Fort Buford, North Dakota
Nestled in the rugged landscape of northwestern North Dakota, near the confluence of the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers, lies the historic site of Fort Buford. This military outpost, established in 1866, played a pivotal role in the westward expansion of the United States and the complex relationship between the U.S. Army and the Native American tribes of the Great Plains. Today, the Fort Buford State Historic Site stands as a testament to this era, offering visitors a glimpse into the lives of the soldiers, civilians, and Native Americans who shaped its history.
The story of Fort Buford is one of ambition, conflict, and ultimately, transition. Built in the aftermath of the Civil War, the fort was strategically positioned to protect overland and river routes used by immigrants venturing westward. It also served as a base of operations for military campaigns against the Native American tribes who resisted the encroachment of settlers onto their ancestral lands. The fort’s history is inextricably linked to the expansion of the Northern Pacific Railroad and the discovery of gold in the Black Hills, events that further intensified tensions with the Sioux and other tribes.
Construction and Early Years
Under the command of Brevet Lieutenant Colonel William G. Rankin, construction of Fort Buford began in June 1866. The fort was named in honor of Major General John Buford, a Union hero of the Battle of Gettysburg. From its inception, the fort faced immediate challenges. The very night after construction began, Native Americans launched attacks, wounding a soldier. Attempts to steal cattle followed on the third day. Despite the persistent raids throughout the summer and fall, the soldiers persevered. By the end of November, the fort consisted of log and adobe buildings enclosed by a 360-foot-square stockade.
Initially, the primary purpose of Fort Buford was to safeguard the overland and river routes vital for westward-bound immigrants. However, the soldiers quickly found themselves preoccupied with defending the fort itself. The Sioux, unhappy with the increasing presence of the U.S. military, launched frequent attacks. In December 1866, they targeted a work party at the sawmill, and raids continued throughout the winter.
Expansion and Escalating Conflict
The constant threat of attack prompted the deployment of four additional companies to Fort Buford in the spring of 1867. This influx of troops necessitated an expansion of the post. The original stockade was partially dismantled and enlarged, expanding its dimensions to 999 feet by 600 feet. However, the handmade adobe bricks used in the buildings proved to be inadequate, deteriorating rapidly under the harsh conditions. This deterioration, combined with the ongoing Indian attacks, forced the soldiers to undertake another rebuilding effort just three years later. Further expansion occurred in 1871-72, with the goal of accommodating six companies of soldiers.
During this period, the Northern Pacific Railroad resumed its survey activities west of the Missouri River, and the Yellowstone expeditions of 1871-1873 took place. These actions directly violated the Treaty of 1868 with the Sioux, further fueling their resentment. Attacks by the Sioux intensified, particularly after the Black Hills expedition of 1874, which triggered a massive influx of prospectors into Sioux territory. As the situation worsened, more troops were deployed to the area, and Fort Buford became a crucial supply hub for military campaigns.
The Great Sioux War and Sitting Bull’s Surrender
By the end of 1875, tensions had reached a breaking point. The U.S. government decided to forcibly relocate the Native Americans onto reservations. This decision ignited the Great Sioux War of 1876-1879, a conflict marked by significant battles, including the infamous Battle of the Little Bighorn, where Lieutenant Colonel George Armstrong Custer and his command were annihilated. In the aftermath of the Little Bighorn, Chief Sitting Bull led his followers into Canada to escape U.S. military pursuit. However, facing dwindling resources and increasing pressure, Sitting Bull was forced to return to the United States. On July 20, 1881, he surrendered at Fort Buford, marking a significant turning point in the history of the Sioux Wars.
The surrender of Sitting Bull at Fort Buford symbolized the end of an era. With the major conflicts with the Native American tribes resolved, the fort’s strategic importance diminished.
Abandonment and Preservation
After the Indian Wars concluded, Fort Buford gradually lost its significance and began to deteriorate. On October 1, 1895, the fort was officially abandoned by the U.S. Army. For a time, the buildings stood empty, exposed to the elements and the passage of time. Fortunately, the historical value of the site was recognized, and efforts were made to preserve what remained.
Today, the Fort Buford State Historic Site, managed by the North Dakota State Historical Society, safeguards the remnants of this once-vital military post. Three original buildings still stand: the stone powder magazine, the post cemetery site, and a large officers’ quarters building, which now houses a museum. The museum features exhibits that tell the story of Fort Buford, its inhabitants, and the events that shaped its history. Artifacts, photographs, and documents offer insights into the daily lives of the soldiers, the challenges they faced, and the complex relationships they had with the Native American tribes.
Southwest of the museum lies the fort cemetery. Although the remains of the soldiers were relocated to the national cemetery at the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument in Montana after the fort’s abandonment, reconstructed wooden headboards mark the graves where they were once interred. Some headstones still mark the burial sites of civilians who lived and died at the fort.
Visiting Fort Buford Today
A visit to Fort Buford State Historic Site provides a unique opportunity to step back in time and experience the atmosphere of a 19th-century frontier military post. Walking through the grounds, visitors can imagine the bustling activity that once filled the fort, the drills of the soldiers, and the comings and goings of traders, scouts, and Native American delegations.
The museum is open daily during the summer months and by appointment only during the rest of the year. Knowledgeable staff are on hand to answer questions and provide guided tours of the site. Special events, such as historical reenactments and living history demonstrations, are held throughout the year, bringing the past to life for visitors of all ages.
Fort Buford State Historic Site stands as a tangible link to a pivotal period in American history. It is a place where the stories of soldiers, civilians, and Native Americans converge, offering a nuanced and compelling perspective on the challenges and triumphs of westward expansion. By preserving this important site, the North Dakota State Historical Society ensures that the legacy of Fort Buford will continue to educate and inspire future generations.
Fort Buford‘s legacy lives on, a testament to a complex and transformative era in American history.