Ghosts of Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
Clear Creek Canyon, nestled in the heart of Chaffee County, Colorado, beckons travelers with its rich tapestry of history and breathtaking landscapes. This area, steeped in the echoes of Native American heritage and the fervor of the mining boom, offers a unique glimpse into Colorado’s past. A journey along Highway 24 north of Buena Vista, turning onto County Road 390, unveils a twelve-mile stretch of preserved mining camps, ghost towns, and relics from the Silver Boom era, each with its own story to tell.
A Land Shaped by History
The story of Clear Creek Canyon begins long before the arrival of European settlers. For centuries, the Ute tribe called this area home, their presence dating back to the 15th century. Primarily inhabiting the Arkansas River Valley, the Ute people thrived on the abundance of the land, hunting deer, buffalo, elk, and other game, and gathering roots and berries from the mountains. As the seasons changed, they followed the game, venturing into the high country during the summer months before retreating to the foothills in winter.
The arrival of the Spanish introduced horses to the Ute through trade, significantly expanding their hunting range and mobility. In the early 1800s, other tribes, including the Arapaho and Cheyenne, also frequented the region, adding to the diverse cultural landscape.
The early 19th century also marked the arrival of French fur trappers and traders, drawn to the area’s rich beaver population. However, their presence was fraught with danger due to the Native American presence. Renowned frontiersman Kit Carson, during his early years at Bent’s Fort, spent winters in this region. His rapport with the Ute was remarkable, fostering mutual respect and understanding. As Charles Johnston noted in his 1910 book, Famous Scouts, Carson was so well-regarded that he was welcomed into their camps, sharing their customs and offering counsel.
The Gold Rush of the late 1850s irrevocably altered the landscape, drawing thousands of prospectors to the newly established Colorado Territory in 1861. The influx of Europeans strained relations with the Ute tribe. While Chief Ouray was known for his amicable nature and willingness to assist settlers, other Ute groups resisted the encroachment on their ancestral lands. A treaty in 1868 led to the relocation of the Ute tribe to a reservation in western Colorado Territory, opening the Arkansas River Valley to further settlement and agricultural development.
The Allure of Clear Creek Canyon
The mining history of Clear Creek Canyon began around 1867, sparked by a tale of lost burros. Prospectors from Leadville, while camping in the canyon, discovered gold in the creek bed while searching for their lost pack animals. This discovery ignited a boom in the mid to late 1870s, with four major claims – Tasmania, the Fortune, the Banker, and the Swiss Boy – becoming significant ore producers amidst numerous smaller mines.
Beaver City: A Glimpse of the Past
As you venture into Clear Creek Canyon, the first ghost town you’ll encounter is Beaver City. Today, only a couple of cabins remain, dating back to around 1880. These weathered structures offer a poignant reminder of the early days of settlement and the hardships faced by those who sought their fortune in the mountains.
Vicksburg: A Living Museum
A short drive from Beaver City lies Vicksburg, a more substantial and well-preserved mining camp. Platted in 1881, though likely inhabited by miners as early as 1867, Vicksburg owes its existence to the Swiss Boy Mine. In its prime, Vicksburg boasted over 40 buildings, including two saloons, two hotels, a store, a boarding house, an assay office, a livery stable, a blacksmith, a post office, and even a two-story schoolhouse. A stagecoach provided daily transport to and from Granite, located 24 miles away. At its peak, Vicksburg was home to nearly 700 residents.
Visitors to Vicksburg are greeted by a public museum, offering a captivating glimpse into the town’s history. Here, you can examine old mining equipment, wagons, and other artifacts that paint a vivid picture of life in a bustling mining community. Take a moment to sit on the bench near the museum entrance and listen to the recording about Vicksburg’s history while soaking in the surrounding scenery.
Across the "main" street from the museum, a row of private cabins stands as a testament to the town’s enduring legacy. These cabins have been continuously occupied since their construction, providing a tangible link to the past. The "main" street is lined with poplar trees, planted by the early miners, which are irrigated by ditches dug along each side of the street. These ditches not only provided water for the trees but also served as a means of keeping food cold and supplying water for firefighting.
Maintained by the Clear Creek Canyon Historical Society, Vicksburg was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1977, solidifying its importance as a historical landmark.
Rockdale & Crescent Mining Camp: Echoes of Industry
Two miles beyond Vicksburg lies the Rockdale-Silverdale area, also known as Crescent Mining Camp. Here, you’ll find four restored cabins, two of which are believed to be original structures from Rockdale. While much of Rockdale is now submerged under beaver ponds, one of the cabins features a marker commemorating the 1881 camp. The Forest Service rents out these cabins during the summer months, offering a rustic experience with no amenities and no drinking water.
Winfield: A Journey to the End of the Road
Continuing two miles further on County Road 390, or twelve miles from the start of your journey, you’ll reach Winfield, the final ghost town on the Clear Creek Canyon trek.
Located at the junction of the north and south forks of Clear Creek, Winfield has gone by several names. A historical marker at the town’s entrance references an article from the Chaffee County Times on August 12, 1881: "Lucknow is the name given to the old town of Florence. Winfield is the name of the post office so that it is a much named town."
While a cabin existed here as early as 1861, Winfield’s heyday didn’t arrive until 1890, when the population peaked at around 1,500. The town boasted three saloons, three stores, two hotels, a post office, a boarding house, a mill, a smelter, a concentrator, a church, and a school, which now serves as a museum. The Ball Cabin across the street also functions as a museum, showcasing artifacts from the mining era.
In addition to numerous cabins, most of which appear to be privately owned, a historic cemetery lies about a quarter-mile past Winfield. The cemetery contains the graves of 26 individuals, including a man who was reportedly stoned to death by local Native Americans after cheating them. The museums and cemetery are maintained by the Clear Creek Canyon Historical Society.
The End of an Era
The harsh Rocky Mountain winters forced residents of these mining camps to leave each year, returning in the spring to resume their work. The Clear Creek Canyon mining industry suffered a significant blow with the Silver market crash of 1893. Although mining activities resumed in the early 1900s, the last ore was extracted from the canyon in 1918.
Today, the museums at Vicksburg and Winfield are open to the public during the summer months, offering a glimpse into the lives of those who once called these towns home. The road remains open year-round, allowing visitors to experience the beauty and history of Clear Creek Canyon regardless of the season.
Clear Creek Canyon stands as a testament to the resilience and determination of those who sought their fortune in the Colorado mountains. It is a place where the echoes of the past resonate, reminding us of the rich and complex history that has shaped this remarkable landscape.