Caldwell, Kansas – The Wicked Border Queen
Caldwell, Kansas, a town steeped in the lore of the American West, earned its moniker, the "Border Queen," during a tumultuous era marked by cattle drives, land rushes, and a reputation for lawlessness. Situated strategically just north of the Oklahoma border, Caldwell served as a pivotal hub in the late 19th century, attracting cowboys, pioneers, and opportunists alike. Its history is a vibrant tapestry woven with tales of prosperity, violence, and the enduring spirit of the frontier.
The genesis of Caldwell dates back to 1871. The nascent settlement was formally established and christened in honor of Alexander T. Caldwell, a prominent United States Senator representing Leavenworth, Kansas. Captain C.H. Stone, a visionary and one of the town’s founding fathers, erected the first structure – a humble log cabin. This building served a dual purpose, functioning both as a general store and the town’s inaugural post office. Stone himself assumed the mantle of the city’s first postmaster, setting the stage for Caldwell‘s growth. Soon, other buildings began to rise, forming the nucleus of a burgeoning community. Among these were a hotel to accommodate travelers, various businesses catering to the needs of the growing population, and the infamous Red Light Saloon, a magnet for cowboys and Native Americans alike.
Caldwell‘s geographical location along the famed Chisholm Trail proved to be a significant factor in its early development. The town became a convenient stopping point for the countless cowboys who drove massive herds of cattle northwards, destined for the railheads of Abilene and Wichita. These cattle drives were integral to the economy of the era. Despite its strategic location, Caldwell remained a relatively small trading post for several years, its population hovering around 260 residents until 1879.
A pivotal moment arrived in 1879 when the Santa Fe Railroad extended its tracks to Caldwell. Recognizing the town’s potential, investors from Wichita formed a town company, capitalizing on the opportunity to sell lots for $125 apiece. This sparked a period of rapid growth and development. The city was officially incorporated and aggressively promoted its advantages as a prime cattle shipping point. This attracted a wave of new residents. Within a short period, the population swelled to approximately 1,500, transforming Caldwell into a bustling frontier town.
As cowboys began herding cattle up the Chisholm Trail towards Caldwell, the town began to embody all the characteristics of a lawless frontier settlement. The drovers, after months of hard work on the trail, were eager to relax and enjoy their earnings. The town quickly earned the nickname "Border Queen," a testament to its location and its reputation for attracting those seeking entertainment and escape.
With the influx of cowboys and the pursuit of profit, Caldwell rapidly developed a thriving network of saloons, gambling dens, and brothels. Situated just north of the Indian Territory (present-day Oklahoma), the town became a haven where cowboys could indulge in vices and let loose after enduring months of arduous work on the dusty and often dangerous cattle trails. This atmosphere, however, came at a price. Gunfights, showdowns, and general mayhem became commonplace occurrences. Hangings were also not unheard of, further contributing to Caldwell‘s reputation as a wild and dangerous place.
During its most turbulent years, spanning from 1879 to 1885, Caldwell gained notoriety for having a disproportionately high murder rate and a staggering loss of law enforcement officers compared to other, more well-known cowtowns. This era witnessed the violent deaths of 18 city marshals, a statistic that prompted a Wichita editor to ominously declare, "As we go to press, hell is again in session in Caldwell."
One of the earliest incidents that contributed to Caldwell‘s violent reputation occurred at the Moreland Saloon on July 7, 1879. Deputy Constable James Wilson and a concerned citizen named George Flatt confronted two cowboys, Woods and Adams, who had been celebrating their recent payment for a Texas cattle drive by recklessly firing their guns outside the saloon. The confrontation escalated into a deadly gunfight. When the smoke cleared, both Woods and Adams lay dead. An innocent bystander named Kiser was also wounded in the crossfire. Flatt, having established a reputation as a man of action, was soon appointed as Caldwell‘s first City Marshal. He openly claimed responsibility for shooting the cowboys, but the identity of the person who wounded Mr. Kiser remained a mystery.
Despite his initial success, George Flatt proved to be unpopular among the local citizenry. On April 5, 1880, a new mayor, Mike Meagher, was elected in Caldwell. One of Meagher’s first acts was to dismiss City Marshal George Flatt. He disapproved of Flatt’s confrontational approach to law enforcement.
Meagher then appointed William Horseman as the new marshal, with Frank Hunt and Dan Jones serving as deputies, and James Johnson remaining as constable. Flatt was understandably displeased with this turn of events and wasted no time in publicly voicing his grievances.
On the evening of June 18, 1880, a drunken Flatt made his rounds in several Caldwell saloons, airing his complaints to anyone who would listen. At some point, he encountered Frank Hunt, and the two engaged in a heated argument. Hunt eventually persuaded Flatt to head home at around 1:00 a.m. However, Flatt never made it. On his way home, he was ambushed and killed in the street, a bullet lodged in the back of his skull.
Mayor Mike Meagher and police officers William Horseman, Frank Hunt, James Johnson, and Dan Jones were promptly arrested by Sumner County Sheriff Joe Thralls for Flatt’s murder. While all the men were bound over for trial, only William Horseman was ultimately tried. A year later, he was acquitted of the charges.
Mike Meagher’s fate, however, was sealed on December 17, 1881, in a shootout with Jim Talbot and three other men. Meagher was killed in the gunfight. George Spears, a former policeman who had switched allegiances to Talbot, also died in the gunfire. The gunfight was so prolonged that a local hardware store even supplied guns and ammunition to the townspeople. Only one of Talbot’s men was ever convicted of the murder. After his release, Talbot was acquitted but was later killed, purportedly by Mike’s brother, John, who was seen following Talbot from the courthouse.
By the time Caldwell reached its third anniversary, it had already required its ninth marshal. Tragically, the city would soon need a tenth. Appointed in March 1882, George S. Brown, a 28-year-old, served as marshal only until the summer. On June 22, 1882, Marshal Brown was killed by cowboys Steve and Jess Green in the Red Light Saloon while responding to a disturbance call with a deputy. With the assistance of the saloon’s employees, the Green brothers managed to escape into the Indian Territory. They were later involved in a gunfight with Territory lawmen in October. Steve Green and a deputy sheriff were killed in the shootout, while Jess Green was captured, suffering from 13 gunshot wounds. The Kansas governor readily paid the Texas posse the $1,000 reward offered by Kansas. Jess Green died in the county jail before he could be brought to trial for murder.
In 1882, another man named Brown – Henry Newton Brown – was hired as Assistant Marshal. He was later promoted to City Marshal.
However, Brown failed to disclose to the city council his checkered past, which included cattle rustling, riding with Billy the Kid, and a manslaughter charge during the Lincoln County War in New Mexico.
Brown hired his friend, Ben Wheeler, also known as Ben Robertson, and the two men swiftly "cleaned up" the tough town. When Brown killed two outlaws in the streets of Caldwell in 1883, the Caldwell Post proudly declared that Brown was "one of the quickest men on the trigger in the Southwest." Impressed by his performance, the town’s citizens presented him with a new, engraved Winchester rifle.
Unbeknownst to the townspeople, Brown had fallen into financial difficulties and had reverted to his outlaw ways. On April 30, 1884, Brown, his deputy, Ben Wheeler, and two other former outlaw associates attempted to rob a bank in Medicine Lodge, Kansas. Though they failed to obtain any money, they shot and killed two bank employees. A posse immediately pursued the would-be robbers, catching up with them just outside of town.
The captured robbers were taken to the Medicine Lodge jail, where a mob quickly gathered outside, chanting, "Hang them! Hang them!" At around 9:00 p.m. that night, the mob stormed the jail. The prisoners attempted to escape. Brown was quickly gunned down, his body riddled with bullets. Wheeler was also wounded but was dragged, along with the other two, to a nearby elm tree and hanged.
Later that year, "Buffalo Bill" Brooks, a former lawman from Newton and Dodge City who had turned to outlawry, was captured near Caldwell by a posse, along with several other horse thieves. Hauled to jail to await trial, a lynch mob stormed the Caldwell jail on July 29 and lynched Brooks and two other horse thieves, L.B. Hasbrouck and Charlie Smith.
By the following year, the cattle trade had shifted further west, and Caldwell gradually transitioned into an agricultural community. Over a million longhorns and their accompanying cowboys had passed through Caldwell during its prosperous cattle-driving era.
Caldwell experienced another period of excitement in 1893 when Congress opened the Cherokee Outlet to the south for settlement. The town became inundated with thousands of land-hungry pioneers preparing for America’s last great land rush. On September 16, 1893, an estimated 15,000 people congregated in Caldwell, awaiting the cavalry soldiers’ gunshots that would signal the start of the frantic race for land.
After the land rush, Caldwell continued to thrive for a time. However, as new towns were established in the newly opened territory to cater to the settlers’ needs, Caldwell‘s importance as a supply hub diminished. Nevertheless, the town endured as a railroad junction and agricultural center. Today, its population stands at approximately 1,300.
Though Caldwell‘s bustling days are long gone, the small city proudly preserves its rich heritage through various historical markers scattered throughout the town. Visitors can explore the Cherokee Strip Visitors Center & Museum, located at 1 North Main, and visit the historic Boot Hill cemetery. The town also hosts several celebrations throughout the year, commemorating its vibrant past and the era when it reigned as the "Wicked Border Queen."