Cumberland Gap National Historical Park
Nestled within the embrace of the Appalachian Mountains, the Cumberland Gap National Historical Park stands as a testament to the spirit of westward expansion that defined the early American experience. Spanning nearly 32 square miles, this historical park straddles the borders of three states – Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia – creating a unique tapestry of natural beauty and historical significance. It serves as a living memorial to the courage and determination of the pioneers who braved the wilderness, seeking new lives and opportunities in the lands beyond the mountains.
The park’s centerpiece, the Cumberland Gap itself, is a natural break in the formidable Allegheny Mountain chain. For centuries, this gap served as a crucial passageway, a gateway to the west. Through it snaked the famed Wilderness Road, a route etched into the landscape by the relentless efforts of early settlers. This path, pioneered in 1775 under the guidance of the legendary Daniel Boone, became a vital artery for those venturing into the uncharted territories between the Appalachian range and the mighty Mississippi River.
Before the arrival of European settlers, the region surrounding the Cumberland Gap National Historical Park was a domain steeped in Native American history. The Cherokee and Shawnee tribes, though not permanent residents of Kentucky, traversed the gap along ancient game trails. These trails, later known as the "Warriors’ Path" by white emigrants, were integral to hunting expeditions. The fertile lands of Kentucky, rich with grazing areas, attracted vast herds of buffalo, deer, and other game. This abundance of resources led to frequent clashes between tribes vying for control of the hunting grounds, painting a picture of both prosperity and conflict.
The 18th century witnessed a dramatic shift in the demographics of the United States. The majority of the population resided east of the Appalachian Mountains. However, this began to change in 1750 with the discovery of the Cumberland Gap by Dr. Thomas Walker, a surveyor and physician. Walker, leading an expedition sponsored by the Loyal Land Co., identified the natural passage and named it "Cave Gap." The Loyal Land Co. had ambitious plans to acquire an 800,000-acre land grant in the region, highlighting the growing interest in the lands beyond the mountains.
Following his discovery, Walker followed the "Warriors’ Path" northwest for about ten miles to the Cumberland River, which he also named. The expedition built a log cabin near the river, marking one of the earliest structures erected by European settlers in Kentucky. Although the expedition was unsuccessful in finding the Bluegrass region of central Kentucky, the party crossed the mountains north of the Cumberland Gap and returned home, having marked a critical point for future exploration and settlement.
The French and Indian War (1754-63) and Pontiac’s Rebellion (1763-65) temporarily halted further exploration of the region. However, with the return of peace, intrepid hunters began to venture through the Cumberland Gap. The trail through the mountains was soon called the "Warrior’s Path" by early settlers for a good reason. Not only were attacks between the Indian tribes common, but the natives and encroaching pioneers also clashed in numerous confrontations.
Among these early explorers, Daniel Boone stands as a prominent figure. In 1769, John Finley, a fellow campaigner in the French and Indian War, convinced Boone of the potential of the Bluegrass region, accessible through the Cumberland Gap. Following the "Warriors’ Path," Boone and his companions journeyed north to a branch of the Kentucky River. Boone spent nearly two years exploring the region, often alone in potentially hostile territory. In September 1773, his attempt to settle the area was unsuccessful. Early in 1774, during Lord Dunmore’s War, Boone traversed the Cumberland Gap, covering 800 miles to warn settlers of impending danger.
The defeat of the Native Americans in October cleared the way for an ambitious plan to settle Kentucky. In 1775, under the terms of the Treaty of Sycamore Shoals, Judge Richard Henderson acquired Cherokee claims to 20 million acres south of the Kentucky River for his Transylvania Company. To facilitate the establishment of his private colony, Henderson enlisted Daniel Boone to blaze a trail through the Cumberland Gap, thus marking the birth of the Wilderness Road. Starting from Long Island of the Holston in present-day Kingsport, Tennessee, in March 1775, Boone led a team of 30 axmen in cutting a road through the wilderness. Within a month, they reached the Kentucky River, 208 miles from their starting point, where they erected Fort Boonesborough. Henderson soon arrived with reinforcements for the fort.
The opening of the Wilderness Road attracted a surge of pioneers, leading to the establishment of numerous "Kentucky stations." However, tensions arose when Henderson attempted to assert authority over the new settlements. In 1776, Virginia formally organized Kentucky as its westernmost county, effectively ending Henderson’s plans for a private colony. Despite this, the Wilderness Road cemented the permanence of white settlement in Kentucky. During the American Revolution (1775-83), westward movement slowed, with the Cumberland Gap frequently closed due to threats from British-backed Native Americans.
Following the American Revolution, a flood of westward traffic flowed along the Wilderness Road. By 1783, some 12,000 settlers had entered Kentucky, primarily through the Cumberland Gap. When Kentucky joined the Union in 1792, its population was 100,000, growing to 220,000 by 1800. In 1796, the Wilderness Road was widened and improved for wagon traffic. However, the development of more direct routes across the mountains and the final defeat of the northern Native American tribes eventually diverted much of the traffic away from the road. By 1825, the road primarily served as a route for livestock being transported to eastern markets.
During the Civil War, the Cumberland Gap became a strategic stronghold, coveted by both Union and Confederate forces. Union commanders viewed the gap as a means to divide the Confederacy and disrupt communication and supply lines. Confederate commanders recognized this threat and saw the gap as a vital defensive position. Both sides occupied the Cumberland Gap twice during the war. The Union army finally captured it for good in September 1863.
For early settlers, the Cumberland Gap represented a gateway to a new life. Traveling primarily on foot from as far away as Pennsylvania, these pioneers sought land and opportunity. Often traveling in groups for safety, they possessed an unwavering determination to penetrate the wilderness. Survival in the mountains required resourcefulness and self-sufficiency. Fertile valleys between mountain ridges provided arable land, while wild plants served as remedies for common ailments. Corn and sorghum became staples, and livestock provided food and other resources. Many of these families were of Scots-Irish descent, bringing with them their traditions, music, and language.
Today, the Cumberland Gap National Historical Park allows visitors to explore its rich history, breathtaking overlooks, unique rock formations, cascading waterfalls, caves, and extensive trail system. The park encompasses approximately two miles of the Wilderness Road, remnants of an early iron furnace, Civil War fortifications, and the Tri-State Peak, where Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia converge. From the Pinnacle, visitors can behold panoramic views spanning multiple states. The park features approximately 85 miles of trails, camping facilities, abundant wildlife, guided tours, and a visitor center housing a museum with interactive exhibits, films, and regional crafts.
Cumberland Gap National Historical Park
91 Bartlett Park Road
Middlesboro, Kentucky 40965
(606) 248-2817
http://www.nps.gov/cuga/index.htm