final resting place of Billy the Kid, as well as his outlaw friends. Nearby is the Fort Sumner State Monument, which includes a visitor center dedicated to memorializing the Navaho’s Long Walk and telling the story of the Bosque Redondo Indian Reservation. The Museum and Memorial are located four miles east on U.S. Highway 60/84 and south three miles on Billy the Kid Road.
The surrounding area offers ample opportunities for outdoor recreation. Water sports are popular on the Pecos River, and Sumner Lake State Park, located 16 miles northeast of Fort Sumner, provides a scenic setting for boating, fishing, and camping. Bosque Redondo Lake, situated five miles southeast of town, is another popular spot for water activities and wildlife viewing.
Fort Sumner, New Mexico stands as a reminder of the complex and often tragic history of the American West. From its origins as a military post and a site of Native American displacement to its association with outlaw legends and its eventual transformation into a thriving agricultural community, the village has witnessed a remarkable series of events. Today, Fort Sumner embraces its past while looking towards the future, offering visitors a unique glimpse into the heart and soul of the Pecos River Valley.