Alpine Loop National Backcountry Byway, Colorado

Tucked away within the rugged embrace of the San Juan Mountains in southwestern Colorado lies a treasure trove of natural beauty and historical intrigue: the Alpine Loop National Backcountry Byway. This captivating circular route, a testament to the resilience of nature and the ambition of early settlers, beckons adventurers to explore its unpaved paths and discover the secrets hidden within its breathtaking landscapes. Situated northeast of the historic mining town of Silverton, Colorado, the Alpine Loop traverses both San Juan and Hinsdale Counties, offering a diverse tapestry of experiences for those who dare to venture off the beaten path.

The journey begins near Lake City, a charming town nestled at the foot of towering peaks. From there, the route follows CO-149 south to County Road 30, where the true backcountry adventure begins. This road winds westward, ascending Cinnamon Pass and leading to the ghost town of Animas Forks. From Animas Forks, the loop continues east over Engineer Pass, eventually returning to Lake City along County Road 20, completing the circuit. The Alpine Loop is more than just a road; it’s a portal to a bygone era, a living museum of mining history, and a showcase of Colorado’s unparalleled natural grandeur.

The geological forces that shaped the Alpine Loop region are truly awe-inspiring. Volcanoes, glaciers, wind, and rain have sculpted a landscape of dramatic mountains, deep valleys, crystal-clear streams, and serene lakes. This masterpiece of nature’s artistry provided sustenance and shelter for the Ute Indian tribe for centuries before the arrival of miners in the 1800s. Driven by the allure of silver, gold, lead, and zinc, these hardy pioneers carved a network of roads through the unforgiving terrain, creating the very routes that now comprise the Alpine Loop. These roads were vital arteries, transporting ore and supplies by mule-drawn wagons to and from the bustling mining hubs of Silverton, Ouray, and Lake City.

While the mines and mills that once defined the region’s economy have long since ceased operation, their legacy remains etched upon the landscape. Exploration pits and tunnels, now silent reminders of the past, dot the hillsides, testaments to the extensive prospecting efforts that once gripped the area. Names like Hidden Treasure, Ute-Ulay, Golden Fleece, Little Giant, and Pride of the West echo through the valleys, representing just a fraction of the more than 70 mines that lured 19th-century entrepreneurs with the promise of untold riches. Mining towns such as Animas Forks, Mineral Point, and Capitol City experienced fleeting periods of prosperity, fueled by the arrival of the railroad, which brought increased mobility and transportation to Lake City. Today, only the weathered skeletons of these ghost towns remain, offering a glimpse into a vibrant past.

This network of historic roads, once the lifeblood of the mining industry, has been transformed into the Alpine Loop National Backcountry Byway. As a part of the National Scenic Byway system, the Alpine Loop holds the distinction of being one of the Bureau of Land Management’s (BLM) first backcountry byways. Unlike many scenic byways that follow paved highways, backcountry byways emphasize the rugged beauty of out-of-the-way sights accessible via gravel and dirt roads. It’s important to note that these routes are not suitable for all vehicles, requiring four-wheel drive and high clearance. However, for those with the appropriate transportation, the Alpine Loop offers unparalleled access to remote and stunning vistas far from the crowded tourist trails.

Spanning 65 miles of unpaved roads between Lake City, Ouray, and Silverton, Colorado, the Alpine Loop is a journey that demands preparation and respect for the environment. Due to heavy winter snowfall, the Loop typically opens in late May or early June and closes in late October, depending on the weather conditions. Visitors today can retrace the routes forged by prospectors, miners, and settlers who risked everything in pursuit of fortune in these mountains. Portions of the road are challenging, characterized by narrow twists, blind curves, and steep inclines. A four-wheel-drive vehicle with high clearance is essential for navigating these sections safely and enjoying the full experience.

Beyond the breathtaking scenery, the Alpine Loop offers a diverse range of outdoor recreational activities. The rivers, streams, and lakes teem with fish, attracting anglers from far and wide. Hikers can explore a network of trails leading to the summits of five peaks exceeding 14,000 feet, offering panoramic views that stretch for miles. History enthusiasts will find themselves captivated by the many structures, mines, and ghost towns scattered throughout the region, remnants of the late 1800s mining boom. Photographers will be particularly enchanted by the vibrant displays of alpine wildflowers that blanket the landscape in late July and early August, as well as the explosion of fall colors that transforms the mountainsides in September.

The Alpine Loop provides rustic facilities to enhance the visitor experience, including three campgrounds, a picnic area, and ten restrooms strategically located along the route. The driving time for the entire loop is estimated to be between 4 and 6 hours, but this can vary depending on road conditions, traffic, and the amount of time spent exploring the various points of interest. Access to the loop is available from Lake City, Silverton, or Ouray, allowing visitors to tailor their experience to their individual preferences.

The Alpine Loop truly offers a unique backcountry experience. It is crucial to prioritize safety and preparedness before embarking on this adventure. Always inform someone of your travel plans and conduct thorough research to understand the challenges and potential hazards of the route. Ensure that you have an ample supply of water, food, and fuel to reach your destination. It is important to note that electronic and wireless devices often do not function in many areas along the Alpine Loop. Therefore, it is highly recommended to download or print hard-copy maps before your trip.

The main Alpine Loop is just the beginning of the adventure. Miles of designated side routes invite visitors to explore a multitude of additional sites, each with its own unique history and charm. The Alpine Loop isn’t just a drive; it’s an immersion into the heart of Colorado’s wild and captivating past.

Sites along the Main Alpine Loop:

• Animas Forks: Established in 1875 and occupied until the 1920s, Animas Forks is one of the most popular destinations along the Alpine Loop National Backcountry Byway. Retaining several historic buildings, including the Duncan House, the Columbus Mill, and the jail, it offers a fascinating glimpse into a once-thriving mining community.

• Mineral Point: Located 2.7 miles north of Animas Forks, Mineral Point thrived from the 1870s through the 1890s. Mining remains can be seen in the valley below, and several dirt trails lead into the valley. County Road 17 continues to the northwest, eventually connecting with Highway 550 and north to Ouray.

• Engineer Pass: Situated at an elevation of 12,800 feet, Engineer Pass offers spectacular views of Mt. Sneffels, Uncompahgre Peak, and the extinct Lake City volcanic caldera. Built in 1877, the first toll road over Engineer Pass connected Silverton, Animas Forks, Ouray, and Lake City.

• Galena Mining District: Stretching east from the Ouray-San Juan county line for 16 miles to Lake City, the Galena Mining District was once home to several mines, including the Frank Hough Mine, the Palmetto Mine and Mill, and the Empire Chief Mine. Today, only scattered debris remains.

• Rose’s Cabin: About three miles east of Engineer Pass’s summit, Rose’s Cabin began as a single cabin built in 1874 and grew into a saloon, hotel, stable, store, and post office. Today, only timbers of an old building and an old safe remain.

• Golconda Mine: Located at the intersection of Co Rd 20 and Co Rd 21, the Golconda Mine complex consists of the century-old Golconda Boarding House and Compressor House. The boarding house is the largest remaining standing log structure on the east side of the Alpine Loop that is accessible to the public.

• Rose Lime Kiln: Built by George S. Lee, the Rose Lime Kiln once produced an ash-free lime used as a cement additive. Standing 44 feet tall, it is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

• Whitmore Falls: Located about ten miles west of Lake City, Whitmore Falls offers a sensational photo opportunity. A short downhill walk leads to the observation point.

• Capitol City: Founded in 1877 by George Lee, Capitol City was once a thriving mining camp with hotels, restaurants, saloons, and a population of 400. Today, only the post office and a few other log buildings remain.

• Pike Snowden Cabin: Built in the late 1870s, the Pike Snowden Cabin was home to Pike Snowden, a colorful character in local lore, until about 1915. The bars on the windows are remnants of Snowden’s fear of being shot in his sleep after winning a large sum in a poker game in Creede, Colorado.

• Henson and the Ute-Ulay Mines: The rough and tumble town of Henson was once home to the Ute-Ulay mine, one of Colorado’s best-known silver and lead producers. The Ute-Ulay Mine and Mill site are listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

• Hard Tack Mine: Once supported by the Hidden Treasure and Hard Tack Mines, Treasure City operated from the 1890s until 1930. Today, the Hard Tack Mine and Museum offers daily tours between June and September.

• Lake City: The county seat of Hinsdale County, Lake City became a supply center for prospectors and miners after rich mineral deposits were discovered in the area. Today, it caters to tourists with outdoor recreation opportunities.

• Lakeshore & the Golden Fleece Mine: Located south of Lake City, the Golden Fleece Mine supported the mining camp of Lakeshore. Today, several summer cabins occupy the area where the camp once stood.

• Lake San Cristobal: Formed about 700 years ago, Lake San Cristobal is the second-largest natural lake in Colorado. It provides fishing, boating, camping, and wildlife viewing for visitors.

• Wager Gulch-Carson Ghost Town: The five-mile stretch up Wager Gulch to Carson requires a high-clearance, 4-wheel drive vehicle. Carson is remarkably well-preserved, with several old buildings.

• Sherman Mining Camp: Active from the late 1870s through the 1910s, very little remains of the old Sherman camp today.

• Burrows Park: Located along the Hinsdale-San Juan County line, Burrows Park is a grassy meadow area that once encompassed several mining camps. Little remains of these old camps today.

• American Basin: Part of the Gunnison National Forest, the American Basin is a high alpine basin at an elevation of 12,365 feet surrounded by vertical cliffs, well-known for its spectacular scenery and alpine wildflowers.

• Tobasco Mine & Mill: The Tobasco Cabin is the last standing structure of the old Tobasco Mine and Mill property. Farther up the mountain are the scattered remains of collapsed buildings, foundations, and the mill itself.

• Cinnamon Pass: At 12,620 feet, Cinnamon Pass provides breathtaking views of the alpine tundra and the high mountain peaks of Handies, Redcloud, and Sunshine.

The Alpine Loop National Backcountry Byway offers a unique and unforgettable experience for those seeking adventure, history, and natural beauty. Remember to plan ahead, prepare for challenging conditions, and respect the fragile environment.