Bernalillo, New Mexico – Legends of America
Nestled against the northwestern slope of the majestic Sandia Mountains, Bernalillo, New Mexico, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the American Southwest. Located a mere 15 miles north of the bustling city of Albuquerque, this historic community has witnessed centuries of transformation, from its humble beginnings along the banks of the Rio Grande to its present-day status as a vibrant cultural hub. Bernalillo’s story is inextricably linked to the iconic Camino Real de Tierra Adentro ("Royal Road") and the pre-1937 alignment of Route 66, both of which have left an indelible mark on its landscape and identity.
A Glimpse into the Past: Coronado’s Expedition and the Tiguex War
The annals of Bernalillo’s history trace back to 1540, when the intrepid explorer Francisco Vasquez de Coronado led an expedition north from Mexico, seeking fame and fortune in the uncharted territories. In September of that year, Coronado and his men stumbled upon Tiguex, a cluster of Puebloan Indian villages near present-day Bernalillo. Impressed by the area’s resources and strategic location, Coronado decided to establish his winter headquarters there.
However, the Spaniards’ extended stay soon led to conflict with the indigenous population, culminating in the infamous Tiguex War. This brutal conflict saw the Spaniards inflicting unspeakable atrocities upon the native people, slaughtering hundreds and razing their villages to the ground. In the spring of 1841, Coronado and his men, laden with guilt and burdened by the weight of their actions, abandoned their winter encampment and continued their northward journey.
The Arrival of Juan de Oñate and the Establishment of Santa Fe
In 1598, Juan de Oñate, another prominent figure in Spanish exploration, arrived in the region and established Santa Fe as the capital of "New Spain." This pivotal moment marked the beginning of a new era for Bernalillo, as land grants were bestowed upon several prominent families, including the Perea, Bernal, Gonzales, and Chavez clans.
As word of the area’s fertile lands and abundant resources spread, more settlers flocked to Bernalillo, establishing sprawling ranches and haciendas. The Church of San Francisco was constructed to serve the growing community, featuring a small chapel dedicated to Sandia Pueblo’s patron Saint Anthony. In the 1620s, the introduction of wine grape vines revolutionized the local economy, as families embraced viticulture, transforming the landscape into a tapestry of flourishing vineyards. Even today, these vineyards continue to thrive, serving as a testament to Bernalillo’s enduring connection to its winemaking heritage.
Harmony and Discord: Coexistence with the Pueblo People and the Pueblo Revolt
The Hispanic settlers of Bernalillo established a unique relationship with their indigenous neighbors, the Pueblo peoples of Sandia and Santa Ana. For many years, a sense of harmony and mutual respect prevailed, with the two cultures coexisting peacefully. However, this fragile peace was shattered by the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, a watershed moment in New Mexico’s history.
Prior to the revolt, the Pueblo people warned the residents of Bernalillo about the impending uprising, giving them ample time to evacuate the area unharmed. During the revolt, the Church of San Francisco was consumed by flames, but miraculously, Saint Anthony’s chapel was spared, perhaps a sign of divine intervention or a testament to the enduring faith of the community.
The Reconquest and the "Promesa" to San Lorenzo
Following the Pueblo Revolt, the survivors of Bernalillo fled south to the village of San Lorenzo, now part of El Paso, Texas. Twelve years later, in August 1692, Diego de Vargas embarked on a mission to reconquer New Mexico, vowing to the residents of San Lorenzo that he would commemorate the colonists’ suffering and triumph with solemn dance and public celebrations.
To this day, the people of Bernalillo uphold the "promesa" (promise) to San Lorenzo, honoring their ancestors’ resilience and unwavering faith. Every year on August 10, the community comes together to perform "Los Matachines," a spiritual dance drama that reenacts the conquest, reminding them of their rich cultural heritage.
Resettlement and Growth: Bernalillo as a Center of Trade
In the autumn of 1695, De Vargas led the resettlement of Bernalillo, with many of the original land grant families returning to reclaim their ancestral homes. By 1698, the village of Bernalillo was officially established, complete with a garrison of soldiers to protect the settlers from potential threats.
In 1701, Felipe Gutierrez, a soldier and re-conqueror of New Mexico, was granted 4.5 miles of land, while Jose Perea received a grant of three miles in 1824. These land grants would eventually form the foundation of the town of Bernalillo, which by 1776 had grown to a population of 81 people. By 1693, the settlement had become a vital center of trade throughout the region, attracting merchants and travelers from far and wide.
Bernalillo in the 19th Century: Prosperity and Progress
When the United States acquired New Mexico in 1846, Bernalillo was already a well-established and prosperous town. Its strategic location along major trade routes and its fertile lands had contributed to its economic success. Phillip St. George Cook, who led the Mormon Battalion to California, passed through Bernalillo and was struck by its beauty, describing it as "the prettiest village in the Territory." He marveled at the green meadows, well-built houses, church, cottonwoods, vineyards, and orchards, all jealously walled in, and the numbers of small fat horses grazing peacefully.
The decade following the Civil War brought an influx of eastern and midwestern farmers and livestock raisers, drawn by the promise of cheap land and the allure of the fertile valley and high grassy mesas. The telegraph arrived in 1875, connecting Bernalillo to the outside world, and the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad followed in 1881, further boosting the town’s economy and facilitating trade.
The Route 66 Era and Beyond: Change and Continuity
In 1926, Route 66, the "Mother Road," snaked its way through Bernalillo, transforming the village into an important trading center and a shipping point for cattle and lumber. However, this golden age was short-lived, as Route 66 was rerouted in 1937, bypassing the area and diverting traffic elsewhere.
Despite this setback, Bernalillo persevered, adapting to the changing times while preserving its rich cultural heritage. Today, the town remains a retail trade and service center for the Rio Grande basin, with a population of approximately 9,200 people. Bernalillo proudly celebrates its Spanish and Native American history through its culture, traditions, architecture, and events.
A Legacy of Culture and Tradition: Las Fiestas de San Lorenzo and the New Mexico Wine Festival
Bernalillo continues to honor its past through the annual Las Fiestas de San Lorenzo, a centuries-old celebration held every August 9, 10, and 11. The highlight of the festival is the ritual dance drama known as Los Matachines, a vibrant and moving spectacle that embodies the town’s cultural identity.
Wine and vineyards remain an integral part of Bernalillo’s heritage, and the New Mexico Wine Festival at Bernalillo, held each Labor Day Weekend, pays homage to this enduring tradition. Visitors can sample a variety of locally produced wines, savor delicious food, and enjoy live music, creating a memorable experience that captures the essence of Bernalillo’s spirit.
Exploring the Surroundings: Pueblos, Ruins, and Historic Churches
Bernalillo is surrounded by a wealth of historical and cultural attractions, including the inhabited pueblos of Sandia, Santa Ana, and San Felipe, each with its own unique history and traditions. The Kuaua Ruins (Coronado Historic Site), an ancient pueblo settled in about 1325, offer a glimpse into the lives of the region’s earliest inhabitants.
Our Lady of Sorrows Church, built in 1857, stands as a testament to Bernalillo’s enduring faith and architectural heritage. Located at 301 S Camino Del Pueblo, the church was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1977, ensuring its preservation for future generations.
Bernalillo, New Mexico, is more than just a town; it is a living testament to the enduring spirit of the American Southwest. With its rich history, vibrant culture, and stunning natural beauty, Bernalillo offers a unique and unforgettable experience for all who visit.