Earl Dunraven and the Estes Park Land Grab

Windham Thomas Wyndham-Quinn, the 4th Earl of Dunraven and Mount-Earl, was a prominent figure in the 19th century, known for his travels, sporting pursuits, and, perhaps controversially, his ambitious endeavors in Estes Park, Colorado. While his presence undeniably left a mark on the area, his legacy is viewed through a mixed lens, with some admiring his vision and others criticizing his methods.

Born on February 12, 1841, to a distinguished Irish aristocratic family, Dunraven received a privileged education at Christ Church, Oxford. His early life included military service and a stint as a correspondent for the London newspaper, the Daily Telegraph, showcasing his diverse interests and capabilities. In 1869, he married Florence Kerr, and together they embarked on a honeymoon that included visits to New York and Virginia, marking the beginning of their shared life and family, which would eventually include four children.

Dunraven’s passion for hunting led him to explore various parts of the world in pursuit of wild game. Hearing tales of the abundant wildlife in the American West, he embarked on his first hunting expedition in the autumn of 1871. With the legendary Buffalo Bill Cody and Texas Jack Omohundro as his guides, he ventured along the North Platte River in Wyoming, seeking elk. Demonstrating his penchant for traveling in comfort, Dunraven brought along his personal physician, Dr. George Henry Kingsley, ensuring his well-being throughout the adventure.

In 1872, Dunraven returned to the American West, this time exploring Nebraska, Wyoming, and Colorado’s South Park. It was in Denver, amidst the city’s vibrant nightlife, that he encountered Theodore Whyte, a 26-year-old Englishman who had spent time as a trapper for the Hudson’s Bay Company and dabbled in Colorado’s mining industry. Whyte’s familiarity with Estes Park and its abundant wildlife piqued Dunraven’s interest. Whyte extolled the virtues of the area, painting a vivid picture of deer, elk, and bear roaming freely, making it an ideal location for hunting.

Intrigued, Dunraven and a group of friends followed Whyte to Estes Park in late December 1872. Despite the frigid temperatures, they arrived and sought lodging with Griff Evans, a fellow Englishman eager to cater to the visiting nobility. Over the next few days, Dunraven explored the area, hunting elk in Black Canyon, along the Fall River, and in the vicinity of Bear Lake, immersing himself in the natural beauty of Estes Park.

Dunraven’s fascination with the American West extended beyond hunting. In 1874, he traveled to Yellowstone, documenting his experiences in a book titled The Great Divide. This work offered insights into his hunting adventures, as well as observations on the region’s geology, Native American culture, and gold mining towns, demonstrating his keen eye for detail and intellectual curiosity.

Upon returning to Estes Park in 1874, Dunraven expressed his admiration for the area’s beauty and sporting opportunities. He described the air as "scented with the sweet-smelling sap of the pines," and noted the abundance of wildlife and the invigorating climate.

However, Dunraven’s ambitions extended beyond mere enjoyment of the area. Inspired by the prospect of creating a private game preserve for himself and his associates, he set his sights on acquiring a significant portion of Estes Park. By leveraging the provisions of the Homestead Act and pre-emption rights, which allowed settlers to purchase public lands, Dunraven aimed to secure 8,000 acres of strategically located land. These lands were chosen along stream courses radiating out from the Estes Park Valley so that, though he owned only 8,000 acres, in effect he controlled nearly 15,000 acres.

With the assistance of Theodore Whyte and several Denver-based bankers and lawyers, Dunraven initiated a plan to survey the land and exploit the Homestead Law. Local men were recruited to stake 160-acre claims throughout the park in exchange for payment. More than 35 men filed claims using this ploy. Dunraven’s "Estes Park Company, Ltd." (also known as the English Company) then purchased these parcels at a nominal price, estimated at five dollars per acre. Between 1874 and 1880, the Earl managed to purchase 8,200 acres of land. In addition, the Company controlled another 7,000 acres because of the lay of the land and the ownership of springs and streams.

Dunraven’s efforts were met with resistance from some local settlers, who viewed his land acquisition as an attempt to monopolize the area and exclude them from its resources. Accusations of land grabbing and questionable tactics were leveled against him, leading to legal challenges and investigations. One of the most gigantic land steals in the history of Colorado was said to be his work, as thirty-one claims were filed for his use of the land, and a grand jury was set to investigate his claims.

In July 1874, Denver newspapers reported that a sawmill would be built, Swiss cattle were to be introduced, ranching would be expanded, and a hunting lodge would be constructed in Dunraven Glade on the North Fork of the Big Thompson River. Theodore Whyte was chosen to serve as the Earl’s agent and manager in Colorado.

Griff Evans, with whom the Earl had stayed within 1872, was one of the first to sell out. Bitterness developed between those settlers who had no intention of selling and the powerful forces of the English Company. Reverend Elkanah Lamb, who had homesite just east of Longs Peak, loudly voiced his disgust at those who sold out. Many years later, the Reverend Lamb would say:

“Griff Evans, being of a good-natured genial turn of mind, liking other drinks than water and tempted by the shining and jingle of English gold, Dunraven very soon influenced him to relinquish his claim and all of his rights in the park for $900.”

Lamb also believed that the Earl’s land-grabbing was fraudulent and also said:

“Dunraven picked up men of the baser sort, irresponsible fellows not regarding oaths as of much importance when contrasted with gold.”

Those who cooperated with the Earl, according to Reverend Lamb,

“prepared to sell their souls for a mess of pottage at the dictation of a foreign lord.”

The conflict between Dunraven and the settlers escalated, leading to confrontations and violence. One notable incident involved James Nugent, also known as Rocky Mountain Jim, a trapper and cattle owner who controlled a key entrance to Estes Park. Nugent’s opposition to Dunraven’s plans led to a dispute with Griff Evans, culminating in a shooting on June 19, 1874. While the exact circumstances of the shooting remain debated, Nugent was critically injured and died three months later. Evans was arrested and charged with the shooting but the case was dismissed for lack of witnesses.

Despite the controversy and resistance, Dunraven pressed forward with his vision for Estes Park. In 1876, he commissioned the renowned artist Albert Bierstadt to paint a landscape of Estes Park and Longs Peak, which was later displayed in Dunraven Castle. Bierstadt was also consulted on the location of Dunraven’s hotel, which was constructed in 1877 and became known as "The English Hotel."

However, the ongoing disputes and legal challenges took their toll on Dunraven’s endeavors in Estes Park. In 1882, he made his last visit to the area, expressing frustration with the constant litigation and the difficulty of managing the enterprise from afar. In 1907, he sold his land to F.O. Stanley and B. D. Sanborn, who would later build the iconic Stanley Hotel.

Dunraven’s "English Hotel" burned to the ground in 1911, marking the end of an era in Estes Park’s history. Ironically, while Dunraven had advocated for the preservation of Yellowstone as a national park, he did not extend the same ideals to Estes Park, seeking to preserve it for his own exclusive use.

Despite the controversies surrounding his land acquisition, Dunraven’s legacy in Estes Park is complex and multifaceted. Mount Dunraven in Rocky Mountain National Park and Dunraven Pass in Yellowstone National Park bear his name, serving as enduring reminders of his presence in the region. The Albert Bierstadt painting of Estes Park is now held in the Denver Public Library’s art collection.

Earl Dunraven died in June 1926 at the age of 85.