Frontier Recipes – The ‘Real’ Old Stuff From the Old West

The American West, a land of vast landscapes, rugged individuals, and a spirit of self-reliance, also possessed a unique culinary landscape shaped by necessity and ingenuity. The meals of cowboys, pioneers, and settlers were far from the elaborate dishes of the East Coast. Instead, they relied on readily available ingredients, simple cooking methods, and a hearty appetite forged by hard labor. This article delves into the "real" old stuff, the frontier recipes that sustained life on the edge of civilization, offering a glimpse into the tastes and textures of a bygone era.

The culinary scene of the Old West was defined by practicality. Ingredients were dictated by what could be hunted, gathered, or easily transported. Preservation techniques were paramount, as refrigeration was nonexistent. The chuckwagon, a mobile kitchen accompanying cattle drives, became a symbol of this resourcefulness, its cook a vital figure whose skills could make or break a journey. These cooks were masters of improvisation, transforming basic staples into nourishing meals that fueled the expansion of a nation.

"The reason so many Texas cowboys went north and stayed there was because they were tired of cornbread and sowbelly." This quote, attributed to Teddy Blue, speaks volumes about the commonality, and perhaps the monotony, of the cowboy diet. Cornbread, made from readily available cornmeal, and sowbelly, salted pork belly, were indeed staples. However, the frontier recipes extended beyond these basic provisions, showcasing a remarkable ability to create variety from limited resources.

The life of a cowboy was a strenuous one, requiring a substantial amount of energy. Meals were therefore designed to be filling and calorie-rich. Meats, often preserved through salting, smoking, or drying, played a central role. Beans, another easily stored and transported food, provided essential protein and fiber. Coffee, often brewed strong and black, was a constant companion, offering a much-needed boost during long days in the saddle. These frontier recipes, while simple, were the bedrock of survival.

The following recipes, gleaned from historical accounts and passed-down traditions, offer a taste of the authentic Old West. They are not gourmet creations, but rather honest representations of the food that sustained those who dared to carve a life out of the wilderness. Be prepared for rustic flavors, straightforward preparation, and a glimpse into the culinary challenges faced by those who shaped the American West. These frontier recipes are more than just meals; they are a tangible connection to a pivotal chapter in American history.

The ingenuity of these cooks also meant creating new ways of utilizing the available ingredients and meats.

Rabbit Stew

A hearty and flavorful stew made with readily available rabbit, this dish was a common sight on the frontier table.

• Ingredients: Rabbit (cut into pieces), flour, salt, pepper, butter, onion, carrot, potatoes, herbs (such as thyme or rosemary).

• Instructions: Mix flour and seasonings together. Coat the rabbit pieces with the mixture. Melt the butter and fry the rabbit pieces until browned. Put the pieces in a large pan and add the onion, carrot, and potatoes. Cover with water and season with salt, pepper, and herbs. Cover and cook for three hours.

Raccoon Fricassee

This recipe highlights the resourcefulness of frontier cooks, utilizing game meat that might be overlooked today.

Ingredients: Raccoon, salt, baking soda, flour, pepper, fat, onion, celery, carrots, potatoes, water.

Instructions: Skin the raccoon, remove the musk glands and dress out the carcass. Soak in salt water overnight to draw out the blood. Baking soda can be added to the water to remove any gamey smell. Cut raccoon into serving pieces and dredge in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Brown in hot fat. Add remaining ingredients. Cover and simmer for 2 hours or until tender. Thicken the juice with flour and water mixture for gravy. Serve hot with cornbread.

Beef Jerky

A crucial form of preserved meat, beef jerky provided sustenance on long journeys and during times when fresh meat was scarce.

• Ingredients: Steak (trimmed of fat), salt, seasoning salt, pepper.

• Instructions: Trim fat and slice steak with the grain into l/4- to l/2-inch (1 cm) strips. Lightly salt strips or soak them overnight in a solution of water and two tablespoons salt. Arrange strips on skewers, season with seasoning salt and pepper and hang in a smoker or lay them on oven racks in an oven set to its lowest temperature (175 to 200F), with the door slightly ajar to permit moisture to escape. (If you use an oven, place a shallow pan under the meat to catch drippings.) Drying time varies. In an oven, 8 to 10 hours is usually sufficient. Dried meat should be tough and leathery, not quite brittle. Store in plastic or cloth bags in a cool, dry place.

Pemmican

A highly concentrated and portable food, pemmican was a staple for Native Americans and early explorers.

• Ingredients: Jerky, animal fat, dried berries (optional).

• Instructions: Pound jerky to break up fibers. In a skillet, melt fat, making sure it does not boil or smoke. Stir pounded jerky into fat, along with dried berries, if desired. Let fat cool and cut pemmican into candy-bar-sized chunks. Store in plastic, cloth, or rawhide bags in a cool, dry place.

Planked Whitefish

This recipe showcases a Native American cooking technique adapted by settlers.

• Ingredients: Whitefish, salt, pepper, bacon.

Instructions: Season whitefish with salt and pepper. Heat oak plank near the fire. Oil the fish and put it in the center of the board. Cover the exposed part of the board with coarse salt to keep it from burning. Spread bacon on top of the fish. Then prop the board in front of the fire and bake for about 45 minutes.

Pease Porridge

A simple yet nourishing dish made from split peas, this porridge was a common meal, especially during colder months.

• Ingredients: Split peas, butter, eggs, salt, pepper.

• Instructions: Soak and cook split peas, drain liquid, and puree peas. Mash peas into a smooth puree. Add butter, eggs, salt, and pepper. Pour into a greased bowl and cover tightly so it won’t dry out. Steam for 1 hour. Place the bowl on a trivet in a Dutch oven. Place 2 inches of water in the bottom of the Dutch oven, cover tightly, and bake for 20 minutes at 350F. Leftovers can be sliced and fried in butter. Traditionally served with pork or sausage.

Skirlie

A Scottish dish adapted for the frontier, skirlie is a savory oatmeal dish cooked with bacon and onions.

• Ingredients: Bacon, onion, oatmeal.

• Instructions: Chop bacon into 1-inch chunks and fry. When grease coats the pan, add sliced onion. Cook until transparent. Add oatmeal to absorb the fat, keeping the mixture thick. Stir for 7-10 minutes till cooked. Serve with mincemeat roasted poultry or as a main dish when the larder is bare.

Mouse Pie

A rather unusual recipe, reflecting the extreme resourcefulness that could be demanded on the frontier.

Ingredients: Field mice, macaroni, onion, tomatoes, cracker crumbs, salt, pepper.

Instructions: Boil macaroni for 10 minutes. While cooking, fry the field mice long enough to fry out some excess fat. Grease a casserole with some fat and put a layer of macaroni on it. Add onions, then tomatoes, salt, and pepper well. Add field mice and cover with remaining macaroni. Sprinkle the top with cracker crumbs. Bake at 375 degrees for about 20 minutes or until mice are well done.

Buffalo Stew

Using the most available big game meat of the time, this stew represents a simple and filling option.

Ingredients: Buffalo meat, brown gravy, salt, pepper.

Instructions: Cut buffalo into bite-size pieces. Salt and pepper. Cover all with brown gravy. Cook over kerosene fire for about four weeks at 465 degrees. This will serve 3800 people. If more are expected, two rabbits may be added. But do this only in an emergency. Most people do not like hare in their stew.

Roast Beaver

A recipe demonstrating the utilization of all available resources, even those that required significant preparation.

Ingredients: Beaver meat, vinegar, salt pork, onion, celery, carrots, water, flour.

Instructions: Beaver meat is similar to muskrat. The flesh is dark, tender, and soft. This animal has scent glands that are found between the front forelegs, under the thighs, and along the spine in the small of the back. They should be removed immediately after the skin has been removed, taking great care not to cut into them. Beaver fat has a strong flavor and odor and should be cut away completely before cooking. Beaver meat was often soaked in salted water before cooking to draw out some of the strong flavor. Another method was to cover it with boiling water, to which 1 teaspoon of baking soda has been added. Then drain and cook in the usual way. Take care to remove every speck of fat on the surface of the flesh. Soak the meat in a vinegar bath overnight. 1/4 cup of vinegar with enough water to cover the meat. Wash the meat in cold clear water. Place in a roaster and cut several slits into the lean meat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put 4 strips of salt pork over the slits, and dust with a little flour. Put 1/4 cup water in the pan and roast with the lid on until half done. Add more water if needed to keep the pan from going dry. Cut into small pieces, onion, celery, and carrots, to fill a cup and sprinkle over the meat. Finish roasting with the lid off. The meat should be falling off the bones. Add water and flour to the juices to make a gravy.

Pan Hoss

A method of utilizing a hog’s head that speaks to the need for every part of an animal to be used.

Ingredients: Hog’s head, onions, vinegar, salt, pepper.

Instructions: Simmer the first five ingredients together until meat falls from the bones. Grind and chop meat fine. Neck bones (chicken, turkey, or lamb) may be substituted if hog’s head is not available. Strain liquid from meat. Boil down to reduce the amount or add water to increase to 4 cups. To boil the liquid, add 1 cup cornmeal, adding more if necessary to make the mush thick. Add one teaspoon of salt. Boil over heat 3-5 minutes. Add ground meat and place over boiling water for 10-15 minutes. At this time, additional seasoning may be added if necessary.

Sonofabitch Stew

A uniquely named and hearty stew made from the offal of a young calf.

Ingredients: Beef heart, liver, kidneys, sweetbreads, marrow gut, brains, onion, lard, flour, salt, pepper.

Instructions: Cube the top five meats. Add them to a hot Dutch oven with a small amount of lard melted in the bottom. Brown the meats. Slice the marrow gut and add it to the pot. The brains are cooked in a separate pan, and a few tablespoons of flour are added to thicken them. They are then added to the pot. Add a diced onion, salt, and pepper. Cover in water and allow to cook for 304 hours (yes, we mean 304 – not a misprint.) Continue to stir, and do not allow it to stick.

Fried Salt Pork

A simple and common dish, salt pork provided a salty and fatty source of sustenance.

• Ingredients: Salt pork, flour (or cornmeal batter).

• Instructions: Soak the slabs of pork in water overnight, or boil and pour off the water. Dredge in flour and fry in a greased skillet until golden brown. Instead of flour, you can dip it in a thick batter of cornmeal, flour, and water.

Bannock or Frying Pan Bread

A simple unleavened bread cooked in a skillet, bannock was a staple for trappers and explorers.

• Ingredients: Flour, baking powder, salt, cold water.

• Instructions: Thoroughly mix dry ingredients. Add just enough cold water to make a stiff dough. Working dough as little as possible, form a one-inch thick cake. Lay the cake on a greased, pre-warmed skillet. Brown the bottom of the cake, lightly and flip or turn with a spatula to brown the other side. When both sides are lightly browned, prop the skillet in front of the fire and let it bake. Test for doneness by thumping the cake with a spoon handle or stick. A hollow ringing sound indicates doneness. An alternative test is to jab the cake with a twig or matchstick. The cake is done if the twig comes out clean (no clinging dough).

Hoecakes or Johnnycakes

A cornmeal pancake cooked on a griddle, hoecakes were a quick and easy source of carbohydrates.

• Ingredients: Cornmeal, flour (optional), salt, cold water.

• Instructions: Combine the dry ingredients and mix well. The flour is optional, but it will improve the cake’s texture. Add just enough cold water to make a stiff batter. Drop large spoonfuls of batter onto a lightly greased skillet and cook slowly.

Ash Cakes

A simple bread cooked directly on the coals of a fire.

Ingredients: Flour, salt, cold water.

Instructions: Mix dry ingredients. Add enough cold water to make a firm dough. Form the dough into thin cakes. Clear coals from an area of the campfire and lay the cakes on the hot earth. Rake coals and ash over the cakes and let them bake for about five minutes. Test for doneness by thumping the cake with a spoon handle or stick. A hollow ringing sound indicates doneness.

Hardtack

A durable and long-lasting biscuit, hardtack was a crucial provision for soldiers and travelers.

• Ingredients: Flour, water.

• Instructions: Combine the flour and water. Knead until smooth. Sprinkle some flour on a smooth surface and roll the dough flat until it is 1/4 inch thick. Cut biscuits out with a can or a glass, making each biscuit about 3-4 inches in diameter. Poke holes into each biscuit with a fork. Place on a floured cookie sheet. It should come out hard and dry. Bake at 400 F for 35-45 minutes.

Indian Meal Pudding

A sweet and comforting dessert made from cornmeal and molasses.

• Ingredients: Butter, boiling water, milk, corn meal, salt, molasses.

• Instructions: Rub a tablespoonful of butter around the bottom and sides of a smooth iron kettle; when melted, add half a cup of boiling water. This will prevent the milk from burning. Add one quart of milk. Let it boil up and almost over the kettle; then sift in one pint of fine yellow granulated corn meal, sifting with the left hand and holding the meal high so that every grain may be thoroughly scalded. Stir constantly; add half a teaspoonful of salt, and set away till cold. Then add half a pint of molasses and one quart of cold milk. Put into a well-buttered deep pudding dish, cover with a plate, and bake slowly for ten or twelve hours. Let it remain overnight, and serve it for a breakfast.

Fried Camp Apples

A simple and satisfying dessert made from readily available apples.

• Ingredients: Apples, lard or drippings, sugar, cinnamon.

• Instructions: Slice the apples, peel core and all, against the core, about ¼ inch thick. Heat a thin layer of lard or dripping in a heavy skillet until apples sizzle in the pan. Add the apples in a single layer, turning frequently until golden brown. Serve hot, sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon.

Ranch Pickles

A simple method of preserving cucumbers using salt and dill.

• Ingredients: Cucumbers, salt, dill, boiling water.

• Instructions: Fill a large jar (about one gallon) with small to medium cucumbers. Add two tablespoons of salt and a large bunch of dill. Fill the jar with boiling water, put the lid on, and set it in the sun for about two weeks.

These frontier recipes are a testament to the resilience and adaptability of those who ventured into the American West. They offer a unique perspective on a time when food was not just sustenance, but a connection to the land and a symbol of survival. While some of these dishes might seem unusual or unappetizing by modern standards, they represent a vital part of our culinary heritage, reminding us of the challenges and triumphs of those who shaped the West.