Determined For Oregon in 1843

The year 1843 marked a significant period of westward expansion in American history, fueled by the allure of fertile lands and new opportunities in the Oregon Territory. Among the many pioneers who embarked on this arduous journey was Peter Hardeman Burnett, a man whose experiences and reflections provide a compelling glimpse into the realities of life on the Oregon Trail. Burnett’s account, drawn from his book Recollections and Opinions of an Old Pioneer, published in 1880, details the challenges, triumphs, and human dynamics that defined this pivotal chapter in American history.

Peter Hardeman Burnett, born in Tennessee in 1807, spent his early years in Tennessee and Missouri, where he practiced law and served as a district attorney. In 1843, driven by a combination of personal circumstances and a vision for the future, he joined a large emigrant party bound for Determined For Oregon in 1843. His experiences in Oregon would later propel him into prominence as a lawyer, judge, and politician. He then moved to California and became the state’s first governor.

The decision to undertake such a perilous journey was not taken lightly. Burnett’s narrative reveals a complex interplay of motivations. The Congressional report of Senator Appleton presented Oregon as a land of promise, with the prospect of acquiring 640 acres of land for himself and an additional 160 acres for each child, a total of 1,600 acres for Burnett and his large family. This prospect was made possible by a bill pending in Congress introduced in the Senate by Dr. Linn, one of the Senators from Missouri. Burnett saw the potential for a thriving American community to flourish on the Pacific coast, and he desired to contribute to this ambitious undertaking. Moreover, his wife’s delicate health and mounting debts in Missouri served as additional catalysts for seeking a new beginning in the West. He saw that the readiest way to settle the conflicting claims of Great Britain and the United States was to fill the country with American citizens. He decided to become Determined For Oregon in 1843.

Before embarking on this expedition, Burnett consulted his creditors, who offered their full consent and encouragement. With their blessing, Burnett embarked on the task of organizing a wagon company, traveling to surrounding counties and delivering speeches to attract fellow emigrants. By May 8, 1843, he departed Weston, Missouri, with two ox wagons, a smaller two-horse wagon, four yokes of oxen, two mules, and a supply of provisions. The destination was a rendezvous point twelve miles west of Independence, Missouri, just beyond the state line, where the emigrant party would formally assemble. The story of Peter Hardeman Burnett begins with Determined For Oregon in 1843.

The journey across the Oregon Trail was a crucible that tested the limits of human endurance and resilience. As Burnett aptly observed, it was "one of the most conclusive tests of character and the very best school to study human nature." While the emigrants faced no major conflicts with Native Americans, they were constantly beset by a myriad of minor vexations that strained their patience and exposed their true character. Missing oxen, mules, struggles for the best encampments and supplies of wood and water, all contributed to heightened tensions and conflicts within the group. Early in the journey, fistfights erupted, but the pioneers soon realized that physical altercations were counterproductive and instead resorted to verbal abuse.

Perhaps the most pressing concern for the emigrants was the welfare of their livestock. The grueling journey took a heavy toll on the animals, with oxen gradually weakening and succumbing to the harsh conditions. Burnett noted that the ox proved to be the most reliable draft animal, possessing greater hardihood and resilience than mules or horses. However, once an ox was broken down, there was little hope of recovery. The emigrants developed a strong bond with their oxen, recognizing their crucial role in ensuring their survival.

Beyond the physical challenges, the Oregon Trail also exposed the foibles and vanities of human nature. Burnett observed that some emigrants engaged in reckless racing with their teams, jeopardizing the well-being of their animals for the sake of pride. Wastefulness was also a common issue, with provisions being discarded and freely offered to others. However, as the journey progressed and resources dwindled, the emigrants learned to adapt and conserve their supplies.

The emigrant party was a diverse group, and the need for structure and leadership quickly became apparent. On May 18th, a meeting was held at the rendezvous point, where a committee was formed to inspect wagons and establish rules and regulations for the journey. Burnett delivered a speech to the emigrants, outlining the importance of cooperation and discipline. At a subsequent meeting on May 20th at the Big Springs, Kansas, further rules were adopted, and Captain John Gant was hired as a pilot to guide the party as far as Fort Hall, Idaho. However, the departure was delayed due to concerns about the availability of sufficient grass to sustain the livestock.

Finally, on May 22nd, the emigrant party set out from the rendezvous, reaching Elm Grove, Kansas, approximately fifteen miles distant. Burnett described the scene as a picturesque tableau of white-sheeted wagons and fine teams traversing the green prairie. The evening was filled with music and laughter, but these early joys would soon fade as the journey grew more arduous.

As the company moved westward, they faced numerous obstacles, including river crossings that required ingenuity and resourcefulness. On May 24th, the wagons were lowered down the steep banks of the Wakarusa River using ropes. By May 26th, they had reached the Kansas River, and the arduous crossing was completed on the 31st. It was at this point that they encountered Fathers De Smet and De Vos, missionaries to the Flathead Indians.

On June 1st, the company formally organized itself, electing Peter H. Burnett as Captain, J.W. Nesmith as Orderly Sergeant, and a council of nine members. However, Burnett’s tenure as Captain was short-lived. On June 6th, the emigrants encountered a war party of Kansas and Osage Indians, who had recently taken a Pawnee scalp. Captain Gant advised providing them with provisions to avoid potential conflict, and the emigrants complied.

Burnett, realizing the difficulties of leading such a large and diverse group, resigned his position on June 8th, and William Martin was elected as his successor. Despite relinquishing his leadership role, Burnett continued to document his experiences and observations.

One notable event occurred on June 12th, when Captain Gant killed a buffalo. The emigrants, eager to taste buffalo meat for the first time, found it to be surprisingly tough and unpalatable. On June 15th, one of the party killed an antelope, an animal renowned for its speed and keen eyesight. Burnett provided a detailed description of the antelope’s habits and the challenges of hunting it.

After crossing the Kansas River, the emigrants traveled along the Blue River. On June 17th, they encountered a band of Pawnee Indians returning from a buffalo hunt, who generously shared their dried buffalo meat. On June 18th, the party crossed from the Blue River to the Great Platte River, covering an impressive distance of 25-30 miles.

Burnett described the Platte River as a remarkable stream, running for hundreds of miles through a desert without tributaries, much like the Nile. The Platte River valley was approximately 20 miles wide, with low banks and vast river bottoms covered in grass. Ten miles from the river, the tablelands rose about 150 feet above the river bottoms, covered in short buffalo grass.

The emigrants faced challenges navigating the buffalo paths that crisscrossed the plains, which were worn deep into the ground by the animals’ constant journeys to the river for water. The monotony of the journey up the Platte River, combined with the warm sunshine, often induced drowsiness among the drivers. The scarcity of fuel was another major concern, forcing the emigrants to rely on dry willows, driftwood, and even buffalo chips to build fires.

On June 20th, a hunting party was sent out, returning on the 24th with a supply of fresh buffalo meat. Burnett considered buffalo meat to be the most excellent of all meats, with a distinct flavor superior to beef. He also noted the buffalo’s remarkable hardiness and speed, as well as its acute sense of smell.

On one occasion, Burnett and a group of hunters pursued a band of buffalo, but the wounded bull turned to face them, exhibiting a fierce determination. Burnett dismounted and attempted to shoot the animal on foot, dodging behind his pony to avoid its attacks. Finally, the buffalo succumbed to its wounds and collapsed.

On June 27th, a group of buffalo bulls boldly crossed the Platte River towards the emigrant wagons. The men formed a line and shot at the animals, killing three of them. By June 29th, the emigrants reached a grove of timber on the south bank of the South Fork of the Platte River, a welcome sight after traveling 173 miles in eleven days.

On July 1st, the emigrants constructed makeshift boats by covering their wagon boxes with green buffalo hides. From July 1st to the 5th, they were engaged in crossing the river. On July 7th, they reached the south bank of the North Fork of the Platte, having traveled 29 miles from the South Fork. On July 14th, they arrived at Fort Laramie, Wyoming, where they spent two days repairing their wagons.

At Fort Laramie, they encountered a Cheyenne chief and some of his people. Burnett was impressed by the chief’s noble appearance and dignified demeanor. He witnessed an incident where a foolish young man insulted the chief, but Burnett intervened and explained that the young man was not responsible for his actions. The chief, understanding Burnett’s explanation, was satisfied.

As the emigrants continued their journey up the South Fork of the Platte, they encountered several Native Americans who kept their distance and did not pose any threat. The sheer size and spectacle of the emigrant train, with its long line of wagons, teams, cattle, and people, likely impressed the Indians and deterred them from any hostile actions.

On July 24th, the emigrants forded the North Fork of the Platte River without difficulty, having traveled 122 miles from Fort Laramie in nine days. On July 27th, they arrived at the Sweetwater River, 55 miles from the North Fork. On August 3rd, they caught their first glimpse of the snow-capped peaks of the Rocky Mountains. On August 4th, a member of the party, Mr. Paine, died of fever and was buried on the plains.

From August 5th to 7th, the emigrants crossed the summit of the Rocky Mountains, and on the evening of the 7th, they reached the first waters that flowed into the Pacific Ocean. On August 9th, they reached the Big Sandy River, where another member of the party, Mr. Stevenson, died of fever and was buried. On August 11th, they crossed Green River, a beautiful stream known for its green color and abundant fish.

On August 12th, the emigrants learned that Dr. Whitman had discovered a shorter route through the mountains via Fort Bridger. They decided to take this route, arriving at Fort Bridger on August 14th, having traveled 219 miles from their first camp on the Sweetwater River in 18 days. On August 17th, they reached the banks of Bear River, a clear stream with plenty of fish and waterfowl. On August 22nd, they arrived at the great Soda Springs, and on August 27th, they reached Fort Hall, Idaho, 235 miles from Fort Bridger.

Fort Hall was a trading post belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company, managed by Mr. Grant, who was known for his kindness and hospitality. The fort was situated on the south bank of the Snake River, in a fertile valley covered with grass and watered by springs. The valley had once been a major buffalo habitat, and their skulls were scattered throughout the area.

At Fort Hall, the emigrants parted ways with their pilot, Captain John Gant. Dr. Marcus Whitman, who was present at the fort, became their pilot from there to the Grande Ronde Valley, where he left them in the care of an Indian pilot named Stikas. Whitman was Determined For Oregon in 1843 to help these emigrants.

The journey from Fort Hall to Oregon was fraught with challenges, as the emigrants faced difficult terrain and uncertainty about the route ahead. Many young men left the group with pack trains. The road was rocky and rough, and the valleys were covered with sagebrush, which impeded the progress of the wagons.

On September 7th, the emigrants arrived at the Salmon Falls on Snake River, where they purchased dried and fresh salmon from the Snake Indians, trading one ball and one charge of powder for each fish. They observed the Indians’ skillful method of spearing salmon in the narrow channels of the rapids.

On September 14th, they passed the Boiling Spring, where the water was hot enough to cook an egg. On September 20th, they arrived at Fort Boise, Idaho, then managed by Mr. Payette. On September 21st, they re-crossed the Snake River by fording.

On September 24th, they reached Burnt River, a creek that ran through a narrow valley between two mountain ranges. The road up this stream was treacherous, as it was filled with timber that had not been cleared.

On September 27th, the emigrants encountered some rain, but the next morning they were treated to stunning views of snow-capped mountains and forests. They passed through beautiful valleys and camped on a branch of the Powder River, near a lone pine tree that served as a landmark.

On September 29th and 30th, they continued through rich valleys between snow-clad mountains. On October 1st, they entered the Grande Ronde Valley, a magnificent valley nestled among the Blue Mountains. In this valley, they purchased camas root from the Indians, which they found to be quite palatable.

On October 2nd, they ascended the mountain ridge at the Grande Ronde River and descended to a creek, where they camped. From October 3rd to 6th, they traversed the Blue Mountains, arriving at their foot on the 6th. They encountered a snowstorm on the mountain and had difficulty finding their cattle. At a nearby Indian village, they purchased corn, peas, and potatoes.

On October 10th, they arrived within three miles of Dr. Whitman’s mission, where they remained until the 14th. Some of the emigrants accused Dr. Whitman of charging exorbitant prices for wheat and potatoes, failing to recognize the higher costs he incurred for his supplies.

On October 16th, the emigrants reached Fort Walla Walla, Washington, then under the charge of Mr. McKinley. They had traveled 1,691 miles from the rendezvous between May 22nd and October 16th, a journey of 147 days with an average distance of eleven and a half miles per day.

Some of the emigrants left their wagons and cattle at Walla Walla and traveled down the Columbia River in boats, while others continued with their wagons to the Dalles, where they descended to the Cascades on rafts and then to Fort Vancouver in boats and canoes. Peter Hardeman Burnett was determined to reach his destination.

Burnett and William Beagle obtained a Hudson’s Bay Company boat at Walla Walla and hired an Indian pilot to navigate the Columbia River. They encountered dangerous rapids, where the pilot’s skill and Beagle’s steering were essential for their safety.

After reaching the Dalles, Burnett recognized the potential for a town to develop at that location, as it marked the head of safe steam navigation. He left his family there and proceeded to Fort Vancouver, arriving around November 7, 1843.

At Fort Vancouver, Burnett met Governor John C. Fremont, who was preparing to travel overland to California. The Hudson’s Bay Company provided Fremont with supplies, which were transported up the river in a boat and three Chinook canoes.

Burnett accompanied Fremont to the Dalles, and returned with his family to Fort Vancouver on November 26, 1843. He then selected a claim on the Tualatin Plains and began farming.

Burnett and his family remained in Oregon for five years, after which they moved to California to participate in the Gold Rush. Burnett ultimately found success in law and politics, serving as California’s first state governor.

Burnett’s account provides a valuable and detailed glimpse into the challenges and experiences of the pioneers who traveled the Oregon Trail in 1843. His narrative offers insights into the motivations, hardships, and human dynamics that shaped this pivotal chapter in American history. His determination and resilience are a testament to the spirit of the pioneers who helped to forge the American West.