Bernal, New Mexico
Nestled in the embrace of the Pecos River Valley, under the watchful gaze of Starvation Peak, lies the unassuming village of Bernal, New Mexico. A place steeped in history and whispered tales, Bernal offers a glimpse into the past, a time when the Santa Fe Trail was a lifeline to the Southwest, and the land held both promise and peril. Its story, though not one of booming growth, is etched into the very landscape, from the imposing butte looming over the village to the quiet stones of its historic chapel.
The genesis of Los Cerritos de Bernal, as it was originally known, dates back to November 1794. Driven by the ambition to cultivate new lands and establish thriving communities, Lorenzo Marquez, representing himself and 51 other families from Santa Fe, petitioned Spanish Governor Fernando Chacón for a land grant. Their request focused on a location called El Vado and the surrounding territories. This plea culminated in the San Miguel del Vado Land Grant, a substantial allocation of 315,000 acres that paved the way for the establishment of several new settlements along the Pecos River Valley, with Bernal being among them.
Today, the village of Bernal sits on the west bank of Bernal Creek, conveniently accessible just south of Interstate 25 at Exit 330. Its location, though seemingly quiet now, once placed it at the heart of a bustling trade route, a vital stop along the legendary Santa Fe Trail. The trail, a conduit for commerce and westward expansion, left an indelible mark on the region, shaping the lives and fortunes of its inhabitants.
The most striking feature of the landscape near Bernal is undoubtedly the imposing butte known as Starvation Peak, also referred to as Bernal Hill. Towering at 7,031 feet, this prominent landmark served as a navigational aid for travelers venturing along the Santa Fe Trail. Its distinctive silhouette against the New Mexico sky offered a sense of direction and a tangible sign of progress on their arduous journeys. At the base of this geological sentinel lay Bernal Springs, a precious source of water that served as a welcome respite for weary travelers, transforming the area into a popular campsite and stage stop along the historic trail.
The imposing nature of Starvation Peak and its significance to travelers are captured in the diary of Major William Anderson Thornton, a member of an 1855 military expedition from St. Louis, Missouri, to New Mexico. In his entry dated August 25th, Thornton vividly describes the peak, referring to it as the "San Barnard Mountains":
"En route [From Las Vegas to Santa Fe] we passed about 7 miles from San Miguel, the San Barnard Mountains [Bernal Hill] about 1500 feet high. It rises with a rapid slope for about 1400 feet and then terminates with a perpendicular overhanging top resembling a stupendous castle set high in the air neatly roofed. I could not bewish that the stars and stripes were wavering from its top. General Kearny strove to place a flag on it when he marched around its foot during the war with Mexico, but he found it an impossible job. The villages, grounds, soil, productions, herds, and c. as before named, but the scenery even hourly becoming more grand and beautiful."
Thornton’s words paint a picture of a formidable landmark, its sheer cliffs and castle-like appearance inspiring awe and respect. The attempted flag placement by General Kearny highlights the strategic importance of the peak, while Thornton’s overall impression underscores the captivating beauty of the New Mexican landscape.
The name "Starvation Peak" itself carries a dark and haunting tale. Legend has it that during the Spanish colonial period, a group of hostile indigenous people drove approximately 36 colonists to the summit of the mesa. Trapped and without access to water or sustenance, they perished either by violence or through the slow, agonizing process of starvation and thirst. This grim narrative first appeared in an 1884 edition of the Detroit Free Press, recounted by a traveling reporter. As time passed, the story evolved, embellished with details that amplified its tragic scope. By 1939, when writers from the Works Progress Administration (WPA) were documenting the region’s history and folklore, the number of colonists supposedly driven to their deaths had ballooned to 120. Despite the lack of concrete evidence to substantiate the legend, the name "Starvation Peak" has persisted for over a century, a somber reminder of the hardships and conflicts that shaped the region’s past.
Despite its initial prominence as a stop along the Santa Fe Trail, Bernal never achieved significant growth. This stagnation was further compounded by the arrival of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad in the early 1880s. Instead of building a station directly within Bernal, the railroad established its depot approximately 1.5 miles to the east. This station, initially named Bernal, was later renamed Chapelle, and a separate community, also called Chapelle, sprang up around it, effectively diverting commerce and development away from the original village. The presence of a post office in Bernal, albeit intermittently between 1881 and 1895, indicates a period of local activity, but it ultimately proved insufficient to counteract the economic shift caused by the railroad.
Amidst the changing tides of time and the fluctuations of fortune, the Capilla de Santa Rita de Cascia (Santa Rita Chapel) stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the community. Constructed of stone in 1916, this charming chapel continues to serve its congregation to this day. Along with the Bernal Store, it represents one of the few remaining structures in Bernal, aside from a handful of private residences. The chapel’s simple yet elegant design and its continued function as a place of worship offer a tangible link to the past, a symbol of faith and resilience in the face of adversity.
In 1926, the burgeoning Route 66 briefly graced the community of Bernal, promising a potential influx of travelers and commerce. However, this connection proved fleeting, as the iconic highway was rerouted in 1937, once again leaving Bernal on the periphery of progress. The shifting routes of transportation arteries highlight the dynamic nature of development and the challenges faced by small communities in maintaining their relevance in a rapidly changing world.
While segments of the Santa Fe Trail likely traversed the area directly west of Starvation Peak, heading towards San Miguel del Vado, a major waypoint on the trail, modern travelers seeking to retrace those historic footsteps must take a slight detour. Today, one must return to Interstate 25, travel seven miles west to Exit 323, and then venture 2.4 miles south on New Mexico Highway 3 through the village of Ribera to reach the San Miguel Del Vado National Historic District.
Interestingly, despite its proximity, Route 66 never actually passed through San Miguel Del Vado. Instead, it carved a more direct path from Bernal to San Jose, located approximately ten miles west of Bernal along Interstate 25. This subtle divergence in routes underscores the distinct historical trajectories of these neighboring communities, each shaped by the forces of transportation and development in its own unique way.
Bernal, New Mexico, may not be a bustling metropolis, but its story is woven into the fabric of the American West. From its origins as part of a Spanish land grant to its role as a landmark along the Santa Fe Trail, the village embodies the resilience and enduring spirit of the people who have called this place home. The legends of Starvation Peak, the echoes of wagon wheels, and the steadfast presence of the Santa Rita Chapel all contribute to the rich tapestry of Bernal’s history, making it a place worth remembering.
© Kathy Alexander/Legends of America, updated March 2025.
Also See:
- New Mexico Route 66
- Route 66 Main Page
- Santa Fe Trail – Highway to the Southwest
- Santa Fe Trail in New Mexico
Sources:
- Hinkley, Jim; Route 66 Encyclopedia, Voyageur Press, 2016
- San Miguel del Bado Land Grant
- Work Progress Administration, New Mexico A Guide To The Colorful State, 1940