Cimarron, New Mexico – Wild & Bawdy Boomtown

Nestled within the rugged landscape of northeastern New Mexico, the town of Cimarron whispers tales of a bygone era, a time of untamed frontiers, roaring saloons, and simmering tensions. Once a bustling hub teeming with prospectors, outlaws, and land barons, Cimarron, New Mexico stands today as a testament to the volatile spirit of the American West. A quote from the Las Vegas Gazette in the late 1870s encapsulates the atmosphere: "Everything is quiet at Cimarron. Nobody has been killed in three days." This sardonic observation paints a vivid picture of a town where life was cheap and violence was commonplace.

The story of Cimarron, New Mexico begins with the Beaubien-Miranda Land Grant, a vast expanse of nearly two million acres. In 1842, Lucien B. Maxwell, a fur trapper hailing from Illinois, arrived in the region and began working as a guide. His frequent trips to the Beaubien-Miranda Ranch led him to Luz Beaubien, one of Beaubien’s six daughters, whom he married in 1842.

Maxwell proved to be an astute and fortunate businessman. By 1857, he had acquired Miranda’s interest in the land grant, setting the stage for his ambitious development plans. In 1858, Maxwell constructed a grand mansion in Cimarron, a sprawling edifice that occupied an entire city block. The Maxwell House served not only as his residence but also as a multi-faceted commercial establishment, housing a hotel, gambling rooms, a saloon, a dance hall, a billiard parlor, and even a designated area for women of "special virtue."

The Maxwell House was renowned for its opulent interiors, boasting high, molded ceilings, plush carpets, velvet drapes, paintings in gilded frames, and an impressive collection of four pianos, two on each floor. Its guest registers bore the signatures of numerous prominent figures of the era, including Kit Carson, Clay Allison, Davy Crockett (the desperado and nephew of the famed frontiersman), and Buffalo Bill Cody.

While the Maxwell House occasionally witnessed shooting incidents within its bar and gambling rooms, Maxwell maintained a strict policy against such behavior and promptly ejected those involved. Sadly, the mansion was destroyed by fire in 1922, leaving no trace of its former grandeur.

Officially established in 1861, Cimarron derives its name from the Spanish word meaning "wild" and "unbroken." This moniker perfectly reflected the town’s character, as it quickly attracted a diverse and often unruly population of mountain men, outlaws, trappers, gold seekers, traders, and cowboys.

In 1864, following the death of his father-in-law, Maxwell purchased the interests of the remaining five heirs, becoming the largest landowner in the United States and renaming the property the Maxwell Land Grant.

That same year, Maxwell commissioned a Boston engineering firm to design a three-story grist mill, which he christened the Aztec Mill. Capable of grinding 15,000 pounds of wheat daily, the mill supplied flour to Fort Union and provided provisions to the local Native American tribes, for which Maxwell received compensation from the federal government. He operated the Aztec Mill until 1870. Maxwell’s Aztec Mill in Cimarron, New Mexico still stands today and serves as a museum.

The discovery of gold on Baldy Peak in 1866, a year after the Civil War ended, triggered a gold rush that further fueled Cimarron’s growth. The influx of miners, coupled with the traffic along the Mountain Branch of the Santa Fe Trail, transformed Cimarron into a bustling boomtown, boasting 16 saloons, four hotels, and numerous trading stores. However, this rapid expansion also brought with it a reputation for lawlessness, with gunfights erupting frequently in the streets.

One notable incident involved Charles Cosgrove, the owner of the Cosgrove House, who was hosting a "shivaree" for a newly married couple. When the celebration grew out of hand, Cosgrove attempted to disperse the revelers, only to be confronted by Mason Chase, the newly appointed deputy sheriff. Mistaking Chase for one of the instigators, Cosgrove shot him in the chest. Fortunately, a thick notebook in Chase’s breast pocket absorbed the bullet, saving his life.

In 1870, the notorious gunslinger Clay Allison arrived in Cimarron, further contributing to the town’s reputation for mayhem. Allison and his cowboy companions transformed Cimarron into a regular Saturday night party destination. While their business was welcomed by barkeeps, gamblers, and dance hall girls, the rest of the town’s residents lived in fear. The cowboys would ride through the saloons, gambling halls, and dance halls, punctuating their rebel yells with gunfire, shooting at lamps, lanterns, mirrors, and glasses. They were also known for forcing newcomers to "dance" by firing shots at their feet.

That same year, Lucien B. Maxwell sold his interest in the land grant and all his properties for $700,000 and relocated to Fort Sumner, New Mexico. The new owners, the Maxwell Land Grant Company, sought to aggressively exploit the grant’s resources, including gold mines, lumber, land sales, and rents.

The developers established a sales office in Maxwell’s mansion in Cimarron, but their expectations of a rapid influx of customers were soon dashed. Declining gold production and the threat of Indian attacks deterred potential buyers. Furthermore, existing settlers on the grant resented the new owners’ attempts to collect rents.

Determined to quell the town’s rowdyism, the Maxwell Land Grant Company sought to establish order and culture. John Collinson, president of the company, contracted Alexander P. Sullivan, a newspaperman from Santa Fe, to publish the Cimarron News and Press. The first issue appeared on September 22, 1870.

The Land Grant Company also recruited Henri Lambert, a French chef who had previously served as the personal cook to President Abraham Lincoln and General Ulysses S. Grant. Lambert was operating a hotel and restaurant in Elizabethtown, and the company convinced him to relocate to Cimarron. The Lambert Inn, as it was initially known, opened its doors in 1872.

However, the inn quickly gained a reputation as a haven for violence. It was said that 26 men were shot and killed within its adobe walls. The morning ritual in Cimarron often involved asking, "Who was killed at Lambert’s last night?" Another common saying after a killing was, "It appears Lambert had himself another man for breakfast." The Grant Company’s plan for cultivation had backfired spectacularly. Cimarron, New Mexico was certainly a wild and bawdy boomtown.

Allison and his cowboys frequented Lambert’s Inn, continuing their boisterous antics. Among Allison’s associates was a young Davy Crockett (not the Alamo hero, but his nephew). Both Allison and Crockett hailed from Tennessee, and Crockett endeared himself to Allison due to his animosity towards the black troopers stationed at Fort Union.

By 1875, Cimarron’s reputation for lawlessness had reached its peak, and open conflict had erupted between the Land Grant men and the local settlers. The new owners of the Maxwell Land Grant were actively trying to evict the squatters, settlers, and farmers who had established homes and businesses on the land. The settlers, unwilling to abandon their investments, resisted eviction. Sheriffs served eviction notices, and retaliation followed. Grant pastures were set ablaze, cattle rustling increased, and officials were threatened at gunpoint. Grant gang members conducted nighttime raids on homes and ranches, using threats of violence to force compliance with the grant owners. This local conflict became known as the Colfax County War, which claimed the lives of as many as 200 men.

The Santa Fe New Mexican reported on November 9, 1875, that "Cimarron is in the hands of a mob!"

Parson Franklin J. Tolby arrived in Cimarron during this tumultuous period, seeking to bring salvation to the town. As a Methodist Circuit Rider, he preached sermons in Cimarron, Elizabethtown, Ute Park, and Ponil. Tolby embraced Cimarron, intending to make it his home, and openly sided with the settlers in their opposition to the land grant men. He declared his intention to do everything in his power to hinder the land grant owners. However, on September 14, 1875, the 33-year-old minister was found shot to death in Cimarron Canyon, between Elizabethtown and Cimarron. The settlers immediately suspected the Grant men, as robbery was ruled out since the minister’s horse and belongings remained untouched.

Rumors surfaced implicating the new Cimarron Constable, Cruz Vega, in the murder. On the evening of October 30, 1875, a masked mob led by Clay Allison confronted Vega. Despite the constable’s denial of any involvement in the murder, the mob beat and hanged him from a telegraph pole.

On November 1st, Francisco "Pancho" Griego, Vega’s uncle, and Cruz’s 18-year-old son, began threatening the townspeople in retaliation for Vega’s death. Seeking confrontation, they entered Lambert’s Inn. Allison was present in the saloon, and Griego accused him of involvement in Vega’s hanging.

Griego attempted to distract Allison by fanning himself with his hat while drawing his gun, but Allison anticipated the move and swiftly fired two bullets, killing Griego. The saloon was closed pending an inquiry the following morning, where Allison was exonerated on the grounds of self-defense. According to local accounts, the saloon’s closure was considered the most unfortunate aspect of the incident. The reign of terror in Cimarron continued, and the town spiraled out of control. Violence, lawlessness, and fear gripped the residents, prompting many to pack their belongings and flee. At one point, guards were stationed at all entrances to Cimarron, and no one was permitted to leave without the anti-grant vigilante’s permission. By November 9, 1875, the Santa Fe New Mexican reported that Cimarron was under the control of a mob.

Supposedly, Cimarron was under the control of Davy Crockett [nephew of the more famous Texan]. Crockett, along with his ranch foreman, Gus Heffron, were frequent patrons of the bars and gambling halls. While the 23-year-old Crockett was somewhat arrogant, he was generally well-liked until the night of March 24, 1876, when he became intoxicated and turned violent. According to the story, Crockett, Heffron, and a man named Henry Goodman had been visiting various establishments in Cimarron that evening. As they prepared to head home, they stopped at Lambert’s to purchase a bottle of whiskey for the road.

As Crockett exited the saloon, he encountered difficulty opening the door because someone was attempting to open it from the outside, which angered the drunken Crockett. When he finally managed to open the door, he faced a soldier from the U.S. 9th Cavalry, a black cavalry unit known as Buffalo Soldiers.

Crockett reportedly drew his gun and killed the soldier, then turned his weapon on three more black troopers at a card table in the bar, killing two of them. Crockett and Heffron fled town on foot, as their horses were stabled in a barn where the Buffalo Soldiers were camped. Crockett reportedly justified his actions by claiming that putting uniforms on former slaves was an insult. He appeared before the justice of the peace and was acquitted of the murders, receiving only a $50 fine and court costs on a reduced charge of carrying arms.

Following his acquittal, Crockett’s arrogance intensified, and his behavior became increasingly intolerable. Over the next several months, he and Heffron terrorized Cimarron, riding their horses into stores and saloons, firing their guns into the air and ceilings, and forcing people at gunpoint to buy them drinks.

One day in a saloon, the two forced Cimarron’s Sheriff Rinehart to consume liquor until he passed out. Fed up with the bullies’ antics, Sheriff Rinehart deputized Joseph Holbrook, a local rancher, and John McCullough, the town’s postmaster, to apprehend them.

On the night of September 30, 1876, the three men, armed with double-barreled shotguns, concealed themselves near Schwenk’s barn. Around 9 p.m., Crockett and Heffron approached the barn on horseback when Holbrook revealed himself and ordered them to raise their hands. Crockett laughed and dared Holbrook to shoot, and Holbrook obliged.

Sheriff Rinehart and McCullough also fired at the two men, startling their horses, which bolted and galloped north across the Cimarron River. Heffron, who was not seriously injured, continued riding, but Crockett’s horse stopped on the other side of the river. Crockett’s hands were locked in a death grip on the saddle horn and had to be pried open.

Heffron was arrested shortly afterward but escaped on October 31, 1876, fleeing into the Colorado mountains and disappearing without a trace.

While this account is the most commonly told, another version is maintained by Crockett family descendants. According to Andrew Jackson Crockett, a nephew of Davy Crockett, Rinehart coveted Crockett’s horses and accused him of being a horse thief. Afraid to arrest Crockett alone, Rinehart requested the cavalry’s assistance. When four Buffalo Soldiers confronted Crockett, one of them drew a gun, and Davy killed three of them.

Later, Andrew Crockett claimed that Sheriff Rinehart, along with another man, ambushed Davy and shot him in the back as he was leaving town. Crockett was buried in the Cimarron cemetery, but for many years, no marker existed, and the grave has long been lost. Today, another marker has been erected, although its placement on the actual burial location is uncertain.

In 1880, a hotel was added to Lambert’s Inn, attracting numerous well-known figures over the years. These included Annie Oakley and Buffalo Bill Cody, who had briefly managed a goat ranch for Lucien Maxwell. Reportedly, Buffalo Bill met Annie Oakley at the hotel, where they planned his Wild West Show. Other notable guests included Wyatt Earp, Bat Masterson, Jesse James, train robber Black Jack Tom Ketchum, General Sheridan, artist Fredrick Remington, Governor Lew Wallace, and writer Zane Grey. The Hotel and Inn were later renamed the St. James, which remains in operation today.

As gold production declined in the early 1880s, Cimarron’s population dwindled, and in 1882, it lost its county seat status to Springer.

The Colfax County War continued until the Supreme Court of the United States upheld the survey in 1887, legitimizing the Maxwell Land Grant Company. Abandoned by their government, many of the homesteaders either bought or leased their land, while others simply gave up and left. The Land Grant Company continued to exploit the grant’s resources, prospering for several decades. Even today, discussions about the Colfax County War among locals can spark intense debates and heated arguments.

When Henri Lambert’s sons replaced the roof of the Lambert Inn in 1901, they discovered over 400 bullet holes in the ceiling above the bar. A double layer of heavy wood prevented anyone sleeping upstairs from being killed. Today, the ceiling of the dining room still bears 22 bullet holes. Henri Lambert passed away in 1913.

In 1905, the St. Louis, Rocky Mountain, and Pacific Railroad built a spur line to Cimarron and Ute Park, revitalizing the town. Real estate investors constructed hotels and stores, selling lots and homes as people arrived by rail.

Fred Lambert, Henri Lambert’s son, restored the Aztec Mill, which now serves as a museum operated by the Cimarron Historical Society. Fred Lambert was the youngest Territorial Marshall in New Mexico, sworn in at age 16, and held various law enforcement positions throughout his career in Cimarron.

In 1985, the St. James Hotel was restored, and the old saloon, now the hotel’s dining room, retains its original antique bar, as well as twenty-two bullet holes in the pressed-tin ceiling. In the hotel hall, a plaque commemorates Clay Allison and lists the names of 19 men he is said to have killed.

The hotel is open year-round, offering 13 historic rooms named after famous and infamous individuals who once stayed there. An annex has been added to the hotel, providing an additional 12 rooms.

The sole monument to Lucien B. Maxwell is a primitive concrete folk-art sculpture, depicting Maxwell seated and facing west, holding a rifle. According to Buddy Morse, a curator at the Aztec Mill, the statue was originally intended for Henry Springer, but Springer disliked it and declared that statues were reserved for the deceased. Consequently, it was decided that the statue would depict Maxwell instead.

Schwenk’s Hall, once a gambling house and saloon in the 1870s, now serves as a private residence and a gift shop. A plaque embedded in the wall commemorates the occasion when "Coal Oil Jimmy" and Davy Crockett won $14,000 playing Faro.

During renovations, the owners discovered a mysterious tunnel running from beneath the house to a point beneath the garage, which may have once been the saloon and gambling den. One of the most significant historical sites is the Cimarron Cemetery, which houses the remains of many prominent figures from the town’s past. In the Lambert Family plot, enclosed by an old wrought-iron fence, rests Henri Lambert, marked by a flecked black tombstone. Adjacent to him lies Mary Elizabeth Lambert, who died on December 8, 1926, with a matching marker. In a separate plot, a crumbling white tombstone marks the grave of another Mary Lambert, Henri’s first wife.

Davy Crockett is buried in the Cimarron cemetery, and a new wooden marker has been placed, although its precise location is unknown. Originally, Crockett’s grave had a rough wooden marker, but family members removed it with the intention of replacing it with a more suitable one. Unfortunately, the new marker never arrived. In the past, some old-timers knew the location of Crockett’s unmarked grave, but they, too, are now buried in the cemetery. Fred Lambert stated that the grave was situated halfway between Reverend Tolby’s grave, marked by a handsome monument, and the Lambert family plot.

Reverend Tolby was shot near Clear Creek in 1875, and his murder was a catalyst for the Colfax County War. His tombstone has been replaced, but the original tombstone can be seen at the St. James Hotel.

Approximately half a mile west of the St. James Hotel lies an old grave believed to be that of Cruz Vega, who was killed by Clay Allison and a lynch mob on October 30, 1875.

Today, Cimarron, New Mexico is a charming mountain community with a population of approximately 900 residents. While the wild and bawdy days of its boomtown past are long gone, the echoes of those times can still be felt in the town’s historic buildings, its cemeteries, and the stories passed down through generations. A visit to Cimarron, New Mexico offers a glimpse into the heart of the Old West, a time of both opportunity and peril, where legends were made and lives were often lost.