Council Grove, Kansas – Supplying the Santa Fe Trail
Council Grove, Kansas, a town steeped in the rich tapestry of American history, stands proudly as the county seat of Morris County. Nestled on the banks of the meandering Neosho River in eastern Kansas, this locale boasts a legacy intricately interwoven with the famed Santa Fe Trail. From its humble beginnings as a gathering point for wagon trains to its pivotal role in supplying westward expansion, Council Grove holds a unique and significant place in the annals of the American West.
The narrative of Council Grove begins long before its formal establishment. As early as 1820, accounts from intrepid travelers mentioned the geographical point where Council Grove, Kansas now resides. However, its true genesis lies in the year 1825. It was then that a crucial treaty was forged between U.S. commissioners and the Osage Nation. This agreement granted a right-of-way for the Santa Fe Trail, a vital artery for trade and westward migration. Ironically, a portion of this very trail would later evolve into the main thoroughfare of Council Grove itself, forever linking the town’s fate to the legendary route. The treaty’s namesake originated from the fact that the negotiations took place in a "Grove", thus immortalizing the site.
The significance of this "Grove" extended beyond mere negotiation. Even before a town took root, the area served as a vital staging ground for travelers embarking on the arduous journey west. Wagon trains, often vulnerable to attack, would congregate in the relative safety of the grove. They banded together to form larger, more formidable groups before venturing into the potentially hostile territories further along the Santa Fe Trail. Beyond the boundaries of this protective haven, the threat of encounters with Native American tribes loomed large, making the collective strength found in numbers a crucial survival tactic.
A prominent landmark within this gathering point was a venerable oak tree, affectionately known as "The Post Office Oak." Beginning around 1825 and continuing for the next two decades, this natural bulletin board served as a crucial communication hub for travelers. Caravans passing through would leave messages at the base of the tree, tucked away in a concealed cache. These missives conveyed a range of vital information, from updates on water sources and potential dangers ahead to opportunities for trade or assistance along the trail. The Post Office Oak served as an early form of social networking, connecting individuals traversing vast distances and contributing to the shared experience of westward expansion. The legacy of Council Grove, Kansas is in part to the communications that took place at this location.
The landscape of the region underwent a significant shift in 1846 when the Kanza (also known as Kaw) Indians signed a treaty with the U.S. government. This agreement ceded their reservation land along the Kansas River near Topeka. In exchange, the Kanza were granted a smaller reservation in the upper valley of the Neosho River, in what is now Morris County. By April 1847, this 20-square-mile reservation was officially established near Council Grove, Kansas, and the Kanza people were relocated to their new homeland. This relocation, while impacting the Kanza people, also opened the door for further settlement and development in the Council Grove area.
That very same year, Seth M. Hays, a name synonymous with the early history of Council Grove, arrived and became the first permanent settler. Hays established a trading post, facilitating commerce with the Kanza Indians and providing essential supplies to travelers along the Santa Fe Trail. He also constructed the first dwelling in the settlement, a humble log cabin situated on the north side of the trail, near the west bank of the Neosho River. This cabin served as both a store and a home for Hays, his adopted daughter, and a freed slave, marking the modest beginnings of a burgeoning community.
The following year, in 1848, further development came to the area as Mitchell arrived to serve as a government blacksmith. He brought with him his wife, who was the first white woman to reside in Morris County. Her arrival signified a shift in the demographics and social fabric of the burgeoning settlement, adding a new dimension to its evolving identity.
The influence of religion and education began to take shape in 1849 when the Methodist Episcopal Church initiated the construction of the Kaw Mission. The Kaw Mission officially opened its doors in 1850, with Thomas S. Huffaker serving as its first teacher. Huffaker continued in this role until the school closed in 1854. The Kaw Mission held significance not only for the Kanza children it initially served but also as the first school for the children of the settlers who were increasingly drawn to the area. Today, the Kaw Mission still stands as a tangible reminder of the town’s early history, serving as a museum that preserves and interprets this important chapter.
For the ensuing years, Council Grove experienced a period of sustained growth and prosperity. Traders flocked to the area, establishing various businesses along the Santa Fe Trail. This influx of commercial activity was driven by Council Grove’s strategic location. It was the last major trading post along the trail before travelers reached New Mexico, making it a vital resupply point for those venturing westward.
The period from 1849 to 1854 marked a golden era for Council Grove. Its reputation as a prominent trading post spread far and wide, becoming well-known to anyone undertaking the journey across the plains. By 1854, key figures in the local economy included Seth M. Hays, the Choteau brothers, the Columbia brothers, and Charles H. Withington. Together with their employees and government personnel, these individuals constituted the entirety of the settlement, not just in Council Grove but throughout the entirety of Morris County.
In October 1854, Governor Andrew Reeder visited Council Grove with the intention of designating it as the territorial capital. However, this plan was thwarted by the fact that the land was still under Indian possession at the time. This episode underscores the complexities of the relationship between the settlers, the government, and the Native American tribes who had long inhabited the region.
Further infrastructure developed in 1856 when M. Gilkey constructed the first hotel in the town. This hotel stood on the south side of Main Street, directly across from the original log cabin built by Seth Hays in 1847. Shortly after, Baker and Sewell constructed the next home. In 1857, Seth Hays continued the building boom by constructing the Hays House, a restaurant that stands today as the oldest continuously operating restaurant west of the Mississippi River. The Last Chance Store was built in the same year.
In 1858, the Legislature formally recognized the town’s existence by approving the incorporation of the Town Company of Council Grove. The initial officers of this company included T.S. Huffaker, Christopher Columbia, Seth Hays, and Hiram Northrup. With this official sanction, the townsite was surveyed, and Council Grove officially began its journey as an incorporated settlement. The community established its first newspaper, the Kansas Press, in 1859, under the leadership of S.N. Wood.
Despite these signs of progress, the growth of Council Grove remained relatively slow, even in its early days. The town’s economy relied heavily on trade with the Kanza Indians and the steady stream of wagon trains traversing the Santa Fe Trail. In 1860, the town had only two stores, one owned by Seth Hays and the other by Malcolm Conn. At that time, the entire county had a population of approximately 770 residents. The devastating drought of 1860 ravaged Morris County and the entire state of Kansas, leaving the land desolate and causing a further decline in the county’s population.
In 1861, S.N. Wood sold the Kansas Press to A.I. Baker, who subsequently renamed the newspaper the Council Grove Press. However, Baker’s tenure as publisher was short-lived, as he suspended publication after only a month. The onset of the Civil War further complicated matters. When Colonel S.N. Wood returned to Council Grove, he discovered that Missouri bushwhackers had killed A.I. Baker. Wood resumed publication of the newspaper and managed it until 1865, when he sold it. The following year, it moved to another county.
In 1866, Council Grove’s prosperity suffered another blow when the Stage Line Company relocated to Junction City. As a result, wagon trains that had previously formed in Council Grove now gathered in Junction City and traveled westward along the Smoky Hill Trail. This shift in transportation routes significantly reduced the volume of trade flowing through Council Grove.
Despite these setbacks, the community persevered. In 1867, Seth M. Hays constructed the first substantial home in the settlement, using bricks manufactured at a local factory. This historic home still stands on Wood Street today and is operated as a museum by the Morris County Historical Society, serving as a testament to the enduring legacy of one of Council Grove’s founding fathers.
The development of infrastructure continued in 1868 with the establishment of the first school in Council Grove. In the same year, the Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad extended its line through Morris County, bringing new residents and stimulating economic activity in Council Grove. The arrival of the railroad signaled a shift away from the Santa Fe Trail as the primary mode of transportation, marking a new chapter in the town’s history.
Morris County experienced its last major Indian scare in June 1868 when approximately 400 Cheyenne Indians entered Council Grove, armed and painted for war. Although their destination was a confrontation with the Kanza Indians, the settlers of Council Grove were caught by surprise and prepared for any potential conflict. The Cheyenne Indians moved on, engaging in battle with the Kanza Indians outside of Council Grove, an event known as the Cheyenne Outbreak of Morris County.
On April 30, 1869, Council Grove was officially incorporated as a city of the third class. In June 1870, the first election was held for city officers, with R.B. Lockwood elected as mayor. By 1871, several new settlements had emerged in the county, leading to a contentious county seat election. Parkerville, after becoming an incorporated town, challenged Council Grove for the county seat, prompting an election to resolve the issue. Both sides engaged in various forms of political maneuvering, including bringing in outside voters. The election resulted in a victory for Council Grove, with 899 votes compared to Parkerville’s 413.
By 1872, the Santa Fe Railroad had reached the Colorado border, effectively ending the era of the Santa Fe Trail as the dominant transportation route.
In 1873, the Kanza Indians were removed from their reservation in Morris County and relocated to Oklahoma Territory, opening up more land in the county for white settlement.
On November 9, 1875, a fire caused extensive damage in Council Grove, destroying the school building, Shamleffer’s Mill, and other city property, resulting in losses of $35,000. A new schoolhouse was not rebuilt until 1883, when a stone building was erected.
Despite these challenges and setbacks, Council Grove persisted and evolved. By the early 1880s, the town boasted a large stone courthouse, a steam-powered flouring mill, nine grocery stores, two hardware stores, several dry goods stores, three restaurants, a furniture store, a bank, three livery stables, a lumber yard, four hotels, and four churches.
By the early 1900s, the town had grown to a population of over 2,500 people and had two banks, an international money order post office with five rural routes, express and telegraph offices, a telephone exchange, an electric lighting plant and waterworks, grain elevators, three newspapers, an opera house, several good hotels, and numerous retail businesses.
Over the next century, Council Grove continued to progress, maintaining its agricultural and ranching economy while preserving its rich history. Today, the town has a population of approximately 2,140 people. It offers a glimpse into its Santa Fe Trail heritage with more than 24 historical sites, including the Hays House, the oldest continuously operated restaurant west of the Mississippi River, the Kaw Mission, Hermit’s Cave, remnants of Santa Fe Trail ruts, several museums, and more. Historic Tour brochures provide a self-guided tour of these historical sites and can be picked up at the Chamber of Commerce at 207 W Main Street.
Council Grove also offers recreational opportunities at two lakes: the 3,000-acre Council Grove Reservoir and the City Lake, providing camping, boating, fishing, and picnicking.
Council Grove, Kansas remains a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West.