Arlington Road, Missouri – True Vintage Route 66 – Legends of America
Delve into a nostalgic journey along a fragment of the original Route 66, as it meanders towards Arlington Road, just eight miles west of Rolla, Missouri. Although now a mere dead-end path, this three-mile stretch holds the echoes of a bygone era when it was a vital artery within Phelps County. Today, it offers travelers a glimpse into the past, showcasing the remnants of once-thriving establishments, including the haunting ruins of John’s Modern Cabins and the silent streets of the ghost town of Arlington.
Navigating to the Past
For those venturing west on I-44, take Exit #176. Proceed south, crossing over the interstate, and then turn right (west) onto Arlington Outer Road. After a brief half-mile drive, a gravel road will lead you to a preserved section of the original Route 66 pavement. Here, amidst the quiet, Vernell’s Motel and John’s Modern Cabins once stood, beckoning travelers with promises of rest and respite.
Vernell’s Motel: A Haven Through the Decades
Vernell’s Motel traces its origins back to the 1930s when E.P. Gasser established Gasser’s Tourist Court. This modest establishment comprised six cabins, a filling station, and a novelty shop that catered to the needs of passing motorists. Over time, the novelty shop expanded its offerings to include groceries and refreshing cold sodas, providing a welcome stop for weary travelers.
In 1952, Fred Gasser, E.P. Gasser’s nephew, and his wife, Vernelle, took over the reins of the business. They renamed it Vernell’s Motel and embarked on an expansion project that saw the addition of 12 units, an office building, a petting zoo, and a restaurant. The restaurant became renowned for its hearty fare, serving up delectable steaks, crispy fried chicken, succulent shrimp, and comforting home-style dishes that enticed hungry travelers to pause their journey.
However, progress brought change. In 1957, Route 66 underwent a widening project to accommodate four lanes, necessitating the demolition of the restaurant and filling station. The motel was carefully moved a few feet to the north to make way for the expanded highway. Shortly afterward, the Gassers sold the property and relocated to Rolla, where they established and managed the Colonial Village on the 66 business loop at the north end of town.
In later years, after being bypassed by I-44, the property found a new owner in Ed Goodridge. Together with his loyal canine companion, Chocolate, Goodridge extended an invitation to travelers seeking a tranquil retreat from the distractions of modern life. Eschewing the trappings of e-mail, phones, and remote controls, he offered a warm bed, a hot shower, an old TV, and the opportunity to awaken with the sun, open the screen door, and immerse oneself in the tranquility of the surroundings. Goodridge also encouraged visitors to explore the nearby remnants of John’s Modern Cabins, further immersing them in the history of the area. While the old tourist court and its sign still stand today, the motel is now closed, its doors shuttered to the public.
John’s Modern Cabins: From Rowdy Beginnings to Silent Ruins
A short half-mile down this original stretch of Route 66 lies the haunting remains of John’s Modern Cabins. This establishment had its genesis in 1931 when Bill and Beatrice Bayliss established a motor court consisting of six crude log cabins and a beer/dance hall. Known as Bill and Bess’s Place, it was a lively establishment that resonated with loud music, dancing, and abundant drinking. Its history is also marred by a tragic event: in 1935, a man shot and killed his estranged wife in the dancehall, leading to his imprisonment.
By the 1940s, competition in the area intensified, particularly with the establishment of nearby Fort Leonard Wood in 1940. The Baylisses decided to sell the property, which changed hands three times before John and Lillian Dausch acquired it in 1951. It was then that the name was changed to John’s Modern Cabins. John Dausch soon earned the moniker "Sunday John" for his defiance of local laws by selling beer seven days a week.
In 1957, when Route 66 was widened to four lanes, the Dausches were compelled to move the business a few feet north of its original location. They relocated several of the cabins and constructed additional ones out of concrete, but the old dancehall was abandoned. They also built a larger log cabin for themselves and another building to serve as a laundry room and snack bar.
However, the winds of change were blowing. By 1965, Interstate 44 was under construction, effectively bypassing Route 66 and rendering many of its former stops obsolete. Both John’s Modern Cabins and Vernell’s Motel were bypassed, and the new highway offered no easy access. Business dwindled, and tragedy struck when Lillian Dausch fell ill and passed away. John Dausch, also in declining health, eventually succumbed to the circumstances and closed the establishment. He continued to reside there until his death in 1971. The cabins gradually fell into disrepair, becoming silent witnesses to the passage of time. After 25 years, Route 66 preservationists intervened to save the site from demolition, but the abandoned site continues to deteriorate.
Today, the crumbling remains of the old lodging facility stand as a poignant reminder of a bygone era. The faded, broken neon sign atop one of the cabins still identifies the structures as "John’s Modern Cabins." Ironically, two old outhouses remain standing among the trees and ruins at "Modern Cabins," a stark contrast to the modern amenities of today.
Totem Pole Tourist Camp: A Vanishing Landmark
From here, another gravel road leads back to Arlington Outer Road. A mile further southwest, travelers will encounter a lone remaining building on the south side of the road, once part of the Totem Pole Tourist Camp. This attraction was established by Harry Cochran in 1933, and by the 1950s, it had evolved into a complex that included a novelty shop, cafe, filling station, six cabins, and a shower house. A totem pole stood proudly in front of the building, beckoning travelers to stop and explore. However, when Route 66 was realigned in 1952, only six buildings survived.
Arlington: A Ghost Town with a Storied Past
Continuing along the old road for a little over a mile, travelers will reach the old town of Arlington. Nestled near the confluence of Little Piney Creek and the Gasconade River, this area, set amidst the Ozark Plateau, is a picturesque location that has long drawn visitors to its fishing and waterway activities.
In 1860, the Southwest Branch of the Pacific Railroad (later the St. Louis-San Francisco Railway) planned to extend its line to the mouth of the Little Piney River at present-day Arlington. The line reached Rolla in December 1860, and the roadbed to Arlington was partially complete when railroad construction was halted due to winter weather and the looming Civil War. Troops from the 5th Missouri State Militia Cavalry often patrolled this area during the war.
Though the Southwest Branch operated throughout the conflict, the wear and tear of wartime traffic and the damages incurred during Price’s Raid left the railroad bankrupt. Defaulting on its mortgage bonds, the rail was sold in late 1866 to a group of eastern and Missouri capitalists headed by John C. Fremont, the famed explorer of the Rocky Mountain West and former Union military commander of Missouri. A new South West Pacific company was organized, and construction resumed.
Tracks were laid to the mouth of the Little Piney River, and in 1867, a man from Virginia named Thomas Harrison platted a townsite. With the arrival of the railroad, Arlington experienced a boom as preparations began to build a bridge over the Gasconade River. Within weeks of the town being platted, it was described as having "some thirty good buildings completed and under construction, and double or triple that number under contract." Though the settlement was initially called Little Piney, when a post office was established in 1868, it was named Arlington after Confederate General Robert E. Lee’s confiscated plantation in Virginia.
For a time, Arlington and General Fremont’s town across the Gasconade River – Jerome – were the railroad’s terminus. Many believed that both would become large towns, but as the railroad pushed further west, many people and businesses followed. By 1874, Arlington had become a prominent lumber shipping point and boasted a general store, a hotel, a drug store, a sawmill, and a population of about 150 people.
By the 1890s, the St. Louis-San Francisco Railway was offering seasonal rail excursions to Arlington as a gateway to the Ozark outdoors. These early forays into outdoor recreation soon evolved into commercial endeavors, as skilled Ozark guides led businessmen from St. Louis on expeditions along the Gasconade and Big Piney Rivers for fishing, hunting, and other sports activities. At that time, Arlington and other small towns in the region became known as "resort" cities.
However, by the 1910s, the sporting business shifted with the advent of automobile traffic, and clusters of rentable cottages became fashionable. The roads at that time were in terrible condition, and the Inter-Ozarks Highway Association lobbied for better roads, leading to the creation of Missouri State Highway 14. The new road ran from St. Louis, through the outskirts of Jerome, to Springfield. In 1923, two steel bridges were built: one over the railroad bridge across the Gasconade River and the other across the Little Piney River.
In 1926, Route 66 was aligned along the gravel-surfaced road. The new Highway 66 in this area was the last portion of Missouri to be paved in 1931. During this time, Gasser’s Tourist Court and John’s Modern Cabins were erected to the east. Another main attraction was the Stony Dell Resort, established in 1932 across the Gasconade River. At that time, it was considered part of Arlington. The resort flourished in the 1930s and 1940s, especially after Fort Leanard Wood was established in 1940. Today, the remains of the old resort are considered to be in Jerome.
For Arlington, its heydays were numbered. Like other places along this old alignment of Route 66, the road was rerouted and widened. By 1946, Arlington was home to only about 40 residents and no longer provided gas or other facilities. In the same year, the entire town was purchased by Rowe Carney of Rolla for $10,000 with plans of turning it into a resort. However, that never materialized.
In 1952, the original 1923 road bridge was bypassed when the road was widened to four lanes. Arlington’s post office closed in 1958, and the old Route 66 bridge was demolished when Interstate 44 bypassed the town in 1966. This left Arlington at the end of a dead-end road. Afterward, Arlington became a ghost town, but for years, it continued to host an RV Park until it closed in 2008, marking the last open business in the small community.
Today, Arlington is home to only a few people but continues to display several historic buildings, including the old Arlington Hotel.
A Journey Back in Time
As you traverse Arlington Road, you’re not just driving along a stretch of asphalt; you’re embarking on a journey through time, a passage through the heart of Route 66’s legacy. The remnants of Vernell’s Motel, the ruins of John’s Modern Cabins, the lone building of the Totem Pole Tourist Camp, and the silent streets of Arlington all whisper stories of a bygone era, inviting you to listen and reflect.
To continue your Route 66 adventure, return to I-44 via the same route and proceed to Jerome at exit #172.