Eureka Springs, Arkansas – Little Switzerland of the Ozarks
Nestled deep within the verdant folds of the Ozark Mountains in Northwest Arkansas lies Eureka Springs, a city not just rich in history, but practically defined by it. The entirety of Eureka Springs, Arkansas, has earned a coveted spot on the National Register of Historic Places, a testament to its remarkably preserved Victorian architecture and the captivating stories etched into its very foundations. Imagine a tapestry woven with steeply winding streets, staircases carved into the hillsides, and an array of meticulously restored Victorian buildings, cottages, and grand manors clinging to the mountainous terrain – this is Eureka Springs, a living museum where the past feels remarkably present.
Long before the ornate facades of Victorian architecture graced the landscape, the area surrounding what is now Eureka Springs, Arkansas, held a significant place in Native American lore. For centuries, indigenous peoples recognized the unique properties of its natural springs. A captivating Native American legend, passed down through generations, speaks of a Sioux princess afflicted with blindness. The tale recounts how, upon washing her eyes in the waters of Basin Spring, her sight was miraculously restored.
This remarkable event resonated throughout the region, and word of the spring’s healing powers spread rapidly. Soon, Native Americans from diverse tribes journeyed from distant lands to partake in the restorative waters. The site gradually evolved into a sacred gathering place, where tribal conflicts were forbidden, and only peaceful interactions were permitted. This decree was universally respected among all the Indian bands, solidifying the springs’ reputation as a sanctuary of peace and healing.
The arrival of European settlers marked a new chapter in the history of Eureka Springs, Arkansas. Dr. Alvah Jackson, drawn by the Native American legends of healing waters, became the first recorded white settler to discover the springs. In 1856, he brought his ailing son to the springs, seeking a cure for an eye ailment. During the tumultuous years of the Civil War, Dr. Jackson established what became known as "Dr. Jackson’s Cave Hospital," a refuge for the sick and wounded. Following the war, he capitalized on his knowledge of the springs, creating a successful business selling "Dr. Jackson’s Eye Water," further cementing the springs’ reputation for medicinal properties.
However, the "secrets" of the springs remained largely confined to the local population until 1879. Judge J.B. Saunders of Berryville, a friend and hunting companion of Dr. Jackson, sought relief from a debilitating skin disease characterized by severe inflammation. After visiting Basin Spring and utilizing its waters, the judge purportedly experienced a complete cure. Fueled by his personal experience, Judge Saunders leveraged his influence to promote the springs throughout Arkansas, effectively opening Pandora’s Box.
The news of the spring’s seemingly miraculous healing properties ignited a fervent interest across the region and beyond. The waters were touted as a remedy for a wide spectrum of ailments, including diabetes, rheumatism, women’s diseases, asthma, paralysis, and countless others. This widespread belief in the spring’s curative capabilities triggered an unprecedented influx of visitors, transforming the sleepy settlement into a bustling boomtown almost overnight. The city of Eureka Springs was officially founded on July 4, 1879, marking the formal establishment of a community centered around the purported healing waters.
The initial construction in Eureka Springs was characterized by rapid growth and rudimentary structures. Judge Saunders erected the first cabin, envisioning it as a summer retreat. O.D. Thornton followed suit, building a rough board shanty that served as both a residence and a general store. By the end of July, approximately twelve structures dotted the landscape around the springs, accompanied by a scattering of tents and wagons. The population swelled to an estimated 300 by mid-August, prompting the construction of additional businesses, including a second general store, a meat market, and a blacksmith shop. By the year’s end, the settlement’s population had exploded to around 10,000, supporting a diverse array of businesses, such as hotels, saloons, bathhouses, livery stables, groceries, and dry goods stores, all catering to the needs of the burgeoning community and the influx of health-seekers.
The rapid growth and development of Eureka Springs culminated in its declaration as a "City of the First Class" in 1881. Remarkably, it became the fourth largest city in Arkansas within a mere two years of its official founding. Unlike most cities, where higher elevations are typically considered prime real estate, the most desirable locations in Eureka Springs were those closest to the springs. The wealthy and influential members of the burgeoning city flocked to these areas, constructing their homes near the source of the healing waters.
The springs’ reputation also attracted the attention of numerous investors, eager to capitalize on the city’s potential. Former Arkansas governor Powell Clayton spearheaded the formation of the Eureka Springs Improvement Company, a group of enterprising individuals who sought to usher in an era of "gracious living" in Eureka Springs, an era that would last until the turn of the century.
One of the Improvement Company’s primary objectives was to establish a railroad connection to the burgeoning city. The nearest railroad terminal was located in Pierce City, Missouri, approximately 55 miles to the northeast. Travelers faced a grueling nine-hour stagecoach ride from Pierce City to reach Eureka Springs. Recognizing the need for improved transportation, the Improvement Company successfully lobbied for the extension of the railroad to Seligman, Missouri, just 18 miles away, in 1882. The Eureka Springs Railway was chartered that same year, and on February 1, 1883, the first train arrived, bringing with it not only a surge of visitors seeking the spring’s curative powers but also a wave of commercial opportunities.
Eureka Springs quickly established itself as a vital commercial hub for the surrounding region. However, the city’s rapid growth was marred by a devastating fire on November 3, 1883. The conflagration consumed approximately five acres, including a significant portion of the business district. In response, the Eureka Springs Improvement Company and many of the city’s residents embarked on a rebuilding effort, replacing the older frame structures with new brick-and-stone buildings. The Improvement Company also initiated several infrastructure improvements, including widening streets, installing streetlights, and establishing water and sewage systems, contributing to the overall development of the city.
In 1884, the Improvement Company partnered with the Frisco Railroad to construct the iconic Crescent Hotel. The Crescent Hotel, billed as America’s most luxurious resort hotel of its time, opened its doors on May 20, 1886, amid considerable fanfare. Notables from across the country attended the grand opening, which featured a gala ball, a full orchestra, and a banquet dinner for 400 guests.
The Crescent Hotel offered spacious, well-appointed rooms, a dining room capable of seating over 500 guests, and a variety of outdoor amenities, including a swimming pool, tennis courts, and croquet, all set within a beautifully landscaped environment featuring flower gardens, winding boardwalks, and gazebos. The hotel’s unparalleled luxury quickly attracted the nation’s elite.
Liveried footmen greeted guests arriving at the Frisco depot, transporting them to the hotel in style. Once there, guests could indulge in the healing waters of the spa, enjoy horseback riding on a stable of 100 horses, attend afternoon tea dances, and participate in elaborate evening parties accompanied by a full in-house orchestra.
The Crescent Hotel has undergone several ownership changes over the years, serving in various capacities and experiencing a tragic fire in the 1960s. However, the "Grand Lady of the Ozarks," as the hotel is affectionately known, has been fully restored to its original grandeur and continues to welcome travelers today.
As the turn of the century approached, Eureka Springs reached the zenith of its prosperity, after which the city began a gradual decline. The advent of modern medicine diminished the perceived efficacy of mineral springs, leading to a decline in tourism. The construction of the St. Louis and North Arkansas Railroad, connecting Eureka Springs with Harrison, Arkansas, in 1901, further diminished the town’s importance as a commercial center.
The last "important" building of Eureka Springs’ "golden days," the seven-story Basin Park Hotel, opened on July 1, 1905. The Basin Park Hotel, built against a mountainside, featured an unusual architectural design in which each of the seven floors functioned as a ground floor on the backside of the hotel. The Basin Park Hotel remains open today.
In 1911, the relocation of the railroad’s repair workshops to nearby Harrison dealt a significant blow to Eureka Springs, nearly spelling its demise. However, the city managed to survive, buoyed by the increasing affordability of automobiles. In the 1920s, the National Auto Trails were established, and U.S. Highway 62, stretching from Niagara Falls, New York, to El Paso, Texas, passed along the edge of Eureka Springs. The Ozark Trail spawned a new roadside culture, characterized by service stations, motor courts, diners, and tourist traps. While the Auto Trails era faded as interstates replaced the old routes in the 1970s, remnants of its vintage architecture can still be observed today.
The Great Depression dealt a severe blow to Eureka Springs, impacting its status as a vacation destination. During this period, several wooden buildings were dismantled for their materials. However, the enduring stone and brick buildings were spared demolition, their robust construction ensuring their preservation for future use.
Following the Depression, artists and writers began to relocate to the area, contributing to a cultural renaissance. The Works Progress Administration (WPA) constructed Lake Leatherwood, creating the world’s largest hand-cut stone dam.
After World War II, with the lifting of travel restrictions, tourism rebounded, leading to a small boom in Eureka Springs. Abandoned buildings were revitalized, housing boutiques and specialty shops, and artists and retirees established permanent residences. The Army Corps of Engineers’ work on Beaver Dam in 1960, coupled with the opening of the Pea Ridge National Military Park, further boosted tourism in northwest Arkansas.
After a lapse of half a century, Eureka Springs experienced a second "boom," marked by the proliferation of motels and service facilities, the conversion of abandoned buildings into boutiques and specialty shops, and an influx of artists and retirees.
In 1970, the entirety of Eureka Springs was designated as a Historic District and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Encompassing approximately two square miles, the district includes nearly 500 buildings that contribute to the city’s historical significance, most of which were constructed of native stone between 1890 and 1910. Eureka Springs was also recognized as one of America’s Twelve Distinctive Destinations in 2001 by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. In 2005, the National Park Service elevated Eureka Springs to National Significance on the National Register of Historic Places.
Today, this picturesque city, with a population of nearly 2,500, stands as one of the best-preserved 19th-century communities in the nation. Nestled within the Ozark Mountains and bordered by two scenic lakes, Eureka Springs offers a wealth of historic attractions and simple pleasures. Visitors can explore over 100 specialty boutiques, dine at 70 restaurants, and partake in a wide range of recreational activities.
The Great Passion Play, an outdoor drama depicting the final week of Jesus Christ’s life, is a major attraction. The site also features the Christ of the Ozarks, a 67-foot-tall statue, the Holy Land Tour, a tabernacle, a museum, and other attractions.
