Historic Fort Stockton, Texas
Nestled in the heart of West Texas, Historic Fort Stockton stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West. Its story is etched in the arid landscape, whispered by the winds that sweep across the plains, and preserved within the weathered walls of its remaining structures. From its origins as a vital water source for Native Americans to its role as a military outpost and a bustling frontier town, Historic Fort Stockton has witnessed the ebb and flow of history, leaving behind a rich tapestry of tales waiting to be discovered.
Long before the arrival of European settlers, the area surrounding Historic Fort Stockton was a haven for indigenous peoples. Comanche Springs, the lifeblood of Comanche Creek, served as a crucial watering hole and campground for Native Americans for centuries. The clear, cool waters provided sustenance and a strategic location along the Comanche Trail, a well-worn path to Chihuahua, Mexico. This natural spring was first documented by white men in 1849 when U.S. Army Captain William Henry Chase Whiting, leading a reconnaissance mission, encountered the springs and noted its significance as an Indian campground.
The abundance of water at Comanche Springs made it an ideal location for the U.S. Army to establish a fort. In 1859, Camp Stockton was founded with the primary objective of safeguarding the increasing number of travelers traversing the region. Several vital routes converged near the site, including the Comanche Trail, the San Antonio-El Paso Road, the Butterfield Overland Mail Route, and the San Antonio-Chihuahua freight-wagon road. The fort provided a much-needed sense of security and order in a wild and often dangerous territory.
The post was named in honor of Robert Field Stockton, a United States naval commodore renowned for his pivotal role in capturing California during the Mexican-American War. The initial construction of Camp Stockton was undertaken by troops of the 1st and 8th Infantry, situated southwest of the fort’s present location, near the current Courthouse. Upon its completion, Company H of the First U.S. Infantry was the first to be garrisoned.
The outbreak of the Civil War brought about significant changes for Historic Fort Stockton. U.S. troops were withdrawn, and Confederate forces briefly occupied the post before also retreating. By the end of the war, the original fort was largely dilapidated. However, the need for a military presence in the region remained, and in July 1867, Colonel Edward Hatch, Commander of the 9th Cavalry, spearheaded the re-establishment of Fort Stockton at its present location, approximately a half-mile northeast of the original camp.
The new fort was designed to be larger and more permanent, reflecting the long-term commitment to maintaining order and protecting westward expansion. Four Companies of the 9th U.S. Cavalry Regiment, famously known as the Buffalo Soldiers, played a crucial role in its reconstruction. Encompassing 960 acres of leased property, the troops diligently constructed some 35 buildings, with the guardhouse, completed in 1868, being among the first. While two of the structures were built using locally sourced limestone, the majority were constructed from adobe, a readily available and practical material in the arid climate.
In 1875, the 9th Cavalry was reassigned to New Mexico, and Colonel Benjamin Grierson’s 10th Cavalry assumed the responsibility of protecting the westward migration and trade routes. Between 1867 and 1886, a remarkable 87% of all soldiers stationed at Historic Fort Stockton were Buffalo Soldiers. These brave men faced immense challenges, including harsh living conditions, meager pay, and pervasive racial prejudice. Despite these obstacles, they distinguished themselves through their tenacity and bravery, making a significant contribution to the settlement and development of America’s western frontier. Beyond its military function, the fort also served as an economic engine, providing employment and revenue for freighters, laborers, farmers, stockmen, and merchants in the surrounding area.
The settlement that gradually developed around the fort eventually adopted the name Fort Stockton, but this wasn’t always the case. As the new post was taking shape, settlers began to arrive, drawn by the promise of opportunity in the burgeoning frontier. However, it was the vision of several San Antonio entrepreneurs who recognized the potential of Comanche Springs, nearby Leon Springs, and the Pecos River for irrigation that truly sparked the town’s growth. These investors acquired vast tracts of land for agricultural development, and in 1868, another investor named Peter Gallagher purchased the land encompassing Fort Stockton and Comanche Springs. Gallagher subsequently platted 160 acres for a townsite, which he christened Saint Gaul. He also established two stores at Comanche Springs and further expanded his holdings along Comanche Creek.
By 1870, the population of the area had grown to approximately 420 residents, many of whom had migrated from San Antonio. Farmers were actively utilizing water from the Pecos River for irrigation, cultivating an estimated 7,000 acres of land. When Pecos County was officially organized the following year, Saint Gaul was designated as the county seat. By 1875, the county’s population had swelled to around 1,100 people. However, the name Saint Gaul never resonated with the residents, and on August 13, 1881, it was officially changed to Fort Stockton, solidifying the community’s identity with the historic military post.
With the gradual decline in the threat of Indian attacks, the military post of Historic Fort Stockton was officially closed on June 30, 1886, and subsequently abandoned. The closure of the fort, coupled with the town being bypassed by both the Texas and Pacific and the Southern Pacific Railroads, triggered an immediate economic downturn, resulting in lost trade and employment opportunities.
Like many frontier towns in Texas, the city of Fort Stockton experienced its share of violence. In 1889, a newcomer named Andrew Jackson "A.J." Royal arrived, leaving an indelible mark on the town’s history. Royal, rumored to have been accused of murder in Junction, Texas, relocated his family to Pecos County. He established a ranch and operated the Gray Mule Saloon, where he was allegedly involved in a dispute that led to the death of one of his employees.
Despite his reputation as a quick-tempered, quarrelsome, and intimidating figure, Royal was elected as Pecos County Sheriff in 1892. During his two-year tenure, Royal, along with his infamous deputy, Barney Riggs, reportedly used intimidation tactics against community citizens. As his re-election neared in the fall of 1894, tensions escalated, and an all-out conflict between political rivals seemed imminent. Royal ultimately lost his re-election bid in October and was assassinated a few weeks later. However, his deputy, Riggs, remained in the area, killing two men in Pecos in 1896, before he, in turn, was killed by a family member in 1902.
By the turn of the century, the town had largely stabilized, and its population was steadily increasing due to the growth of cattle and sheep ranching. In 1926, the discovery of the nearby Yates Oil Field ushered in an era of economic prosperity for Fort Stockton and several surrounding towns.
During the Great Depression, the Works Progress Administration (WPA) played a vital role in improving the town’s infrastructure. In 1936, the WPA constructed a county bathhouse, a swimming pool, and a pavilion at Comanche Springs. However, by 1961, the springs had ceased flowing due to excessive irrigation and the proliferation of wells in the area. Today, the spring flows only intermittently, serving as a poignant reminder of the changing landscape. A historical marker now designates the site, and the park remains a popular destination located southwest of the historic fort.
Tourism, along with the discovery of petroleum and natural gas, significantly boosted the area’s economy in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1952, the largest gas field in the county was opened on the M.C. Puckett and Son Ranch, south of Fort Stockton. Tourism received a further boost in 1956 when U.S. 290 connected Fort Stockton to the Big Bend National Park, making the town a convenient gateway to the natural wonders of the region.
In the 1980s, Pecos County’s economy remained heavily reliant on farming, ranching, oil and gas production, and tourism. At that time, the town was home to nearly 9,000 residents. Today, Fort Stockton continues to serve as the county seat of Pecos County, although its population has decreased to approximately 7,800 due to the decline in oil production.
Of the original buildings that comprised the historic fort, only four remain standing: three of the eight Officers’ Quarters and the guardhouse. However, several other buildings have been meticulously reconstructed, and the site now includes enlisted men’s barracks, officers’ row, and a museum and visitor’s center. Listed on the National Register of Historic Sites, the fort is located on the east side of town at 301 East 3rd Street, inviting visitors to step back in time and experience the rich history of the American West.
The city boasts several other notable historic sites. A driving tour guides visitors to 16 points of interest, including the Historic District; the Annie Riggs Museum, housed in a turn-of-the-century adobe hotel; the 1912 Pecos County Courthouse, the 1883 Jail, the old fort cemetery, and more. And no visit to Fort Stockton is complete without stopping to admire Paisano Pete, the world’s largest roadrunner, a 22-foot-long statue on Main Street that provides a memorable photo opportunity.